Perview: Our Fragrant Future is at Stake- Five Perfumers Speak Out

Salvatore Dali: Premonition of Civil War 

 

Some of us hear the sound of a thousand hoofbeats … and experience tells us that it is not the sound of zebras nor antelopes nor giraffes. It is the stampede of horses we expected; for perfume lovers worldwide…the cavalry is here. And they are organized. They have declared war on our 8th art.

 

 

As an avid advocate of fine fragrance, I  have raised this subject over and over  in my writings for other magazines, during the past 4 year. I have emailed,  discussed and urged industry leaders in fine fragrance, (both natural and blended) to collaborate, get organized and  FIGHT this growing mass hysteria to ban perfumes in the USA and  Canada. It is spreading like an epidemic…soon it will reach Europe. It is a plague  of ignorance. Don't believe me?  Type in perfume ban on Google… My throat caught at 15 pages… I was afraid to continue…

Today is a special day for Cafleurebon; it is our 3rd month anniversary and we thank over 5,500  unique visitors who  read us. We would like our magazine to continue  to grow, but  unless this issue is adressed we may not be celebrating in a few years.

 

After my article "Perfume…The New Second Hand Smoke?" appeared on  March  23, 2010  

https://cafleurebon.com//perfume-the-new-second-hand-smoke/   (ironically written as we celebrate our three month anniversary)  hundreds of new anti-fragrance articles and blog posts have appeared. I put out an open letter to twenty perfumers on this subject.  Here are the thoughts of five perfumers about the future of fine fragrance.

 

Photo: Courtesy of  Michel Roudnitska

 

"If the fragrance industry truly desires to get through the serious crisis it is facing, which is economic, ecological and ethical, it must be prepared to introduce new ethical principles on four levels:

1.  Supplying raw materials by preserving the biodiversity and developing fair trade and commerce with indigenous people involved in fragrance

2.  Recognition and acknowledgment of the true perfumers who are behind the brand and the establishment of “copyright” for the composer of perfume (as in all other arts)

3. Respect for consumers by providing clear and factual information pertaining to the quality and to the risks of the raw materials used in the compositions and the same time defending past and present -fragrant masterpieces against excessive regulations of IFRA

4. There must be a reduction of the number of “clone” perfumes launched each year, cluttering the market. Fine fragrance must concentrate and focus on true creative and qualitative creations with an authentic approach bringing real meaning and spiritual value to perfumery "- Michel Roudnitska, Art-et-Parfum

 

Photo: Courtesty of Vero Kern

 

"Natural aroma chemicals are chemicals.

Synthetic aroma chemicals are also chemicals.

Chemicals are chemicals and the sense of smell and the sense of taste are both chemical senses.

 

Synthetic versus naturals in perfume is here not the question! In my opinion it’s the huge quantity in the use of Aroma Chemicals in cleaning products, cosmetics, food and medicines. The problem is very complex and I vote for competent information for empowered consumers spread by sophisticated journalists and scientists.

 

For those who are seriously interested in the topic, I strongly recommend the excellent article written by Helen Greenwood in the Sydney Morning Herald on June 12, 2008. 

http://www.smh.com.au/news/beauty/how-green-is-your-spritz/2008/06/11/1212863695450.html

 

Still topical!

 

You will also find perfectly informing perfume articles in Time magazine. "  

http://tinyurl.com/2vo2kv6

 

  Vero Kern, vero.profumo. CH-Zurich

 

Photo: Courtesy of Laurie Erickson

 

"I hope solutions to these issues will be found through moderation and education. People need to learn how to apply scent with more consideration to those around them and how to alternate fragrance so they don’t unknowingly overdose scents they wear frequently.  People also need to learn that they have more options than the perfumes they find at department stores and to understand how much fragrance exposure comes from functional products.   Both naturals and synthetics may be lost if a campaign of fear and misinformation leads to fragrance bans.  We need less misinformation and more education, science, and cooperation . – Laurie Erickson, Sonoma Scent Studio

 

Photo Courtesy of Liz Zorn

" We live in a world where Fine Perfume is lumped into the same category as products having little or nothing to do with perfumery, other than the fact that they give off scent. Most of this is so far removed from where I am as a perfumer, I can hardly relate. My day to day involves a 100% hands on operation, from formulating, to blending to batching and bottling. In my boutique I answer the same questions over and over, yet am always excited to see folks come through the door. There is something magical about the Artistry of Scent. I wish more people really GOT IT, and were able to experience perfumery as the beautiful art form that it is."-  Liz Zorn, Soivohle

 

 

Photo: Courtesy of Gerlad Ghislain

"The matter is the desire of a society without any risks. Perfumery is an art which must not lose it soul, it essential purpose that is to create emotions. The hygienist reign attempts to kill it by wreathing it. What will people wear tomorrow? A glimpse of mineral water maybe…it's pathetic. I will always fight against a sanitized and completely clean world where nothing would disturb the rest. The only thing I want to say is that I have an inmense respect for humans and nature, my intention is not to intoxicate people but to make them dream, to tell stories, to move them deeply with scents. Our fragrances are created with care for people." Gerald Ghislain, Histoires de Parfums

 

No gimmicks, no giveaways, no joke.

 –  Michelyn Camen, Editor-in Chief 

Editor's Note: Cafleurebon is a member of The Natural  Perfumer's Guild, but I cannot share certain information, but Anya McCoy, the Guild President has addressed her concerns with fellow members…

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15 comments

  • So sad. If the fragrance industry wasn't hell bent on scenting everything from garbage bags to floor polish we might not have this problem right now. It isn't fine fragrance, per se, that's causing the allergic reactions IMO. It's the build up of the *overuse* of scented chemicals in too many products, over time, that's causing the problem. If I had to choose, which I no longer have the luxury of, I would rather wear perfume on my wrist than smear it on my floor.

  • My child had a brain tumor and it was diagnosed early, therefore it could be taken out surgically.     Talking with other mothers of children with brain tumors, I realized how lucky we were with our quick diagnosis.    One mom was told "It was the fragrance in their laundry soap, etc, that caused her child's  headaches".   At least one year later  the doctor ran & analyzed correctly the test (MRI) for a tumor diagnosis.     The doctor apologized for his diagnosis of allergy to fragrance.    Thankfully, the child  has survived.  

  • First I am so glad your child is well. that is the most important. There is so much misinformation… this is the issue …. word of mouth hysteria.

  • Perfume is not the issue. Perfume everywhere is. Let's take a closer look how most costmetics are now composed nowadays, let's take shampoo as an example:
    – garage cleaner (very aggressive) called Sodium Laureate (or similar) – ultra cheap
    – skin narcotic, to stop the skin from becoming read called Cocamidopropyl betaine (or similar) – cheap
    – Perfum to mask the scent of the garage cleaner and provide some attractiveness
    It doesn't matter, if the shampoo costs 1USD per bottle or 50 USD per bottle, if not organic (e.g. Aubrey Organics is a TRUE exemption!) it is cheap chems plus masking perfume.
    I love a drop of perfume each other day. But I completely reject washing powder, soap, shampoo, plastics, cars, everything all the time being mixed with perfume. Especially the polycyclic musks are a real thread, since they (nearly) don't decompose.
    Perfume – yes. Perfume everywhere – please no. And, yes, stop the perfume cloning too!


  • You know, it's funny… In 53 years I don't remember one single case of anyone at anytime ever having a problem whatsoever at all with cologne or perfume, save for wrinkling the nose when an occasional grandmother would pass by with a ton of Avon on.  This perfume thing is hysteresis, pure, plane, and simple.  It does not exist.  This only got started in the past few years and now we have people claiming they had to go to emergency rooms because they caught a whiff of perfume…  Purely absurd! If they're that sensitive to perfume how about cleaning solutions; auto exhaust; dust; natural allergens; building smells; and a hundred other environmental variables.  Bullcrap!  This is all about control…  Again, why now?  In Europe, people think we're crazy.  Imagine trying to live in France??? This stupid perfume hysteria is a fad – just another way for people with no life to try and exert control over others.  We are not meant to all be the same – identical bricks molded into one monolithic wall.  A little deodorant or some classy perfume if highly desirable to stinking armpits and smelling like cave people! Come on people – wise up!  The vast majority of Americans agree… 

  • Christine I remember restaurants and bar banned “poison and giorgio” in the 80s. but this is really too far. they are organized and the industry doesn’tseem to fight back ONLY IN AMERICA

  • Thank you for addressing this important issue! I feel that as a society we have become disconnected from our senses/emotions and are paranoid in general.  We are afraid to FEEL things deeply, so we sanitize our environment. Perfume is also an easy scapegoat for the illnesses that are resulting from the rampant toxic pesticide/herbicide cocktails that are used extensively in our food production.  This is a highly complex subject, but I think it's time to really speak up for this 8th Art before it gets swirled into a fray and blamed for things for which it is not responsible. 

  • Sadly, if perfumes specifically are banned I don't think that would diminish the number of aroma chemical used in scenting our toilet paper, our cleaning products, etc. Thanks for speaking out Michelyn and everyone. 

  • As a Couture Natural Perfumer.. I would not want perfumes banned…no way. 
    I love creating my perfumes and making them available to the world.  If fragrance went away totally there would be a serious gap.

    Do I like synthetic scents in everything from air freshener, laundry detergents, cleaning products? No absolutely not.  I have to go to extremes to buy products that do not have extra fragrances added.  I get headaches, and allergic reactions to the synthetic chemicals.  That is why I became a natural perfumer.. so I and my clients could wear the natural fragrances without having headaches and eyes watering.
    I do remember the time of Giorgio, smoking on airlines, and all of the horrible smells we cannot escape.  I do not have the answer…but banning fine fragrance completely is not the answer. 

  • scentual healing says:

    I am new to your site and just read this on face book. no one is taking away my perfume… ps i wear both natural and  synthetics. I also googled perfume pan and it is really ridiculous esp in  us and canada.  I don't have an answer but I admire the  perfumers  for speaking out.PS  I love  all the perfumes   of the 5 perfumers…

  • I am not a person of big words, but in all aspects of our lives we need to get back to "Basics"……..starts with becoming aware of the pollution and garbage we put out. I believe in trying to stick with natural, but i also do use synthetic. I think perfumes is not what is making us sick i think its the mis-use of Mother Earth and the pollution we apply upon her. Do i believe that products are over fragrance'd, items like garbage bags, air freshners, laundry soaps, dish soaps, hand soaps, shampoos…..i also do get reactions from some items i use.  I love fragrances, they make me happy and i would hate to see them being banned.

  • I don't even know where to begin, but I can say that I think it's all sad and idiotic on so many different levels.  Fragrance (no matter how produced) is a part of everyone and everything's heritage.  It's this simple concept that has taken the U.S. by storm.  Too many industries are fragrancing too many things too heavily and it is bastardizing the whole of olfactory art all together.  Many industries could easily help quell this mess by simply toning down fragrancing everything to kingdom come so heavily!  I don't need "new fresher spring fresh" (or whatever) scented tissues, garbage bags, air freshener, etc..  Unfortunately, these companies/manufacturers see a huge market in "smelling good" and the allure and glamour of what perfume itself WAS has a lot to do with that -from marketing to advertising and, inevitably, the corporate image.  In my opinion, this whole mentality  has gotten to the point of being absurd.   Worst of all, when everything is fragranced so much (with very similar chemicals going into many commercial perfumes) and filling the air so heavily with more frequency, it's CHEAPENING AND DESTROYING the whole ART of enjoying a personal fine fragrance.  Very sad indeed.  This can not be allowed to happen.  However, the entirety of the problem is so massive and complex that an easy answer is not probable.  Do I see an all out ban?  No way, there is no way that could happen economically speaking.  If they push it, well I suppose we will have to ban flowers, trees, grass, and everything else God gave us to enjoy because a few people say it bothers them.  Ridiculous.  The sad fact is, no matter what it maybe, somebody is going to have something to say about.  it and they are going to make their voices heard come what may regardless of what anyone has to say about it.  They have a right to speak against it, but where does the right end?  I hate to say this, but it seems that "caring" and "freedom" has turned to greed in so many examples in the United States.  Of this, I am truly disgusted

  • I hate that "Mob Mentality" towards anything. People start to panic and nearly always it is the WRONG answer to a problem. Are we next going to cut down trees because of tree moss?? Or kill bees because of bee pollen? How about stripping the earth of grasses and weeds? Don't they cause allergies? Reminds me of a lynch mob. Perfume is an art form and should be honored as such.
     

  • I can state specifically that at my workplace a spray is used to “eliminate” odor, and it is supposed to not have a scent. Well, uh, yes, it does have synthetic fragrance designed to contain larger molecules that block smaller molecules.

    So, that fancy schmancy spray that many think eliminates odors only covers them.
    After I swore I thought I smelled fragrance from the supposed “unfragranced” formula, I did research and found how these products are made and how they are supposed to work. Frankly, it smells like a roll of scented toilet paper.

    Ever smell a brand new house? You are smelling toxins from the paint, carpet, and anything plastic. Those chemicals are more likely to sicken people than a well-prepared parfum. And dealerships will spray “that new car smell” inside their cars. We are literally flooded with scent, from the fast food places venting fried burger smell into the outside air, to the our hospitals.

    Is it any wonder so many have chemical sensitivities. And it’s not from any fine fragrance. It’s usually from detergents, odor “eliminators” and construction.