Lili Bermuda Nautilus artwork courtesy of the Lili Bermuda Perfumery ©
Even in our brave, new world of “gender fluid” fragrances, there are still olfactory personas easily recognizable as masculine or feminine. While I applaud polarity, I often find that many of the scents designed specifically for men sacrifice symmetry and balance for a strange and artificial notion of what it means to be fresh, invigorating and clean. The ultra bright, in your face introductory blasts of “masculinity “ that characterizes more than a few popular, designer and even niche men’s fragrances often miss the point of what it means to smell good. Over wrought and overly engineered, these attempts at olfactory machismo simply come across as too harsh and edgy or too seductive (yes there can be such a thing). Happily Lili Bermuda’s new Nautilus Eau de Toilette for men is the antithesis of the old and stereotypical definition of what it means to smell like a man. Lili Bermuda Nautilus is at once fresh, balanced and invigorating with just enough discretion to be mysterious. Inspired by the sea and the perfect wave, Nautilus reflects the symmetry of the nautilus shell – elegant and strong, like the men I love…or the man I would be.
Pearlized Chambered Nautilus (Nautilus pompilius) with Lili Bermuda Nautilus Eau de Toilette. Photo by Gail Gross ©
It was once believed that every Nautilus shell demonstrated nature’s perfect design – the golden section (golden rectangle). Now it seems that only one species in the genus (the rare Crusty Nautilus) presents a relatively close mathematical match to the golden ratio. Nevertheless, the proportions of seashells, especially those of the nautilus, continue to inspire and dictate aesthetics in music, literature, architecture and even in olfactory art.
Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone. Photo courtesy of Lili Bermuda Perfumery ©
The order and beauty of the pearly chambers of the nautilus shell, as well as the power and energy of a storm at sea, have inspired Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone, the owner and perfumer of the historic Lili Bermuda Perfumery, to create her new Lili Bermuda Nautilus for men. “I wanted this fragrance to be an oceanic reflection of Bermuda and I wanted to give it a very masculine aura…a beautiful emotion shaped by ocean and revealed in a masterpiece that combines energy, science and great fragility.” – Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone.
Photo of a Wave via Pixabay ©
Lili Bermuda Nautilus begins as a breath of brisk, salty sea air and cool sunshine. If you spend any time on or near the water you will immediately recognize this vibrant, honest, crisp opening, an impression masterfully recreated in scent from a well considered blend of bergamot, verbena and petit grain. The initial keen breeze of fragrance is freshened and fortified in the heart by a brilliant oceanic accord; the pleasures of fair winds and following seas nuanced with notes of bright lavender, spiced with geranium leaves and flowers.
Chambered Nautilus with Lili Bermuda Nautilus Eau de Toilette. Photo by Gail Gross ©
As Lili Bermuda Nautilus dries down, the maritime fougère fuses with the resinous, woody mysteries of vetiver. For at least ten hours on skin and over twenty-four on clothing, Lili Bermuda Nautilus creates a confident aura of masculinity and leaves me with the bracing sensation of an energetic day well spent on the ocean. I realize that the effect and especially the longevity of a fragrance will not be the same on a man as on woman. That being said, I have no gender bias when it comes to perfumes and colognes. I wear what I love, and today I am loving and redefining who I am, the image I project and the woman I imagine myself to be with the balance, symmetry and elegant masculine energy of Lili Bermuda Nautilus Eau de Toilette.
Notes: Bergamot, verbena, petit grain, lavender, geranium, Stormy Sea Accord, vetiver root and white musk.
Disclaimer: I would like to thank The Bermuda Perfumery for my cherished bottle of Nautilus. My opinions are my own.
Gail Gross – Senior Editor
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Lili Bermuda Nautilus Label. Photo by Gail Gross
Thanks to the generosity of Lili Bermuda we have one 100 ml bottle of Lili Bermuda Nautilus available for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Lili Bermuda Nautilus, based on Gail’s review, and where you live. Do you believe that fragrances are inherently masculine or feminine? Draw closes 11/8/2019
Editor’s Note: Senior Editor Emeritus Robert Herrmann (RIP) was a 2019 Perfumed Plume finalist for his essay “Scented Spirits” Lili Bermuda Celestia
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