Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli photo Indigo Perfumery
As wonderful and artistically profound as many aromachemicals are, the endless array of synthetics that seem to underlie so much modern perfumery can create a sort of olfactory blur where everything starts to smell the same. Smelling the fragrances of real things, the lovely idiosyncrasies that only nature creates, can feel like finding a lush oasis in endless sand. Grasse-based Marie Jeanne, a brand that grew out of five generations of Robertet perfumers, offers such a respite.
photos courtesy of Marie Jeanne Grasse and collage by Michelyn
Marie Jeanne promotes the use of natural, cruelty-free natural essences in all its products. Working with Robertet perfumers, Marie Jeanne founder George Maubert – scion of a family that has been very influential in the perfume industry since 1850 – focuses on creating stripped-down, elegant compositions that emphasize the native variety of their ingredients.
Jasmine Grandiflorum courtesy of Marie Jeanne
Jasmin Patchouli, the newest addition to the line, fits harmoniously into this ethos. With two different jasmines, grandiflorum from Grasse and an Egyptian jasmine, Jasmin Patchouli offsets the flower’s luxuriant sweetness by a perfectly pitched loamy, woodsy patchouli, augmented by sprightly greenery. It opens with an unexpected, quirky tartness – not citric, but more like stewed rhubarb with some indefinable dark berry mixed in. Stalky green notes mix in, and the effect is weirdly delightful, like finding yourself in a Lewis Carroll garden. The jasmine starts to open out, taking its time. The spicy, olivine smell of jasmine grandiflorum takes over, spreading its voluminous white skirts over the greenery. Its fragrance seems to suspend; I get all of its creamy, nutmeg-y aspects at the same time as its sloe-lidded sensuality. But in time, its sister arrives. The fresher Egyptian jasmine stays out of the way of her more opulent sibling for some time, but when she does arrive, she brings the fragrance of springtime with her, all girlish sweetness and green buds.
Patchouli, photo courtesy of Marie Jeanne Grasse
It is at this point I notice the patchouli the most. It brings a woodier aroma than usual, and less of its typical bitter chocolate and dried leaf smells. But, But the real scene stealer is a plump fig note right at the perfume’s heart, half dried drupe, half green and purple fruit. After the jasmines have settled in, Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli becomes more full-bodied, with a distinct vinous note not unlike port from that changeable fig. Towards the dry-down, perhaps 45 minutes later, there’s a whiff of supple leather joining ripe fruit and the spiced, luscious jasmine and some fluffy, mallow-y ambrette.
Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli offers a chance to experience a lovely, multifaceted jasmine bouquet without drowning in indoles or the flower’s sometime narcotic sweetness. Grounded by bark-like patchouli and lent a sense of humour by that bacchanalian fig, this jasmine greets you with a smile and invites you to visit the gardens. A few sprays of Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli makes it feel that spring is here at last and good things are just around the next corner.
Notes: Green notes, fig leaf, jasmine grandiflorum (Grasse), jasmine (Egypt), ambrette seed (Peru), patchouli (Indonesia)
Disclaimer: Sample of Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery. My opinions are my own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli, photo courtesy of Marie Jeanne
Thanks to the generosity of Maison Duquesne, the US distributor of Marie Jeanne, we have a 100 ml bottle of Marie Jeanne Jasmin Patchouli for one registered reader in the U.SA ONLY. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Jasmin Patchouli based on Lauryn’s review. Draw closes 3/11/2021.
Update: The perfumer is Sidonie Lancesseur
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