The Rat Pack in Ocean’s 11, 1960 is the perfect metaphor for DSH Perfumes Sharkskin
Ice blue jacket, vent down the middle
Sharkskin trimmings and all that jazz
Real rabbit’s foot on a two-tone tie pin
Lots of good luck and razzamatazz— Richard Thompson, Little Blue Number
Milla Jovovich, photo by Terry Richardson, 1998©
The Rat Pack. 007. Film Noir private dicks. Ever since the 1950s, sharkskin suits have been the epitome of masculine chic. With the right pair of Ray-Bans, a cocked fedora and a dry martini waiting somewhere nearby, the favored suit of everyone from Dean Martin to Don Draper made men look classy while cool. Sharkskin, the newest addition to DSH Perfumes’ limited-edition Heirloom Elixir collection, channels the dapper feel of the classic sharkskin into an old-school fougere updated with a bit of fizz and flower. The resulting citrus-lavender-mock orange cologne, with leafy, mossy glints, fits the sultry weather as perfectly as a notched Savile Row jacket on Cary Grant.
Grace Kelly begins work January 19, 1956 with Frank Sinatra on “High Society”, the last movie she’ll make before her scheduled wedding shortly after Easter to Prince Rainier III of Monaco. (AP Photo)
DSH Perfumes Sharkskin has a perfectly pitched middle between the lavender-herbal feel of a vintage barbershop fougere and a modern, tangy floral. And that’s how Dawn Spencer Hurwitz intended it: “In my perfect fantasy, this is the scent that both Frank Sinatra AND Grace Kelly are wearing to be cool as a cucumber, the picture of elegance, and ever so fresh in the heat of the NYC summer, circa 1956.” The use of civet, oakmoss, and ambergris summon echoes of fragrances that were popular when sharkskin suits were at their height, and they give Sharkskin a subtle retro quality. But this is balanced by a fresh, generous helping of lime, aldehydes, lemon and petitgrain sharpens the composition, providing a vibrant, brash contrast to the sturdier notes.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
Somewhere in the middle, I become aware of the gorgeously soft richness of mock orange – a woefully underused note – and soapy, creamy neroli, which float to the surface like scattered petals on still water. There’s a just a touch of rose lurking in the background that accentuates the gentle flowery sweetness as time goes on. But before you start thinking Sharkskin has become a feminine floral, the tartness of citrus and herbaceous lavender are still right where they were, underpinning the more bloomy notes with enough fougere suaveness to make this fragrance stay squarely between traditional feminine and masculine scents.
Don Draper (Jon Hamm) – Mad Men – Season 1, Episode 10 – Photo Credit: Carin Baer/AMC
There’s a bit of light, clean musk and sandalwood in the dry-down, which add a bit of texture, but the balance of fougere and floral remains deft throughout. If you’re looking for something other than the usual run of summery citrusy florals and barbershop colognes, DSH Perfumes Sharkskin is an easy-to-wear, debonair fragrance that whistles jauntily in the hottest, stickiest weather. It’s one cool drink of water, daddio.
Notes: Mock orange (accord), Tahitian lime, ambergris, Australian sandalwood, brown oakmoss, civet, green oakmoss, musk, Tunisian neroli, Turkish rose otto, leafy green (accord), aldehydes, bergamot, espirit de lavande, lavender flower, lemon, petitgrain.
Disclaimer: Sample of DSH Perfumes Sharkskin kindly provided by DSH Perfumes. My opinions are my own.
Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
DSH Perfumes Sharkskin Heirloom #7
Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, we have a one dram bottle of DSH Perfumes Sharkskin from her limited edition Heirloom Elixir Collection for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Sharkskin based on Lauryn’s review, and where you live, Have you tried any of the Heirloom Elixirs? Draw ends 7.21.2019.
Follow us @cafleurebon @dshperfumes on Instagram.
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our Blog Feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.