Niche Fragrance Review: INeKE After My Own Heart “Memories of Spring” + Lilac Lover Perfume Draw

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My favorite time of year is the two to three weeks in late April to early May when the lilacs are in bloom. Ever since I have been a child, these flowers have enchanted, intrigued and even transported me. Ineke Ruhland has a way of capturing flowers, with all their myriad wonders, in perfume form. After My Own Heart is the perfect title for this scent because, on my very first sniff, it was like Eros himself shot a golden shaft through my heart. Those couple weeks when these magical flowers burst forth and blossom are the perfect time of year; both in terms of temperature and energy. Heavenly fragrant clusters of flowers hang heavy and sing like a perfect chorus of springtime on those sunny days. After the crocus has gone and the daffodil has faded, the lilacs let us know summer is inching ever closer, but a few cool nights could remain.

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From picking these flowers as a child and presenting them to my mother to taking a wicker basket out “midnight lilacing” in college to fill my room with them to planting two white dwarf Korean lilacs outside my bedroom window a couple years ago…my fascination with these amazing flowers has never waned. There is something divine about a flower that smells refreshingly green and amazingly floral, yet also has an aroma of slightly nutty sweetness and whispers of silken powder, Ms Ruhland has captured and recreated every aspect of this flower. I have many lilac perfumes but,  After My Own Heart is different from all the others. Most lilac scents are rather intense and extremely sweet (Yves Rocher’s Pur Desir de Lilas, Highland Lilac of Rochester and yes, En Passant by Fredric Malle) and this captures the sublime balance between sensual and sweet, while remaining sheer and verdant.

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Purple Lilac Spring by Yulia Kazansky (2013)

One of my earliest (and fondest) teenage memories of lilacs is my first lover (and also my best friend) growing up; how he used to throw freshly picked lilacs in my open window to let me know he was thinking of me and (at least to me) lilacs say LOVE more than orchids, or even roses do. There is an aura of purity, yet still something amazingly sensual about these bunches of tiny blossoms composed of thousands of flowers with four simple petals that make me feel revitalized and youthful again. Just this weekend, I was driving through the hills of southwest PA along the rivers and the air smelled of rain approaching, green leaves and lilacs on the wind. After My Own Heart is not, like many other lilac perfumes, a soliflore (perfume consisting only of one major flower) nor is it linear; though the lilac does saunter through it from start to finish. Now that the Lilac Time is here, I have drenched myself in this wonderful scent and simply must share my joy and admiration.

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Opening with a slightly fruity twist of raspberry, bitter bergamot and leafy green notes, this captures the freshness of spring and the sunny, yet not oppressively hot, feeling of this season. The sun is shining, sweet flowers are blooming and lush new growth is everywhere.  The lilac, at the heart of this perfume, is pure and exhilarating. No other floral notes muddy its simple elegant beauty. I have read that the heavenly aroma of these gorgeous flowers is not able to be rendered through enfleurage or even steam distillation, and thus most lilac oils are synthetic in nature. Whatever Ms Ruhland has used here sure smells like a real lilac bush to my nose! The soft sweetness of the flowers is laid over subtle woody undertones with a velvety almond-like aroma. I personally know of the dark lilac (deep violet/purple, often called Persian lilac), common lilac (light violet petals) and French lilac (a pale light purple to white double-flowered cultivar). This smells like a breathtaking blend of all three!!

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Throughout wearing this perfume, I am amazed with its longevity. The substances used to simulate lilac (syringa vulgaris) in most perfumes usually begin beautifully, and fizzle by the drydown; often times reverting to their synthetic nature and dry a bit “generic” or chemical…not so here! A constant warm vernal breeze continues to swirl around you, revealing its beguiling blend of freshness and enchanting sexiness. Soft powdery caresses, light teasing kisses of delicious nuttiness and a woody green embrace that is as gentle as it is strong make this perfumista feel like I have touched and been touched deeply by Mother Nature.

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Lilac Lovers by Borbrova

My mind remembers running barefoot on warm soft new grass, frolicking with other kids, sun shining on us, as we laughed and played. It also brings to mind lying in the same grass (freshly picked lilacs scattered all about us) in the arms of that one who you could never forget and will always love, no matter what. After My Own Heart encapsulates everything springtime and lilacs are to me: new fresh innocence, first love, endless possibilities and growing in a new direction after a cold and dark time.

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Cross-Section of Lilacwood

In the deep drydown we have sandalwood reinforcing the woodiness of the branches on which the flowers grow. Lilac wood is close-grained and one of the densest woods in Europe and has been used for frames, crafts and musical instruments for centuries. The use of soft sandalwood, here, gives it a slightly exotic feel and dovetails with the powdery floral nuances perfectly. Heliotrope adds to that powdery depth, without smelling like pure talc, and also exudes its tantalizing nut-like aroma; yet, this is neither an oriental nor even remotely gourmand.

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Deep beneath the blossoms and cool leaves, a sheer but solid musk lightly covers the whole creation like evening dew falling sensuously on flower, wood and leaf alike, at the end of the perfect late spring day. This scent is aptly named. It is a perfume that touches my own heart, awakens fond memories and stirs my soul. It is reminiscent of youth, warms my spirit, recaptures the feeling (and aromas) of my first love and coalesces sensuality and freshness with elegance and panache. If you love lilacs, or even just appreciate their aroma and beauty, I urge you to give this a sniff. Take it from a lifelong lilac lover…you’ll be glad you did! Sillage: average to slightly above. Longevity: above average to good.

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Ineke Ruhland

There may be other “truer” more expensive lilac perfumes (soliflores), but this particular Eau de Parfum captures and brings out all the inherent delightful beauty of the flower itself and just so happens to bring to life, through its masterfully blended secondary notes, my favorite time of year and captures more than just the scent of lilacs…it captures their energy and paints a provocative picture of their mystic essence. Thank you, Ineke Ruhland!! 

Disclosure: Review based on a sample sent to me by INeKE Perfumer, San Francisco.

Thanks to Ineke we have a draw for full bottle of After My Own Heart for our US readers ONLY. To be eligible leave a comment on your favorite Ineke fragrance or what flower evokes Spring to you. The draw will end on May 18, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-John Reasinger, Senior Editor

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64 comments

  • Two flowers come to mind for me…Lilac and Tulip….Lilac would be my first choice as far as wearing it as a perfume goes. After my own Heart is a beautiful fragrance and is wonderful for spring. Great write up John 🙂

  • Wonderful review John! LOVE Lilacs and Calla Lilies always remind me of Spring. Thanks for the draw!

  • What a lovely review — the lilacs aren’t quite out in my part of the world, but I’m waiting anxiously for them as always. Lilacs are my spring flower too. They are the way I know that winter is gone for good until it returns in the proper time! Thanks for the draw!

  • WOW…okay, I really need to get my nose on this perfume now. We don’t have lilacs here yet, but they mean spring to me too. Insofar as Ineke scents, Evening Edged in Gold is a stunner.

  • My favorite has always been the lilac – my grandma had a whole row of them and some of my earliest, fondest memories are of us gathering armfuls of the lovely lilac blooms and putting them in jars all over the house. I definitely must try this one, it sounds divine!

  • Our lilacs are in full bloom, and irises are just starting. All my neighbors in our common yard have lilacs, recently planted and others the legacy of our dear flower loving Aileen, who experienced her transition in her beloved garden. The other night someone had a wood fire and the smoke combined with the lilacs.

  • I’ve never had the pleasure of sampling any Ineke fragrances. My favorite springtime flower is linden. Thanks for the drawing!

  • Janet in California says:

    What a lovely review, now lilacs will say love to me too. The smell of spring is narcissus. They flower early in my area, often in the late winter, so I know that spring is almost here. A peony is blooming on my deck right now and it is subtle and gorgeous.

  • Victoria Casey says:

    My favorite Spring flower is Daffodils. They are not suited to the desert climate I live in but with a lot of babying I make them grow anyway :).

  • angiefunk says:

    spring scent is my magnolia tree bloom, hyacinth poking through the ground and lilac blossoms. Lilacs are my favorite scent too!! Would love to try this perfume. Thank you for the draw. Have not ventured into Ineke perfumes but I think this could be a winner.

  • Beautiful review
    I wonder why they cannot extract lilacs through enfleurage
    Lilac and tulips
    Favorite Ineke -evening edged in gold

  • Peonies, peonies, peonies! They do something to me. I’ll embarrass myself if I go into greater detail, but I have to have them. I would love to find a fragrance that summons them up for me as vividly as this one does your love of lilacs (my second favorite spring flower). This is one draw I really hope to be lucky in. Thanks! 🙂

  • To me Lilly of the valley is the springest flower of the spring. It’s sweet light & airy but full of body and texture and of course beautiful color just as spring.

    US reader

  • After my own heart may not be a soliflore, however the lilac is the most soft, natural representation I have discovered. That blended with just the right amount of green notes and freshness (bergamot) gives a sunny feel and it goes straight to my heart because it reminds me of laying in the grass surrounded by lilacs at my childhood home in spring.

  • Actually Lilac is the flower that symbolises Spring for me. Living in Greece it was the flower that showed around Easter and that was always thought of as heralding Springtime. It’s called Pascalia there. Pasca meaning easter. I have a US address

  • ringthing says:

    Lily of the valley isn’t showy, in fact you have to seek it out in shady corners, but that delicate short lived scent is the embodiment of spring. I love After My Own Heart but have just had a sample. Thanks for the review and the draw.

  • Tulips and cherry blossoms always signify Spring for me. I am a big fan of Evening Edged in Gold and Poet’s Jasmine in the Floral Curiosities line. I need to revisit Hothouse Flower which I adored at first sniff.

  • lumpkinluv says:

    I really love Balmy days and Sundays it is exquisite and makes me feel relaxed and comfortable whenever I wear it.

  • Lilacs call my childhood to mind – two bushes in our front yard. And the lovely scent as you walked to the door. As an adult, I love peonies and still haven’t found a perfume that captures their beautiful scent for me.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I will go for Cherry Blossom…especially the cherry blossoms in Japan where they are eagerly awaited

  • winegirl27 says:

    Violets, lily of the valley and mock orange herald spring and the beginning of summer for me. Other favorites are iris, my linden tree, and of course lilacs. Of Ineke’s fragrances I love Derring-Do the most!

  • Wow, this will have to be my next sample purchase. (I have sworn off blind buying.) When I went to school in Chicago, they sold lilacs on the street, usually a bit before spring had actually sprung, and I could never resist buying them, no matter how broke I was. The scent was like a promise that the winter would eventually end.

  • wefadetogray says:

    My favorite Ineke perfume is Evening edged in Gold; to me it is just gorgeous. Spring takes different forms, mimosas and lilacs remind me of spring at my grandmother’s house yet magnolia’s remind me of my mother’s house in spring.
    Thanks for the draw. I am i n the US 🙂

  • I believe my favorite Ineke perfume is After My Own Heart; I also love Evening Edged in Gold. Two very different fragrances, but they are so lovely.

    The lilacs are blooming in my neighborhood and it is wonderful walking to the train.

  • I adore spring flowers, and lilacs are a top choice for me. The freshness of Hyacinth is a true harbinger of the season.

    Hard to pick just one favorite Ineke perfume, but this one is near the top of the list. I would love to win it for my sister, whose birthday is coming up – lilacs are her very favorite!

  • Another chance to win an Ineke? Oh goody:). I love Ineke’s style, as I’ve said before and adore the precious lilac note, especially how it’s so beautifully represented in After My Own Heart, a full bottle I’ve been wanting forever! My fave Ineke is probably An Evening Edged In Gold, another full bottle I’ve been craving forever. But After My Own Heart is no less great than Evening, it’s so lovely. A perfect floral, a perfect lilac. I also really enjoy Field Notes for a tobacco fix and Briar Rose, which I like more than Portrait of a Lady for that rose/patch combo.

    Unfortunately, I’ve had a rough spring so far with an injury and I’ve been craving even more lilacs, as I love indolic florals for rough times! But I don’t see lilac much in perfumes these days, which makes me sad! It’s my fave floral note, along with jasmine. One of my first lilacs was Baby Soft Lilac..but it was long ago discontinued. I do enjoy Gucci Guilty..but it could use more lilac. Then I tried the Jo Malone, which was lovely but AMOH has been the best lilac I’ve sniffed. I still need to try Le Dix and En Passant and have been on my to test list for a while now.

    I’ve loved picking fresh lilacs ever since I was a child, nothing as lovely smelling than that and I agree, smelling AMOH reminded me of picking lilacs off of our bushes when I was younger. I just learned lilac and jasmine are part of the olive family, had no idea!

    My mom informed me that she too is a big lilac fan and will be giving her my sample of AMOH, if I win the bottle, I may share it with mom.

    A bit of rambling but thanks for the draw! I live in the U.S.

  • Lilac is my spring flower as well. It’s a scent that I’ve loved since I was little because of the two lilac bushes beside the porch at my grandmothers house that would be in full bloom in May.

  • After My Own Heart says it all in my feelings for lilac, and this has been an exceptional spring for the lilac my dad planted and that I’m bidding farewell to as the parental home has been sold. A bittersweet spring, although I’m hoping to nurture a cutting and bring a little of that special one to a new home.

  • Lilac is my absolute favorite childhood flower!
    I am very excited at the thought of having a
    perfume to evoke those feelings!
    Please enter me in this draw…I live in the US.
    Thanks!

  • Yes, lilacs are THE smell of spring. My neighbor has several exquisite lilac bushes and they smell heavenly. I always take a few deep sniffs when I walk by. When I was in primary school, the lilac bushes were tall and massive next to the walls of the building. At recess, we would crouch down and burrow beneath the lowest branches in order to sit surrounded by the fragrance. Lilacs are our reward for enduring months of winter.

  • chrisskins says:

    I accidentally vacuumed up a sample of En Passant, and miss the heady lilac. I also love Lily of the Valley, a scent that ties three generations of chrisskinses together.

  • I can never decide which spring flower I can’t live with out smelling every spring! There’s the lilac and then the wisteria and a little later the lily of the valley, there’s the honeysuckle and finally late spring the wild roses open up! I can’t pick just one

  • Lilacs are definitely a favorite spring flower of mine. My neighborhood is scented with them right now. Must go walk dog–she won’t object! I’m also a fan of Ineke, bought her sample set, and own full bottles of Evening Edged in Gold, Field Notes, and Sweet William. I live in the U.S. and would be thrilled to own After My Own Heart. Thanks!

  • Here in northern California blooming pink jasmine erupts in booms everywhere in the spring. I didn’t realize how good a flower could smell until I moved here. I’d love to find a fragrance that captures that enchanting scent.

  • Wisteria is my favorite spring flower. I love “After My Own Heart”. It is proably my favorite Ineke perfume.

  • helical gnome says:

    Jssmine, mimosas, magnolia, and narcissus speak of spring to me.
    I haven’t tried any Ineke perfume just yet although it is on my list!
    Thanks. I am in the USA

  • Right now I am loving Balmy Days and Sundays but within our household are full bottles of Derring Do, Field Notes and EEIG…honestly, all of Ineke’s perfumes are my favorites!
    I am in the US. thank you for this generous draw!

  • Tomate Farcie says:

    I love so many of Ineke’s fragrances, Hothouse Flower is one of my favorites and her sampler is fantastic! I’m in the US.

  • Lilac is definitely a flower that evokes spring. I have an old bush in my backyard and this spring I planted a fresh cutting in the hope it would take. I am afraid my established lilac , which must be decades aged, has not too many more springs ahead of it. I have never sampled any of the Inekes. Would love to try. Thanks for the draw.

  • I have a lilac bush in my back yard. It smells wonderful, but it really attracts the bees! I guess they like the smell too. I would love to experience this fragrance. i have never tried any of this line. I live in the US. Thanks.

  • rosiegreen says:

    My favorite spring flowers are lilacs and peonies, They remind me so much of my mother who always had them in her garden along with pansies and hyacinths.

  • just breathe says:

    Field Notes is my all time favorite…have drained two bottles!
    I am in the USA.
    thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite Ineke is certainly Field Notes from Paris. My bottle is almost empty!

  • Tulips always make me smile and remind me of spring, although they’re not what I’d want in a fragrance 🙂 There are several Ineke perfumes I’d like to try but haven’t had the pleasure yet. Thanks for the opportunity to try this one. It sounds lovely. (I live in the US.)

  • Thank you, John, for such an eloquent review.

    One of my most vivid memories in college was in the spring of my senior year. My dorm was just beyond a long row of lilacs that we had to walk by daily. Their smell was intoxicating and I, too, made a few flower raids after dark to enjoy their scent inside.

  • My fave ineke is field notes from Paris. I would love to win. I am in the u.s. thanks

  • I have not yet tried any Ineke perfumes, but it has been on my to-try list for quite some time. Quite appropriately, this spring has been mostly lilac scented for me!

  • Paul Bunch says:

    I think that tulips evoke Spring to me. I especially like scented ones. Even though tulips bloom in January or February here in California.

  • I have wanted to try “After My Own Heart” for sometime. It is so difficult to find a perfume that captures the scent of cool springtime air and blooming lilacs. For me both lilacs and narcissus are evocative of Spring. I am in the U.S.

  • GregorySop says:

    Tulips help me usher in spring, the national park near us has a flower garden area and those are among the first to bloom, of course they dont last long so you have to be certain to go soon to see them.

  • Mary Carol says:

    Tulips and daffodils always make me think of early spring. Then, lily of the valley and lilacs are the flowers I associate with mid-spring. We had several lilac bushes in our garden when I was growing up, and they always scented the yard in such a wonderful way when they were in full bloom.

    I very recently sampled After My Own Heart, and it is truly beautiful and captures all that lilacs are. I live in the US. Please include me in the drawing.

  • Lilacs evoke spring! My mother always had lilacs when I was growing up.

    Have never heard of lilacwood. That is why I love this blog. It never fails to inform or entertain!

  • Thank you for this beautiful post. I’m a lilactime lover and I go midnight lilacing too. I would love to win Ineke’s fragrance.

  • I recently had the opportunity to try Field Notes From Paris and I LOVE it. I’ve also been lemming a lilac fragrance for my collection – I love lilacs and plan on planting a bush in my garden.

  • I love cherry blossoms in the spring
    My mom had a garden blooming with lilacs
    I am not familiar with this line but sounds beautiful
    Thank you

  • Lilac and hyacinth are my two favorite springtime flowers. I love this scent and am so thankful for the opportunity that this draw provides.