There is a certain taboo within wine circles that one does not mix fragrance with wine, (summed up pithily) to 'check your fragrance at the door'. You see, oenophiles don't appreciate perfume or cologne while sniffing, swirling, sipping (and often spitting).
Auerole, New York City
So, it was with both skepticism and a bit of curiosity when I received an invitation to attend Jo Malone Fragrances "Exploration of the Senses" Event held at the sophisticated restaurant, Aureole in New York City (whose celebrity chef Charley Palmer is celebrated for his progressive American Cuisine).
The lunch presentation was hosted by Mr. Shaun Rowan, Director of North American Education of Jo Malone with special guest Ms. Eileen Crane, the CEO and Founding Winemaker of Domaine Carneros and was to feature a pairing of the scents of Jo Malone with the wines of Domaine Carneros.
So, this is where it gets interesting. Since Jo Malone is known for "The Art of Fragrance Combining™ how will combining wine and fragrance pairings fare?
Greetings and Salutations
Domaine Carneros launched in 1987 when Champagne Taittinger chose a 138 acre parcel in the heart of Carneros, a viticultural appellation they recognized to have the potential to produce world class sparkling wines. The winery is now certified as an organic vineyard. Eileen Crane was selected to oversee the planning and development of the property and the winery’s first and only winemaker. Forbes Magazine recently listed Ms. Crane as "Napa's Most Powerful Woman."
Jo Malone, the British fragrance and lifestyle brand's philosophy is to provide a unique sensory experience. They created the distinct concept of Fragrance Combining, each fragrance can be worn alone or one can create a unique blend of two or more of the EDTs to create your own signature scent.
But the question is …can we create a signature moment where we sniff and sip in harmony?
The Set Up
Eileen and Sean led off each course with an informative summary of what we were to experience. Their passion and dedication to their art was evident and they worked very well together. This was a good omen that the wine and the fragrance would also work well together.
The First Course
We started with a glass of Domaine Carneros Brut 2006, the standard bearer of the winery, this was a nice way to open the proceedings. This wine is aged for three years before its release and is a cuvee blend of mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Scented strips of Jo Malone's Lime, Basil & Mandarin,( which is also one of the standard bearers for the fragrance label), and Grapefruit, were passed around to sniff. The wine and the fragrances both contained a complimentary citrus note which created a lovely convergence. I found the clean, fresh lime combined with the lively grapefruit a better match together than separately; proving this blending of scents makes good sense!
Food pairing: Chilled Alaskan Spot Prawn
The Second Course
Next, Domaine Carneros featured their Brut Rose, a wine produced in small quantities in a very balanced floral style which I found rich and creamy. With a pink (more like pale copper) color this was not your parent's sweet sparkler. It is nice and dry; probably best to drink it on the young side.
The fragrances chosen to pair with the Brut Rose were Jo Malone's Nectarine Blossom & Honey Cologne and Red Roses Cologne which paired well. Intertwining with the wine's aromas of roses and strawberries, this wine was well matched with each of the individual scents and then the combined fragrances. I normally tend to shy away from rose scents but I found Red Roses clean and fresh. The combined scents did work well in tandem as well.
Food pairing: American Wagyu Beef Tataki
The Third Course
Last, we imbibed a glass of Domaine Carneros Estate Pinot Noir 2007, a full bodied,exotic wine of nice depth. Still a tad on the young side it promises excellent aging potential. This is not to be confused with Pinot Noir in the Burgundian style, this is an All-American!
The two fragrances chosen to accompany the Pinot were Sweet Lime & Cedar and Pomegranate Noir. Interesting and certainly unique, the Pomegranate Noir opened a bit tart at the top but did manage to settle down a bit. It was certainly the most complex of the scents. With its wine-like aroma it did pair well with the Pinot. Although from a purely aesthetic point of view the Sweet Lime & Cedar fragrance was more my scent style.
Food pairing: L.I Pekin Duck Breast
The Verdict
Yes, this oenephile bought into the pairing of wine and fragrance. We can sniff and sip in harmony as long as balance is created.
Having two of my passions combined in such a pleasant setting was wonderful. One last little fillip before the end of our adventure…. Shaun Rowan let us in on a little secret; Jo Malone is to open a downtown store (to replace the shuttered US FlatIron flagship) by years end!
– Hernando Courtright, Contributor