Pierre Balmain on the phone (1914-1982) Getty
Pierre Balmain notes in his autobiography My Years and Seasons – that “My friend, Germaine Cellier, had just invented a perfume for me which evoked the best kind of elegance of which I wanted to be the harbinger. I named it Élysées 64-83, my first telephone number.”
Rene Gruau
How might any perfume veneratrix possessed of a soul possibly resist? Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83 is rare and costly as hen’s teeth and just as difficult to come by: when I eventually found some I quickly caved despite many sound reservations. As an overtly ardent admirer of All Things Cellier the siren song was not to be denied. I’m eager to explore this perfume with you and share a bit of what I have: olfactory education is sublime in and of itself – with the added benefit that it’s never too early to hone our fifth sense and thus help stave off dementia (loss of olfactory acuity is one of the first indicators of Alzheimer’s).
Germaine Cellier
It appears that Madame Cellier was truly “the nose with a flair for formula” according to her niece Martine Azoulai, who pondered the origins of her celebrated aunt’s perfumes’ names. The only certainty was that of Élysées 64-83, the infamous phone exchange of Pierre Balmain’s first Parisian boutique. I’ve noted a touch of controversy regarding the date of its release: The Perfume Society cites the year as 1937, while all other sources name 1946. My suspicion is that it may have been initially created pre-WWII and more widely distributed later on. The pre-war years were challenging indeed and many felt the reverberation of the winds of change fast upon their heels.
How does one characterize Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83, this rare fragrance? Is it floral/woody/musky? Fougère with benefits? Floral amber animalic? Aldehydic floral? Aldehydic chypre? There are quite a few potential classifications. I’m leaving it to you to determine which you feel suits best. Parfum Extraordinairement Raffiné. That’s my personal assessment: I’ll stick by it resolutely.
Vintage Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83 ad
Elegant aldehydes shimmer, disperse and lift herbaceously floral humble chamomile, tickled by what was to become a Cellier byword – galbanum the greenly resinous, not overdosed in this perfume. I adore each component. The opening, even after so many years lovingly-stored and well-sealed – is utterly delicious. Can you flout wild flowers (whatever that might infer)? I’m not capable. They enfold peerless jasmine, geranium, rose and vegetal/floral lavender. We haven’t even touched upon the aromatic foundation yet, which is intricate as a perfumed labyrinth. Élysées 64-83’s fragrant spine is luxurious, replete with the stuff of dreams: earthy patchouli, balsamic vetiver, sibylline labdanum, boozy bittersweet anisic wormwood, tenacious silvery/woody orris, inky oakmoss (pre-IFRA!), authentic saline/rosy steadfast ambergris, and what is highly likely to be true civet bundled in vanilla, musks (heavenly nitro musks of yore?), and leathery tones.
Balmain fashion via 1955
What a glorious composition! Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83 hails from an era in which one anticipated experiencing a sensual journey before falling into the lingering luscious abyss of studied shadow where they longed to dally indefinitely. Once applied to flesh and closely observed, you can feel the germination of Cellier’s genius (you won’t catch me using that appellation often; I tend to cringe first). Within each drop abides her passion for magnificent florals, the marriage of unlikely materials (artemisia and ambergris?), her love of leather and earthy innuendo. No single aromatic participant sticks out like a sore thumb or diva: individualism lovingly coexists with a rounded sense of completion which is immensely satisfying. Linearity is nonexistent. Notes: aldehydes, chamomile, galbanum, wild flowers, jasmine, geranium, rose, lavender, patchouli, vetiver, labdanum, wormwood, ambergris, orris, oakmoss, civet, vanilla, musk, leather
Perfume from my private collection. My nose is my own…
-Ida Meister, Senior Editor
~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief
This is Ida's 4.oz flacon of Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83©
I am delighted to share a 4 ml. glass decant of Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83 (very rare) with one registered reader anywhere in the world. Please be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review of Pierre Balmain Élysées 64-83 and where you live. Draw closes 4/20/208
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