When I was looking up the definition of the word “panache” in the dictionary I found the first definition which was “1. Dash, verve.” That was the meaning I was used to. I was surprised to find a second meaning; “2. A bunch of feathers or a plume, especially on a helmet.” In many ways 2010 has been a panache year for perfumer Yann Vasnier. He started the year with the first plume in his panache by creating Coup de Foudre for Parfums DelRae and I found the Rose de Mai centric fragrance to be a lush complex rose fragrance. The second plume was his men’s mainstream fragrance Marc Jacobs Bang in which M. Vasnier applied a niche sensibility to a masstige fragrance and created, in my opinion, the best men’s mainstream release of the last two years. Now as we wind down the last few months of 2010 M. Vasnier presents the third plume of his panache, his second fragrance for Parfums DelRae; Panache.

 

 

Panache was inspired by DelRae Roth’s morning café crème at the Paris café, Le Rostand. As she would face the Place de Edmond Rostand sipping her morning cup she came to admire Cyrano de Bergerac, Edmond Rostand’s most famous character. The name of this latest Parfums DelRae comes from the final word spoken by Cyrano at the end of the play:

“You take everything-the rose and the laurel too. Take them and welcome. But, in spite of you, there is one thing that goes with me when tonight I enter my final lodging, sweeping the bright stars from the blue threshold with my salute. A thing unstained, unsullied by the brute broken nails of the world, by death, by doom unfingered-see it there a white plume over the battle-a diamond in the ash of the ultimate combustion-my panache.”

 

Certainly a lyrical and powerful inspiration for M. Vasnier to work from and as he had done previously with Coup de Foudre and Bang, Panache shows a perfumer working to the best of his creative abilities.

Panache is centered around vetiver but this is the second fragrance which I have encountered in the last few months where I’m told it is supposed to be about vetiver but it is the notes around vetiver that steal the show. Just as with L’Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vetiver Sacre, Panache has vetiver right in the heart of things but from the boozy rum beginning to the spicy floral partners in the heart until it rests on golden amber and honey the vetiver never becomes that slightly edgy vetiver that keeps some from enjoying it. In Panache M. Vasnier creates a vetiver fragrance that might convert those who haven’t cared for vetiver in the past.

 

Panache opens with a whispered breath of bergamot and magnolia before a potent darkly sweet rum accord adds some dash to the top notes. The sweetly boozy nature of the rum is picked up by jasmine and ylang-ylang into the heart and then vetiver enters as an equal partner and for a fragrance where vetiver is supposed to be the star it instead acts like the gracious host, as it shows off all of the other notes around it to best effect. This phase is beautifully balanced and the vetiver, jasmine and ylang-ylang entwine with each other to create a beautifully grassy floral accord. Ever so slowly liquid gold in the presence of warm amber and sweet honey take Panache into the base and this really adds the final bit of verve to make Panache something special.

Panache has excellent longevity and average sillage.

As I enter the latter days of 2010 I begin to consider which perfumers have produced a body of work which will have me consider them for my perfumer of the year. With Coup de Foudre, Bang and now Panache I can tell you Yann Vasnier will be on my short list as I consider who will receive that accolade. Panache itself is also likely to make my year end best of list all on its own. M. Vasnier has fashioned his own panache quite brilliantly.

Disclosure: This review was based on a preview sample provided by Parfums DelRae.

-Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

We love this fragrance… One lucky winner will win a 1.7 ml spray sample courtesy of Parfums DelRae. Draw ends October 26, 2010 at 11:59 pm