Véronique Bourgogne-Vatar of Plumages Parfums with Bertrand Duchaufour at Esxence 2019 photo courtesy of Plumages Parfums

One of the delightful discoveries at Esxence 2019 this year was the new house, Plumages Parfums: they are a perfect example of a smaller establishment utilizing renowned perfumers to fulfill a shared scented vision. In this case, Creative Director and Founder Véronique Bourgogne-Vatar has fused her ongoing passion for birds in flight and their magnificent feathers with perfume – and the results are singular as the concept itself.  Her choice of perfumers Bertrand Duchaufour and Anne-Sophie Behaghel feels intuitive.

Plumages Parfums  was  one of the best new brands at  Esxence 2019 -photo courtesy of Plumages Parfums

Their aromatic avian portraits are specific: in Blanc Ciel it is the white-winged dove’s presence we feel; in Joyeuses Tropiques, the macaw; Reflet Rose, the flamingo; Parade Du Soir – the peacock – until the nightbird appears, the owl who inspired Tapage Nocturne. A five bird paradise is ours for the asking – and like a string of baroque pearls, they each possess their own nacre and coloration.

Plumages Parfums Blanc Ciel (Bertrand Duchaufour): The lone feather of a dove – downy, shimmering, sleek – hovers weightlessly, swaying in the briny embrace of marine zephyrs. It is sun-warmed with mimosa, powdery with creamy almond facets and the slightest animalic caress. Laden with the tang of apple-pear, slightly salty with just a soupçon of bitterness, it floats. Blanc Ciel is vapor-light, tenacious and tender, faithful: after all, mourning doves mate for life and all doves are monogamous during their mating season. Notes: nashi accord, ambrette, mimosa, iris, sandalwood, white musk, vetiver

Plumages Parfums Joyeuses Tropiques (Bertrand Duchaufour) is aptly named, inspired by the macaw’s brilliant plumage. It’s a synaesthetic fruity floral chypre. M. Duchaufour has created jungle-y fragrances before and I adore them. For L’Artisan Parfumeur, he composed the ozonic marine and green Fleur de Liane (now discontinued), a woody tuberose with green mango, Nuit de Tubereuse.  Joyeuses Tropiques is a glory of intemperate hues, an homage to intrepid 19th century adventurers and smells entirely different from the others. Consider Jean Patou’s Colony but fruitier, less louchely animalic and more humid (anomalous, I realize) – and you will wander in the right direction: ebulliently floral, humidly verdant, drenched with tropical fruits. Pineapple chypres are NOT a dime a dozen; in lieu of oakmoss we are given a leafy accord which hints of the tiniest trace of sappy galbanum. Chocolate mirrors one facet of patchouli and melds imperceptibly with vetiver, anchoring Joyeuses Tropiques. It is a must-try even if you’re not the tropical type. Notes: pomegranate, guava, pineapple, mango, kumquat, passionfruit, tuberose, tropical leaf accord, Paraguayan petitgrain, chocolate, Haitian vetiver, patchouli

 

Plumages Parfums Reflet Rose (Anne-Sophie Behaghel): What does a flamingo’s reflection upon the waters at dusk smell like? In fevered dreams it might resemble a reticent peony-turned-fantasy via Mme. Behaghel’s sleight-of-hand – not your grandmother’s peony. Reflet Rose is an ultra-contemporary take on this beloved flower – tangy at first with the sting of grapefruit and pink pepper accompanied by an unfolding Bulgarian rose tincture sweetened with raspberry (Oh! The berry aspect of a rose..). Juniper is tonic, neroli, floral and harmonic and skews pink coral. An iris note cohorts with Ambrox to provide a ‘dying light’ effect: evening encroaches, and peony petals are shrouded in shadow. We move from pink to coral to periwinkle, with tones vacillating continuously throughout the development. Reflet Rose is poetic AND modern. Notes: grapefruit, baies roses, Bulgarian rose alcoholate, raspberry, juniper berry, neroli, violet, Ambrox

Plumages Parfums Parade Du Soir (Bertrand Duchaufour): If it is orientalism one craves, the Indian peacock and M. Duchaufour’s love for this realm spares no measure of opulence. The peacock DOES take flight, for all our mental images of its earthbound iridescence – and lush as Parade Du Soir is, it has wings. Parade, indeed – a panoply of sumptuousness is laid bare before our nostrils, brimming with well-loved materials. Aldehydes, spices partner voluptuous ylang ylang and ripe plum; immortelle (also known as everlasting) assumes an edible aspect found in curry when in their company. Sandalwood contributes creaminess, while chocolate/patchouli earthy notes, balsamic vetiver and arid myrrh consummate this sophisticated fragrance. An aldehydic, spicy, woody, fruity, floral, oriental? Oh, yes. It’s wildly seductive without undue weight. Notes: cardamom, ginger, black pepper, pink pepper, aldehydes, ylang ylang, orchid accord, plum, iris, sandalwood, immortelle, chocolate, patchouli, vetiver, myrrh

Plumages Parfums Tapage Nocturne (Anne-Sophie Behaghel), a Nocturnal Disturbance. This is pure fun. The night owl is some chic party avian, by the scent of it – and all I can think of is the line from The Cars’ song: “I like the night life, baby…let’s go!” We will dance all night long in a tony boîte, reconstituting ourselves with whisky cola; it has a great kick to it and if you don’t overload the whisky, you’ll manage to stay the course. The occasional cigar wouldn’t hurt, either – it goes with that espresso somewhere near the wee hours to revive flagging spirits (sic). Tapage Nocturne is a brilliant study in high-spirited chiaroscuro. Mme. Behaghel has composed a lively effervescent oud which is equal parts light and shadow. Osmanthus headlines the marquee and all the supporting players are first-rate. Notes: lime, litsea cubeba (may chang), ginger, verbena, cinnamon, osmanthus, coffee, oud, rum, tobacco– whisky accord, guaiac wood

Samples provided by Plumages Parfums, thank you!  My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

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All art work via Plumage Parfums with collages by Michelyn

Thanks to the generosity of Véronique Bourgogne-Vatar we have one sample set of all five for one registered reader (register here if you have not already done so) in the US, EU or Canada. Please leave a comment relaying what appeals to you about Plumages Parfums, which one (s) you may like based on Ida’s review, and where you live. Draw closes 6/2/2019

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.