Mark Behnke and Michael Edwards (my apologies for the bad photo)

Day three started off wonderfully with an interview with Michael Edwards conducted by Mark Behnke. Mr. Edwards is the man behind the astounding annual compendium of perfume, "Fragrances of the World". Standing next to a stunning and fragrant floral art piece created by Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora in Australia, whose floral creations are used in the book, he graced us with his story in a voice so mellifluous I could have listened for hours. He started out in the 1970s, a time when Charlie was the first perfume directly marketed to women (as opposed to the men who normally bought perfume for them), then Opium becoming a blockbuster, and with Giorgio proving to retailers that perfume was a core product as much as clothing. Realizing sales people had no language for perfume, he started with a simple guide to helping them communicate about perfume to their customers. His guide grew into a book that has helped thousands understand fragrance. He estimates that over his career, he has trained 60,000 people. With perfume releases per year climbing from a few dozen to a thousand or more in the last 30 years, he is kept busy. We heard some good news about another book he put together that is out of print, "Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances". A treasure trove of stories of the most classic perfumes told by the perfumers themselves, the book is being updated with a few modern classics like Fracas, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Feminité du Bois, and Philosykos. Anticipated arrival is 2015-16. I introduced myself and thanked him afterwards, and also caught up with him later, where he told me some people had come up to thank him with tears in their eyes. He is a lovely man.

Anaïs Biguine

After some lunch, it was back to perfume. Jardins D'Ecrivains, which bases their fragrances on famous authors, chose a particularly interesting one for their latest, Junky. Try to wrap your head around a scent for William Boroughs. Junky perfume is going to be interesting to wear, as it has some sharp edges wrapped around a rich heart. It's unique and definitely promising.

David Frossard of Differentes Latitudes for Liquides Imaginaires

Yesterday, I smelled a line called Liquides Imaginaires that struck a chord, but I couldn't find their rep. Today I lucked out and got samples and more info. There are two trilogies: one is spiritual, Sancti, Fortis, and Tumultuous; the other based on wines, Bello Arabella, Bloody Wood (favorite name so far this year), and Dom Rosa. The first trilogy is already headed to Barneys NY, so they are hot right out of the gate.

Prudence Kilgour

I had a good time visiting the lovely Prudence Kilgour of Prudence Paris. Her perfume line is huge. She even has a collection for kids, and the one I smelled was perfect. The booth became boisterous with guests and a visit from Mr. Edwards. Prudence and I bonded over bees: she has a piece of bee jewelry her father gave her that she has replicated onto some bottle designs, so I showed her the bee tattoo on my leg. She made everyone come look and asked why I was wearing a long skirt. I hesitated and she narrowed her eyes and said "politically correct?" I had to say pretty much. One never knows.

 

Ricardo Tedeschi

Then it was on to a booth I had been peering at for two days, Masque Milano. The line is theatrically inspired, with each perfume representing an act in an opera. Act 1 scene 1 is Terralaba, Act 1 scene 2 is Montecristo, act 2 Scene 1 is Luci ed Ombre, and their Act 3 scene 4, launching at the show, is Opera, composed by Cécile Zarokian. I have to say that there was an abundance of big spicy ambery oomphy sensual perfumes at Esxence, and Opera is one of them. Even my poor exhausted nose perked up, and I can't wait to wear it when I'm fresh. Act 1 scene 3, Russian Tea, will be launching next.

The nu_be crew, with Francesca Gotti in the middle and Alberto Borri on the right

My stamina was waning, but I had to stop at nu_be just because it looked so cool and there was an interestingly arty woman working the booth who turned out to be visual artist Francesca Gotti. I had seen her at the presentation by Mustafa Sabbagh on day one, and it turns out he did a video promotional piece for them. The fragrances are named after elements of the Periodic Table, and I love the packaging: the bottles are encased in gray styrofoam that you have to break to open, leaving a unique holder for the bottle. Anyway, although I wanted to talk to Francesca, we did not share a language. It happens. Esxence is a unique little Tower of Babel, with conversations going on in many tongues.

Silvio Levi and assistant

As I made my way back around to say farewell to my new friends, I ran into Esxence co-founder Silvio Levi, who took me to see his Nose perfume evaluation system. It's a way for you to find a great perfume based on what you wear, and what you like. You input some scents you wear or have worn, and it recommends five perfumes, which you are then given to sniff blind and then grade. Based on those, you are given more choices, and so on, until it narrows it down to a great perfume for yourself. Pretty neat.

Co-founders Elise Juarros and Rosa Vaia

My last stop was to say goodbye to the lovely ladies of Coquillete Paris, which is a great line. I reviewed their Tan-Tan not long ago, and I just wanted to say hello/goodbye, see their faces in real life, and wish them well.

La Triennale di Milano

Then it was out the door for the last time. The sky had darkened and it was raining, colorful umbrellas coming out to brighten the gloom. Although I am wiped out and wondering how to pack my swag safely, I am a bit sad to be leaving Milano just as I was getting used to it. It was fun being a regular commuter on the underground Metro, where people play Italian hits on various instruments on the train itself to make a bit of change. Milan is my first taste of Italy, and although it is not a big art city like Rome or Florence, it has its charms. Arrivederci, Milano!

Tama Blough, Deputy Editor

March 22, 2014