Leonardo Da Vinci
Today I think about perfume as the work of art. Most often I see perfumes as a cross between an abstract still life and a story. Because a perfume is based on real life objects – flowers, fruit, sweets, leather goods (gloves and saddle) – but not limited to them, the perfume is similar to a still life. On the other hand, we all know that some of the best perfumes are not still. The transition between the notes of top, heart and base are similar to an unfolding of a good story.
Olga's Calla Lillies
Calla lilies grow in front of my house and they do not give me allergies because they do not smell.When I started my perfumista journey, I sought soliflores – lilac, lily of the valley, rose. These are my favorite flowers, the ones I love to grow in the garden, place in a bouquet on the table and smell both in a perfume and in the flower bed. There are two soliflores that I never sought in perfumes -hyacinths and lilies. I was afraid that I would not be able to wear a perfume based on either one of these flowers. A reasonable fear, since I am allergic to them and cannot have them at home without risking a terrible headache
Edward Burnes Jones
Yet when I had a chance to try Un Lys by Serge Lutens, I knew I would risk it. I picked a day I planned to walk a lot and put a smallest possible dab on my wrist. It was a cold day. I had to walk fast to keep it warm and constantly sniffed my wrist because the fragrance was lovely, and I had no trace of headache. Good news! And all of a sudden the poetic lines started to find their way to my consciousness. Have you ever tried to attend to such poetic guest, to stop thinking about anything except those lines that are trying to enter your mind by just standing behind the closed door, not making even a slightest knock? You read CaFleureBon, so you love the Arts and poetry, that’s why I’m sure many of you have.
So there I was, sniffing my wrist and trying to sort out my feelings and my forgotten poem. It was a lily, and it was so clear that it seemed to be ringing in the cold air, and it was joyful and jubilant, and it was good news. And the poem was stirring in me until I finally said out loud in the street, “But of course! Good news! Annunciation!”
Leonardo Da Vinci
Since that day I have smelled many lily fragrances. I am now unafraid of a headache – apparently, an artistic rendition of lily does not affect my body the same way a flower in the vase does. But now I have another personal lily association. I cannot help but ask myself what kind of Annunciation scene each lily perfume evokes.
Botticelli’s Annunciation scene does not have a 1000 Lilies, but it has what DSH Perfume's 1000 Lilies has – a sense of timelessness and serenity. I have a penchant for classic beauty of quiet women painted by Botticelli. 1000 Lilies reminds me of this Annunciation scene. It is serene and quiet. All movements had definitely been frozen by the master of stopping time, so we can now stare at this scene forever. 1000 Lilies gives me a similar sense of being still in a frozen moment of time. It is a quiet green lily perfume (definitely try it if you like Lys Mediterranee!). Quiet, still and green and white, like a landscape behind the window.
Sandro Botticelli
Another lily with green facets (as they said, Cartier’s Basier Vole is based on a whole plant – pollen, flower, stem, and such) led me to another Botticelli association. Basier Vole is a fun lily fragrance, by no means heady, mostly green and yet with a significant lily smelling powder. I am reminded of this incredibly luxurious smelling powder by the golden light scattering around the simple surroundings in the painting.
Mariotto Albertinelli
It is interesting to think of Ineke’s Angel Trumpet with regard to Annunciation, since an Angel Trumpet flower is technically not a lily, but the name definitely gives a push toward thinking about Gabriel and his role. Angel Trumpet seemed to match my logic. It is definitely not a lily, but it is suggestive of a sacred scene. There is a hint of white floral lily, a one small stem of a flower given, and then the whole scene is covered from the eyes of the profane world by a greenish veil. A joyful but understated Springlike fragrance. Ineke is a master of light, transparent veils.
Still-Life with Flowers and Fruit, Francisco Barrera
Another lily fragrance composed by Ineke, Gilded Lily never seemed to be gilded to me. Nor did it make me think about any Annunciation scene. Gilded Lily is a still life with lilies and fruit. Look at this 1643 painting by Francisco Barrera – there are lilies on the table, but the composition will not be the same without transparent peaches and cherries in the foreground. Somehow, I do not doubt that these see through cherries from the painting are juicy and delicious, never a tad too sweet, but always fresh and fragrant. Ineke’s Gilded Lily with its red box and decidedly anime-like Japanese esthetic in the art is a beautiful transparent still life with lilies and fruit.
Alessandro Allori
The Annunciation scene by Alessandro Allori features bright colors, vivid emotions, and homy cozy furniture. Look at the low wooden bench located between Mary and Gabriel. Some of us have pieces of furniture of a similar style at home – at least I do. The accessible style and the everyday poses and gestures create a comforting and everyday feel for this Annunciation scene. The lily is featured prominently as well. This describes for me Penhaligon’s Lily and Spice. A beautiful comforting homey true lily fragrance, smelling just like the stargazers that gave me allergies. Luckily, Lily and Spice does not.
Paul Berthon
The rest of the day I tried to recall the poem. It gave away its mysteries word by word, and when I finally was able to recite the whole thing in my mind, I realized how Un Lys matches the poem itself, the relief, the confusion, the attempt to remember, the jubilant lily smell in the cold sunshine, and the Good News…
"She's extraordinary! It's too much!
Do not accuse me yet! I have forgotten!
Blessed art thou! He ordered me to say –
Blessed art thou! But after that a calm
So smooth . . . But wait a while: among women
Blessed art thou! . . . But after that a sound
So jubilant . . . My child, attend to this:
Blessed art thou! – But after that a quiet
So . . ." Marina Tsvetaeva Translated by Michael Makin
– Olga Rowe, Contributor
Editor's Note: The Annunciation celebrates the Angel Gabriel's appearance to the Virgin Mary, announcing that she had been chosen to be the Mother of God. This year Annunciation Day is March 26, 2012
Thanks to INeKE Perfumes we have a draw for a 75 ml flacon of Gilded Lily. To be eligible leave a comment about Olga's tribute to the lillies of the Annunciation AND name at least two ingredients in Gilded Lily by March 26, 2012