2019 Portland Sniff PDX in autumn

On November 2nd, 2019 Pacific Northwest perfume lovers coming down from our Halloween sugar highs took an excursion to Portland’s finest perfume shops for the third official Portland Perfume Sniff & Swap. Artisan perfumer Shelley Waddington of En Voyage Perfumes reignited the event for 2019 after a pause in 2018 and I’m deeply appreciative that she did.

 Shelley Waddington, Photo credit Richard Hall

Hostess, award-winning perfumer, and author of “Perfuming with Natural Isolates”, Shelley Waddington is well known in the niche fragrance community. At every Portland Sniff, Shelley has magnanimously treated her guests to exclusive pre-launch experiences, and this year’s special treat was a first sniff into November’s release of  En Voyage Perfumes Nepenthe. Two years in the making, Nepenthe has already been recognized by the Artisan Fragrance Salon of San Francisco as one of the Five Best Artisan Perfume Launches of 2019, and it has easily become my favorite of all Shelley’s impressive creations.

Portland Sniff  En Voyage Perfumes Nepenthe, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

Nepenthe is the potion tragic Greek figure Helen of Troy uses to forget her misery, and the modern interpretation is a splash of floral green waters on a teary cheek. The fresh bouquet of violet, lavender, and narcissus is set in a vase filled with iced cucumber water, a blend that feels especially suited to early spring when new flower buds defy the cold weather clinging to April. Shelley’s stated goal was to make a perfume for Helen of Troy to “celebrate the victory of her discovering her peace” and the comforting watercolor hues of Nepenthe certainly achieve the desired effect.

 Portland Sniff tote held by Hilary, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

The 2019 Portland Sniff & Swap was a different affair without the presence of beloved community member and CaFleureBon Sr Editor Robert Herrmann rejoining us as he had intended. In anticipation of the Portland revival, Robert, ever a master of detail, had tote bags made to commemorate the occasion and remind us what a generous soul he was.

2019 Portland Sniff honored Sr. Editor Emeritus Robert Herrmann, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

Shelley honored Robert’s memory with an altar, and since November 2nd was the final day of Dios De Los Muertos I choose to believe we lovingly summoned his spirit and gave our last respects to our departed friend.

  Portland Sniff Fumerie bar, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

Our first  shop of the day was Fumerie Parfumerie where owner Tracy Tsefalas made suggestions and answered questions about the luxe fragrances she curates at her boutique. Recent additions to Fumerie include Arquiste and Lubin’s Aristia Collection, another classical Greek perfume inspiration since “Aristia” is how Homer’s Iliad described the outstanding qualities of the greatest heroes.

Portland Sniff Slumberhouse, Photo Credit Fumerie

Fumerie customers can’t get enough of local perfumer Josh Lobb’s Slumberhouse with a cult following. Tracy mentioned that a recent restocking sold out by pre-order before ever hitting the shelves, “Never had as much demand for a line before!”

 

 Portland Sniff Perfume House group, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

Autumn in Portland is fickle and quickly flips between sunny and soggy. For all three years of the Portland Sniff we’ve been blessed with mild weather as we moved between locations, making the post-lunch shuffle to the Perfume House a short and pleasant trip.

Portland Sniff Kabeah, Photo Credit Samantha Berg

I discovered a hidden jewel at The Perfume House, a new line called Kabeah Paris and their magnificent offering Secret De K. Somehow perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche (Invasion Barbare, Rose Privee) managed to translate petitgrain, geranium and wild strawberry into a surprisingly mature candied strawberry without a touch of cloying artificiality. My guess is the galbanum and fresh-floral geranium help keep the strawberry on a graceful note.  Kabeah Paris is not yet listed in any database and it’s not available in many stores, and that’s why I love the Perfume House’s massive, quirky collection. I purchased their last bottle of Secret De K, which also turned out to also be the last Kabeah Paris bottle in the store until the next order brings this woman-owned line back to where eager sniffers like me can chance upon it.

 Portland Sniff Swap Table Photo Credit Samantha Berg

As evening came on, people unloaded their boxes and swap coordinator Jon Wilson walked us through the mechanics of mutually successful swapping. Photos don’t do justice to the overwhelming amount and variety of items people brought with them, but I tried my best to capture how every available surface was dripping in bottles, miniatures, and samples.

Kindness shines through the time shared with my perfume-loving neighbors enjoying our appreciation for the invisible arts together. Many thanks to Shelley and event sponsors Fumerie Parfumerie, The Perfume House, Ron Hall  (Robert’s husband), and Margo d’Angelo as well as the volunteer crew for plotting the finer points so people with a passion for perfume can enjoy each other’s company while making new scent discoveries.

Samantha Berg, Guest Contributor and ÇaFleureBon reader (who has penned these Portland Sniff and Swap reports since the inception of Portland Sniff in 2016)

Follow on Instagram: @cafleurebon @en_voyage_perfumes @fumeriepdx