Silvio Levi and Calé Fragranze d' Autore Boutique
Evolving over eighty-eight years, from a simple hair salon opened by Silvio Levi’s grandfather in 1926 to a boutique that carries some of the world’s premier prestige fragrance products, Calé Fragranze d’Autore (Fragrance of the Author) is a perfumed haven for those with discerning tastes and is also the name of a collection of beautiful scents not available in the USA. Dr. Levi began developing the collection with master perfumer Maurizio Cerizza, and released Tepidarium, Dolce Riso, Brezza di Seta, and Mistero, in 2008.
Inside Nose, and Esxence, the Scent of Excellence
I became interested in this line when I read our review of Roboris, created by Perfumer Mark Buxton in 2011. I recognized Dr. Levi's name, as he is co-founder of Esxence – the Scent of Excellence, the quintessential artistic and niche Fragrance Exhibition in Milan, Italy each Spring; this was the first year CaFleureBon was the official media partner for this prestigious show.* Dr. Levi is also the co-owner of Paris' cutting edge Perfumerie, Nose, along with Perfumers Romano Ricci of Juliette has a Gun and Mark Buxton, along with businessman Nicolas Cloutier. If there ever was a fragrance expert it is surely Dr. Levi.
"A Roman Art Lover", by Lawrence Alma Tadema, 1868
Each and every fragrance created under the Calé Fragranze d'Autore brand tells a story, and even the simplest are told eloquently. The press materials ask that we “listen to the perfumes”. I have listened and heard stories that unfold on my skin.
Tepidarium was my first sniff and, after smelling them all, is still one of my favorites. I love scents that offer a fragrant escape, and this EDT is one. Here, we have a sturdy musky citrus based scent named for the “warm area” or great hall in Roman villas where guests congregated and spent most of their time, relaxing and visiting. An opening of grapefruit and lemon, splashed into spicy rum, sets the tone with a simultaneously warm and fresh accord. Plush acacia blooms mesh with magnolia, waxing floral yet maintaining the coziness of the opening. When the piña colada arrives, it is sans any syrupy sweetness, adding balmy fruity nuances without smelling too much like an umbrella drink. This maintains an air of dignity and decorum, and gives the olfactory impression of warm sun-kissed days, unfolding beautifully on skin to a tame, yet tenacious, musky fresh foliage aroma that feels as relaxed as it is refined. Sillage: good. Longevity: above average.
Notes: grapefruit, lemon, rum, acacia, magnolia, piña colada accord, vetiver, green tea & white musk.
"Planting Rice" by Fernando Amorsolo
Both tropical scents and gourmand fragrances can be difficult with my skin chemistry. It is a rare and wonderful thing indeed to find one of each in this line that resonates with me. Dolce Riso (sweet rice) tells the story of the wedding gift Retna Doumila asked of the god Shiva. When her gift was not received she threw herself in the Ganges River. Forty days later, watered by Shiva’s tears, grains of rice grew from the plants on her tomb. She had become her gift of good nourishing food that would never leave the people. This is a truly unique gourmand scent as it takes fruits, with hints of herbs, and stirs them into a simmering pot with soft grains and mild pepper, yet it smells nothing like food. This just smells gently invigorating and dulcetly demure. A creamy, almost dreamy, dry down of musk, vanilla bean and tonka bean completes this scent’s evolution caramelizing ever so slightly into tiny drizzles of scrumptious glaze on skin. Sillage: close to fair. Longevity: good.
Notes: apple, lime, Artemisia, rice, cereal grains, white pepper, musk, vanilla & tonka bean.
"Woman in Blue Seated at Dressing Table" by Richard Emil Miller
Brezza di Seta (breeze of silk) is meant to evoke a woman sitting at her dresser, delivering the final touches to her makeup, putting on her jewelry, and applying a mist of perfume. Available in EDT and Concentre strength, both capture fruit, flowers, and woods in an earthy amber base using the same components with differing emphases. Tart and vivacious in the beginning, softening to drier then softer floral notes, the EDT highlights the arid ambery sweetness and soft blossoms. The concentre rises a bit higher and maintains a greener feeling throughout, settling to a patchouli-vetiver combination. Both versions capture a composed charm and unique tenderness as grand green and arid velvet flowers dovetail into soft reassuring comfort. Sillage: EDT-good/Concentre-very good. Longevity: EDT-average/Concentre-above average.
Notes: blackcurrant, violet greens, neroli, lavender, water iris, magnolia, rose, patchouli, vetiver, vanilla pods & tonka.
"Deep Forest" by Cheung King Man
If there was ever a scent that I would wear as a signature scent , Mistero would fit me perfectly. It opens woody and aromatic, as spiced vapors of rum dance along succulent rhubarb stalks with hints of mint in the air. The result, against the shadowy backdrop of dark wood and labdanum, is enchanting and as delicate as it is deep and brooding. A heart of incense resin, pollen-rich stamens and spices swirl smoothly into a suave slightly nutty aroma that smells like more than everything that is in it. The accenting notes lend a floral air to a unique prelude and eventually curl up to snuggle against hearty woods, aged resin and a downright sinful musk. With no citrus and no flowers, to speak of, this combines strength, charisma and an air of mystery (true to its namesake) without any of the usual suspects. Simply superb, this character is a must sniff for woody aromatic lovers!! Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent. Maurizio
Notes: rum, rhubarb, mint, pimento, elemi resin, saffron, Basmati rice, oak wood, agarwood, labdanum & musk.
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me from Cale Fragranze d’Autore. The line of is available at First in Fragrance and Nose.
John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumes Editor
Thanks to the kindness of Dr. Silvio Levi & Calé Fragranze d’Autore we have a sample set of five fragrances to give away to one US winner. The set will include 1.5 ml samples of: Mistero EDT, Dolce Riso EDT, Tepidarium EDT, Brezza di Seta concentre and Roboris concentre. To be eligible leave a comment stating which perfume speaks to you the most from this company, your most profound new perfumed discovery and that you live in the US. Draw will end March 1st, 2014.
*Editor’s Note: ÇaFleureBon is the US Media Partner for Esxence 2014, and I will be reporting live from the venue in Milan daily from March 20 – 22. – Tama Blough, Deputy Editor