The “Lost” Interview: Kilian Hennessy on Back to Black 2010 Fifi Nominee

 

    

 Kilian Hennessy, Founder and Owner of by Kilian

This interview was written and never published six months ago.  Hindsight is 20/20…

Since the debut of L'Oeuvre Noire by Kilian in 2007, I have interviewed Kilian Hennessy three times in as many years. The former Marketing Director of L'Oreal had a master plan from the day we sat down for breakfast  at the Mandarin Oriental in New York City.The next time we met, less than a few months later, the Saks Fifth Avenue's GMM was calling on Kilian's cell, begging for his line.

Kilian has no patience for the politics of  perfumery.  At first, some critics, buyers, and bloggers dismissed his fine fragrances as a rich heir's hobby; fast forward to  2010, and voila, by Kilian is a global brand.  Kilian was and has always been a man on a mission. I don't think  he sleeps unless its on a plane to yet another city somewhere in the world, either to introduce or promote L'Ouevre Noire and his new collection Arabian Nights. There is one fact that no one can dispute, Kilian Hennessy beat the odds and created fine fragrances that resonate with thousands of consumers, never distracted by detractors.  

Back to Black is the eighth fragrance in the L'Ouevre Noire fragrance collection. Rumors are widespread on the Internet that it was named for the controversial singer Amy Winehouse's first album. Please set the record straight.

KH: After Prelude to Love: invitation, which explored the olfactive emotions of a first encounter through a citrus composition, Back to Black: aphrodisiac marks the return to a more audacious family composed with influences from the past, yet reinterpreted with a modern touch in a very personal way. This may be similar in style to what Amy Winehouse has done with her vintage jazz/soul style.

The tag line for this fragrance is 'aphrodisiac'. Great alliteration, but knowing you, Kilian you had something else in mind. Why that particular word?

Embracing the theme of the "Artificial Paradises", Back to Black: aphrodisiac has been created to be an olfactive aphrodisiac, using the narcotic lure of tobacco. Back to Black: aphrodisiac is an olfactive composition built on notes that range from honey to fruity, to woody and ambery, combined to reconstitute a “tobacco” accord.
 
Back to Black: aphrodisiac is just another way to go to heaven…like the Absinthe…like the Cristal…but maybe in a less dangerous way. 

Since you launched L'Ouevre Noire  what have you learned about your customers?

KH: I learned a million things ! Most important of which are the fact that customers DO understand and recognize haute couture fragrances from the masstige ones…maybe also that fragrances are TRULY unisex…


 
  

You are marketing Back to Black: aphrodisiac as a 'shared' perfume. Are men resistant to the concept?

KH: Not at all! I found them on the contrary very savvy, very adventurous…

You never have had a certain image of who should wear your fragrances. Why not?

KH: I am not looking to please to a certain customer… I am trying to create a strong scent with a meaningful story behind it…that’s what matters to me…If I am proud of my scents, then it should please to customers!

What fragrance do you wish you had created?

KH: FEMINITE DU BOIS from Serge Lutens  for Shiseido

Are you only working with perfumer Calice Becker now? Please tell us about your collaborative process.

KH: No…not only. But I have developed a very unique relationship with her and we are ALWAYS on agreement…it is very rare! Especially when you work 12 months on making a scent …it is a long very long and difficult yet very exciting process but you need to be in great harmony with your perfumer to achieve that!


Your first olfactive memory?
 
KH:TUBEREUSE from LE GALLION perfume

How would you like to be thought of?

KH: I hope people will say one day that I was a man with a vision of what he wanted to bring to the fragrance’s world

When will the 9th fragrance in the collection be released.  Would you please give us a preview?

KH: The 9th scent will be launched in September 2010. It will be built on a flower…like all my LOVE scents… Here is your hint ! 

 

POSTSCRIPT: APRIL 27,2010  Back to Black:aprhrodisiac was nominated for a FIFI award in the category "Unique  Boutique" 

– Michelyn Camen , Editor-in-Chief

 7/23/2011 post script http://www.bettyfordcenter.org/index.php please donate to  your favorite charity that helps women with addiction and drug abuse, as well as depression

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14 comments

  • Marlene says:

    Michelyn, I enjoyed reading this interview immensely and have been wearing Love ever since I purchased it during Sniffapalooza. I'm absolutely addicted to this marvelous fragrance, and people keep asking about the scent. Sillage and longevity are longer than average on me, which just adds to my enjoyment.
    Marlene

  • +Q Perfume Blog says:

    Dear Michelyn, thank you for doing this interview. I always wondered what was he thinking when he created back to Black, since I have already reviewed it and mentioned that to me, it reminds me of Sherlock Holmes. It is a great interview and one more brilliant work of yours!
    XXOO

  • forex robot says:

    Terrific work! This is the type of information that should be shared around the web. Shame on the search engines for not positioning this post higher!

  • Judith says:

    I love Back to Black, as well as Love. I have preordered Sweet Redemption. I will say, whoever writes the “stories” of his fragrances is a Poet! I was seduced by the Sweet Redemption press release! Stories behind are part of the allure of any fragrance, however, words do not a fragrance make, regardless of how beautifully woven. By Kilian is one house that does not fail to live up to the imagery… and, all wrapped up on some of the most beautiful bottles and packaging imaginable. Thank you Michelyn for this interview. By Kilian is truly a special!

  • DSH says:

    This is yet another brilliant interview by MC and the CFB blog. I am happy to see this as a tribute to great artistry: that of Kilian and his team of perfumers and also with the inclusion of Amy Winehouse, who created a genre all her own. I am happy to have all of them in my thoughts today.

    Thank you for bringing this as you so so many other wonderful sensory experiences.

  • Judith says:

    The passing of anyone, especially an Iconic personality, will bring back rememberences, in Michely’s case, this interview. ” Back to Black: aphrodisiac marks the return to a more audacious family composed with influences from the past, yet reinterpreted with a modern touch in a very personal way. This may be similar in style to what Amy Winehouse has done with her vintage jazz/soul style.” Indeed, I see the connection, and I understand Michelyn’s posting this today. And, may I add, the lack of mental health care in this country, and others, has frayed communities and families to the brink of horror. I have just sprayed myself with Back to Black, and will now be listening to the wonderful videos and music links of Amy Winehouse that my wonderful fb friends have posted today! This will be my tribute.

  • Anya says:

    I feel it is appropriate that Michelyn sent readers back to this insightful interview that mentioned Amy Winehouse. As shocked by her early death as anyone else, if I had mentioned her in a blog I wrote, I’m sure I would have linked to it. It’s a form of homage, and I appreciate seeing the link so that I could revisit a bit of CFB that touched upon the singer.

  • Hernando says:

    Amy’s death is a tragic loss. Such a talented soul that could not get the help she needed. Thanx Ms. M. for taking us back to remember the wonderful inspiration she had on others. Timing is everything and there is no better time to give tribute then in death when her positive influence needs to be accentuated over the negative. She tried but could not overcome her demons.
    God bless Amy. RIP.

  • Jane says:

    The more we talk about addiction and mental illness, the better the chances are that someone who is suffering will hear us and seek help. By Killian’s Back To Black is an elegant and fitting tribute to a great talent. I could listen to that album on a loop, I love it so much. The more I hear about Killian Hennessey, the more I like & respect him. RIP Amy.