ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces: Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite (Isabelle Doyen) 2017 + International Women’s Day Draw

Top L-Naomi Goodsir Accesories (Michelyn),  photo of Naomi Goodsir’s Bakelite Jewelry on her finger and wrist (Michelyn), Bottom: Isabelle Doyen (Michelyn) and Nuit de Bakélite (photo Ermano)

 Imagine… a hotel suite where all furniture and lighting was wrapped in white linen and only green tendrils of vines cut through the stark drapery. I remember entering this room of the Principe di Savoia Hotel in Milan to meet Australian milliner Naomi Goodsir together with Co-Creative Director Renaud Coutaudier and Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen. I opened the door in anticipation of any hint of the new debut fragrance from Naomi Goodsir… Nuit de Bakélite.

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite debuted in 2017

Insomnia – the installation at Principe di Savoia in Milan where  Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite debuted ©Ermano Picco

I knew immediately that this perfume was unlike any other I had smelled; it was fiercely green and earthy, opaque white petals caressed my nostrils like a suede leather glove. Michelyn was with me and we immediately looked into each other eyes in awe. You can’t hide when you encounter a fragrance masterpiece. There was a ferociousness to the tuberose absolute that had hints of latex and sap embodying so well the resin-like quality of Bakelite.

Isabelle Doyen and Naomi Goodsir

 Naomi Goodsir and Isabelle Doyen ©Naomi Goodsir

Naomi Goodsir collects Bakelite jewelry which was the starting point for this avant-garde vision of tuberose stems tangling on latex, breaking, and letting their venomous sap leak all over. Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite was almost four years in the making. Isabelle Doyen brilliantly translated this imagery and took the narcotic Queen of white flowers to an unprecedented and unexplored territory.  All at once it was an aromatic green chypre, a muted floral crossed with supple suede that makes Nuit de Bakélite a game-changer, and a modern masterpiece.

Insomnia Drawings by Louise Bourgeois

I still have in my archives, the press release for Nuit de Bakélite which I loved. The cover is a rough white cardboard featuring one of the Insomnia Drawings from Louise Bourgeois, a drawing green circle which expresses the obsessive greenery of this fragrance. Wearing Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite akin to having not slept and after a night of insomnia,  you are so tired, yet your senses are heightened. As in a surreal Franz Kafka novel, you suddenly turn into a feverish bug digging and burrowing into fleshy petals to get to the core of the tuberose, intoxicated by the indoles. The more you run up and down along the green stems, the more vegetal the fragrance becomes with the promise of tuberose even more than the tuberose itself. Isabelle Doyen masterfully captures this vegetal crispness which is pure magic.

Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir

 Ermano’s bottle of Nuit de Bakélite ©Ermano Picco

Echoing the green topnote of tuberose absolute, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite decomposes its multiple facets– from the insolent herbalcy of galbanum to the asparagus-like earthiness of isobutyl quinoleine (IBQ), from the silver bitterness of artemisia to the peppery soapiness of angelica root, not to mention the cucumber-tinged violet leaves absolute infusing top to bottom a freshly mown hay accord. Isabelle Doyen visualized in her mind Alberto Giacometti’s sculpture Fil Tendu (1932) while composing this vegetal tension as she confessed to Olivier Pierre David in a recent interview for Nez.

Fil tendu by Alberto Giacometti inspired Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite

Fil tendu by Alberto Giacometti (1932) via Kunsthaus Zürich

Nuit de Bakélite, like the great classic perfumes, plays with innovative proportions and materials. As an experienced fragrance collector and historian, I sense the violet-tinged opaque leather of Balmain’s Jolie Madame, here updated thanks to pulpy Karo Karounde absolute which is native to West Africa and smells of jasmine and violets with hints of chocolate and exotic fruits.  Isabelle Doyen used it as link between tuberose and leather. The absolute extracted from the flower is incredible, a fruity-floral chypre perfume on its own.

What is Karo-karounde

 Karo-karounde illustration by Matilda Smith (1894), Royal Botanic Kew Gardens

The bitterness of artemisia married to the rough edges of IBQ and the savory evernyl (a synthetic molecule used to render oakmoss absolute) conjures the ghosts of Robert Piguet’s Bandit, Germaine Cellier’s masterpiece, Guerlain Vent Vert and the monumental Chanel No. 19. It is also a wink to Naomi Goodsir’s personal style of wearing shirts, ties and bowler hats, impressive jewels, heels and skirts.

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite

Nuit de Bakélite drawing ©Naomi Goodsir

Merging heritage and innovation, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite finds its own voice among the modern tuberoses as a unique leathery floral, keeping away from other great tuberoses from the last decades: not camphorous (like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle), nor fruity (like the reference Piguet’s Fracas) or metallic (like Malle’s Carnal Flower). This again and again makes it a Modern Masterpiece that’s instantly gained international recognition and already become a classic of the 21stcentury.

Notes for Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite include angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, guaiac wood, everlasting flower, ylang- ylang, and woods

This review is based on a personal bottle of Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite. My opinions are my own.

–Ermano Picco, Editor with Contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief

Michelyn Camen of Cafleurebon with perfumer Isabelle Doyen

Isabelle Doyen and Michelyn Camen/ 2017

Post Script: March 8th is International Women’s Day and it is with great pleasure that we name Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite a CaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece, one of the best fragrances of the past decade (our opinions). Chapeau to Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and Naomi Goodsir. Special acknowledgment to Naomi Goodsir’s partner in fragrance and Co-Creative Director Renaud Coutaudier  – Ermano and Michelyn

Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite perfume

photo Naomi Goodsir

Thanks to the incredible generosity of our friends at Naomi Goodsir, we have a  50 ml bottle for draw to one registered reader in the U.S., UK,  and Europe. Please register here or your comment will not count. Pleased tell us  what you thought of Ermano’s choice of Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakelite as a modern masterpiece, what interest you most and where you live. Draw close 3/10/21

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64 comments

  • Carboytony826 says:

    Ermano, what an absolutely fantastic review of what I agree is one of the best fragrances of the past decade. You vividly describe this in all of it’s glory and I enjoy seeing your comparing and contrasting with other classic fragrances. The insomnia-induced burrowing is spot on, and it is just such a stunning work.

    I absolutely agree this is a Modern Masterpiece, and must say that no matter the perfumer behind the fragrance, all the perfumes from the House of Goodsir are amazing. Bois d’Ascèse is one of my signature scents.

    Thank you Mme. DOYEN for this masterpiece and thank you to both Ms. Goodsir and M. Coutaudier for bringing this idea to life via Isabelle.

    I’m in the USA

  • Dami C says:

    This article is a wonderful tribute to two women who pushed the boundaries and together created a modern masterpiece, a fragrance of high innovation and caliber nobody had thought of before. I enjoyed reading how this leathery, green game-changing beauty is reminiscent of Germaine Cellier Bandit and different from any other famous tuberose fragrances. I am in the USA.

  • drjedi says:

    Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite being named as one of the best fragrances of the past decade – that’s quite a recognition in the crowded fragrance market. I liked Ermano’s description where he describes Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite with the feeling of having one’s senses heightened after a night of insomnia, and then the crazy search for olfactory notes as in a Frank Kafka novel – “As in a surreal Franz Kafka novel, you suddenly turn into a feverish bug digging and burrowing into fleshy petals to get to the core of the tuberose, intoxicated by the indoles. The more you run up and down along the green stems, the more vegetal the fragrance becomes with the promise of tuberose even more than the tuberose itself.” The listed notes (angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, guaiac wood, everlasting flower, ylang- ylang, and woods) are not the kind that make your eyes glaze over, because you have seen them countless times. This fragrance definitely seems different and intriguing. I hope to try it some day. Thanks for the review and draw. From USA.

  • glowquest_ says:

    I loved reading about this masterpiece! It sounds like an amazing fragrance adventure, and now I can’t stop picturing myself digging deep into the stem of tuberose being small enough to really get in there! Art inspiring art, would love to explore this scent! Thank you for such a wonderful review! Happy Women’s Day!
    USA

  • KMBfragrance says:

    What an intriguing review! I remember gazing down starry-eyed at Bakelite jewelry in antique stores when I was a kid, fascinated by the waxy, not-natural and not-plastic texture of the material. I have yet to experience Nuit de Bakelite, but I’d love the opportunity. A leathery floral, at once vintage inspired and completely original sounds fantastic. I live in the USA. I also liked the modern masterpieces Facebook site.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Its difficult to answer the question poised as I have never smelled Nuit de Bakelite. The review certainly makes me want to sample it as it sounds incredibly impressive. I’d be very interested to see just how the tuberose element is handled. Many thanks to Ermano for his detailed review and many thanks to Naomi Goodsir for making this draw possible. I’m in the USA

  • Brian says:

    I hadn’t heard of this fragrance until I read Ermano’s review of it. One of my favorite styles of fragrances is the chypre, and this fragrance is not only a chypre but it is being considered a “Modern Masterpiece” by CaFleureBon; I definitely feel like I need to try this fragrance. I appreciated certain aspects of how Ermano described this fragrance and I appreciated learning about certain perfume ingredients like, e.g. Evernyl. I hope that I win this giveaway draw; I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • Trinity33 says:

    Wow! what a great description of the innovative nature of the fragrance. I don’t automatically think green when I think of a tuberose based scent, but the leather, galbanum, artemisia give it a unique earthy vibe. I can see why Ermano considers it a modern masterpiece. I’ve never heard of Karo Karounde absolute before but it sounds delightful and a great note I would like to seek out. My mother used to collect Bakelite, so the name Nuit de Bakelite conjures up great memories. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    I am not familiar enough with fragrant masterpieces to say whether I think this is one, but since the current understanding of “masterpiece” is a work of outstanding artistry, skill, or workmanship, then I understand Ermano’s choice of this as such.

    And that takes me into what interests me most – the skill and premium quality workmanship put into this fragrance is stated so well in this review. For example, a point of skill in how she manipulates the notes, showing a very detailed knowledge of the note, and also what she wants to achieve: “Echoing the green topnote of tuberose absolute, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite DECOMPOSES (breaks down into component elements or simpler constituents) its multiple facets– from the insolent herbalcy of galbanum to the asparagus-like earthiness of isobutyl quinoleine (IBQ), from the silver bitterness of artemisia to the peppery soapiness of angelica root, not to mention the cucumber-tinged violet leaves absolute infusing top to bottom a freshly mown hay accord.” And another point of the refined workmanship is how “pulpy Karo Karounde absolute which is native to West Africa and smells of jasmine and violets with hints of chocolate and exotic fruits” was used as “a link between tuberose and leather. The absolute extracted from the flower is incredible, a fruity-floral chypre perfume on its own.”

    So, I think that its uniqueness, along with the deft skill and highly refined workmanship qualifies this as something that can be considered a modern-day masterpiece.

    I live in Waldorf, Maryland, USA

  • rphawks says:

    Such a… strange? concept (in a good way). But fascinating nonetheless. The description is fitting of a modern masterpiece. I love green smells, and this one seems complex and sophisticated beyond measure. I’m in the USA.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I would have loved to seen the look between Ermano and Michelyn when they smelled this masterpiece. I sure wish the house would release a new fragrance, it’s been a long time…..but since this Nuit de Bakelite took 4 years, I can be patient if they release something this good again. I actually tested the last of my Cuir Velours sample last night and decided I can’t live without a bottle. I love that all her scents are long lasting. Thanks for the chance. USA.

  • DuftHochZwei says:

    The promise of tuberose, I can follow that. Your review combines technical details along with great imaginery, which really gives us the whole picture. – The two of us are no floral nor chypre lovers, but Nuit de Bakélite equally fascinates us and we keep on smelling it when there is an opportunity. So we would love to win this bottle to Germany, thank you for this draw!

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Nuit de Bakélite, like the great classic perfumes, plays with innovative proportions and materials. As an experienced fragrance collector and historian, I sense the violet-tinged opaque leather of Balmain’s Jolie Madame, here updated thanks to pulpy Karo Karounde absolute which is native to West Africa and smells of jasmine and violets with hints of chocolate and exotic fruits. Isabelle Doyen used it as link between tuberose and leather. The absolute extracted from the flower is incredible, a fruity-floral chypre perfume on its own. A beautiful description by Ermano has got me curious about the note of karo karounde in particular. A house that I am not familiar with but I am intrigued by nonetheless. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Merging heritage and innovation, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite finds its own voice among the modern tuberoses as a unique leathery floral, keeping away from other great tuberoses from the last decades: not camphorous (like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle), nor fruity (like the reference Piguet’s Fracas) or metallic (like Malle’s Carnal Flower). This again and again makes it a Modern Masterpiece that’s instantly gained international recognition and already become a classic of the 21stcentury.

    Notes for Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite include angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, guaiac wood, everlasting flower, ylang- ylang, and woods. I am intrigued by the notes especially violet, tuberose and Galbanum in particular I love green fragrances this sounds like a regal concoction fit for a king or queen. A house that I am not familiar with I am afraid. A beautiful description by Ermano I am really fascinated by the note of karo karounde in particular a note that I have got no experience with but sounds like a beautiful mix. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Laurentiu says:

    I have tried all of the five fragrances from this house and each one has something unique and magnetic about it. It is really hard to choose a favourite. Nevertheless, I would love to win Nuit de Bakelite as it has a special charm.
    Thanks. EU

  • Tarleisio says:

    I agree. This is surely one of the greatest tuberoses-with-entourage ever made, and I really should locate that sample again. Thank you for reminding me.

  • NomDeGuerre says:

    The only Naomi Goodsir scent I’m familiar with is Or du Serail which I adore. Ermano’s choice has piqued my interest to try out the rest of the line. I reside in Riga, Latvia.

  • simo975g says:

    So far I’ve only tried Bois d’Ascese from Naomi Goodsir and I was very impressed by the quality. After reading this review, I’m incredibly intrigued by the addition of Karo Karounde absolute, a raw material I haven’t encountered before. You also describe why I love tuberose so much. It’s incredibly multi-faceted. Thank you for the generous giveaway draw. I live in Denmark, EU.

  • LorentzoP says:

    Although i have not experienced this fragrance, I can see that Nuit de Bakélite has all it takes to be named a masterpiece: being the child of the collaboration of two very talented women,
    made using intricate materials, and with the purpose to create a piece of art.
    I enjoy how the review describes the way every note of the perfume unfolds. The art accompanying the article is fantastic, and I’m very intrigued to find out how this fragrance smells.
    I live in Greece.

  • Tereza says:

    Wonderful review! The uniquess of Nuit de Bakelite representing the singular style of Naomi Goodsir herself is what I enjoyed the most in Ermano’s writing! I am based in Switzerland.

  • Jos says:

    I really enjoyed your description Ermano, and when you see / smell or feel a master piece it should be called out as such. I haven’t been able to try this fragrance just yet, but based on this absolutely fantastic review I would really really love to try it!!

    I like how you compare it with other classic fragrances like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle and Malle’s Carnal Flower. I am really very curious about how the absolute extracted from the really smells.

    I hope I win, if not I will go and try if for myself. Thanks so much for the opportunity!! Living in the EU

  • Paeonnia says:

    Wonderful review with all the art references, feelings and perfume references explained. And a wonderful choice for the international women’s day!
    I’m in Slovenia, EU

  • Giorgia295 says:

    So in love with this brand which i dream of having a bottle. The combination is so interesting: tuberose, tobacco, orris and violet. I can’t imagine how it smell but for sure it would be amazing. Love from italy, milan! PS. I leave the like on the Fb page!

  • Tami H. says:

    What a fascinating review and scent!
    Here is my favorite part.
    Merging heritage and innovation, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite finds its own voice among the modern tuberoses as a unique leathery floral, keeping away from other great tuberoses from the last decades: not camphorous (like Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle), nor fruity (like the reference Piguet’s Fracas) or metallic (like Malle’s Carnal Flower). This again and again makes it a Modern Masterpiece that’s instantly gained international recognition and already become a classic of the 21stcentury.
    Thanks for the very generous giveaway, I live in the USA. I have also liked the Modern Masterpiece page.

  • Niinocka says:

    An artistic launch might have foreshadowed the fragrance’s essence of coup de maître, but both experienced noses recognized and confirmed it immediately. I just loved reading about the »click« between Ermano and Michelyn when they encountered this supreme fragrance for the first time. Besides this fact, further argumentation why Nuit de Bakélite counts as a modern masterpiece is convincing: tradition and innovation merged to move into an unprecedented territory to create something profoundly unique, that does not fit to any existing categories, but stands for itself.

    I found it interesting that comparisons with other tuberose-y gems are brought into play to more vividly present the uniqueness and characteristics of this avantgarde fragrance. Another highly intriguing facet presented in the article was connectivity with other artistic expressions that influenced or to some degree contributed to the creative process of developing Nuit de Bakélite.

    Ermano’s article is a marvelous homage to both inspiring women and as such a perfect reading for Internation Women’s Day. It’s also an ode to the masterpiece Naomi Goodsir and Isabelle Doyen created. Captivating, intriguing, and at the same time informative piece of writing. After finishing reading it, I have been overwhelmed by the notion: I have to try Nuit de Bakélite or I will be missing out. 🙂
    Thank you for the inspiring article and a very generous giveaway. I live in the EU.
    Wish Happy Women’s Day to all ladies at CaFleureBon!

  • Constancesuze says:

    I haven’t tried Nuit de Bakelite so I can’t say for the choice, but it sounds lovely. I’m a fan of tuberose and a fan of Jolie Madame.
    Have to beg to differ on the “behind every great woman there is a man” though 😛
    Not the energy I’m taking into IWD

  • xoe says:

    Ermano’s descriptions are masterful! I have not smelled this fragrance, only heard about it. From what I’ve heard, it is a perfect choice as a modern masterpiece. I live in the Us.

  • DespinaVnt says:

    Thank you Ermano for this fascinating article on one of the most wonderful, memorable fragrances of the last decade.
    I loved the detailed, insightful coverage of every aspect of Nuit de Bakélite’s birth: the creative intent and the masterful realization, the materials and the innovation… all presented with a perfect balance between journalism and reviewing. I appreciated, too, the references to legendary tuberose scents – Ermano’s global, in-depth knowledge of perfume history shines bright at every opportunity.
    I’d be ecstatic to win a bottle of this splendid fragrance, thanks to Naomi Goodsir for her generosity.
    Best from France (EU)

  • Mandys64 says:

    I never smell this fragrance, but its often mentioned, and always with awe. I think that here the notion of masterpiece is well deserve. Especially when I learned thanks to this article the time of the time used for its creation, their inspiration and the uniqueness of the result.
    I live in France and I liked CaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces Page.

  • flosolentia says:

    A completely new kind of tuberose, as the article hints, is very interesting! I love tuberose and its different facets, but I haven`t tried the one you described: bitter poisonous tuberose with latex – it sounds very intriguing. I love the drawing that Naomi Goodsir did, it really illustrates the poisonous aspects of this flower. Excellent review!
    I am from the UK

  • Amelia says:

    Brilliant review of Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite with those fantastic photos and references to past and present Tuberose perfumes. I have heard this one is truly unusual and I would be ever so grateful to win. While I don’t know the brand Isabelle Doyen created my all time favourite Vetiver Turtle Front for Les Nez which was also groundbreaking and pushed boundaries.
    I am not on Facebook so I can’t follow modern masterpiece
    This was a perfect story for Intl. Women’s Day
    UK

  • Steve A says:

    I can’t know yet if this is a good choice for modern masterpiece as I haven’t smelled it. The descriptive paragraph and nods to many iconic perfumes makes me want to try this. Or better yet win this draw. US

  • Salem says:

    I am pretty sure I have read about Nuit de Bakelite on Cafleurebon before. Yet this time its essence made its way to my mind and sensitivity in a very direct manner. This sounds truly like an avant garde interpretation of tuberose, wirh green, herbal, leathery, latex-y elements. A combination I could have never imagined could exist and definitely a promise of a (very) modern classic.
    The reason I would like to try it is because I love tuberose in every shape and form. And even though this one seems to be a chypre WITH some tuberose, rather than the other way around, I am sure it is astounding.
    I am in the EU and would like to wish all the ladies (and, why not, the gentlemen?) a happy and joyous day!

  • Osman says:

    Happy Women’s Day!
    I enjoyed this review and liked the part with the connection to Kafka’s surreal story when one turns into a bug that digs its’ way into the core of flowers. Thank you!

  • INYA says:

    I remember bakelite bracelets and even knobs made of it. Thanks for a fabulous article dedicated to International Woman’s Day. I’m especially interested in the karo karounde note. I liked CaFleureBon Modern Masterpieces. Mich USA

  • patrick_348 says:

    Having never smelled Nuit de Bakelite, I can only comment on how convincing a job Ermano did of arguing for its importance. I don’t think of tuberose as “green and earthy” and the idea of giving it a leathery, latex-y slant seems, as Ermano describes it, inspired. I had never heard of Karo Karounde, and his description of it makes me want to get my nose on it ASAP. I live in North Carolina in the US.

  • lorenzo.papi says:

    Hi, I’m Lorenzo from Foligno, Italy. I also like your facebook page.
    I’d like to write my personal interpretation of this amazing fragrance.
    Fresh, green and mineral, almost sharp. The green is acidic and electric, of clover stems, the tuberose is cold and plastic, almost immutable, hard, just like Bakelite. The palpable freshness is like a north wind in the middle of February, you are overwhelmed by it, it crushes you and hardly lets you breathe. Then comes the leather accompanied by a slight and distant glimmer of sweetness, especially in the drydown after many hours, on my skin, this jasmine-like note emerges, sometimes animalic at times soapy, with a hint of ylang-ylang that is of a unique pleasure. To love and have at any cost!
    A nocturnal and mysterious perfume, but also universal, can be the smell of the most precious and luxurious hand soap, but also that of a remote planet at the opposite edge of the universe billions of light years from here and still the smell of Dostoevsky’s white nights, the glimpse of light in the darkest shadow, the liberating scream after silence; clouds of cold breath of breathlessness after a run.

  • Hayley says:

    I would love to try this modern masterpiece! You list it with all the fragrances I love or would love to try. I am a huge green fan. I love reading about the Louise Bourgeois insomnia drawings and this description of insomnia gives a feeling of how the fragrance would be. I am in U.K. and have everything crossed!

  • Claumarchini says:

    A beautiful review about 2 great women, daring, innovative, artistic and successful: thanks! I have read nothing but amazing reviews of Naomi Goodsir’s fragrances and I would really love to be able to sample Nuit de Bakélite. The modern and innovative uses of tuberose of course intrigues me, as well as being listed by Ermano as one of the Modern Masterpieces (I also liked the FB pages with the corresponding post). Thanks a lot for the opportunity! I am based in Italy

  • ElenaChiss says:

    I enjoyed the review and what I liked most about it was the part where Nuit de Bakelite was described as being fiercely green and earthy, where opaque white petals caressed the nostrils like a suede leather glove and that there is a ferociousness to the tuberose absolute that had hints of latex and sap.
    I am based in the EU.

  • doveskylark says:

    As someone who suffers from insomnia on a weekly basis, I was intrigued by Ermano’s description of Louise Bourgeois’ drawings. I also relate to the heightened senses that can sometimes happen after a night of very little or no sleep. I often try on vintage perfumes on sleepless nights. I love Bandit, so Nuit de Bakelite must be a modern masterpiece if it reminds the wearer of this classic. I am now going to research Alberto Giacometti. I appreciate the richness of Ermano ‘s writing and I am very interested in trying Nuit de Bakelite based on his essay.
    I live in the USA.

  • JulietteC says:

    I had the opportunity to test this special interpretation of tuberose and I completely agree with Ermano’s choice, it really is an unusual smell, neon green, an artistic interpretation which takes tuberose on another level. My favorite part of the review is this particular description *this avant-garde vision of tuberose stems tangling on latex, breaking, and letting their venomous sap leak all over*.

    Very, very special perfume!

    Thanks for this chance and for this spectacular gift for International Women’s Day.

    I am from Europe

  • Dilana says:

    I live in the United States, currently in the Northeast. Please enter me in the draw.
    It is fantastic that Cafleurbon recognized International Women’s Day by naming a groundbreaking fragrance by a women, and including art by very different women from different countries as part of the blog post.

  • juhah says:

    Nuit de Bakelite is the only Naomi Goodsir that I don’t already own. Personally, I would give the masterpiece title to Or du Serail or Iris Cendre but I enjoyed reading your reasons for it as well. It is a very interesting scent and I would not mind at all “completing” my Goodsir collection with it. Thank you for the draw, I live in Finland.

  • wandering_nose says:

    I am fully with Ermano on this one – the fragrance sounds so very special with its pronounced green tuberose and violet-tinged opaque leather accompanied by goodness of other amazing notes that it fully deserves the attention and the title of a Modern Masterpiece. I would love to experience the combination of flowers, leather, tobacco and woods. Based in the Republic of Ireland, IE

  • Shibics says:

    What an interesting fragrance – at least from the sound of it. I’d be curious to smell it, while I have under my eyes Ermano’s review,and try to decipher it, with his help.
    When I hear bakelite my mind goes to the awful smell of burnt something, that I experienced whil using the tram – probably that was not at all bakelite, but I cannot get rid of the association, and this definitely peaks my curiosity about NG’s fragrance.
    I live in Europe.
    PS : wasn’t it Balmain with the Vent Vert?

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Oh my goodness I’m so curious about this! This was a beautiful review and such a high recommendation. I don’t even know where to start. I’m curious about the Karo Karounde absolute which sounds just divine with the jasmine and chocolate nuances. And your description of the fatigue after insomnia with heightened senses creates such a vivid imagery as to how the fragrance is perceived. I must try this one, especially given the high praise. I have never tried anything from this house before. Thank you for the review and draw. I’m in the US.

  • mronhubbard says:

    I can only dream what might qualify to 2 such experts as a masterpiece of the decade! An international trip around the mind… Also, I love the detail comparing the scent to an altered state, a sleep-deprived surreality. (USA)

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    Ermano has touched here on the quirky and intense nature of Nuit de Bakelite. It is truly a work of no small genius and always commands my attention. My sample has long since expired and it would be a priviledge to own a bottle. An avant garde and wholly unique signature of both Naomi and Isabelle. It was a great pleasure to read Ermano again and yes its already achieved accolades place it firmly in the modern history of Perfumery. I live in SW France

  • Julien says:

    The scenery, the atmosphere, the masterpiece, all of this is embodied in the review and can confirm that this fragrance is indeed a masterpiece as it is nothing like I have ever smelled before. I did try this out before the pandemic but was not able to get my hands on this since… Reading those words made me smell it all over again.

    I live in Belgium. Have liked the Facebook page under my remylobelle pseudo

  • mleenstra says:

    I love Ermano’s ode to Naomi Goodsir and Isabelle Doyen for creating this beautiful perfume, also in the spirit of international women’s day.
    If Nuit de Bakélite can hold its own amongst Chanel No 19, Vent Vert and Bandit and conjures elements of those in parts of the fragrance I can see why this should be a classic. Also I love leathery flowers some of my current favourites Cuir Fleurrissant by Angelos Olfactives and Sillage Blanc by Dusita. Marit UK

  • KateD says:

    I’m realizing how odd it is that I have tried several of Naomi Goodsir’s fragrances but somehow never gotten my nose on this one. I love florals with something unusual such as coffee or leather. It just makes them so badass. Thank you for the review & the draw. I’m in the US. It was lovely to read about a masterpiece that is still obtainable.

  • Ioana says:

    I am into tuberose and always like to read such mood description reviews ,how can this Nuit de Bakelite be? Thanks from Romania-EU

  • FC says:

    Ermano’s review confirms two of the impressions I got from reading about Nuit de Bakélite’s reviews. One is that it is one of a kind green composition that will satisfy those who want intense green perfumes and second, it employs tuberose in quite an innovative manner. I am in US

  • macaroni023 says:

    Thank you Ermano for such a bright and colorful description of this perfume, it is really easy to imagine how fantastic it would sit on the skin. It sounds so intensely herbal, green and powerful, I would love to try it to see if it is also a masterpiece for my nose. I have tried some other Isabelle Doyen creations and they always smell so luxurious and clean. From the description I think Naomi Goodsir is a very special mysterious and unique perfume.
    I am from the EU, Lithuania

  • dapazin says:

    I am always interested in fragrances that push boundaries but also acknowledge and respect tradition. Nuit de Bakelite, judging by the review is just that! I would love to try out some of the NaomiGoodsir fragrances, this seems just as good as any! I live in Croatia, EU

  • Vanillander65 says:

    I love how tuberose is called the narcotic Queen of white flowers, she is indeed and I’m fascinated by every shape it takes in gifted hands, or better said, noses.
    I have not tried a Naomi Goodsir fragrance yet, but they all seem to tell their own story and Nuit de Bakelite with those green and earthy edges is definitely something I would like to try.
    Thank you for this amazing review!
    I live in EU.

  • SB76 says:

    Excelent choice as a modern masterpiece – as so would be almost all of Naemi Goodsir perfumes.
    Isabelle Doyen stand amongst my favourite perfumers (Goutal’s “Nuit Étoilée” being my absolute favourite creation), so, the reference to Robet Piguet “Bandit” in comparison to “Nuit de Bakélite” doen’t really surprise me. I think it will probably be another one that goes on to perfume History as an icon, as some of other Naomi Goodsir perfumes may weel be.
    I’m from EU (Portugal)

  • Jannick85 says:

    Sounds like a great fragrance with the leathery floral combo, and I haven’t really tried many scents with tuberose , so it would be interesting to try this one

    From Denmark

  • Anna Egeria says:

    I think that Ermano chose well. I have never tried Nuit de Bakelite but I believe it might be the tuberose I’ve been searching for. I’m in the US and thank you for this draw!

  • smm13 says:

    I don’t often think of green notes and tuberose together in a fragrance so I can see how this innovation could be worthy of a modern masterpiece designation. I’m very curious to experience it for myself. I live in the USA.

  • zhiang0113 says:

    I haven’t personally smelled Nuit de Bakélite, but the people I know who have smelled it all say that it is unforgettable.

    From Ermano’s review, I can see why – Ms. Goodsir’s strong sense of artistic vision, coupled with Mme. Doyen’s artistry and finesse, resulted in a work of art that is strikingly and unapologetically itself. Tuberose is a notoriously difficult beast to tame, but when done right, it can be so complex, sensual, and multifaceted. The visuals accompanying the composition appear to have strongly guided the development of the scent too, and I am eager to see how they have manifested in olfactory terms.

    I have tried Or du Sérail from the house, and I was impressed by its complexity and uniqueness of the composition. I would love to have the opportunity to experience Nuit de Bakélite too, especially since I have recently gotten my hands on some tuberose absolute and I absolutely adore its aroma! I live in the UK, and thank you for hosting this giveaway!

  • zhiang0113 says:

    Sorry, just to add on to my previous comment – I have liked the Modern Masterpieces page on Facebook! 🙂

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great rewview Ermano and Michelyn.

    I appreciate this review becuase it gives me insight into the inspirations that this intensely green fragrance has drawn from – the energy of the insomniac paintings and the tension in the sculpture being great examples.

    I also thought that it was very cool that Mme Doyen collects bakelite jewellery – what a unique bit of history to draw inspiration from. Something that was once so commonplace has been replaced because of how brittle it is.

    I unofrtunately have not smelt anything from this house.

    Cheers from WI, USA