Preserving Vintage Fragrances as Cultural Icons (or the Trouble with IFRA) in English and Русский текст

 

 

I read the news a lot, and over the past few months have been bombarded with lovely Christmas stories, New Year’s celebrations etc. Christmas isn`t new and hasn’t been for 20 centuries (and the Russian Orthodox Church, celebrate on 7th of January).

 

 

 

 

So what caught my eye and tickled my nose?  It was an 18-20 of November event that the UNESCO Committee in Nairobi, Kenia that made Mediterranean diet, Flamenco and Falconry (and especiallyTurkish Kirkpinar oil wrestling) to be a part of UNESCO`s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The List was established in 2008 and now it includes 213 intangible cultural objects and traditions that  achieved  status  as Heritage of Humanity; there is Chinese acupuncture, Indian chhau dance, Aubusson tapestry… http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011

 

 

 

 

The list includes Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding. By now you are asking, why should this interest perfume enthusiasts? Because of IFRA The Almighty Regulator (or maybe The Official Destroyer), my friends. Every perfume aficionado knows about its role in modern perfume industry. Every perfumaniac knows that classic chypres are endangered species due to genuine Bergamot oil and Oakmoss absolute restrictions made by IFRA.

 

 

 

 

Many people miss the now rare formulations of Mitsouko and Miss Dior extraits, the nostalgic beauty of Apres l`Ondee and Dioressence parfums, and the perfume hallmarks Vol de Nuit and Tabac Blonde. There`re quite a lot classic perfume 'artifacts' that form the Perfume Heritage of Humanity. Osmotheque keeps thousands of them.

 

All of them should be saved.

 

 

 

Not only in perfume museum Osmotheque (Versailles) – to remember these gems is good, but to wear them in their splendid primordial form should be perfect. Chypre Coty or En Avion Caron, Vol de Nuit Guerlain or even Chanel No. 5 – and those are a few examples!

 

I wonder – how many old gems do YOU want to see back on the shelves? All the 'mourning' of discontinued and vintage perfumes is valid in my opinion. Almost every perfume aficionado has his own crown gem in vintage version, and usually prefers vintages to moderns. There were so many reformulations in past years that it`s hard to follow all the capricious differences of every classic perfume.

 

 

 

Should I mention examples? OK, vintage Dioressence parfum, that ambery spicy beauty, is so far from its modern green chypre version, that they belongs to different perfume families. Name is the same, but perfumes from 70`s and 00`s are completely different. I could remind you some nostalgic stories about The Mommy Smell – in Russia those were Magie Noire, Diorella, Fidji, Climat, and so on.

 

I believe that distinguished historical Houses like Guerlain, Chanel, Caron, Houbigant, Lubin, 4711, Jean Patou and\or their owners should begin to unite all over Europe and to consult with legal experts now to make classic perfumes Perfume Heritage of Humanity as sacrosanct as Catalan Castellers, Azerbaijan Carper Weaving, and Mexican Day of Dead. Here are the criterias: http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=173

 

Perfume fits perfectly.

 

 

 

I for one will support the efforts by every possible way, just give me a wink. Are you with me? I hope that one day we`ll see something special in the news. I`m not sure that UNESCO and classic perfumes will appear together in one sentence, but I hope so.

 

I definitely would love to hear one day that some perfumes become an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity at last.

 

That`s why I`ll continue to watch news & read blogs  waiting for a sign .

 

Sergey Borisov, Contributor

 

Editor's Note: if you are with Sergey leave a comment on which perfume you would like to see preserved as a cultural icon. For me it is Femme by Edmond Roudnitska * (in Russian or English)

 

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Без новостей никуда, они везде настигнут.

 

Что в последнее время радовало Вас в новостях? Кроме забавных животных, Деда Мороза и Рождества? Рождество не новость уже более 20 веков (к тому же, русская православная церковь постоянно опаздывает к католическому рождеству на пару недель).

Что порадовало меня?

Новости из Найроби, от 18-20 ноября уже прошлого года, где на своем очередном межправительственном комитете ЮНЕСКО было принято важное решение.

Средиземноморская кухня, танец фламенко, соколиная охота, пряничное дело Северной Хорватии были включены в Список Культурного Наследия Человечества под эгидой ЮНЕСКО. Этот список появился на свет в 2008 году и, ежегодно дополняясь, теперь включает в себя 213 культурных традиций. Нематериальное Наследие Человечества – это и акупунктура, и вышивки, и ковры, и особые танцы. Вот список:  

http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=00011

В этом списке есть и Наследие, Нуждающееся в Срочном Сохранении! (Очевидно, его скоро забудут) 

Теперь читатели парфюмерного блога уже спрашивают сами себя – а парфюмерного в этом что? Почему это может быть интересно парфюмерной душе? Потому что есть Всемогущий Регулятор IFRA (он же Официальный Разрушитель Парфюмерного Наследия.

Каждый любитель ароматов знает о роли IFRA в современной парфюмерии. Об исчезновении настоящих классических шипров с лица Земли вследствие запрета IFRA на чистое масло бергамота и на содержание абсолюта дубового мха в духах.

Сколько людей с грустью вспоминают те, настоящие французские духи: шипры Mitsouko и Miss Dior, печальные Apres l`Ondee и Dioressence, парфюмерные вехи Vol de Nuit и Tabac Blonde. Вообще довольно много легендарных ароматов в XX веке, которые могли бы образовать собой Парфюмерное Культурное Наследие Человечества. В версальской Осмотеке, наверное, около двух тысяч таких ароматов.

И все эти ароматы можно и нужно спасать

И не только за стенами Осмотеки, которая по сути музейная форма спасения. Помнить о прошлом хорошо, но пользоваться ароматами в их первоначальной неизмененной форме, которая была задумана парфюмерами, это должно быть превосходно! Вернуть ароматы молодости нашим мамам и бабушкам!

Chypre Coty и En Avion Caron, Sous le Vent Guerlain или даже Chanel #5 – и это лишь мои примеры! Мне интересно – сколько шедевров прошлого ВЫ хотели бы снова вернуть на полки магазинов? По мне, все слезы по снятым с производства и измененным ароматам вполне обоснованны. У любого парфманьяка в коллекции есть самый-самый аромат в винтажной версии. И очень часто современной версии предпочитают винтажные духи. За последние годы было столько переформулировок ароматов, что становится непросто отслеживать все эти изменения и связывать их с годами выпуска – но есть и такие люди. По каждому любимому аромату.

 

Примеры? ОК, старые духи Dioressence, амбровопряный аромат, настолько отличаются от современного аромата (зеленый шипр), что они находятся в разных семействах. Общее у них лишь название, духи 70-х и 00-х совершенно разные. А сколько ностальгии связаны с мамиными духами? В России (и бывших республиках СССР) это были Magie Noire, Diorella, Fidji, Climat, и пр.

 

Я думаю, что такие уважаемые исторические парфюмерные Дома, как Guerlain, Chanel, Caron, Houbigant, Lubin, 4711, Jean Patou и\или их владельцы могли бы задуматься об объединении их интересов в сохранении своего парфюмерного исторического наследия в неизменной форме не только в Музее-Осмотеке, но и на полках своих флагманских бутиков. Пора поставить задачу пиарщикам и юристам, официальным лицам и общественным организациям – как сделать классические ароматы такими же священными и неизменными, как каталанские башни из людей, азербайджанское ковроткачество и мексиканский день мертвых. Объединить всё в единую заявку от лица, допустим, европейских парфюмеров.

Вот, кстати, критерии.

http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/index.php?lg=en&pg=173

По-моему, классические ароматы ничему не противоречат.

Лично я поддержу усилия юристов и парфюмеров всеми возможными способами, только дайте знать. А Вы, дорогие читатели? Если да, то надеюсь, что однажды мы увидим в новостях нечто особенно важное. Не уверен, что легендарные ароматы и ЮНЕСКО прозвучат вместе в одном предложении, но надеюсь на это. 

Я хочу однажды услышать в новостях, что ароматы стали, наконец, на юнесковском суконном языке, Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Нематериальное культурное наследие человечества.

Поэтому – продолжаем смотреть новости и читать блоги. В ожидании знака.

 

 

 

 

Сергей Борисов, контрибьютор

 

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29 comments

  • Armando Martinez says:

    I want Tabac Blond Caron and Mitsouko Guerlain to not to be further destroyed as they have been. I would hate to see even more late 20th century classics as Aromatics Elixir Clinique ruined by taking out all of the oakmoss that fragrance has. I would love to have Coty's original Chypre saved and preserved as well. The original version was quite a beauty to behold compared to the late 90's re-release which, in all honestly, was a nice scent too but quite different than the original version from the 50's/60's, of which I own a bottle of both vintages. 
    The chypre category is my most favored category of them all and it's because of the oakmoss that's being hacked away by the f%$&%$&%$#%^#$ IFRA!!!! 

  • I miss almost all classic Carons, Diors and Guerlains.
    Not only oakmoss restrictions has tragic consequences, by the way. Apres l`Ondee could not be made in extrait form too – and it has no deal with oakmoss…
    I believe that UNESCO could be a counterbalance to IFRA in that way.

  • Well, you already mentioned Femme and Mitsouko and Tabac Blond, so I'd add L'Origan and L'Heure Bleue! They are a European Heritage, and need to be preserved as much as possible. Oh, and how could I forget Bandit??

  • I want "Coco" by Chanel back… It has changed, for sure, and I regret so much the original version. I would add some Guerlain too, most of all "Habit rouge" which must be preserved !
    Welcome on board, Sergey !

  • Emmanuelle, thank you!
    I haven`t knew that Coco Chanel was reformulated… It`s great pity as it`s not so old. 🙁
    As for Habit Rouge – that`s so true. I cherish my bottle Habit Rouge (C) 1985 since 1992.

  • Coty is American now, but at the time L'Origan, L'Aimant, and Chypre came out, it was a French firm, and certainly the vintage perfumes belong to the French tradition. I believe M. Coty was at one point the richest man in France, though he himself was Corsican, like Napoleon! 🙂
    It does bring up interesting legal issues when the old perfume and company belonged to one nation, and the new ones of the same name, are completely different composition and ownership.  Only the names remain the same. Hmmm…

  • Hats off to you for not only raising awareness of this issue again, but suggesting a legitimate "get out of jail" card for the vintage greats.  In my view, vintage Magie Noire (whose passing you also lament) is worth much more than the Hopping Procession of Echternach.  (With apologies to any Luxembourgians who may be reading.)

  • Suzanne Wlaschin says:

    I want them ALL brought back!  So, how to we start the process of bringing this issue to the attention of UNESCO???

  • Somerville Metro Man says:

    This is a very unique solution and perhaps more workable than the suggestion to label the fragrances with restricted ingredients "Not For Human Use".

  • Vanessa, as happy owner of vintage bottle Magie Noire I do feel you 🙂 Hopefully some lawyers will make some official procedure for that.

  • SMM, your solution is also clever and quite quick in realisation. 🙂 I believe in World Tour of Osmotheque (isn`t it as great as last world tour of some ols rock group?) through all the countries and continents.

  • Suzanne, please read about that on UNESCO official site. Process should be initiated by governments, or groups, or communities – or even individuals!
    "In nomination files, the submitting State(s) Party(ies) is (are) requested to demonstrate that an element proposed for inscription on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity satisfies all of the following criteria:

    R.1 The element constitutes intangible cultural heritage as defined in Article 2 of the Convention.
    R.2 Inscription of the element will contribute to ensuring visibility and awareness of the significance of the intangible cultural heritage and to encouraging dialogue, thus reflecting cultural diversity worldwide and testifying to human creativity.
    R.3 Safeguarding measures are elaborated that may protect and promote the element.
    R.4 The element has been nominated following the widest possible participation of the community, group or, if applicable, individuals concerned and with their free, prior and informed consent.
    R.5 The element is included in an inventory of the intangible cultural heritage present in the territory(ies) of the submitting State(s) Party(ies), as defined in Article 11 and Article 12 of the Convention."

  • Oh, Sergey, I'm with you.  Oh, but to pick one?  (Ponders…)
    Perhaps…oh, could they bring back Djedi?  Is that impossible now, would nobody know quite how?
    If not that, then…the original Coty Chypre?  (or Millot Crepe de Chine?)
     
    So sad, the reality of Apres L'Ondee.

  • Amazing post! Right to the point!
    Too long the list of all the classics I wish I could have back on the shelves in their original formula, just to name few brands all the classic Chanel, Guerlain, Caron, Coty, Lanvin etc…
    Fortunately we have at least a great memory for the future generations at the Osmotheque!

  • Coming back in to say I missed Vanessa's point about "vintage" / original formulation Magie Noire, a thought which set my head to nodding in vigorous concurrence.  

  • Along with Michelyn, I truly want the original Femme back.  That said, I want IFRA to go away on this issue, just go away.  They've bungled everything. Oh, same to the EU! Silly rules, destructive rules, bad science.

  • What a wonderful article and thank you! for taking up the cause for Vintage perfume formulation remaining intact.  It *is* a cultural inheritance and I hate to think of a world without these masterpieces (and the masterpieces yet to come).  Thank you, thank you!

  • I'm with you!
    I think there might be some "allergy-free" versions of the popular perfumes (if companies choose to make them) and warning labels on the rest. But unless any of the ingredients (in the quantities used in perfumery) are proven to cause death, severe poisoning or birth deffects I do not want them to be excluded.

  • Liza, I`m not a lawyer.
    And I`m not a community leader with fluet juridical English.
    Somehow we should make a text following UNESCO style, discuss it in perfume communities (FB, MUA, LJ, blogosphere), and then send it to UNESCO.

  • Anya, me either. But as regulating body of all BIG perfume players, it won`t go away. They should be counterbalanced by UNESCO, me thinks