Maxfield Parrish©

“I will wade out till my thighs are steeped in burn-ing flowers

I will take the sun in my mouth and leap into the ripe air

Alive with closed eyes to dash against darkness in the sleeping curves of my body

Shall enter fingers of smooth mastery with chasteness of sea-girls

Will I complete the mystery of my flesh I will rise

After a thousand years lipping flowers

And set my teeth in the silver of the moon.” ~  Crepuscule by e.e.cummings

   

Maxfield Parrish

NOW we have your attention. Nothing like a bit of native New England Cantabrigian poet  e.e.cummings to whet the carnal appetite. The deliciously seedy ravings of Charles Baudelaire in his Fleurs du Mal (Flowers of Evil) are far from independent artist/parfumeur Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s intention –  and when imagining a gourmand retro-fougère which probes that violet hour bridging daylight and night’s dark cloak, these verses felt just right. Especially the “thighs are steeped in burning flowers” bit…

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes

Envisioning lavender with fresh eyes is no simple task, as I’ve noted previously. It’s so dependent upon the variety, terroir (much like wine), dilution, co-conspirators. Easy enough to gourmandize it – materials such as vanilla, tonka, benzoin enjoy coupling with her and they create lovable perfumes in that process. Sometimes lavender screams green. She can present herself as a medically credible entity as well, which may feel too astringent and strident if not tempered – understandably so, as lavender is a natural disinfectant and is still being used in botanically-based deodorizing/cleaning products. I first encountered it industrially in a deodorizing spray (in a nursing home of all places) during my teens, which makes that donkey’s years ago. To birth a mystery, unleash twilight’s veiled beauty in a swirl of tobacco tendrils so that one’s experience is inimitably sensuous and playful… Well. That is something else entirely.

For many of us, that which is intensely sensual may prove calming, comforting even. Imagine countless hues of rose and violet, downy and plush – underpinned with voluptuous subtext. They drape across the heavens, move swiftly and soundlessly; we are helpless to make them linger. If you could bottle this moment, what would it smell like (the beloved Guerlain L’Heure Bleue notwithstanding)? Dawn’s vision resists the heliotropin pull, anisic orange blossom muskiness of Guerlain; instead, she draws us into a faintly hookah-redolent tobacco laced with blackberry in lieu of traditional stone fruit, the maple-lushness of immortelle.

The mauves, periwinkles and lilacs of our imaginings are fleshed out by violet itself, silvery ionones of orris, and both lavenders: Seville for its singular cognac notes married to a leathery, dried-fruit quality (there’s the hookah!), and French for its verdant depth of floral herbalcy. A touch of rose (the universal playmate), the indolic luminosity of jasmine grandiflorum for balance (it harmonizes with beeswax!). Coumarinic, hay-like warmth is evoked by liatrix (deertongue), tonka, and the lavender which fougères traditionally include. Supplemental sweet spice of benzoin, the rich leatheriness of Tolu balsam and woody vanilla contribute their lovely voices, underscored by a sumptuous sandalwood and oakmoss for enduring depth.

Maxifeld Parrish © digitalized by Michelyn

DSH Perfumes Au Crépuscule de Lavande smells innovative yet familiar in the most beautiful way; as soon as I saw that it was available I purchased some pronto. Having worn it for awhile from my tiny sample, I knew that it was love. It has certainly been appreciated by my familiars, who find it delectable (including family and friends).

Notes: aldehydes, bergamot, blackberry, sugar cube accord, French lavender, Seville lavender, Damask rose absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, wood violet, orris concrete, tobacco absolute, immortelle, liatrix, Siam benzoin, Tolu balsam, tonka bean absolute, vanilla absolute, brown oakmoss, Australian sandalwood, French beeswax

My sample was provided by the perfumer – I subsequently bought more.  Brava, Dawn, and many thanks. My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief with Ida (all art Maxfield Parrish from the 1920s unless otherwise noted)

DSH Perfumes Au Crepuscules de Lavande  courtesy of @dshperfumes

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz we have a draw for a Voile de Parfum pen 10 ml of DSH Perfumes Au Crépuscule de Lavande for one registered reader worldwide. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Do you have a review or an article you love from Ida Meister.  Leave that in your comment. Happy Birthday dear Ida (who shares a birthday with Jean Claude Ellena, Jean Laporte of L’Artisan Parfumeur and Billie Holiday). Draw closes 4/10/2019

 Message from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz:

Happy fragrant Birthday, Ida!  May you have copious furry snuggles, rapturous envelopings of all of your favorite aromas, much comfort, good health, and more time than ever with all of your lovies.I know that this birthday wish will invite everyone around the world to join in and we’ll all be thinking of you (and toasting to the beauty that you) together as one.

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