Alberto III Pio, Prince of Carpi, attr. to Bernardino Losch©
Perfume can move the heart simply as a collection of notes, artfully entwined; as the recreation of a specific smell; as an abstract idea conveyed by aromachemicals. Or it can tell a tale. Perfumers may use the trajectory of perfume like a narrative arc, to coax memories and stories from flacons of scent. Italian perfumer Antonio Alessandria created Gattopardo in 2017 in homage to the great twentieth century novel by Giuseppe di Lampedusa, Il Gattopardo (The Leopard,1958) – a book I count among my favourites. The perfume magically captures key elements of the novel – the Prince’s study, a feast at the novel’s heart, the sense of tradition and power that is vanishing.
Antonio Alessandria ©
Opening Gattopardo is the turn of an olfactory page, landing in the Prince’s library. The aroma that releases is the unmistakable smell of expensive whiskey: spiritous, medicinal, smoky. Within moments, the whiskey complicates, becomes richer, darker, as polished cedar comes up beneath it. The aromas of privilege, of learning, of the material – this is the Prince’s signature. The timeworn smell of wood panels and odor of oiled leather permeates the walls as he wearily swirls his crystal tumbler and gazes at his frescoed ceiling.
Alain Delon and Claudia Cardinale in the feast scene in Il Gattopardo©
The study door left ajar, the receding smells of whiskey and books trailing into the brilliantly lit dining room. The floral smell of beeswax edges in from the candles and the stupendous dish at the center of the feast: “the burnished gold of the crusts, the fragrance of sugar and cinnamon they exuded … a spice-laden haze …” Using a combination of hazelnut, almond and a dusting of cocoa and joining them with the pastryish smell of iris, Alessandria brilliantly conveys the essence of this dish (which has since been recreated in high-end Italian kitchens) while displaying a fine control that never allows the composition to veer into foody territory.
Burt Lancaster as Don Fabrizio Corbera, Prince of Salina in The Leopard (1963) by Luchino Visconti
Throughout this second stage, the Prince’s signature is still very present. The whiskey and wood notes stay forward while allowing the gourmand notes to emerge slowly and distinctly. But amber and benzoin begin to add a resinous, sweet roundness that undercuts the masculine notes of the opening, keeping Gattopardo keenly balanced between masculine and feminine.
Photo by Ian Webb©
As Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo dries down, earthy patchouli and peppery geranium hint at the encroaching countryside just beyond the palace windows that soon will be master here. Alessandria’s spectacularly creative tribute makes it possible for a few hours to visit with Lampedusa’s world-weary hero for a while before Gattopardo, like the Prince’s world, fades from power.
Notes: Bergamot, fig, whisky, geranium, iris, benzoin, hazelnut, almond, cocoa, beeswax, amber, patchouli, cedarwood, musk.
Disclaimer: Sample of Gattopardo kindly provided by Antonio Alessandria at Exsence. My opinions are my own.
–Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo ©
Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo is not yet available on the company website, but, thanks to the generosity of Antonio Alessandria, we have a we have a travel sized 8 ml bottle of Gattopardo (Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo received a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent Award here).
or
a complete sample set (Gattopardo, Nacre Blanche, Noir Obscur, Eperdument, Nuit Rouge and Fleurs et Flammes) for five registered readers in the EU, USA and Canada. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Gattopardo based on Lauryn’s review, which you would like to win and where you live. Draw closes 6/10/2018
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