A Young Emir Studying, 1878 by Osman Hamdi Bey©

Western culture has always been fascinated by the Far East which have fostered many trends in art and design (Chinoise, Japonaise, Tribal Bohemian). The past 200 years have reflected our interest and passion for anything Oriental. For a long time our thoughts and feelings for Orientalism in design and culture were based on what we DIDN’T know, but what we could imagine the “mystery of the East” represented. Jet travel changed all that in the 1960’s and the web and internet access now thankfully brings the world to our smartphones, iPads, and laptops and we are for the most part smarter, more informed and globally astute by being connected. Fragrance has long acted as a cultural mirror for the Far East, but until recently it was mostly the Caucasian “fantasy/idea” of distant lands and fragrances; Guerlain’s Mitsouko (Japan), Shalimar (India) Chanel’s Coromandel (Chinese lacquer), or Volnay’s Ambre De Siam (Thailand) for example.

Kow Leong Kiang You & Me©

In the past few years the contemporary perfume market has been blessed with Asian born and/or based perfumers creating scents that reflect Asian heritage and beauty; often interpreting Far Eastern ideals and beauty using fragrance materials specific to their background and birth country. Parfum Dusita's (Pissara Umavijani-Thailand) Erewan & Fleur De Lalita, Tomoo Inaba’s (Japan) work for Zoologist (Nightingale, Moth) and Beau Kwan Perfumes (Tuberai), Shyamala Maisondieu’s (Malaysia) extraordinary body of work for Coach, Tom Ford, and Lancôme, and of course Christopher Chong of Amouage (Hong Kong) among others.

Josh Lee of Josh Lee Fragrances

Also from Malaysia is Josh Lee of Josh Lee Fragrances. For the past six years Mr. Lee has been fragrantically decoding the scents and feelings of his homeland using ideas and notes that best represent Malaysias’ fascinating mix of Asian cultures and customs. Interested in scent from a young age, and remembering the smells of his parents’ small bakery in Penang, Josh is fervently committed to the idea of preserving “heritage through scent”. After completing studies at the prestigious perfumery institute ISIPCA in Versailles France, Mr. Lee returned to Malaysia and opened Josh Lee Fragrances.  “I’m a dreamer who is passionate about scent and will always pick up scents and aromas around me from flowers to food wherever I go or travel to.  All my fragrances are reflections of my life’s story; the places I have been and the cultures I have immersed myself in.” -Josh Lee

Here are two of his perfumes which perfectly capture the zeitgeist and emotional connection of modern-day Malaysia:

 George Town in Polu Penang Penang Musuem©

“In the golden days of Colonial Penang, a merchant was sitting at the jetty of George Town while holding a cup of bergamot tea at dawn. While sipping the bergamot tea as it slowly diffused its refreshing and calming aroma, he looked out to the sea and watched the ships docking at port. The cold morning air fused with the salty smell of the sea water slowly accompanied him as he made his way to the busy trading grounds. As he inspected goods the fragrance of pungent spices mingled with the heady scents of local flowers as well as the delicious aroma wafting out of the kitchens in the vicinity, creating an intoxicating melody of fragrances. To him, this was the quintessential scent of George Town.”-Josh Lee Fragrances

Kuen Stephanie©

Named for one of Malaysia’s oldest trading ports, Josh Lee Fragrances George Town exudes the bright and vibrant melting pot vibe of Penang Island. A perfect foil to the heat of summer, George Town opens with a sharp hit of Earl Grey tea, full of spicy bitter tannins and wisps of bergamot. The spices appear one after another which remind me of walking with my mother through an herb shop in San Francisco’s Chinatown; the air redolent of unusual and comforting scents from faraway places with a background aroma that’s both teak and mahogany wood, lashed with camphor. The floral notes sweeten but never overwhelm, and through it all is a salty aquatic reminding you that the ocean is never far away. The Jus itself is an electric blue which perfectly matches the color of the water off the coast of Penang. Notes: Bergamot, green tea, cardamom, star anise, nutmeg, cinnamon, sea water accord, rose, hibiscus, sandalwood, musk, patchouli

Yuen Chee Ling©

Josh Lee Fragrances Nyonya: Nyonya is the word used to describe Female Straits-Chinese descendants, a Malay/Chinese/Indonesian honorific used to refer to a “foreign married lady” from the old Portuguese word for lady (donha). Nyonya the perfume perfectly captures the feminine ideal through light-as-air floralcy backed by aromatic woods and musk. Don’t let the notes list scare you, this EdT is as spacious and transparent as a Jean-Claude Ellena creation, never weighty and wears as easily and lightly as a lace Kebaya; those gorgeous sheer blouses that are traditional garb for Malaysian and Indonesian women. Another perfect fit for warmer weather, Nyonya is light enough to be office friendly and striking enough for evening as well. Notes: Bergamot, neroli, peony, rose, jasmine, champaca, lotus blossom, orchid accord, musk, cedar, sandalwood

Note: Josh Lee Fragrances are available for purchase from their website they are quite reasonable (approx. $50.00 per 50 ml. bottle) and shipping (approx. $15.00) from Malaysia can take a few weeks.

Disclosure: The perfume and opinions are my own.

–Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor

-Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief 

Josh Lee Fragrances George Town and Nyona by Robert H

Thanks to Robert H., we have one carded sample set of Josh Lee Fragrances for one registered reader in the USA, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know if Josh Lee Fragrances is a new collection   for you and which you might prefer George Town or Nonya.

Draw close 7/18/2018

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