Abel Odor Pink Iris, Collage Danu Seith-Fyr, Images Abel Odor
Always a pleasure to delve in and discover my fellow New Zealanders work, Francis Shoemack, (who lives in Amsterdam) and (San Paolo based) Perfumer Isaac Sinclair of Abel Odor have always delivered inspiring modern natural perfumery. The twist is ever with a current edge using timeless components expertly woven into the life of this century. I had the great pleasure to reunite with Frances and to meet at last with Isaac earlier this year at Esxence 19 in Milan.
Abel Odor team, Francis Shoemack and Isaac Sinclair (middle), Danu Seith-Fyr (r) Esxence 19
I am often at odds with the expression of the feminine in this time, a light bereftness accompanies me from other times, long forgotten and of elegance discarded in the wake of the quest for equality. Here, I find in the new release of Abel Pink Iris, a quiet reassurance that there is a way forward, to encompass a ground both of freedoms without a sacrifice of femininity. Here is the clarion call to retrieve a heritage of feminine attributes yet sculpted for this time. As perfect on masculine skin as on feminine.
Wildflower Waiheke and Zoe Southwood by Tate Fullerton 2019
Abel Odor Pink Iris is an epitome of modern elegance, a refined floral, a femininity of softer edges and resilient hope. Do you ever find yourself looking whimsically in a vague longing at the powder- petal beauty of a single dew-fresh rosebud or in exaltation of the breeze caressing blush tinted linen on a garden line? I am usually hard to please when it comes to some florals, as they can hold connotations of the past, here however Pink Iris is Perfumery in the 21st century.
Psyche Ophiuchus©
Trailing whispers of gentle grace, it illuminates a path through grey and dross landscapes, epitome of a firm feminine line of soft eloquence. Speaking in tones that offer us a refuge. The pace of life paused, the hurrying here and there, ceased. Raspberry leaf is paired with Szechuan pepper and basil for a contemporary introduction. Soft folds of linen sweetened with rose and vanilla, sweep the floor as she passes and carves a valley of tranquility whence she passes. The iris is one of the most skillfully expressed I have encountered; it holds perfect poise and is the golden chord that is at the heart of the composition. A heart that is a absolute perfection of harmonic with the rose and jasmine, as if each note is enveloped by the next in seamless unity. I am transfixed by the stillness and refined movement of hues that drift from my wrist, an exquisite capturing of tones of dawn and dusk, moments of liminality, meeting of one against another. Sensual and with a presence that is defined yet not overstated, a sip of European style that garners all eras together and presents a beautiful cache, enveloped in silken edges to the 21st century.
Oleg Oprisco©
There is within its folds, a perfection of simple peacefulness, tall and full of poise it glides through the chaos of modern life exhaling a trail of simple pleasures, the walk in a garden bursting in pastel light and delicate perfumes, the light fading into a myriad of pinks and blues as the Sun dips. Carpets of subtle florals entice me to simply inhale this paradise of a walled garden. Call to mind the effortless brushing of velveteen petals as you glide effortlessly barefoot, fingers entwined in floral airs, in long skirted swirls. The gentle caressing of slender fingertips in subtle motion across piano keys. The rippling of linen pastel robes, a never-ending sheen on flesh.
“Flowers spring to blossom where she walks. The careful ways of duty; Our hard, stiff lines of life with her. Are flowing curves of beauty.” ― John Greenleaf Whittier
Underneath rides an quiet simplicity that is vanilla and plant-derived musk, a classic opus that is the sensation of pure garments on skin, the aspect of the perfume that seems to weld to my body and integrate, surrounding me in a cocoon, a gentle armour of aesthetic, strong and true, against the harshness of living. I drift amongst the blossoming, youthful and timelessness of all graces. It is a bright, young thing, full of simple exuberance and an unrestrained delight in all that’s beautiful.
A glorious floral overture to retreat.
Notes: Sichuan pepper, raspberry leaf, basil, Iris, Rose, Jasmine, Vanilla and Plant-derived Musk
Abel Odor is a 100 PERCENT NATURAL house and was a CaFleureBon’s winner for Best Natural Perfume House of 2018. Read Ida’s review of Nurture X Grey label, Robert’s reviews of Green Cedar, Cobalt Amber and Red Santal, Danu’s reviews of Grey Labdanum and White Vetiver. As reported by Ermano Picco in 2017 Isaac Sinclair was a pupil of Maurice Roucel). Golden Neroli was a Best of Summer 2018 pick by Danu -Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
In the USA available at @twistedlily360 @fellowbarber @shenbeauty
Sample kindly provided by Frances Shoemaker at Esxence, Milan 2019, opinions my own.
Danu Seith-Fyr, Senior Contributor
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @danu_sf @abelodor @francesshoemack
Pink Iris Photo courtesy of Abel Odor
Thanks to the generosity of Frances Shoemaker and Abel Odor, we have a 15 ml bottle of Pink Iris for one registered reader anywhere in the world (register here if you have not already done so). Please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Abel Odor Pink Iris based on Danu’s review and where you live. Draw closes 6/26/2019
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume