Christopher Chong 2019 Photo by Jay Brooks©
“Creating a fragrance is like telling a story…” – Christopher Chong
Once in a rare while, a visionary finds his or her place in the world. Apple had Steve Jobs, Chanel had Karl Lagerfeld and Amouage had Christopher Chong. In a surprise announcement last month, Mr. Chong revealed that he would be leaving the renowned Omani perfume house after twelve years as Creative Director. In a press release from Amouage, Mr. Chong alluded to forthcoming opportunities, “This is not a swan song, but rather a short interlude to enable me to focus on new projects and new challenges, so watch this space. This is only the end of the beginning.” While he may describe his time at Amouage as merely the beginning, he, no doubt, reached the heart notes.
His vision for Amouage was emotional, contemplative and cerebral, forged through creative parallels in music, history and thought. His success was predicated on his unique ability to liquefy the human condition. As such, I once called him the Sigmund Freud of perfumery. In the words of Freud himself, “Love and work are the cornerstones of our humanness.” Seems like the perfect place to begin a celebration, a reflection on the man himself, the man with the vision for an art form invisible.
Christopher Chong 2012
“My creative process is very personal,” Mr. Chong said in a 2011 interview with CaFleureBon, “It begins with a feeling and then this feeling is elaborated into a story. I am inspired by everything around me.” One could turn to numerous interviews Mr. Chong gave over the years for a glimpse into his history and his heart. A better idea, I humbly recommend, would be to revisit the fruits of his labor, the fragrances themselves. Each spray tells a story; each spray tells his story.
Jubilation XXV and 25 (2008): Upon assuming the creative helm of Amouage in 2007, Christopher Chong’s first release was the pair of fragrances launched to commemorate the brand’s 25th anniversary. Created in partnership with master perfumers Bertrand Duchaufour and Lucas Sieuzac, both the masculine and feminine variations of Jubilation evoke the texture and colors of a lush, crimson theatre curtain trimmed in gold. And this curtain is rising. The masculine variation, Jubilation XXV, incorporates the scent profile for which Amouage would come to be known: the “Amouade” of silver frankincense, ambergris and myrrh. The crimson and gold I perceive comes from the top and mid-notes of blackberry, cinnamon and honey. Jubilation XXV was my wedding day scent and never fails to evoke fond memories. The feminine counterpart, Jubilation 25, gives a nod to a bygone era of perfumery while remaining thoroughly contemporary. This red-carpet stunner is a celebration of one’s achievements, the factors which brought someone to a point in history and a celebration of what’s ahead. This curtain doesn’t close.
Amouage Memoir Man
Memoir Man (2010): One of my all-time favorite fragrances, I used to think of Memoir (Man) as an olfactive journey through a haunted forest—while wearing a tuxedo. Working with Perfumer Karine Vinchon Spehner, the composition brilliantly juxtaposes the shrouded greenery of wormwood, absinth, basil and mint against the traditionally-formal and fougeric components of lavender, oakmoss, tobacco and sandalwood. More than formal, more than special, Memoir is beautifully melancholic. Those familiar with the Japanese art and philosophy of Wabi-Sabi will no doubt appreciate Memoir’s understated elegance. The timeless wisdom of Wabi-Sabi teaches us that nothing lasts and nothing is finished. Memoir is for those who find beauty in impermanence, in shifting balance, in an unpaved road.
Amouage Beloved (2013): For the creation of Beloved Man and Beloved Woman, Christopher Chong found inspiration in the 1980 film “Somewhere in Time.” Working with perfumers Bernard Ellena on the feminine version of Beloved and with Alexandra Carlin and Emilie Copperman on the masculine, both compositions explore the themes of love and longing, time and rapture. Utterly evocative, the abstract nature of the fragrances allow for a unique, personalized interpretation of its themes. When I reviewed Beloved Man for CaFleureBon in 2013, I chose to forgo listing the note breakdown and instead—to better illustrate the scent profile—chose a quote from the movie: “I can almost see him now before me. What would I say to him if he were really here? ‘Forgive me. I have never known this feeling. I have lived without it all my life. Is it any wonder, then, I failed to recognize you?’”
Christopher Chong Shooting Figment video in Barcelona 2017
Christopher Chong’s contributions to Amouage were vast, profound and abiding. In a statement released upon his departure, Mr. Chong reflected, “I leave with enormous and enduring gratitude. I am grateful to everyone who believed in me.” Mr. Chong, on behalf of all of us at CaFleureBon, I’m confident in saying that we believed in you; we believe in you. The gratitude—enormous and enduring—is ours. We wish you continued success and the best of everything. The curtain is still up and we can’t wait to see what’s next.
–Michael Devine, Guest Contributor
Editor’s Note: Each link below is to a review by a CaFleureBon writer or an interview, Do you have a favorite Amouage perfume from Christopher Chong? Please leave a comment wishing Mr. Chong the best!
Christopher Chong’s Catalogue with Amouage:
Lyric – 2008
Epic – 2009
Honour – 2011
Interlude – 2012
Beloved Woman – 2012
Beloved Man – 2013
Fate – 2013
Sunshine Woman – 2014
Journey – 2014
Sunshine Man – 2015
Bracken Man – 2016
Bracken Woman – 2016
Myths – 2016
Beach Hut Man – 2017
Figment – 2017
Beach Hut Woman – 2018
Imitation – 2018
Reflection– 2018
Portrayal – 2019
The Library Collection:
OPUS IV – 2010
OPUS IX – 2015
OPUS V– 2011
OPUS VI – 2012
OPUS VII – 2013
OPUS VIII – 2014
OPUS X – 2016
OPUS XI – 2018
The Secret Garden Collection
Blossom Love – 2017
Lilac Love – 2016
Love Tuberose – 2018