Hendley Perfumes Untitled Review (Hans Hendley) + THE MEANS TO A MEANING Review

 

 

Hans hendley Untitled Review

dana-  Untitled (look up)

I always wondered what the air was like that day when some smart ‘un put feather to paper and started writing about what I’m doing now (more specifically, thinking, imagining, wording, translating, picking letters, and typing as I go). Did they wake well? Did they have a hearty breakfast? A bathroom break? A caretaker, perhaps, to wash their mouths and wrap their heavy temples with herbal concoctions to elevate the inner self? Did their slumber have a name?

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Ala Ebtekar- Thirty-six Views of the Moon, 2019. Photo by dana©

Did they rise late? Or early enough that the moon was still in the sky, low and pregnant and seemingly touchable? Did they look at it and wonder what we all do: “how many other people looked at this and thought the thoughts I’m thinking now?”?

Hendley Perfumes Untitled review

Bruce Conner-  Untitled- Mandala. 1965. Photo by dana©

Or did they roll out of bed and started musing on the depths of humors and the alchemy of the soul, only to then stare into a blank page, deep in a writer-philosopher’s block?

Seriously, WHO starts their day with theories of the word?

 

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Daniel Clowes-  Untitled. 1992. Photo by dana

Why, I’m glad you asked. Saussure, that’s who (Swiss, somber, smart, solitary, likes dogs and Sanskrit; you can call him Ferdie). About 100 years ago, Ferdie revolutionized linguistics and went on to be the most quoted person who didn’t publish much while alive- at least for a while. I won’t bore you with Saussure’s theoretical reconstructions of the Proto-Indo-European language vocalic system, or the ways he influenced both Levi-Strauss’ theory of myths and Chomsky’s transformational grammar- we can talk about those some other time.

 

David Ireland- A variation on 79, side to side passes of a dumbball, dedicated to the memory of John Cag 1912-1992. 1993. Photo by dana

Semiology is part of semiotics and together they define, in short, the elements of communication. We need some thing (like, say, a chair, or a phenomena) that is easy to perceive; we need some understanding of what it is (a mental image of its significance- something to sit on); we need a name for it (saying “chair” or a signing it are both acceptable as long as they’re alway and only used for, well, a chair). And, if we are trying to communicate at a symbolic level, we—of course—need symbols (image/icon of the chair, or a string of letters/signs that are used solely to signify a chair).

 

Hans hendley Hendley Perfumes Untitled review

Hank Willis Thomas  Untitled; Alfred Yaghobzadeh- Tearing down the Berlin Wall at Brandemburg Gate. Photo by dana

Complicated?

Add to this the intention (do I really want to make you understand? And do you really want to see what I have to say?), motivation (why in the world am I talking about chairs now, anyway??), and interference (if “chair” is slang for something else; if I’m drawing and you can’t see or the phone signal is poor and you can’t hear me; if we don’t both speak the same language) and what you get is a highly abstract—but highly organized—notion of how we go from something palpable I see (a chair) to you having a very clear picture, in you head, of the object I am talking about.

 

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Richard Prince Photo by dana

In art, luckily, the process is jumbled and (roughly) goes the other way around: to our delight, the creator starts with a story they look to materialize, then package, then name; when naming doesn’t happen or is, in and of itself, a new story, the communication becomes circular and the meaning, well, becomes our job to create. Hans Hendley of Hendley Perfumes threads,  a fine such line between object, subject, and significance in many of the fragrances he creates—and Hendley Perfumes Untitled is, literally, an impeccable exercise in olfactory semiotics.

Hendley Perfumes Untitled

 Hendley Perfumes Untitled Courtesy of Hans

Neutral, unequivocal, and always consistent with itself, Hendley Perfumes Untitled is one of the few fragrances I know that would, indeed, suffer from being indicted any other (more descriptive) name.  It opens with a condensed blast of raw cedar-like accords which morph quickly into powdery woods, only to translate clearly into a clean, carroty, honest orris; at this stage, the fragrance is sparkling and alive, like words before they find their sentence. The second phase, textural, is aromatic: warm greens settle in, arranging themselves in a topic: clary sage; bits of bay; some white tea; vague artemisia, tobacco flowers, and almondy whiffs. Lastly, an airy ambrette joins a creamy vetiver to finally provide the meaning—and so they hum, together, universal, luminous, and as free as an open-ended title.

Official notes: sandalwood, musk, iris, vetiver

Disclaimer: Sample of Hendley Perfumes Untitled kindly provided by Hans Hendley. My opinions are my own.

dana sandu, Contributor

Hans hendley of Hendley Perfumes

Hans Hendley via Hans

Editor’s Note:  CaFleureBon was one of the first sites to take notice of Hans Handley in 2014. You can read his Profiles in American Perfumery here.  Sr. Editor Gail Gross awarded Blond a best of 2018 award. Michelyn awarded Hans a Rising Star award in 2016  and Amora was one of her best of scent 2016. Hans has also been part of our perfumer’s workshop series “Perfume Organs”.Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Hendley Perfumes Untitled

Thanks to the generosity of Hans Hendley we have a 9 ml travel spray of Untitled for one registered reader anywhere in the world

OR

endley Perfumes Amora, Blond, Fume, Mown, Rosenthal & Untitled reviews

(photo via Hans)

Hendley Perfumes discovery set which includes 1.5 ml sprayers of Amora, Blond, Fume, Mown, Rosenthal & Untitled (photo via Hans)

To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest in Hendley Perfumes Untitled based on dana’s review,  if you would like to win the 9 ml Untitled or the Discovery set and where you live. Draw ends 6/10/2019

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon   @Hendleyperfumes    @a_nose_knows

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Çafleurebon and use our  blog feed … or  your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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39 comments

  • I liked the fact that, judging both by the choice of the name, and also from Dana’s description, this perfume does not intend to classify itself as *something* (at least if I understood right, which I am not sure, given the late hour). But I appreciate the fact this does NOT seem to be an evocative, plastic or even “immaterially” material perfume. We often find colors in the name of a perfume, or notes, or nouns, or adjectives (descriptive ones, that is). Well, that doesn’t happen here and I find that to be very brave. A perfumer to throw their creation in a vortex of brilliant, ever growing amount of perfumes, some “mysterious”, some “sunny”, some “magnetic”, some “ethereal”…and some, or at least one…untitled. Cool! I would love the chance to try the samples. Thanks! From the EU.

  • The comment “An airy ambrette joins a creamy vetiver “ just sounds so darn intriguing. I’d love to have a 9 ml bottle. Southern California is my home.

  • Interesting article. I appreciate your description of Untitled. If lucky, I would love to try the Hans Hendley sample set. Thanks for another fabulous draw! USA

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m not sure that I could completely wrap my head around it, but it certainly was an intriguing review. I would love to try the Discovery set and

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m not sure that I could completely wrap my head around it, but it certainly was an intriguing review. I would love to try the Discovery set and

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m not sure that I could completely wrap my head around it, but it certainly was an intriguing review. I would love to try the Discovery set as I’ve never tried anything from this house. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • samppahoo says:

    Woods, aromatic notes, tobacco flowers and white tea… this really sounds like a hum. I’d love the discovery set. From the EU.

  • aurora_ru says:

    Thanks, Dana, I love such smart educative and conceptualy challenging reviews!! That is also why I love indie parfumerie – it makes new tracks in my mind, new associations, new images. Would love to win the discovery set of Hendley Perfumes. Thank you for the opportunity. I’m in Europe, EU

  • Harbinger says:

    I have been mildly interested in trying Henley Perfumes for awhile now but Dana’s review has me super excited now. I would love the discovery set. USA.

  • Most nose-catching for me in this review of untitled was the addition of the almond note. One of my favorite notes, I am interested in seeing how it interacts with other notes within the composition, namely the orris and powdery woods. I would be interested in the discovery set from this house.

  • Dana has one of the more unique ways of sparking interest into all sort of under the radar fragrances. To be honest ..it’s the first time I’ve heard about this house .. but boy, does the review sounds good 🙂

  • Untitled sounds really interesting from the review and the notes. I would like the sample set. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • patrick_348 says:

    Just like Salem, I like the idea of a fragrance that needs to be called Untitled because it doesn’t fit into any preexisting category or suit a preexisting signifier. The open-endedness is provocative. I have been excited by Hendley prefumes ever since I got a discovery set, so I would take the 9ml Untitled to experience his latest effort. I live in the US.

  • Dana, you are great. The way you add extra-information in a description is unique. I want to smell every perfume you write about.
    Knowing nothing about Hans, the first thing I thought when I red the name of the perfume was: pure marketing, like BZN in music of 80’s.
    But it is more, and I am curious about this perfume. Congratulation for the review! Thanks for the draw.

  • bigscoundrel says:

    You make Untitled sound so ambitious! I’d love the Discovery Set. I’m in the USA.

  • I never thought that in a perfume review someone will mention Saussure 🙂 I really loved it. And this comparison between a semiotic exercise and feeling a perfume… in fact with all these notes described by Dana will intrigue anyone to name somehow in his mind these perfumes and maybe to share these names with the others just by hasard…. that perfume who smells like ,,flowers and tobacco”…..

  • ,,the fragrance is sparkling and alive, like words before they find their sentence” is a stunning description of this perfume. And I was surprised by the mention of Ferdinand de Saussure with his theories. I would like to try the discovery set. I live in EU.

  • Another brilliant review from Dana! Her way to decipher perfume notes, ideas and concepts is rather unique. I’d love to superpose the description of what she calls a textural, aromatic phase, with my own perception of Untitled. Thanks for the draw, the 9ml bottle would be my choice. I’m from Romania.

  • Cesar Martínez Fernández says:

    If A Nose knows is the spark that lead me to this unknown brand to me, maybe their fragrances will be the fire, with which I will be able to see in the darkness of the sniffing things to come.I don’t what to know nothing about notes, ideas built around concepts, I want to hear the full soundtrack and the read the dialogues and only them watch the whole movie to fully understand the director’s offer.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    “…clean, carroty, honest orris.” I like where this is going. Or has gone. This sounds right up my alley. Thank you for this generous draw! I’ve been wanting to try HH for a while (especially Mown) so would love the sampler… thank you so much for introducing us to this new one! I’m in the USA

  • This was a very interesting review focused of the importance of communication with a focus on semiotics. I enjoyed the description of the clean, sparkling iris in Untitled, but I am interested in all of the perfumes. Therefore I would love to win the sample set. I live in the USA.

  • DulciusExAsperis says:

    I like the idea of orris as “honest,” that made me laugh. This sounds like a complicated yet unpretentious perfume, I’d like to try it. Plus anything with clary sage piques my interest. I’d like to try the Discovery Set, I’m in the USA.

  • Loredana O says:

    This is the first time when I heard about this house/perfumes, but based on Dana’s review my interest on these waked up…I would like to try discovery set.thanks
    I am from EU.

  • Nicoleta.Tomsa says:

    As always, its a treat to read Dana’s reviews! Besides the fact that I loved to see Chomsky mentioned in a perfume review (i laughed and thought of paraphrasing the famous noam chomsky interview with sahsa baron cohen as aly g, asking dana “soo, u know a lot of notes, don’t ya”) I swooned at the breakdown of the notes, analysed in such a cool way. The scent had me at the mention of “powdery woods”.I’d love to try the discovery set, I’m in Romania.

  • lilacdays says:

    I’ve tried Amora and Bourbon from Hendley. Absolutely head over heels with Bourbon and I can’t wait from them to re-stock it.

    After reading this essay on olfactory semiotics by the talented Dana, (at times it made me feel like a dumb idiot, but it was early morning when I’ve read it) I’m eager to try Untitled.

    I live in France, thanks for the draw.

  • Untitled l it is like you will name the fragrance, after first meet. Thanks Dana, interesting abordation. From Romania

  • The woods that will become aromatic sounds amazing to me. I think that this fragrance makes a lot of transitions and not stay linear which I like. I would like the travel set. I live in CA, USA.

  • Dana`s reviews are always so visual, sometimes she makes me wonder if there is something she cannot describe! I wanna win the 9 ml travel spray of Untitled, love the bottle! I live in Ro (EU).

  • I really like the description of Untitled. I enjoy sandalwood fragrances. I would choose the 9 ml spray of Untitled. It just sounds like such a soothing, airy, beautiful fragrance.
    I live in the US.

  • Like the description of this fragrance by Dana. Haven’t tried a Hendley Parfum so I’d like to go with the Discovery Set. Thanks for the giveaway, US

  • Great review with the introduction really setting the tone. I would love to try Untitled with you describing it morphing from woods, to an honest carrotty orris (my favourite kind) to warm greens and then a creamy Vetiver… it’s the combination I didn’t know I needed until now haha.

    Thanks for a great giveaway opportunity, I would like to enter for the 9ml Travel Spray of Untitled. I’m from Sydney, Australia and thanks again!

  • strangedim says:

    The description of the perfume, “neutral, unequivocal, and always consistent with itself” made me think this one might be perfect for me. And Dana’s introduction blew my mind. An extraordinary review that really made me want to try this one. Actually to try the house, the titled ones, too. Dreaming of trying the discovery set in Romania, EU.

  • Dorian Fischer says:

    Great review! First time that I heard of this indie-house, but I am definetely interested right now. Untitled sounds really good and I like the name-idea. I would love to win the discovery set. Greetings from Austria

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    Very interesting article. It is interesting to think about the sum of its parts meld to create something unique and without the name, it would seem the fragrance is left to the wearer’s interpretation. I have not tried any Hendley Perfumes and would love to win the discovery set. Thank you for the draw. I am in the US.

  • Thank you, Dana for the beautiful review. You paint with words. A true artist! I recently watched a review with Hans Hendley and found him to be a very creative thinker. I haven’t experienced any of his perfumes yet but they have been on my radar. I would love to try the discovery set. In the USA.

  • I own and love Rosenthal and Amora. They smell natural and high-quality. As an Iris lover I am looking forward to trying Untitled!

  • I love all the notes in this. Especially orris. The clary sage and white tea sound interesting as well. Would like the 9ml travel spray of Untitled. Thank you! US.

  • wildevoodoo says:

    Wow, Untitled does sound ambitious! I’m with the other commenters who mentioned loving how orris is described as carroty and honest. But beyond that, I enjoyed reading about the communicative aspects of the fragrance, which does seem like an untitled and utterly unclassifiable project, and being reminded of semiotics and other concepts from the linguistics class I took as a college freshman transported me back to the balmy winters and scorching summers of my time living in the American South. I would love to experience this fragrance for myself and would choose the 9ml Untitled. I am in the US 🙂