Branch of Orange Tree in Bloom, Angeles M Pomata via Fine Art America
There are times when you just want lovely. Not complicated, not esoteric, no big story. Something lightly elegant, easy, well-done, like a well-cut linen blouse or the perfect little black dress. Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom has just the ticket – in fact five of them. Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Collection comprises five graceful variations on the theme of orange blossom that are all downright beautiful.
Sylvaine Delacourte, photo via delacourte.com
Orange blossom in its different forms is the source of neroli, orange blossom water, petitgrain, and orange blossom absolute. “My challenge,” says founder and perfumer Sylvaine Delacourte, “was to present it differently each time and give it multiple faces: sparkling, luminous, delicious, sensual, charismatic. My hope was to update and imbue it with the complexity, elegance and unexpectedness that we want from a fragrance.” Each fragrance in the Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Collection is a sister to the others in their shared orange blossom DNA, like the Muses of classical mythology, each with a unique personality.
Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Oranzo (Patrice Revillard, Sylvaine Delacourte): Oranzo is a deliciously sparkly aperitif of heady orange blossom and tangy petitgrain, like a spritz of spring. Delacourte describes this perfume as frosty; but to me it is playful, lighthearted but not girlish, with a cheeky herbal bite. Tarragon is potent note in both perfumery and cookery and could easily have overwhelmed the milky sweetness of the flower. But it is reined in, its anisic, aromatic scent adding a contrapuntal bitter savour. If you’re in the mood for orange blossom at its most carefree, Oranzo is for you.
Notes: Orange, petitgrain, tarragon.
Poppy Corby-Tuech in The Collection, Amazon Studios
Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Olyssia (Randa Hammami, Sylvaine Delacourte): Tres francaise Olyssia is perhaps the most classical orange blossom of the collection: perfectly structured, balanced between historically masculine and feminine notes, retro tinged. There’s a vintage quality to Olyssia that recalls the swan-like florals of 1950s France, like Givenchy L’Interdit or Lucien Lelong Indiscret; milky florals, a hint of fizz, and something just slightly earthy thrumming below the surface. Although it’s not listed, I’d swear there was aldehyde in the opening and a splash of tea somewhere in the middle. Jasmine and sandalwood make this confection creamy and romantic. This is the one you want to don when you’re thinking of ballgowns and elbow gloves.
Notes: Jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver, orange blossom.
Photo by Cecilia Austin
Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Osiris (Irene Farmachidi): Named for the Egyptian god of the underworld, Osiris (whose names means “mighty”) is the least conventional fragrance; a velvety, spicy-sweet fragrance that would wear well on a man or a woman. The clementine note that opens Osiris merges quickly with pink pepper and cedar. For once, the pink peppercorn note does not come across as artificial; it has the slightly sweet pungency of the cracked dried bud; the cedar is ever so slightly smoky, like wood that has dried out over time. Sesame is a neat addition, adding a bitter nuttiness that cuts through the denser notes. Osiris is a sophisticated, modern alternative to the resinous and woody-spicy amalgam of winter scents.
Notes: : Clementine, sesame, cedarwood, orange blossom, pink peppercorn, guaiac wood.
Photo by Steven Meisel for Vogue
Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Oscarine (Irene Farmachidi): Saucy, bubbly Oscarine is the flirt of the bunch. She packs a punch of juicy, irresistible blackcurrant right off the top. A dash of bergamot and some dark, leafy basil add a summery touch. Here, the orange blossom hangs back a bit, letting those effervescent opening notes play around a while. Then, a staccato sharpness from pine. It’s a strange combination of notes on paper, but it works delightfully. When I need a hit of the heat, this one makes the blossoms rain from the trees. It’s a lovely touch of late Spring, even on a frigid November night.
Notes: Blackcurrant, pine, basil, bergamot, orange blossom.
Photo by Sandra Fourqui for Bloginity
Ozkan (Irene Farmachidi): Leather and crème brulee, a touch of licorice whip; Ozkan is the seductress of the sisters. Layers of dusty, smoky, saffron, milky tonka bean and dried leaf patchouli pull back and gradually reveal the orange blossom at the center like Salome’s seven veils. Ozkan is sensual, a little boozy, with nutty overtones from the tonka that get richer and more gourmand as times goes on. It takes a while for me to discern the orange blossom, because its lusher, more floral aspects are muted in favour of the flower’s inherent creaminess. Snuggle up under the covers with a dab on the nape of your neck and see what happens.
Notes: Tonka bean, leather, saffron, patchouli, orange blossom, neroli.
Which is my favourite? Yesterday, under a cold weak sun, it was zingy Oscarine. The day before, in the slumbery hours of morning, it was Osiris. Last night, a spritz of Olyssia and Oranzo, one on each wrist, brought a smile at day’s end. Tonight, as I type this, I’m breathing in that kitten with a whip, Ozkan. And that’s the beauty of this collection – there’s a whole orange blossom wardrobe to let you wear whatever style strikes your fancy.
Disclaimer: Samples of Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Collection kindly provided by Sylvaine Delacourte. My opinions are my own.
– Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Collection, photo by Lauryn
Thanks to the generosity of Sylvaine Delacourte Paris, we have a sample set of all five fragrances in the Orange Blossom Collection for one registered reader worldwide. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about the Sylvaine Delacourte Orange Blossom Collection, where you live and which of the five in the set appeal to you the most, Draw closes 11/19/2019.
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Please read Sr. Editor Robert Herrmann’s (RIP) review of Sylvaine Delacourte’s Vanilla collection here. I named Sylvaine Delacourte’s new House as the recipient of CaFleureBon Best Buzz of 2016-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
Robert also reviewed Florentina from the Musk Collection here
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