In January 2010, I was searching perfumers based out of San Francisco, when I came across Perfumer Yosh Han. Her Vibrational Perfumery Workshop was scheduled to occur in two weeks so I called to reserve my space. In this workshop one would smell essences, explore perfume and aromatherapy, and compose, design and create one’s own fragrance.  

 

 

As all of the participants were creating their fragrances, Yosh pulled out a small vial of the essential oil, choya loban, which is derived from frankincense. Choya loban is used mainly as a deep smoky, resinous, leathery base note.  It was a note that she expected I would love and a small amount was added to my creation.  Every time I wore my personalized fragrance my nose would look forward to picking out the choya loban behind the blend of aloe vera, cucumber, pomegranate, carnation, oak moss and teak.  I kept thinking, I should have added more. Choya loban’s smokiness cast a spell on me and set up housekeeping in my subconscious. There was an aromatherapeutic effect… simply put it haunted me and I craved more.

 

Choya loban attar

Since that time I have both attended and assisted Yosh with several other workshops. Ginger Ciao, White Flowers and Omniscent have made it into my fragrance collection, but none of those satisfied my choya loban craving.  It would not be until December 2010, when my longing would be satisfied with the release of Sombre Negra. My anticipation only increased when the description below was released on the YOSH website:

“Yosh Han creates vibrational perfumes, based on moods, personalities and intuition. The latest in her fragrant repertoire is called Sombre Negra, black shadow — a foray into the obscure subconscious. Once lodged, it lingers and awakens distant memories or possibly fears of the unknown. The fragrance is at once omnipresent but ghostly, casting doubt and arousing intrigue. The emotional intensity of patchouli, vetiver and choya loban unearth deep mushroom notes, revealing sweet but unsentimental undertones of opoponax and tobacco. The diffused smokiness of pink and black pepper mingles with dry teak and cypress leaving an ephemeral illusion.”

 

 

Sombre Negra notes include:

Patchouli, Teak, Vetiver, Tabacco, Choya loban, Opoponox, Davana, Cypress, Mushroom, Pink pepper, Black pepper and Oak moss.

All I could see were the words “choya loban”. Once I heard it was available I immediately called Luckyscent to order my bottle. I was informed that I was the first to purchase a bottle.

 

 

Each time I wear this beautifully crafted creation, I am thrown back to the first time I smelled choya loban.  It was like finding your lost childhood blanket or sitting around a campfire with friends. The scent wraps around you in a cocoon of warmth and confidence while still carrying an air of mystery and intrigue about what is in the dark outside the campfire ring.

When wearing Sombre Negra you may think “is this fragrance working in reverse?” It is beautifully crafted in a way so that it appears the base notes are first and the traditional top notes develop during the warm down. At first, it is the earthy aromas ascending off my skin; patchouli, vetiver, mushroom  and tobacco.  Between the earthiness of the beginning and the spicy pepper notes, Sombre Negra is balanced with a little sweetness from the oppoponax and davana. I enjoy peppery notes in my fragrances but pepper notes disappear on my skin within minutes. It is a nice surprise that the pink and black pepper notes lasted all day.  This fragrance wears like a second skin.

 

There is nothing dark about this fragrance except the name and the color.

Sombre Negra will awaken distant memories and will put you into a state of wonderment. Sombre Negra is  great for any occasion and I could see it being worn by club kids to fashionistas. The video “Anatomy of Change” for Thierry Mugler featuring music by Lady Gaga hits the mark.

Sombre Negra has excellent longevity and modest sillage.

It is a limited release and available exclusively at www.luckyscent.com . 

 

Photo credits:

Frida Kahlo Lover's Embrace (from the San Francisco Museum of Art)

Choya loban attar: www.lalaessentialoils.com

Sombre Negra (google images: fragrantica.com /luckyscent.com)

camp fire: (google images: ladies-bottle.blogspot.com)

  – Mario T. Gomez, Contributor

Courtesy of YOSH  we have two 5mL samples of Sombre Negra to give away. Leave a comment on that note or accord which you couldn't get enough of after you first encountered it, its aromatherapeutic effect,  Frida Kahlo, or  the Lady Gaga video. Draw  closes February 21, 2011