Violet Dew

Primary colors shake you up, while muted palettes haunt.  Some paintings pop, while others draw you in slowly but linger in your consciousness like a half-forgotten dream.  Some fragrances shout, while others make their point with a seductive whisper.  Penhaligon’s Artemisia is a refined example of the latter olfactory art form.

Photo by Fashion Photographer Paolo Roversi (R)

Artemisia opens with a sharp burst of nectarines and dewy greenery that give a somewhat false impression of a diva.  Within mere minutes, someone has appeased her and she softens.  Heart notes of green apple and lily of the valley bow to the grande dame of violet.   At this stage, Artemisia makes me visualize crushed pastels on a painter’s palette, a powdery, almost mineral ladylike floral.

Pastel Dusting by Richard McKinley

Over time, jasmine in the form of a tea made of steeped flowers warms these pigments from the inside out and a subtle touch of vanilla cushions the stems of the delicate florals.

Artemisia was created by Dominique Bouley in 2002 as an homage to Artemisia Gentileschi, a Baroque period painter active in the early 1600’s who was considered second only to Carvaggio. She became the first female member of the prestigious Accademia di Art del Disegno in Florence at a time when women were not welcomed into the profession.

Baroque painting is characterized by exaggerated motion and posture and clear, bold detail, a style that seems to contrast with Bouley’s creation.  However, one of Artemisia Gentileschi’s paintings perfectly captures the spirit of this scent: Sleeping Venus, from 1630.

Sleeping Venus by Artemisia Gentileschi, 1630

The fragrance very much evokes the goddess of romance at rest.  She slumbers, but wells of emotion are detectable just under the surface, as evidenced by Artemisia’s base notes of oakmoss, sandalwood, musk and amber.

She dreams of her far away lover in a palace with puddles of color melting into each other like chalk in the rain.

Crystal Palace, Madrid

At this stage, Artemisia becomes a skin scent, but it lingers like an enchantment for hours and hours.

Notes: nectarine, green foliage, green apple, lily of the valley, jasmine tea, violet, vanilla, oakmoss, sandalwood, amber and musk

-Nancy Knows, Monthly Contributor and editor of Make Perfume, Not War

Thanks to the generosity of Penhaligon’s, we have a 50 ml bottle of Artemisia eau de parfum available for readers who reside within the US, Canada, or the EU.  To enter, please comment and note which of Penhaligon’s fragrances is your favorite, or name a painter who you believe could inspire a perfume and tell us where you live. Draw ends 2/24/2014

Editor's Note: Artemisia doesn't get much love on the blogs; we don't know why.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.