Tanja Bochnig, photo by April Aromatics
April’s child, Tanja Boching (born on 1st April) has been present in the world of indie/artisan natural perfumery for 12 years! Now, that’s really something. The more she gives, the more she seems to grow as a perfumer together with her line of fragrances, many of which I’m certain you’ve heard about: Calling All Angels, a fragrance that’s bottled on Full Moon, and containing 24 carat gold flakes was The Art&Olfaction Awards Winner in 2014, Irisistible a finalist for the same award category in 2019, and Unter Den Linden (2015) is for me a fragrance that immediately transports me to that very street in Tanja’s home town – Berlin, with a strong sense of summertime sadness, Weltschmerz running through my veins.
With every new release, she manages to surprise with the dedicated way she handles natural ingredients, notes or specific accords that seem to be so well known: just last year Tanja reinterpreted iris in her own, unique way. Irisistible (what a great name!) seems to draw out all the rootiness of the iris, its outside softness, and inner strength, freshness and creaminess at the same time. April Aromatics perfumes are 100 percent botanical – what you always need to keep on your mind is that you simply must give them your skin, and be very patient. Let them grow on you, breathe with you, blend with your skin – only then do they fully develop and give their best!
Heart of Grass, photo by Pexells
Although Vetiver Coeur was officially launched in mid-December 2019, I think that the right time for it is – now. Because it seems that we’ve all faced so many challenges in 2019, because holidays season and festivities are over, because January is definitely the most depressing month of the year, and an infusion of harmony and peace is more than welcome. Vetiver has always been referred to as the “Oil of Tranquility“, not only spiritually because it’s long-prized as a fixative in perfumes, used to stabilize other, lighter and more volatile ingredients. Oil of Tranquility for people and perfumes!
You might consider vetiver as a perfume ingredient to be rich, warm, dry, earthy, woody, balsamic, smoky or resembling leather – even leaning on a masculine side, but it can also exhibit its sweet, slightly floral, almost violet- or sandalwood-like facets. It is very versatile, and Tanja wanted to do something different with it: to remove all its bitter, smoky, or “rough“ characteristics, and show us the soft and gentle, loving and calming heart of vetiver – April Aromatics Vetiver Coeur.
So she did, and like with most indie artisan perfumers, it’s personal. She was drawn to vetiver not only because it would make a great addition to the overall April Aromatics fragrance collection, but also in search of her personal tranquility, subtracting some bitter parts in the process, reaching all the way down to her very own “roots“. Seeking for inner balance, smoothness and harmony, as she admitted to me when we discussed Vetiver Coeur’s “roots“: this plant teaches us that grass can grow very tall if it has a firm, interlocked system. When strong winds blow over it, it bends so that it doesn’t break, and not only that vetiver doesn’t break – it’s also used to prevent soil erosion.
Vetiver, photo by April Aromatics
Just like in one of the ancient Aesop’s Fables – The Oak and The Reed which tells us a tale about an Old Oak that grew on a bank of a river, and was uprooted by a severe gale of wind. The Oak fell among some Reeds and wondered why they, so frail and slender, managed to weather the storm, whereas the Oak, with all its strength, height and might had been torn up by the roots and thrown into the river. Reeds told Oak that it was stupid and stubborn, it fought against the storm which proved much stronger: Reed chose wisely to bow instead, and thus stay alive. To bend, and not to break…there lies great wisdom.
Vetiver Coeur bends gently and softly, opening with citruses that enhance the lemony aspect of vetiver showing us it’s sunny, optimistic side. With a touch of the bitterness of reality. Greener hues underline this immense brightness, rising to the surface, playing and adding joyfully their herbal breath of fresh coriander and clary sage. This transition is calm, skilfully executed and well balanced: it feels like a wake-up call.
Vetiver Roots, photo by April Aromatics
As the fragrance sinks deeper and blends with my skin, the warmer it gets. The heart of the fragrance – soft and caressing vetiver beats stronger, tenderly uncurling its coiled gentleness supported by flowing iris and the glowing beauty of orange blossoms: this stage of the fragrance is what I found most enjoying, so different than any other vetivers I’ve felt recently. It sways in slow motion from green to woody-feeling hues, rolling comfortably in its own, relaxed rhythm. Much later, orris roots interlink with vetiver roots and sandalwood, providing a nest layered with soft tobacco leaves where vetiver can safely rest in the drydown.
Vetiver Coeur is a much-needed softness in harsh surroundings, vulnerability turned into a strength and a bright light of beauty that lies in harmony.
Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Mandarin, Pink Pepper, Nutmeg, Coriander, Orange Flower Absolute, Clary Sage, Iris, Rose Absolute, Vetiver from Haiti and India, Sandalwood Mysore, Cedarwood Virginia, Orris Root, Tobacco, Carnation, Tonka Bean.
Disclaimer: the sample of Vetiver Coeur was kindly provided by April Aromatics. My opinions and feelings are always of my own.
Elena Cvjetkovic, Senior Contributor
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Photos: Elena Cvjetkovic, April Aromatics, Pexells
Vetiver Coeur 30 ml, photo by April Aromatics
Thanks to the generosity of Tanja Bochnig, we have 30 ml of Vetiver Coeur for a registereded reader in the USA and EU. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Vetiver Coeur based on Elena’s review and where you live. Draw closes 1/11/2020.
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