I arrived at the Triennale, where Esxence is being held, with the excited expectation of a fangirl. Just in the first few minutes I caught a glimpse of Roja Dove and was introduced to Olivier Durbano. With speeches and a flourish, the ribbon was cut, the sheet was pulled off of the big sculpture of a nose gracing the entryway, and the show began.
Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio with her new fragrance Ombre Indigo
Being a smart girl, I avoided the rush and went in through the back of the show. It was already too warm, and the air filled with a miasma of fragrance quickly. My first stop was to meet with Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio, who has a delicious new fragrance, Ombre Indigo. Just the color of the juice is fantastic enough. She shared her story of the perfume being inspired by a photo that is more intensely colored than the photos she has used as inspiration from the past, but still has the feel of shadow. yes, the fragrance lived up to my expectations…tuberose..incense…resins…dizzy with delight
Sasha Leroux of Au Pays de la Fleur D'Oranger
Next stop was to meet Sasha Leroux, Sales Director, and Phillipe Constantin, Development Director, from Au Pays de la Fleur D'Oranger, who showed me the neroli collection that Nancy reviewed recently. Being a huge neroli fan, I loved them all. Two new perfumes are being introduced Violet Sacree and Rose Irisee. Both knocked me out.
Olivier Durbano of Durbano Perfumes
My fangirlness went into hyperdrive when I visited with Olivier Durbano. He is handsome, sweet, and forthcoming. I smelled his latest release, Philosopher's Stone, which uses a mythical stone instead of a real one like the rest of his collection as the focal point. Before I leave today I am putting some of that on. I told him my story about his Turquoise, which I had not liked when I first smelled, but haunted me so much I had to seek it out again. He said that the first time you smell a perfume should shock, and not necessarily in a good way, and then eventually work its way into your inner self, which is exactly what Turquoise did for me. I somehow knew that he would understand my experience.
House of Caron booth
Like a magpie to a jewel, I was drawn into the Caron booth, with its sparklies and urns. I smelled a lot of things, and came away dreaming of a bottle of L'Accord 119 someday. The booth was filled with gorgeous bottles. I found out that Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noël, and Fleures de Rocaille are available only in extrait now; no more Eau de Toilette (the EDT of Fleures de Rocaille is called Fleur de Rocaille).
Zoran Knezevich and Elena Knezhevich of Vagabond Prince
Vagabond Prince has two new fragrances out, Violet-tinged Swan Princess, and Land of Warriors, an interesting pomegranate and leather composition. Both are by Bertrand Duchaufour, like their original Enchanted Forest. The packaging, based on Russian art, is a lot of fun.
Mark Buxton and his partner Ana Estevane
Mark Buxton, who is really charming, showed me his new fragrance, Emotional Rescue, a fantastic vetiver-based perfume. He has made some great vetivers, including my personal favorite, Comme des Garçons Vetiverru, but this one he made just for himself. It is called Emotional Rescue, because when he puts it on when he is feeling tired or blue, he immediately feels much better.
Refillable flacons from Caron
I'm in a fun little pizzeria near the Peace Arch just behind the venue, having my first real food in at least a day (not sure airplane food counts), enjoying the lively conversations in a foreign tongue. It is unseasonably warm here and many people are lolling about in the hazy sun. This is my first adventure to Europe, and I am enjoying seeing buildings that look like they have a lot of history, and just soaking in the atmosphere. More to come!
-Tama Blough, Deputy Editor