Perfume Field Trip Report: Oudimentary – Where Ancient Meets Modern + International Draw

Oudimentary header CaFleureBon

Oud. Perfumistas shake their heads in exasperation; roll their eyes. Not another one! Sick of oud! It does feel like half of the new launches each year for the past few years do have that word (or a variation) in the name and that note in the ingredients. We think we know oud, but until we smell true agarwood oil and hang out in a room filled with the smoke of burning oud, we don’t. It is an eye-opening experience.

Oudimentary bar Micah CaFleureBon

Co-Founder Micah Anderson, photo by Tama Blough

This year I was introduced to a company called Oudimentary.  Situated in a small industrial park in Fremont, California, it is only recently that they have opened their doors to the public on a regular basis, building a small bar to serve spiced coffee and minted tea, and demonstrate their wares. Founders Micah Anderson and Usama Canon are young men who have devoted a part of their lives to bringing the highest quality oils and incenses to their clientele. They have been building relationships with suppliers over the course of a decade, traveling throughout the oud-rich areas of Asia on a regular basis. Micah told me that their products are so exceptional, they even get orders from the Middle East, where it is difficult to find the real deal amongst many low-grade pretenders.A visitor to Oudimentary experiences not only the aromas of various oils and woods, but can also receive an education about the history and ritual of oud use. Many cultures have used the smoke to scent and purify for thousands of years. I have visited three times, the most recently to an event celebrating the remodel of the shop, and each time, I smell something new, learn something new, and am charmed by the sincere graciousness of everyone there.

Oudimentary burn CaFleureBon

Burning a piece of oud wood, photo by Tama Blough

On this last visit, my friend and I walked in to the new space, enchanted by the aroma. “What is that?” we both exclaimed, so another chip was added to the burner. Small pieces of the wood are placed on a hot piece of charcoal; just hot enough to make it smolder and smoke, but not catch on fire. I am handed the burner, and I wave my hand above it to draw the smoke to my nose.  I hand it off to the next person, who waves the smoke under their arms, around their body, to scent their clothing. A new piece of a wood from a different area is added when the last one dies out, and we immediately sense the difference in the aroma.

Oudimentary Oils CaFleureBon

Then the oils come out, and we are treated to smells exotic and familiar, from the grassy smell of the barnyard, to something akin to ripe bleu cheese, to dense, raw honey. Wearing an oud oil is a transporting experience, and following the path of the scent on skin is a delight. We enrichen the experience by waving our perfumed skin over the smoke still emanating from a burner, and the perfume takes on new aspects and becomes even more complex. Sticky and rich, just a drop or two goes a long way. Choosing one to own is difficult, as even a milliliter sample can run a few hundred dollars. Fortunately, there are “starter” oils that are less expensive. Even one ml, applied judiciously, can provide a lot of wear.

Oudimentary coffee CaFleureBon

Yemeni coffee, photo by Tama Blough

While we are saturating ourselves with fragrance, we are sipping a highly spiced white (barely roasted) Yemeni coffee, which is like drinking dessert. It’s delicious, but should be sipped, since the caffeine content is much higher than normal roasts. Sitting there chatting with guests, getting a little wired, smelling amazing; the whole experience is one to remember. On the ride home, we scent the car with a miasma of aromas, and once home, our fragrant clothing reminds us of our wonderful experience. I went to Oudimentary interested from the viewpoint of a perfumista, but I can see the pleasure and spiritual  uplift derived from having a daily ritual of scenting and purifying oneself.

OUdimentary Oud CaFleureBon

Oud wood, photo by Tama Blough

Oudimentary offers a variety of products, including burners and accessories. The offerings rotate depending on what is available, and they carry lovely floral essences and other incense varieties as well. I recommend visiting their website and watching the 15-minute video on the home page; it is educational and interesting.

Tama Blough, Senior Editor

As a gift to our readers, Oudimentary is offering a sampling of their products to one lucky reader anywhere in the world. Leave a comment letting us know if you have smelled real oud, or what your favorite oud fragrance is. Draw ends September 14, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

Note: Both Contributor Donna Hathaway and Managing Editor Mark Behnke have written about oud for CaFleureBon. Click their names to link to the articles.

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70 comments

  • I don’t believe I have smelled real oud. My fave oud scent would probably be Kilian’s Amber Oud. Thanks so much for the draw:D.

  • I had some oud attar. I gave it to my baby brother. It was a little too much for me. I should have tried diluting it to try to experience some of the nuance.

  • I’ve never smelled real oud, I don’t think, so I would be thrilled to win this! I like Juliette Has A Gun’s Midnight Oud.

  • Steve Porkpie Hat Johnson says:

    I have never smelled real oud.

    My two faves so far are: Accord Oud by Byredo, and Montale’s Black Oud.

  • I have not smelled real Oud. I must admit that the only Oud scents I have sniffed are Montale, and they have not moved me, but I’ve not sniffed them all! I love woody scents, so I want to love an Oud! Great draw! Thanks.

  • I have smelled real oudh in Guangzhou in China. I found a Vietnamese oud shop in one of the jade plazas in the centre of the city. The smell of burning oudh is completely different to any of the so=called oudh perfumes on the go. I bought some oil and wood chips to burn, but they were confiscated by customs here in Europe!.

  • That whole experience sounds fascinating and fun! I’ve not had the opportunity to smell real oud ;my favorite aoud perfume is Montale Black Aoud. Thanks for the great draw.

  • What a fascinating and sensual experience! I’m thinking that a field trip to the Bay Area is in order. I have been in love with oud as a component in incense and perfume since my college days, when I worked for an indie bookshop in Berkeley, but I have never smelled the raw material. I would love to smell the real thing!! I’m in the US.

  • I sort of smelled real oud once… well real agarwood of a low grade. I have a hair gloss from BPTP I love that is amber and oud and I <3 it, so I would love to smell the real deal.

    I am in the US

  • I don’t think I’ve ever smelled real oud, at least not isolated from other notes in a fragrance. My favorite oud fragrance is NY Oud by Bond No. 9. Either that, or Aedes Des Venustas Oud. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • I love Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud. It is so heavenly. I have also smelled the real deal and was quite surprised how strong Oud is. I tend to enjoy the sweet smoky Oud more than the others. In the USA. Interesting article thank you Tama.

  • I have an attar with real Oud (which I love very much), and I have some experience with Oud based Japanese incenses…but I have never smelled pure Oud oil, nor burned pure Oud wood.
    Thank you for the generous draw!- as ever- for the generous draw!

  • I don’t believe I have ever smelled the real oud. I have however, smelled a number fragrances with Oud whether it was synthetic or genuine or just the aroma chemical . Some if my favorites are Leather Oud by Christian Dior, Red Aoud by Montale Parfums and NY Oud by Bobd No 9. thanks for this wonderful draw!

  • I am familiar with japanese incenses that uses aloeswood/agarwood so I’d say I know what real oud smells like =) My favorite would have to be Mona di Orio Oud.. she created something absolutely unique and wonderful!

  • I have a small sample of oud essential oil, but I prefer it mixed into a perfume. Some of the Xerjoff ouds are rich and lovely.
    I did pick up some jars of oud incense at Dubai airport, it comes in small discs and smells amazing!
    What fun to visit Oudimentary!

  • I have a Cambodian oud attar by Al Haramain, but I do not know how many real oud it contains. At the moment my favorite oud fragrances is Montale Aoud Lime.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • I have really grown to enjoy oud over the years. My favourite oud fragrance is a toss-up between Oud 27 by Le Labo and Rasasi Amber Ood.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • I have not had the chance to smell real oud and my favourite oud fragrance would be Vetiver Fatal. Many thanks for the draw!

  • I have smelled real Oud at a distillery just recently in Laos. I felt so priviledged. It was an amazing experience to see the workings of the factoru and to be totally immersed, surrounded by the process of extraction. They keep the oud locked up in a safe, at $35K for their top quality it seemed a good idea to me. I have some photos up on Pacific Perfumes FB page of the stills. They do it in the old traditional way. The owners are 3rd generation distillers from Assam in India.Great draw and thank you for opening it out to everyone!

  • Fantastic read! Smelled real Arabic oud oil just once, it was so dense and sensual! My favourite oud composition- hard choice, but Mona di Orio’s oud is one of the best IMO.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • I haven’t smelled pure oud, but I have a very small bottle of oud attar, that is oud co-destilled with sandalwood. It’s a really strong scent, one drop is giving a long lasting perfume, with a smoky mushroomy scent. It also seems to me that the typical sandalwood notes are intensified by the oud.

  • I’ve not smelt pure real oud yet, but I’d love to.
    My favourite oud fragrance at the moment is REALOUD by Phoenicia Perfumes.
    I’m in the EU,
    ty

  • I think this is the million dollar question – who has smelled REAL Oud?? Even though I have lived in the Middle East for the last 6 years, I still can’t be sure. I hear rumors that the oud oils sold at the all the local perfume shops (even the very expensive ones) can’t be trusted anymore and the same for the wood chips for buring. Based on how rare real agarwood seems to be, I doubt I have ever smelled the real thing even though I own various bottles of what I was told was “oud attar”. I would love to smell some from what seems to be a very trustworthy company!

    Oh, and my favorite oud scents are numerous but, I will go with Dior’s Oud Ispahan which, I am wearing today!

  • What an experience, with the oud burning and the coffee. That would have been forever burned in my memory. Most likely spoil me to any cheap versions too. I have never smelled Oud and knew it was Oud. Has anyone ever tryed smoking meat in oud? Can that be done? I live in the USA-thanks for the review!

  • the packaging reminds me of Nasomatto bottles. to date, the best Oud I have smelled continues to be M7 by YSL. I suspect I might have smelled Oud essence in one of those forgotten days of my life but i can’t recall..

    I live in the U.S.

  • I have smelled oud, both on its own and in attars. I love it, but I haven’t let myself fall too hard for it. If we had a shop like Oudimentary on the east coast, it would be a different story! I would like the opportunity to try a variety of them to see how they differ, particularly from region to region.

  • I have not been lucky enough to have smelled real oud, but have no doubts I would love to! Thank you so much for the draw…..I will check out the website and dream.

  • I’m sure I’ve never smelled REAL oud before (Dubaiscent’s doubts about the authenticity of many products seem right on target) but Oudimentary sounds quite extraordinary! Winning a sampling of their products would be fabulous indeed. Thanks for the draw.

  • I’ve smelled real oud and my favorite out scent, at the moment, is David Yurman’s Limited Edition. I imagine the way it goes on scares a lot of people away – its cacophony of notes including a hybrid rose, oud, violet, vanilla and raspberry, and suede, among others, settles down quite nicely to something resembling Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather. In the USofA.

  • As others said, I am not sure I smelled real oud before. So this draw is really great!

    My fav ouds are : Oud by MdO, Oud by MFK and Incense oud by Kilian.

    Thank you!

  • Sadly, I’ve never smelled any form of oud. Interestingly enough, there’s a variety that grows in my country. Accorcding to ensaroud.com in the product Oud Royale II, ours is bolder than the Borneo, and cleaner than Cambodi. I hope to actually find out the local name of this tree. Then maybe I can finally smell some local oud! 😀

  • susie frankel says:

    I don’t know oud…perhaps some form has crossed my path in incense from around the world I have enjoyed…I have no oud favorite, my shortfall. however, if I were still living in NCa…I would be in Fremont in a quick minute. Good luck to Oudimentary…and I’d like my coffee black!

    thanks for the draw….and discussion from readers.

  • I have a vial of agarwood/oud oil from eden botanicals, and it’s magical. A visit to Oudimentary sounds like an amazing sensory experience! I hope to visit next time I’m in the bay area. Thanks for the draw!

  • While I have experienced the cultivated and wild (supposedly…from a reliable source but you never know) versions I have never enjoyed it in any form of (food-things you ingest). I am really curious what sort of medicinal properties this might have along with the flavor/scent experience!

  • Chapeau Clack says:

    I have yet to experience real oud. My favorite oud-containing perfumes so far are Montale Aoud Queen Roses and Red Aoud. Given all the controversy that surrounds Montale, there’s no telling if the oud they use is real though.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • I’ve never smelled Oud, so I am not quite sure how to identify it in a fragrance yet. It hasn’t been a listed note in any I’ve tried so far, but I’d love to experience it with as much as you write about it.

  • I have never smelled real oud but would love to and have yet to find an oud scent that I really like. I am in the US. Thank you

  • I have a quite extensive collection of tiny oil samples of real oud, “real” oud, and unreal oud. Real oud is amazing stuff. Some synthetic ouds are also quite nice, but can’t compare with the real thing. I havent’ tried anything from Oudimentary, so would love to sample their products.

  • I don’t believe I’ve ever smelled burning oud, but have enjoyed exploring a number of oud-based fragrances lately. Madini Agarwood feels very raw; it starts with an “it’s good for you” vibe, then draws me in. I wear it around the house, but it’s a little too intense and masculine to take out in the world. The heavy rush of saffron in Madini’s Mokhalat Malaki took some getting used to, but I’ve grown fond of the contrast between its initial tang and the oud/rose bloom that follows. I’ve been wearing Madini oils for 25 years now, and am inclined to trust the firm’s claim to use only naturally-sourced ingredients, so am also inclined to believe that what I am smelling in these oils is real oud, albeit not necessarily of the highest grade.

    I’ve also tried several inexpensive but well-reviewed designer replicas from Surrati and Swiss Arabian. Surrati’s Tom Oud is deliciously soothing, like sheltering arms, a protective forest. Their Tom Tuskan Leather, on the other hand, smells to my nose like a gas station — an interesting curiosity, but not necessarily something I crave. The balance of oud and rose in Surrati Black Oudh is very soul-satisfying. The hashiness of Swiss-Arabian Black Afgano is intriguing and entertaining, but I do wish that its raspberry note were a little less pronounced. Given the bargain prices, I don’t doubt that these oils are primarily synthetic, but that hasn’t kept me from enjoying the ride (even the surprise trip to the gas station).

    As for alcohol-carrier fragrances, I have sampled Incense Oud by Kilian, but it’s just a little too smoky for me. This seems weird, because I like Madini’s Ambergris, which starts out like smoke syrup, but improves tremendously once it’s had an hour or so to mellow out on the skin.

    So, I’ve been learning to love oud on the cheap. My favorites of those I’ve tried are Madini Mokhalat Malaki and Surrati Black Oudh. I would dearly love an introduction to some of the finer stuff.

  • If I have smelled real oud, I didn’t know it. I have very little experience with this note and, therefore, do not have a favorite. Would love to try this, so thanks for the chance.

  • I’ve never smelled real oud. I do like By Kilian Amber Oud, and L’Artisan Al Oudh. Thanks for the draw.

  • Oudimentary sounds amazing, would love to visit sometime!
    My own fragrance Pink Rose has a smoky oud base to it. I also have Le Labo Oud 27 and dig the dirty edge it has.
    I would LOVE to try more oud!

  • Guess I never smelled PURE oud.. My favorite attar using (at least I hope so 🙂 ) some real oud is Al Shoumukh by Amouage
    Thanks for the draw.

  • I have never smelled oud, and I’m not sure if I have even smelled an oud-like fragrance. Maybe Amouage Interlude?
    Thanks for the draw.

  • I have not smelled real Oud, at least not that I know for sure, but lately I’ve loved Byredo’s Oud Immortel. So many ouds, and yet I’ve not tired of them! I understand we’ll be seeing a lot more oud releases before this is trend abates, and I say “bring it!”I live in the U.S. and would LOVE this prize. Thanks!

  • I have grown up smelling oud incense sticks that did have some real oud in them but I have never smelled real oud extract per say. My favorite oud fragrance is David Yurman Limited Edition which I own and love it.
    Thanks
    USA

  • I would have to say my favorite oud is Oud Wood by Tom Ford. Nothing that guy does ever disappoints me. Thanks

  • I have never smelled real oud, but would love to. I would love to smell a lot more raw material in general. My favourite oud fragrance is probably YSL M7 (NOT the oud absolute).

  • I have never tried real oud, and given how different scents featuring it can smell, it is hard to really get an idea of its true essence. My favorite at the moment is probably Oud Ispahan by Dior. Thanks guys.

  • I have never smelled real oud, I am interested in the Montales and in Mona di Orio’s Oud. This draw seems like a good opportunity.

  • Thank you, Tama, for bringing Oudimentary into my life! Ever since I read your article I have become with the idea that I must visit Oudimentary as soon as possible! I’m already formulating a group of people that I want to bring with me. I watched the movie, read the website, now I need to make my journey to Mecca…in Fremont.

    My oud experience is too minor to mention, but soon I hope to have a visceral interpretation of it.

  • Never smelled real oud straight, I’m so curious!

    I smelled MFK’s 3 Oud Moods in the store–liked both Velvet and Cashmere! Very strong, one was sweeter and one spicier. Those are probably my favorites, most other oud scents I’ve tried have been too rose-heavy or loud and sharp. Love Jubilation XXV also. There are still so many ouds I have not tried–Mona di Orio, Xerjoff, Micallef….most of all AbdesSalaam and Ajmal–and now Oudimentary. I bet there are even more I have not heard of.

    I have really enjoyed reading about Oud and sustainability (Ensar oud, post by Jordan River/thefragrantman) and I also really enjoyed reading this piece about the multifaceted Oud experience. Producer and consumer/experiencer. White coffee! too cool. Burning each chip and noticing the different character….wonderful. I like the video. “She’s the Yoda of oud.”
    Why the carving in the beginning?

    Thanks for the article and the draw,

  • I’ve tried some of “starter” oils. There are really huge differences between the various oud oils. I love it in Attar Al Kaaba and in Mohur. Rose/oud combination is one of my favorite in perfumes.

  • I don’t really love oud it suffocates me. However Montale fragrances with oud are pretty good on my skin in very small dosages. I would really love to give oudimentary a try as I have never smelt real oud. Thank you for the draw.

  • I’m starting to get into oud fragrances. I recently bought Royal Oud and I’m loving it! I would love to try this one out.

    Thanks for the draw!