Perfume Review: Le Labo Patchouli 24 (Annick Ménardo) + Fahrenheit 451 Draw

 

François Truffaut  Farhenheit 451 Oskar Werner Julie Christie

François Truffaut’s 1966 film starred Oskar Werner and Julie Christie

In François Truffaut’s 1966 film version of Ray Bradbury’s sci-fi masterpiece Fahrenheit 451, the image of black uniformed ‘fireman’ Guy Montag, played by Oskar Werner watching books ignite, blacken, curl and burn is how I perceive this most confrontational and sensational adaptation of patchouli. I often wonder if I actually love or hate this scent, it can have such a polarising effect on my senses. Days are I love its thick medicinal fug and other days it makes me dizzy, tipping my brain into a hollow place, where my eyes flex and the notes beat at my temples. But whatever my take, Annick Ménardo’s massive scent for Le Labo is really atmospheric scent telling.

Annick Ménardo is one of my favourite perfumers, responsible for a wide range of designer and niche scents but most importantly for The Silver Fox, three of my all time obsessive skin scents, three bottles that are never out of my collection; Hypnotic Poison by Dior, Bulgari Black and the original Lolita Lempicka Le Parfum, all hugely influential compositions with individuality and seductive iconic status.  Add in Bois d’Arménie for Guérlain, the wonderfully anisic Body Kouros for YSL, Bois d’Argent for Dior and the hugely successful Fuel for Life for Diesel, you have an unassuming parfumeuse of eclectic power.

burningbooks

Burning Books by TSF

She also authored this burning wasteland of a scent, Patchouli 24 in 2006 for  a new hipster indie house Le Labo. When Le Labo was launched in 2006 by  Creative Directors Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi, the whole laboratory concept was pretty cool and edgy, on the right side of kitsch. The guys have worked with some the world’s leading independent noses including Yann Vasnier, Francoise Caron, Barnabe Fillion, Maurice Roucel,  Mark Buxton and  Frank Voelkl formulating a collection of highly influential designer art scents with single note names (such as Rose 31, Ambrette 9, Santal 33) being an indication to the dominant compositional ingredients. Over the past six years, the brand has become more accessible in distribution but the formulae themselves, a mixed bag of crowd-pleasing effect and serious perfumery are often subversively beautiful.

siberianforestfire

Siberian Winter Forest on Fire by TSF

I adore Daphne Bugey’s Lys 41 and Maurice Roucel’s powdery Labdanum 18 is a favourite of mine but Annick Ménardo’s gutsy celebration of rampant vanillic decay does take quite some beating. On first pungent sniff, it smells of no patchouli at all, just a huge searing blast of birch tar like a Siberian winter forest on fire. I smell the death of books and paper in the dark swirl of styrax and rubbered vanilla, the patchouli seems furtive, loitering in the shadows like a murderer before striking with brutal force.

julie christie 1966 farenheit 451

Julie Christie in Farenheit 451 (re-imaged-MC)

Many patchouli scents come across as vaguely sleepy, easy-going types, kinda sexy, warm and fuzzy. Patchouli 24 does not. It attacks air and fetishises skin with a compelling mix of rooty come-hither sex and smoky bruise. You know though, it does pack quite a punch, there are moments in the day as I’m wrapped in its rather tenacious hold, it can make me suddenly dizzy; these moments pass but there are linked to the often sudden waves of birch and styrax that seem to rise off the skin like startled game, rushing my senses and temporarily disorientating me. It is divisive darkness. There are days I almost cannot bear the cured ham & ice cream power of Ménardo’s dense elixir.

burningbed

Burning Bed -TSF

Other times I will drench skin and sheets with it and dream the sleep of the damned in a haze of twisted animalics and bleak vanilla. Everyone with an interest in scent should at least try this idiosyncratic and cryptic portrait of the personality of patchouli.  There are echoes of smoky, erratic oddity throughout the oeuvre of Annick Ménardo, it is an interesting exercise to sample her fragrances side by side and savour her ability to create pockets of anisic shadow amid fumes and sweetness. Le Labo Patchouli 24 is a challenging wear for some, pure unadulterated pleasure for others.  What holds true throughout though is the sheer feral beauty of such brave and confrontational perfumery.

 Disclosure – From my own collection

  –The Silver Fox, Senior Editor and Author of The Silver Fox

le labo patchouli 24 10 ml

Thanks to our friends at  Le Labo Fragrances we have a 10 ml travel spray of Patchouli 24 for any reader in the EU, US or Canada. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what "ignited" you about TSF review, where you live and if you have a favorite Le Labo Fragrance. Draw closes 1/15/15.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

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37 comments

  • Every time I smell Patchouli 24 – and since I don’t own a bottle, that happens much too rarely – I am reminded of what made me fall in love with the art of perfumery: the power to weave our visceral reactions into the most intricate and subtle olfactory landscapes. It’s nothing like a phoenix rising from ashes. More like a a painted bunting rising from a bonfire. I love your description of the dizzying punch this perfume packs. But to me the most mesmerizing thing about it is the warm, comforting glow that never ceases to shine through the perfume’s more brutal facets.

    I live in New York, and my favorite Le Labo fragrance is by far Patchouli 24.

  • Thrilled I ran across this article. I love these kind of fragrances. Your description almost sound like your skin would smoke with one spritz. Must try. I love all La Lebo fragrances but have grow fond of New York Tubereuse 40 lately. Thanks for a great draw. In the USA.

  • I’m on the search for a patchouli that works for me. It sounds like this scent is a bit unique, and I’m drawn by this line in particular: Everyone with an interest in scent should at least try this idiosyncratic and cryptic portrait of the personality of patchouli. I’ve yet to try a Le Labo. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • breathesgelatin says:

    cured ham + ice cream!! wow. that is definitely the most fascinating aspect of this review. I live in the US. My favorite Le Labo thus far is the dearly departed Aldehyde 44. 🙁

  • I love the spare dry edge of the Le Labos I’ve tried. My favorite is Cuir 28 but Patch 24 is one I have wanted to try. The description of a really sexy smoky scent was guaranteed to get my attention. I’m in the U.S. thanks!

  • I have never tried a Le Labo fragrance and would love to start with this one because I loved everything about this illuminating review.
    Hypnotic Poison, Lolita Lempicka, and Bulgari Black are in my collection and I did not realize all three are by Annick Menardo!!! I am in the US,

  • I think Mr. Fox nailed it by referring to Patchouli 24 as a portrait of patchouli’s personality. My favorite Le Labo is Oud 27.

    Thanks for the draw. I am in the US.

  • I love patchouli, a challenging but very passionate fragrance note. I also have all three mentioned scents as staples in my wardrobe. Never tried any Le Labo, thus I wish I had an opportunity. I am in EU, Slovakia. Thanks

  • Patchouli is one of those materials that is instantly recognizable. Camphorous, earthy, sweet and resinous. I can never grow tired of the wonderful aroma. In fact, I have a 10% dilution of the oil in perfumer’s alcohol that I wear religiously. I have heard and read of bloggers’ impressions of Le Labo’s other notorious scents ie. Rose 31, Oud 27 and they have fueled numerous “hype trains” around the globe. This isn’t the case for Patchouli 24. I have not read nor viewed any review of this hidden gem; perhaps is isn’t as popular as the others in the Le Labo line-up. I love how TSF’s inpression of Patchouli 24 ” It is divisive darkness. There are days I almost cannot bear the cured ham & ice cream power of Ménardo’s dense elixir.” I’m not sure of the cured ham and ice cream aspect but I would love to smell Ménardo’s interpretation.
    I am in the US and my favorite Le Labo scent thus far is Rose 31.

  • What really draw my attention is TSF’s words is his description of Le Labo Patchouli 24 as a perfume made for people with an interest in scent because of its nature “idiosyncratic and cryptic portrait of the personality of patchouli”.
    A patchouli scent which is not an easy-going kind of smell, sexy, warm and fuzzy. Patchouli 24 is a compelling mix of rooty sex and smoky bruise.
    “You know though, it does pack quite a punch, there are moments in the day as I’m wrapped in its rather tenacious hold, it can make me suddenly dizzy” What a review I can even smell it by this description and only ….
    My favorite Le Labo is Vanille 44 and I live in EU.

  • I think I’m up to the challenge of a “bleak vanilla”! I’m very much conflicted about Le Labo. I fell in deep like with Poivre 23 at Liberty of London a few years ago and decided to purchase — my credit card was charged before I found out it was twice the price of the other bottles (a fact that was NOT communicated to me by the SA; like I should have known automatically? believe me, I know much more now), so I returned it. Way too dear for a scent that disappeared on me all too quickly. If I need a Nathalie Lorson fix I’ll go for Encre Noire, thank you very much. Anyhoo, I’d love to sample the Patch 24, and I live in the US!

  • I am very fond of patchouli, an intense fragrance note. This perfume must smell really amazing. What I found really interesting in TSF review is the mentioning of :
    “Everyone with an interest in scent should at least try this idiosyncratic and cryptic portrait of the personality of patchouli”
    I have never tried any Le Labo so I wish I am given the opportunity.
    I live in EU.

  • I love patchouli in it’s pure form. Le Labo Patchouli fragrance seems very different than other takes on patchouli. TSF makes it sound challenging, but I sure would like to try it. My absolute favorite Le Labo scent is Labdanum. I just love it! I live in the Netherlands. Thanks for the draw!

  • Two things in the review got me to post here: the word “feral” and the picture of the burning bed. You’ve got me interested, Silver Fox.

    I am in the US, and I’ve not sampled a lot from this house yet. I tried Ylang 49, and it was not my kind of thing at all. But I plan to explore Le Labo more in 2015, so the folks at Barney’s can plan to see me again soon!

  • usually I do not like patchouli but this wonderful review has me interested. I am a big Le Labo Fan: faves are labdanum, gaiac, lys and ylang. I live in the us. thank you.

  • I have always had a fondness for patchouli, and yes, it can be challenging…” Le Labo Patchouli 24 is a challenging wear for some, pure unadulterated pleasure for others. ” I am ready for the pleasure, and would love to win this! I love the photo of the burning bed! Great review! I live in the US. Thanks!

  • i love Annick Menardo’s work but didn’t know that Patchouli 24 was her creation too! ‘Siberian winter’ forest on fire is a perfect description of this smouldering beauty.

    actually Patchouli 24 is in my top 3 of Le Labo, together with Iris 39 and Labdanum 18 and i would love to win it.

    I am in the EU.

  • Interesting review. I heard a lot about Le Labo fragrances, but I had never tried yet.
    I’m from Europe.

  • rivercitylizzy says:

    Darling TSF, you had me at “Ray Bradbury,” then you kept me in the grip of both tantalizing anticipation and a delicate shudder of horror at the thought of walking around in the dying breath of hundreds of burning books. A beautiful and terrible rendering, indeed, and now I am eager to try Patchouli 24!

    I am in the US. Mahalo for the draw!

  • Everything TSF writes ignites my interest in scent!! That said, this sounds oh so intriguing. I want to check out the ¨medicinal fog¨ – for some unknown reason I really enjoy scents that have a medicinal vibe to them. My fave Le Labo is Benjoin 19. In the US. Cheers!

  • Ignited by —–> “It attacks air and fetishises skin with a compelling mix of rooty come-hither sex and smoky bruise.” 🙂 I haven’t smelled any Le Labo to have a favorite. USA

  • This was a great combination of words and pictures. My favourite Le Labo is Poivre 23 and I am in the UK

  • Hello,

    I was so pleased to read this review, as it made me look at a small sample I’ve had of Patchouli 24 in a whole new way. Well said! I live in NYC, and as of now, I think that Patchouli 24 is my favorite LL; I had a bottle of the Bergamot several years ago but it didn’t challenge me the way that this one does.

    Cheers!

  • I like Labdanum 18 although it is a lineal scent , I don’t know the rest of this brand. What I like of this Patchouli 24 scent it is that is not an easy-going fragance , then I would like to try it. I,m in EU.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    First of all, TSF review has ignited in me the desire to watch Fahrenheit 451. It is also tempting that this was made by Annick Menardo who again didn’t hesitate to break the boundaries as she did in her other landmark fragrances, especially, Bulgari Black. It’s better that this is a challenging patchouli and somehow it seems this is most suited to NYC crowd than residents of any other city :). thanks for the wonderful draw. I am in the US

  • When the author wondered if he loved or hated this scent. It hooked me right in to wanting to try this. I have only come across a bit of Limette, and liked it very much. u.s.a.

  • Jordan Macdonald says:

    I was so pleased to see your review on Patchouli 24! I have a 1 ml decant of it and I love it! I like how in your review you mentioned that it’s hard to wear for some but pleasure on others. For me it is pleasure! My family thinks it smells like BBQ sauce but I don’t care! I love the intense smokiness and the dept in which it has! I live in the USA and one of my favorites from Le Labo would have to be Rose 31. It’s easy to wear and I don’t get that huge cumin note everyone is talking about. I also live Santal 33. Fantastic papyrus fragrance!

  • That was some punch packing review from TSF. I imagine the scent to be dark intense gothic erotic fetish that is more visible in the sultry smoke. I need to smell it. My fav. Le labo is Rose 31.
    Thanks USA

  • Cured ham & ice cream certainly caught my interest. I’ve never had the pleasure of trying any Le Labo perfumes. Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada.

  • The waves of disorientation , dizziness and smokey come hither sex was igniting, very igniting. What a great and very raunchy review. If I made perfume I would be happy to hear this. I have never tried Le Lebo perfumes before but I do so want to now!!

  • I would love to smell the cured ham note. My favorite Le Labo is Rose 31. Thank you for the review and draw!
    U.S.

  • Is it possible that Patchouli 24 is a most powerful psychotropic scent? Sounds like it… Ignited me, indeed. Especially the part about the raging sexy waves of smoke and vanilla.
    I love the contradictory behaviour of all the Le Labo fragrances I tried, but my favourites are Labdanum 18, Bergamotte 22 and Iris 39.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU), and there is no Le Labo anywhere near here. Thank you for the chance!

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    Smoky vanilla ice cream – yum! I would love to try this scent. My current fave LL is Rose 31. I live in the us. Thanks! J

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I was ignited by the thought of this “brave and confrontational” fragrance that TSF reviewed. I own too many safe scents and would like to see if this one is challenging or pleasurable for me. I live in the US and have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a Le Labo Fragrance.

  • I always wanted to try Patchouli 24 I like rose 31
    USA
    Very exciting review and love the reference to Fahrenheit 51 and Truffaut
    Enticing

  • Patchouli 24 is my favorite Le Labo scent. Iris 39 and Neroli 36 follow it. This review really builds an amazing atmosphere around Le Labo’s patchouli. Annick Ménardo has created many fragrances I love or like (my favorites are Patchouli 24 and then Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin and Jaipur Homme, maybe I should add Bois D`argent). I’m impressed how TSF describes Patchouli 24 using the scene from the famous Bradbury’s book and even greater movie of my favorite director. Indeed, the olfactory characteristics of the fragrance perfectly fit into the aforementioned scene. I’m in the EU, Croatia. Thank you.