I became aware of Xerjoff in the middle of 2009. The first thing that struck me were the beautiful Murano glass bottles; pieces of art to contain the fragrant art inside. As I became familiar with all of the fragrances in the Xerjoff line I found one consistent characteristic, high quality ingredients. That use of only the best also carries with it a price tag which moves Xerjoff solidly into the ultra-luxe category with lines like Amouage and Clive Christian. It is why new releases by these lines are treats for perfumistas because that quality shines through when we encounter it.
The two latest releases from Xerjoff, Richwood and Damarose, are excellent examples of this design aesthetic. Richwood welds together rose, sandalwood and patchouli; Damarose creates a lush opulent rose chypre. Both of these fragrances show what can be done when the finest ingredients are available to be used by a perfumer.
Xerjoff Richwood is all about the sandalwood. There are many great sandalwood fragrances. I’ve even encountered Mysore sandalwood before but I’ve never encountered a sandalwood as complex as the sandalwood in Richwood. The opening is all citrus as mandarin, bergamot, and grapefruit cleanse the palate so that as the sandalwood begins to rise you are ready to take it all in. When the sandalwood steps forward it is joined by orris and rose. Those strong floral notes, by their contrast, expose the woodier aspects of this sandalwood. It feels like a sun-warmed wood next to a garden. Richwood makes the transition into a creamy nature courtesy of a deep patchouli. It is here where Richwood lingers the longest on my skin and I am grateful for it. So many times when wearing a fragrance that moment of sweet synergy passes all too briefly, not in Richwood. The sandalwood and patchouli just radiate for hours and very slowly vanilla and labdanum allow those two notes to fade to black.
Before wearing Richwood my absolute favorite sandalwood-centric drydown came from Burberry London for Men. Richwood has all of the same lovely complexity that is present in that drydown but because of the higher quality ingredients in Richwood it is like comparing traditional TV to HDTV. Richwood just seems more alive, sharper in delineation and altogether a richer experience. Richwood is a beautiful piece of perfumery.
If Richwood is all about sandalwood, Xerjoff Damarose is all about rose. Just like Richwood the Turkish rose at the heart of Damarose is gorgeous but unlike Richwood this rose has a partner in crime, jasmine sambac. The presence of the jasmine adds a foundation to the rose which creates an unusual depth to the heart of Damarose. Damarose opens with fruit but this is a sweeter fruit accord and it is the right choice to lead into the heart. Rose and ylang-ylang are the primary notes coming out of the fruit and at this point Damarose feels like many other rose fragrances out there. Then the jasmine bolsters the rose and as the jasmine and rose take over they seem to meld into one intense sort of rose-like accord. All too soon a trio of notes; sandalwood, rosewood, and amber take Damarose to a warm comfortable place.
It is almost sad that Damarose has to come out at the same time with Richwood because it is an excellent example of a high quality rose fragrance. Richwood is an outstanding example of a rich sandalwood fragrance and might be one of the best examples of that.
Both fragrances have almost unreal longevity lasting over 24 hrs every time I’ve applied them. This is another sign of the quality of the ingredients. Both have sillage to burn, people will know you’re wearing either of these.
Sometimes you just need a reminder that it is the quality of the ingredients that can make the difference. Xerjoff Richwood and Damarose are here to remind us, beautifully, of the truth of that.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Xerjoff USA.
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
We are giving away one sample each of Richwood and Damarose to two commenters. Draw closes Saturday January 15th at 3PM EST. Thanks to Xerjoff USA for the samples we are giving away. Remember, if you posted a comment, please check back as there will be no redraw!!! LIKE us on Facebook so you are always in the 'scent loop'.