David Seth Moltz and his wife Kavi Durga via Instagram at their new free standing boutique in NYC at 251 Mulberry Street
Perfumer David Seth Moltz of D.S.and Durga is fearless; it’s what delineates his line of perfumes as inimitable. Whether his Muse be geographic, lyric, musical, fueled by legend and intensely atmospheric or the outcropping of personal experience – David is true to his inner voice and a fountainhead of inspiration which has as many rivulets as Medusa sports snakes. I’ve enjoyed delving into David’s fragrant body of work over the years; his most recent composition entitled simply “D.S.” is a heady homage to his wife Kavi’s homeland, India and the counterpart to his 2017 composition “Durga”. The centuries-old attar tradition is revisited via a precious palette which modern day perfumers have at their disposal (none of them bon marché, it must be noted) .D.S. and Durga D.S. is an audacious multi-hued invocation to plenitude and the gods who favor it.
D.S. and Durga D.S.via @dsanddurgaperfumes Instagram
Lascivious florals, sacred woods, costly pistils which burnish all of the above are couched in hibiscus seeds and the grass of meditation. Every single aspect of D.S. and Durga D.S. is evocative of India and regions associated with it; in fact, it is composed of native materials, period.
Lakshmi arising from the rose via Wikipedia
If you chose the ‘least Indian’ constituent in this perfume, the damask rose – the truth is that oral tradition cites discussion between the gods Brahma and Vishnu regarding which flower was more beautiful, the lotus or the rose? Brahma favored lotus (it is employed in D.S. as well) and Vishnu, rose. It’s said that Lakshmi, Vishnu’s consort – was created from the rose. Other legends remark that after viewing the arbor of fragrant roses in Vishnu’s celestial garden, Brahma conceded to the rose’s supremacy. Any way you look at it, roses are revered and have been cultivated in India for thousands of years.
Lotus by TSF©
Indolent blossoms fill the warm, humid environment: an embarrassment of gardenia, the intoxication of frangipani both sweet and indolic in their ripeness. Lotus is spicy, powdery with animalic fruity undertones; rose smoothes and soothes as only she can. Saffron is intimately associated with Kashmir, considered more valuable than gold and found in every meal integral to Kashmiri cuisine. In perfumery it glows, adding a beautiful metallic astringency which is powdery, floral and leathery in nature.
Vishnu's navel erupted Brahma via flickr
Agarwood (oud) is anticipated, trailing its complex scent profile and partnered by buttery sandalwood. The remaining indigenous vetiver and ambrette contribute mellifluous tones: grassy, fresh and earthy with just a wisp of smokiness; muskily floral with notes of horse barn, suede, a suggestion of nuts and herb.
photo courtesy of D.S and Durga
The outcome might feel overwhelming to those unaccustomed to such an exuberant perfume, as it teems with life and movement. I perceive this within a cultural context. We are shaped by our biases, preferences, the familiarity which we find comforting, and upon first encounter one will likely be polarized. I suggest patience, the ability to sit with D.S. awhile, several samplings to let it unfold if you are uncertain. It feels utterly authentic, a snapshot captured in flacon form. That photograph lingers in treasured memory.
Notes: frangipani, gardenia,Kashmiri saffron, yellow lotus, damask rose absolute, agarwood, Sri Lankan sandalwood, vetiver,musk ambrette
Many thanks to D.S. and Durga for my sample! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Art Director: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
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Collage of Stills from D.S and Durga D.S. inspirational video by Michelyn
Thanks to the generosity of D.S. and Durga, we have a draw for 10 ml travel spray of of D.S. for a registered reader in the USA ONLY. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Ida’s review, and if you have a favorite D.S. and Durga fragrance. Draw closes 3/4/2019
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