Saatchi Art Moonlight Night by Ljubov Ponomarova
“Out of the night that covers me
Black as the pit from pole to pole,
I thank whatever gods may be
For my unconquerable soul.” ~ William Ernest Henley, 1888
Steppenwolf by Veltti from eloquentmadness
The above four lines sprang to mind immediately upon opening the black box vial of Phoenicia Perfumes Dark Musk which independent perfumer David Falsberg sent me. Black Box, in my mind – because when Hermann Hesse’s protagonist Harry Haller (in his iconic novel Steppenwolf) inquires about the magic theater (Black Box Theater) he is informed that it is “Not for everybody”. David, not unlike the Victorian poet William Ernest Henley – continues to surmount numerous challenges and creates, reinvents the fragrant arena through his unique, highly personal olfactory lens. His most recent handiwork Dark Musk takes us down a path which invites scrutiny, meditation and self-examination.
David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes
Now, David warned me that his attar was a Beast – and I brook no argument, especially during its first several minutes upon the flesh. There is a reason that Phoenicia Perfumes Dark Musk is offered in a ‘dabber bottle’: any other alternative is simply implausible. If you are patient, you are rewarded; the blatantly urinous opening may jolt you out of complacency if you refuse to wait. PLEASE don’t put it on paper: that was my first error of judgment because the fragrance does absolutely (sic) nothing for you that way. It demands the carnal canvas to evolve. Intrigued, I hope? Let’s delve further…
Medieval Middle Ages Herb Medicine via brewminate.com
Dark Musk is patently non-floral, as its strength arises from a character firmly rooted (all puns intended) in the realm of herbalist and wood. How is that musk, exactly? Well – consider ambrette, silky botanical animalic, for one – or angelica seed. Costus root, the scent of slightly unwashed scalp of the beloved; cumin, that love-or-hate evocation of sweat. Jatamansi, aka nard of Biblical fame – is also known as spikenard, a relative of its soothing musky, earthy cousin valerian; it flourishes in the Himalayas. It was spikenard with which the Magdalene anointed Jesus’ feet – the cost of which, at the time – would have equaled an entire year’s wages or several tens of thousands of dollars today. David revealed that his source of jatamansi macerated for three years in order to develop fully. When he wed all the elements to a beautiful sandalwood the sorcery was complete. Scorched and leathery as primaeval fire with sacred roots at the base of the flame, it haunts with a faintly medicinal melancholic sweetness in the drydown. All that birch tar exerts pronounced effect, redolent of tanned skins and Spanish leather boots – in fact, when I dab a long-discontinued drop of Santa Maria Novella’s estratto triplo Peau d’Espagne on my wrist for reference they bear a familial bone structure (minus the flowers, of course). Provided you haven’t doused yourself unconscionably in Dark Musk it simmers down to an extremely beautiful meditative companion, smokily tender and thoughtful. So vastly different from how it all began, so take your pleasure as you will. In the words of Hermann Hesse, “it’s a poor fellow who can’t take his pleasure without asking other people’s permission.”
Notes: nard (jatamansi),angelica, costus, birch tar, ambrette, cumin, valerian, Australian sandalwood
Sample provided by David Falsberg – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Phoenicia Perfumes Dark Musk
Thanks to the generosity of David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes, we have a 5ml bottle of Dark Musk for one registered reader in the USA. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what aspects of Phoenicia Perfumes Dark Musk intrigue you. If you know David’s work please welcome him back after a brief hiatus. Draw closes 12/3/2019
Editor’s Note: David Falsberg received a best of scent award in 2013. Some longtime readers may remember David as a Contributor for Our Perfumer’s Workshop Series and his article on the Art of Enfleurage is one of the most read in the series. His cult perfume REALOUD is reviewed here. Tama Blough (RIP) reviewed Gone But Not.. an archival perfume.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
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