Maitre Parfumeur Edmond Roudnitska Diorissimo (1956) by Michel Roudnitska: “The Fragrance of May Day”

Michel Roudnitska: Photo Courtesy of Pierre Benard Osmoart Parfums Couleurs et Sons,

The creation of Diorissimo in 1956 was a revolution in my father Edmond Roudnitska’s way of composing fragrances.10 years before “Eau Sauvage” this perfume was a real return to nature, a reaction to the heavy, sweet and complex perfumes of the past.

It was a new signature, light, fluid, limpid, and uncluttered.

 

Art by Michel Roudnitska

Diorissimo is not only a reproduction of the lily of the valley, the muguet, it’s a complete spring scene in the forest at dawn, with the evocation of green fresh leaves, adorned with hints of jasmine, lilac and rose.

Edmond Roudnitska 1969:Courtesy of Michel Roudnitska

It smells like nature, but the kind of nature that was only achieved by way of my father’s own acuity with both natural and synthetic odorants and his abiding intellectual search for the meaning of art and perfume. He said “Speak to people of form and not of epidermis”. He sought to elevate the perfume from the sensual level to a sophisticated aesthetic discourse.

Thérèse and Edmond Roudnitska with Mr. Christian Dior: Photo Courtesy of Michel Roudnitska

This flower was the favorite and fetish odor of M. Christian Dior (for his funeral ceremony his coffin was completely covered with muguet). So when he came to our laboratory in Cabris and discovered my father’s creation he adopted it immediately. It was also very meaningful to my father himself, who spent the early days of his relationship with his wife Therese, wandering the woods and gathering lily of the valley around Paris.

Roudnitska Garden Cabris: Photo Courtesy of Michel Roudnistka

I was eight years old when this fragrance was launched but I remember rather well all the numerous tests done before, directly inspired by the large flower bed of “muguet” my father specially created in our garden. We are still taking great care of this precious and mythical place. Because of the European safety rules (IFRA) the formula of the Diorissimo had to be changed several years ago especially about one main component which had no real substitute. It’s a great pity that, like many other olfactive masterworks, this fragrance cannot be preserved from such alteration!

Photo: Courtesy of Michel Roudnitska

Nevertheless this fragrance was still very close to the original and still provides 55 years after its creation the same ineffable appeal.

As of last year an "Eau de Parfum" has been launched, it’s no longer the genuine formula of the "Eau de Toilette", it’s a new interpretation by François Demachy for Dior which may bring some confusion among the public because it’s nearly impossible to distinguish the 2 versions only looking at the packaging. So be very attentive next time you buy your Diorissimo bottle

Michel Roudnitska, Contributor

http://www.art-et-parfum.com/cvmr.htm

Editor's Note: Tu nous honores de nouveau en nous authorisant a publier cette speciale dedicace de ton pere, le Maitre-Artiste, Edmond Roudnitska. Diorissimo is not just for May Day; it is a perfume for every day, although its associated with Muguet the flower of May Day.

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23 comments

  • Michel, such an important and informative article on Diorissimo. I loved reading about your father's return to nature, the difference between Diorissimo and prior perfumes, and his emphasis on the absolute value of aesthetic form (what a wonderful quotation!). I think this value gets lost in today's commercial market and your piece stands as an important reminder. I also enjoyed learning about his flower bed of muguet and how you are preserving it. What a fitting tribute to him!

  • Thanks so much for sharing this story of your Father and this perfume journey.  I always think of Diorissimo for Spring and will wear it on Mother's day along with my mother!   
    This fragrance is now more special to me because of your words.
    Ragna
     
     

  • Re Diorissimo as a "complete spring scene" – I knew a little bit about this scent, but how interesting to hear the full background – including the lowdown on its reformulation – straight from the horse's mouth…
    Thanks so much for sharing the story with us!

  • Michel, thank you for sharing your memories and legacy of Diorissimo. It is a great pity that such a great masterpiece has had to be altered at all. I am honored to read such an intimate remembrance. <3

  • It's so sad to hear of reformulations of these classic fragrances.  I wore Diorissimo in the mid-1990's.  Though perhaps it was also not the "original" formulation, it was wonderful, and I will always have great memories of it.  I have not tried the most recent formulations, and probably won't.  All things must pass, as they say.  Change is inevitable.  The best we can do is to cherish and appreciate what we have when we have it, as some day, it will be gone.  Thank you for the story, Michel.

  • I loved this article as much as I love this gorgeous fragrance.  It captures what a dewy, fresh forest would smell like in the early morning mist…………..Beautiful!   Also, a favorite of the late Princess Diana, a woman I highly admired and attempt to emulate!!

  • It was touching to witness those precious memories. Thank you very much! Not sure if words could express my feelings about article, so I better just put a drop of Diorissimo scent on my wrist and enjoy its crystal freshness, and the whispers between green leaves, tender muguet and warm jasmine…

  • Dear Michel:

    It's ironic to read of this on the day the future queen of England carries a bouquet of muguet at her wedding.
    I feel as if I am let into a secret world with your writing of the behind-the-scenes philosophies and emotions that went into Diorissimo.  Thanks to your father, in my opinion, the greatest perfumer who ever lived, we had a decades-long enjoyment of this perfume.
    That the corporate silliness of IFRA could cause such destruction of a classic perfume, a true work of art, is sad to say, too frequent these days. I have felt that I have been the only perfumer writing against IFRA and the EU for years.  I had to leave the soapbox of my blog for a time because I felt that I was unheard. Thus was born the concept of Outlaw Perfumers, those of us who call for sanity: just a label on a perfume should suffice, not reformulation.  Let the public decide.
    Thank you for this insider's glimpse, and I want to read much more from you, as I admire your work, the gardens and your philosophy.
    Anya

  • Thank you Michel for sharing your intimate story.  I love Muguet and growing up it was a favorite of mine.  Your story has touched my heart and I am happy to see that you are keeping the magical muguet bed alive.

  • I can only describe this as heartbreaking as having a great masterpiece be ripped apart before my eyes.
    Thank you for sharing this story. It is terrifying to think how many “masterpieces” are being turned into souvenirs though.

  • Merci cher Michel pour cet article intéressant et bien informateur. Mon premier parfum que j’ai reçu de mon père à l’âge de neuve ans était bien ce cher Diorissimo que j’ai porté avec cet âme d’enfant et il m’a accompagnée pendant toute mon enfance jusqu’au jour je n’ai plus pu en avoir. Il y a bien 17 ans au souvenir de cette belle enfance j’ai acheté ce parfum mythique qui m’a fait tant rêvé, mais malheureusement ce parfum n’était plus le même. A chaque pulvérisation je toussais ce qui m’a causé de perdre ma faculté olfactive et je ne sentais plus rien. J’ai toujours ce flacon que j’ai gardé et je n’ose plus le toucher. je l’ai gardé comme preuve…quel dommage… je reste toujours dans ces souvenirs olfactifs de diorissimo de mon enfance . Qu’est-ce que je ne donnerai pour en avoir encore un flacon mais le vrai. En attendant je me contente avec le “Début”…

  • You are generous to share such a precious and private story with us, Michel. Thank you for a lovely contribution.

  • Marcopietro says:

    Thanks Michel for your contribute, evocative words, clear and full of images of the past, but still so present in our current time. However one is subsidized when the object of memories is a masterpiece like Diorissimo.

  • WOW Oh WOW. I wasn’t a reader at the time and this is such an amazing piece This flower was the favorite and fetish odor of M. Christian Dior (for his funeral ceremony his coffin was completely covered with muguet). So when he came to our laboratory in Cabris and discovered my father’s creation he adopted it immediately.
    Also I would like to know if the EDT has changed now??? I have a small bottle of my mom’s diorissimo and it is heavenly

  • I have a bottle of Diorissimo, and I have to say there is something in Grandifloral-Michel that reminds me of Diorissimo. Which is like seeing one beautiful person, and having their beauty remind you of another beautiful person-two things related only by beauty. I hope this makes sense-I wish I had the gift of language to share what I mean!
    The photos are so beautiful-thank you for them. This winter was so long and so snowy and so vicious-when I wanted a visual lift I would re read your contributions here-the photos are amazing. Thank you for your work-whatever form you choose to express yourself, You bring joy and beauty to people.

    Carole

  • What a beautiful story. Thank you so much for sharing your memories.
    I searched long for a non spoiled bottle of vintage Diorissimo to be able to smell exactly what this story and these pictures describe so beautifully.
    It is one of the purest and most touching perfumes I know, and it is always a special day when I choose to wear it, and no matter which season outside- with me is Diorissimo and therefore spring.

  • What a perfect day to post this piece. I wear this creation all the time, one of my favorite when I need a fragrance to hug my body and soul. Michel, thank you for sharing this wonderful information and your fabulous photos.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am so glad i got esprit de parfum of diorissimo this year…it is such a close interpretation of the flower….really glorious.

  • I have worn Diorissimo for 35 years and have never found another scent that I loved as much. While the scent prior to reformulation was much preferred, what is really disappointing is that it no longer lingers on the skin. I was often complimented by the subtle scent of Diorissimo long after i dabbed or sprayed on. Ah well. Perhaps as someone posted some years ago, we can cherish and remember. If only I could move on…