soOud Burqa: Beneath the Veil + LuckyScent Draw

Hazrat Ali Mosque from photography.nationalgeographic.com

Earlier this year in NYC at Elements, I barely had the opportunity to thoroughly examine the soOud collection…

I was captivated by Stéphane Humbert- Lucas– that too-handsome rascal nose for both Nez à Nez and soOud.

We found ourselves nose-deep in tête-à-tête, discussing all things sensorial and sensual, with a fair degree of intensity.

Stephane Humbert-Lucas from marieclaire.it

At Henri Bendel’s last weekend – during Sniffapalooza’s Spring Fling– [where he is now ensconced with all his new beauties assembled] –

I was able to devote more time to the lot…and I did.

Several fragrances caught my nose- but only one did I purchase and carry home as scented bounty

And that one was Burqa.

Let’s examine this name more closely.

On the oh-so-elegant white-and-gold outer container/ box, it states very quietly, in tiny gold font, on the very bottom of the side of the package:

“Burqa, le parfum ne supporte plus l’interdit.”

Which is rather quizzically translated on the opposite side of the box to read:

“Burqa, the perfume likes difference

Oh dear.

NOW I’m done for .

Burqa.

Burqa burqa burqa.

It’s hypnotizing to repeat as a mantra, as if in an indolent narcotized trance state, isn’t it?

But unfortunately, it is a word fraught with meaning and iconic of women’s struggles- according to most Western perceptions.

Ought it to be???

Indulge me, my friends, and let me tell you a story, if I may.

[As if you could stop me ;-)]

It might help to illuminate the well-intentioned Babelfishing above

A very dear friend of mine, a gorgeous specimen of the Hibernian Academic-

Fell madly in love with a Shiite Saudi professor.

They married in haste and repented in leisure; but that is immaterial to the gist of my tale.

Two beautiful children were the result of their union- Amir and Yasmin.

And the plot thickens…

Yasmin was raised, for the lion’s share of her young life

In Saudi Arabia, and other adjoining countries where women are veiled.

She came to the U.S. later on, to attend Princeton, and majored in Women’s Studies….

Yasmin’s perspective on life among Arabic women certainly challenged any presuppositions I’d entertained.

According to Yasmin’s experiences and travels– even among Bedouin women-

The women she lived with felt morally superior to their men [although they might not verbalize this except amongst themselves].

They were veiled and covered in public; each felt that she was beautiful, without exception –

Irrespective of age, weight, financial status, education, or social standing in the community.

Women’s life among women was joyful and at times tempestuous-

As all family life can be… and is.

The dancing, singing, the sisterly camaraderie and intimacy was a gift that Yasmin felt sadly lacking upon return to her mother’s rural native Massachusetts.

Even in Harvard Square and other urban areas where intellectual young folk congregate…

Nowhere could Yasmin experience the warmth and comfort of belonging that she had grown up with, and taken for granted.

And the veiling? The burqa?

Modesty is nothing new; Jews, Muslims, Catholics, Protestants, Evangelical Christians, Mennonites, Amish, Quakers, Buddhists, Hindus-

All believe in behaving and clothing themselves modestly.

We are all fully aware that anything can be abused, used to torment and entrap.

Classical music can be used for torture [witness Clockwork Orange’s bold use of Beethoven’s Fifth! ].

Sustenance and the lack of it- can be an affront or a blessing, given and withheld.

Rules and tenets can be twisted to include and exclude, as one desires.

Burqa Eau Fine Notes:

Jasmine, rose, black violet, cardamom, sage, leather, benzoin, myrrh, black ink, rubber sap, black amber, teak, patchouli drops, gaiac.

Notes are a fundamentally curious thing, aren’t they?

They can be so deceptive.

What really matters is skin, and how it all plays out on the fleshly canvas.

The beauty of the suggested, the intimated, of pleasures to come- is its lure.

spiritofmaat.com

Yes, there are florals- deep, dark ones which inhabit the landscape of. Homer’s wine-dark sea.

It feels that way to me

flickr.com

In the exotically woody, salty, diaphanous darkness there are olives, aged and briny.

There exist tendrils of smoke, lightly scorched earth from an extinguished bonfire, and the suggestion of well-worn saddles.

Cardamom and sage are strange bedfellows, but they create an enigmatic atmosphere, summoning the souk and the caravan.

We speak of the ghostly dry loveliness of the desert, you and I.

It is peaceful, but the erotic tension is a subtext which will manifest later, when we have cooled our heels and wet our parched lips.

redvisitor.com

Burqa is an oddly comely fragrance; it seeks only to please itself.

And perhaps you, as well.

There are other fragrances in the soOud collection which are much, much easier to wear, and probably, to love-

But Burqa has my heart.

My deeply secretive, alluring heart, waiting to unfurl like a shrouded desert bloom.

splendidarabia.com

Ida Meister, Senior Editor

We have a draw courtesy of Luckyscent of samples of all eight of the soOud eau fine collection.

Al Jana Eau Fine,Asmar Eau Fine,Burqa Eau Fine,Fam Eau Fine,Hajj Eau Fine,Kanz Eau Fine,Nur Eau Fine,Ouris Eau Fine

To be eligible just leave a comment naming your favorite soOud or the one you most look forward to trying. Draw closes on May 12, 2011.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


30 comments

  • Alexander Rachev says:

    Recently I'm gettig more and more excited about eastern fragrances and I would love to try the So Oud line.If presenting a product is conneted with it's quality I guess I will be very tempted.I would like to expirience all of them but if I have to choose, I would prefer Knaz,Burqa,Hajj and Nur.

  • taffynfontana says:

    How interesting that you mention Burqas just last week we were having a frank discussion about them at work. Although so much of the face is veiled and hidden you get a spotlight on the eyes and aren't they the window to the souls? Would love to be entered into the draw I love Ouds.

  • As an Arab, I must say I'm growing increasingly suspicious and cynical of such orientalizing efforts that seem to be ever more on the rise in perfumery. Nevertheless, I'm willing to giving anything new the benefit of the doubt, especially that much good has come out of such efforts (in addition to much not-so-good). That being said, I'd love the chance to give this line a try (though I must say, I'll unlikely go out of my way to do so on my own).

  • We will never know exactly what is going on behind the walls in Arabian homes and behind burka as well. At he same time horrifying and mysterious and that's what attracts us and turns us off from this countries.

  • We will never know exactly what is going on behind the walls in Arabian homes and behind burka as well. At he same time horrifying and mysterious and that's what attracts us and turns us off from this countries. The review is really nice.

  • Very alluring and not that typical review, what pleasure to read! SoOud brand got my attention since its launch- have not tried these scents yet, but I liked few of Nez a Nez. Asmar and Hajj do sound especially lovely. Agree, some connotations might sound bit provocative, yet the full concept is really well presented.

  • I can’t help taking a cynical view that SoOud is getting a free marketing ride on the back of current controversies about the wearing of the burqa and associated publicity. Still, I love Eastern influences in perfumes and especially the current trend with all things Oud. I would love to try Burqa after your review. Thanks Ida.

  • I would love to try Burqa- the combination of notes sounds exquisite…I grew up in the Middle East, among other places, and I will never forget the smells…especially in the bazaar…the mixture of spices and fruit…and something else incredibly exotic that I could never put my finger on…this is what I imagine Burqa must smell like…Also, I loved watching the veiled women and wondering what they were like…and marvelling at the beautiful kohl-rimmed eyes and incredibly sexy platform shoes they wore…

  • Wonderful article and review, Ida!
    I admit that the idea of burqas has negative connotations for me, but it's true that I have always thought that the women behind them are really interesting and charming people.
    I would love to try all the fragrances in the line, especially Al Jana (a green scent). All its notes are right up my alley.
    Thanks for this draw!!

  • The fragrance itself sounds amazing, but I have a real problem with the name, I have to admit.  A garment that forces women to participate in their own subjugation is hideous, and I can't think of any way for it to be otherwise.

  • chayaruchama says:

    Al Jana IS a delight !
    So are Nur, and Asmar-Asmar has such honeyed sweetness, great for a warm climate / winter warmth
    Dear folk :

    Believe me, I too feel deeply conflicted about so many practices ; I find them profoundly disturbing.
    And I find that I am constantly challenged to keep a clear head..
    I meet up with fundamentalist individuals [ yesterday it was a bevy of dear, but entrenched Evangelical Baptists !] of every stripe in my work…
    These issues SHOULD  disturb, provoke, and challenge our humanity; no argument there.
    I think, if I had not spent time with Yasmin, and worked with wonderful Moroccan women for many years-I wouldn't have been allowed to see a different side of the burqa.
    I am not blind to the injustices we encounter every day-
    Nor do I condone them.

    I work whole-heartedly at Tikkun Olam [ healing the world] every day; it's my personal mission.
    I hope all who read me understand this !
    I send my loving hope that one day, we will accept one another and communicate better, all of us-
    In a more just world…

  • All the descriptions of the So Oud line sound interesting, but Asmar really got my attention. It's listed notes, "Bergamot, white honey, carnation, roasted coffee, amber cigar, grape marc, amber, tobacco leaves, chamois, musk, vanilla", sound like a wonderful brew to me.
    Ida, I applaud your introspective review and delving into the use of the hot topic name of Burqa. I have lived all over the world, and one of the most wonderful things was seeing each country's mode of dress. Sadly, over the years, almost all the country's I go to have adopted western wear, and lost their individuality, in my opinion.  I lived in Saudi Arabia in the early 90's, and initially  found the burqas a little unsettling.  I remember my shock the first time I went to a beauty parlor, and saw these young gorgeous creatures, minus the burqas, flitting around and chattering to each other happily. I asked about the burqas and was told they liked to save their beauty for their husbands.
    I admire your being able to have an open mind and look beyond the obvious, something very much lacking in our general society. Having said that, I have to admit that out of the 12 countries I have lived in, Saudi Arabia was the only one I didn't like. I will give it credit though for being instrumental in nurturing my new found (at that time) love of perfume. Perfume was a big deal there. Imagine it…it's one way a woman can still express herself, even when enveloped by the burqa.

  • This is one of those Perfume lines that has come along and complteley caught my attention. I am the proud owner of Kanz, Burqa, Ouris (edp and Nektar) and Hajj, Asmar is the next one of my list. This line has something for everybody and even the ones that have oud are on the lighter side and very wearable. Burqa in the drydown is amazing. Ouris is easy to wear for everybaody and to my nose the most feminine in the group followed by Hajj. Asmar is the honeyed tabacco comfort fragrance i ador. Yes I LOVE THIS LINE and no i am not offended in any way by the names used for these fragrances, there is a certain beauty in it. Thank you for bringing SoOud to us…..i am a FAN for life.

  • I think it would be tough to love the name, no matter that many women do find burqas freeing in their own way; however, it sounds like it would not be tough at all to love the fragrance. I am commenting because the soOud I’m most interested in trying is now this one. 🙂 I have some other ouds and hadn’t been interested in yet another line all about oud (All About Eve?), but Ida has convinced me!

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    Kanz looks to be the one that I'd wish to try first, closely followed by Al Jana. All of the SoOud fragrances look extremely tempting but those stood out for me.
     

  • Michellle Hunt says:

    This looks to be quite an intriguing line, and I do love that the bottles look like they are topped with lipsticks…I suppose my first choice to try would be Asmar Parfu Nektar, because I do so love the idea of ambers, I admire amber fragrances on other people, but I have yet to find my perfect one (though many of my favorites have an amber nuance).  Always looking (and concocting), though!  Please enter me in the draw, thanks! 

  • I enjoyed not only the perfume review, but the burqa discussion as well.  Well stated and I appreciate the interesting insights.
     
    Asmar, Nur and Ouris are the 3 I will try whether or not I win (and in that order!).

  • This line is new to me.  Many of them sound delicious.  Especially, Ouris Parfum Nektar & Kanz Parfum Nektar.  I would love to be included in this draw.


  • i haven't heard about this line till today. after reading about your experience with Burqa i'm most excited about smelling it! the rest of the scents of course also have my interest.

  • I liked bottles design the first time I read an announcement about the upcoming launch. So far I haven't tried any of the perfumes in the line but I am curious. Judging from the description, I find Ouris Eau Fine the most appealing but I wouldn't mind trying the complete line.
    I read the story with interest but I rather disagree with a sentiment. I do not see anything good in the way women are treated in those countries where, as an author put it, "women are veiled".
    "The dancing, singing, the sisterly camaraderie and intimacy was a gift that Yasmin felt sadly lacking upon return to her mother’s rural native Massachusetts." – she missed her big family, the way of life she was used to. Haven't we heard similar stories about local freshmen especially in pressing environment of good universities?
    No matter how good Burqua perfume is I will not buy or wear it. I do not want to condone the phenomenon even in such seemingly harmless form. "Oh, it smells so nice. What are you wearing?" – "Burqua!" – nah, not me. What next? Jeweled shackles or designer's KKK hoods?

  • Very interesting, I cannot decide which one would be my preference but I guess – maybe Ouris Nektar. Thanks!

  • chayaruchama says:

    Undina- I respect your feelings entirely
    Perhaps you missed my commentary regarding my own conflicts ?
    My name here [ my true name] is Chayaruchama- but I'm the senior editor, Ida Meister.
    However, I also go by the Arabic cognate- Hayat Rachman.

  • Very interesting thought-provoking piece! I would like to enter the drawing and most look forward to trying Burqa Eau Fine.

  • I just received some samples in the mail today and Burqa Eau Fine is one of them. It’s the only one I have tried in the SoOud line though and oh my gosh! it is divine. It smells so authentically Arabic – simply luxurious! I grew up in Dubai and smelling Burqa instantly transported me back there. Ah! as a child, out shopping in the souk with my mom, we were always so enamoured with the Oud perfume worn by the Arab women. They mere passing by us would put us in a dreamy state with their heady perfume. If Burqa smells so amazing, I cannot imagine what the rest of the line smells like. I am definitely yearning to try the rest. This I am sure of now though; there is a bottle of Burqa in my future.

  • Ida, I read the article very attentively (actually, I did it twice before posting my first reply and once again now) – I try to do it always, and in particular when my comment is going to be on a "disagreeing" side.
    You winced at the name but then proceeded with reasoning why it might be not as bad as it is "according to most Western perceptions", how other things might be equally bad and finding parallels in other religions.
    And there I disagreed with you.
    Yes, history knows many examples of using classical music in horrific contexts (e.g. by Nazis in concentration camps) but it's a by-product, a misuse but not in any way a design or intent of that music. Everything about a burqua, in my opinion, is offensive and disrespectful towards women. Yeah, those who do not know better and have to live in countries where it is a way of living might find some consolation thoughts (all those "feeling morally superior" or "beautiful no matter what") but I think it's just a form of the Stockholm syndrome and we – people living in a free and more or less equality oriented society – do not have to do that. Not all phenomena of other cultures deserve equal respect and tolerance from us.
    If the brand targets the Middle East consumers I do not see anything wrong with this name. If those women [have to] go along with wearing actual burquas it's perfectly fine to use a perfume with that name. But for us, for our markets I find it … well, let's use the modern terminology – not PC.

  • If our eyes are the window to our souls.
    If every one wants to be modest (religiously speaking).
    Then by those standards we are all bearing our most prized, honored and telling feature exposing our eyes. If our eyes do not lie then what we say mustnt matter much and is just a shroud…protection.
    I have always been intrigued by darkness and shrouds. Human nature draws our attention to what we do not already know so that we may learn.
    Because it sounds to me that these scents are the embodiment of unfamilliarity, I would love to experience them.

  • ElizabethN says:

    I have never tried these, but I want to try Burqa, only because I don't know what the others are like! And despite the claims to contrary, there are women who wear the burqa out of personal choice. They are not oppressed or abused. Moreover, I can see how wearing one could be liberating – freedom from judgment based on one's appearance and freedom from the prying eyes of men (and women). In any case, it's not for us to judge a cultural practice unless we are a part of that culture, in my humble opinion…

  • Mary Beth says:

    I played with  these the other week in NYC. Hajj is definitely more my "style", but it was Burqa I kept returning to (rather embarassingly so).  It seems to envelop you in a beautiful murkiness while singing to some part of you that was lost in another time. I can't explain it and I know there'd be some issues with the name amongst my military friends, but it's a perfume after all, not a political statement.