Nomenclature Psy_cou. Photo by Gail Gross©
“I was your first. Then you forgot me. I love you to death…” – Psy-cou
Wherever I turn, indoors or out, I am greeted by olfactory facets and reflections of coumarin, those sweet, grassy and gourmand aromas that define so much of what grows in the garden and comes to the table. The scent of coumarin is found naturally in hay, tonka bean, lavender, woodruff, liatris and sweet clover; in fruits like black currant, apricot, cherry and strawberry and has even been isolated from orchids and legumes. In the kitchen, the spice cabinet is redolent of coumarin via the aromas of almonds, vanilla and cinnamon.
British Chemist Sir William Henry Perkin and French Perfumer/joint owner of Houbigant, Paul Parquet. Images via Wikipedia
The principle aromatic compound in Tonka bean, the Coumarin® molecule, was first synthesized in 1868 by British chemist Sir William Henry Perkin. In 1882-84, the white crystals of coumarin became the foundation of our new age of modern perfumery with Paul Parquet’s groundbreaking Houbigant Fougère Royale. Over the years there have been safety concerns regarding the overuse of coumarin in personal care products. Today strictly regulated percentages of coumarin and similar synthesized molecules are deemed safe and, as such, are found in a majority of fine fragrances as both scent and fixative.
The Coumarin® molecule. Photo by Gail Gross
When I learnt that Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero, founders and creative directors of Nomenclature were teaming up with award-winning perfumer Frank Voelkl once again to introduce Nomenclature Psy_cou, a perfume featuring the synthesized Coumarin® molecule, I found myself wondering what more could possibly be revealed about the various facets of coumarin.
Janet Leigh in Psycho via IMDb TV
“Call it the primal scream of perfumery. Coumarin was the very first molecule that allowed perfumers to…venture into modern abstraction…To rebirth coumarin and bring it back to its original modernity in Psy_cou, Frank Voelkl had to cure it from its compulsive desire for sugar in order to let its deepest psyche break free.” – Nomenclature
Frank Voelkl of Firmenich
Primal scream notwithstanding,Nomenclature Psy_cou will not leave you overdosing on sugar or gasping from nightmares of Anthony Perkins creeping into your scented shower. For his unique and fresh take on coumarin, perfumer Frank Voelkl, while initially featuring the scent of new mown hay, manages to take Nomenclature Psy_cou out of the garden and off the farm with his deft use of sparkling juniper berries, contemplative incense and exotic saffron.
Nomenclature Psy_cho with a “bucolic bale”. Composite photo by Gail Gross ©
My first impression of Nomenclature Psy_cou is indeed that of sweet hay, but only for a moment. The “bucolic bale” (so to speak) is heated up, and then set afire with the woody spice of cardamom and dark, slightly scorched coffee. Sparks of glittering juniper berry ignite rich Palo Santo and dark oud woods, creating the olfactory images of swirling incense and sacred ritual. After about an hour, as the fire dies, Nomenclature Psy_cou cools into a reprise of fresh cut hay, colored with the slightly bitter, mineral warmth of saffron, resting on the ashes of a persistent Palo Santo. Throughout the twelve hour plus life of Nomenclature Psy_cou, Frank Voelkl has managed infuse the familiar coumarin molecule with a new and very modern excitement and purpose, featuring bright sparks of juniper berry and, all the while, holding the smoldering, tenacious holy wood of Palo Santo in check, perfectly sane and beautifully balanced.
Notes: Coumarin®, Cardamom SFE (supercritical fluid extraction), Juniper Berries, Coffee, Incense, Saffron, Oud and Palo Santo.
Disclaimer: I would like to thank Nomenclature for the exciting and beautifully fragrant experience of Psy_cou. My opinions are my own.
Gail Gross – Senior Editor
Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature we have one 50 ml bottle of Nomenclature Psy_cou (for one registered reader in the US (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Nomenclature Psy_cou based on Gail’s review and favorite fragrance from Nomenclature. Draw closes 11/15/2019
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