New Perfume Reviews: Le Galion Vetyver, Cuir, Sortilège Elixir, Essence Noble, Sovereign and Aesthete + Ship Sails Again Draw

le galion  esxence 2015 nicholas chabot

Nicolas Chabot Creative Director and Owner of Le Galion -Photo MC

While at Esxence 2015, we stopped by and met with Nicolas Chabot, The Creative Director of Le Galion one of CaFleureBon’s favourite “New Old Houses”.   The perfumery was founded in 1930 by Prince Murat (brother in law to Napoléon I).  The name Le Galion refers to the glorious ships of yesteryear that referenced travel, escape and freedom.  Five years later the company was sold to Paul Vacher, an esteemed French perfumer who co signed Arpege, Rumeur and Scandal for Lanvin with Andre Fraysse.  He also created perfumes for Dior including Miss Dior (with Jean Carles) and Diorling.

LEGALION perfume old hollywood

Marilyn Monroe wore Sortilege 1950 Stork Club

At its peak, Le Galion perfumes were sold around the globe and were wildly popular especially amongst the glamorous old Hollywood set.

vintage le galion ads le snob  sortilege

Vintage Le Galion Ads

The historical Le Galion advertising images are also a visual treat. They are incredibly well done and offer a gorgeous slice of life through the decades and are quite covetable. Unfortunately the house was sold in 1980 to an American group and was mismanaged before disappearing from view. Thankfully in 2014, Le Galion had fresh wind to buoy its sails. Perfumes from this revered French house have been brought back to life with the care and attention they deserve thanks to Nicolas Chabot. The resurrected Le Galion range includes Sortilège, Snob, Iris, Tubéreuse, La Rose, Special For Gentlemen, Whip, Eau Noble and 222.  CaFleureBon has reviewed them here (Le Galion range by Elisabeth de Feydeau)

queen's armada kirsty mitchell

The Queen's Armada Kirsty Mitchell

Le Galion has not been resting on its laurels since its relaunch and six new perfumes were showcased at Esxence – The Scent of Excellence 2015, with a mix of something old and something new. Please welcome Vetyver (a re-working), Cuir and Aesthete, all in EDP formulation. In addition, La Collection Singulière was displayed comprising three new perfumes in extraits de parfum – Sortilège Elixir, Essence Noble ( a re-working) and Sovereign. These new editions will be available later in the year and will be housed in 100ml bottles. Now let’s take you on a sail on the high seas and give you an overview of the new perfumes.

vetyver vintage le galion

Vintage Le Galion Ad Vetyver

THE NEW Le Galion Eau De Parfums

The 2015 reformulation of  Vetyver was first created in 1968 and I like to imagine that in those times of sexual liberation women may have taken their boyfriend’s bottles and liberally sprayed this on skin. It’s fresh and light up top with bergamot, mandarin and refreshing herbal notes. Vetyver takes time to warm, before revealing a smooth tonka, vetiver and musky base that provides an endearing contrast to what’s gone before. It’s an assuredly simple fragrance and is all the better for it. This would be a perfect spring or summer scent as the chilled, crispness of Vetyver makes way for the sun’s warmth. Perfumer: Thomas Fontaine who has worked on the original formula of Paul Vacher.

danielcraigleatherjacket

 Daniel Craig wearing a  brown leather jacket

Cuir 2015 : This leather rendition is what I’d term a classically styled perfume that has a masculine edge. To me this is a well-worn brown leather jacket draped on a man. Every fold of its being has contoured to his body over time. It’s familiar, and gives comfort just when he craves that second skin. The opening is a mild brew of bergamot and quickly transitions to a warm, rich leather accord that never errs sweet or too fruity. There is a substantial body to this perfume and the dry down is full leather jacket, with touches of lily and a sumptuous base of sandalwood, ambergris and musk.  Cuir lovingly embraces you like the lover you dream of. Perfumer : Vanina Murraciole.

 

_A_Portrait_of_John_Singer_Sargent Giovanni_Boldini_(1842-1931)_-

John Sargent Singer Painted by Giovanni Boldini

Aesthete (2015) : Pays homage to Paul Vacher who was a lover of the arts and a pianist to boot. This perfume is an interesting modern composition that hits the sweet spot of marrying leather and oud. The opening is contemporary oriental and starts with a bang. It’s warm and inviting as the bergamot makes way for a spiced breath of incense, davana and saffron.  It’s a captivating start and oud is definitely noticeable in this fragrance but it doesn’t take on that medicinal aspect that can be off putting, as its accompaniments are incense and a leathery accord that smells simply divine.  There is a smidgen of sweetness in the base, and a slighty syrupy, treacly aspect with additional warmth from the vanilla and sandalwood.  This fragrance will make you yearn for exotic travels. Its charms lure me through tiny, cobbled back streets in ancient cities, inhaling smells from the surroundings and discovering the new in the well-trodden paths. Perfumer : Vanina Murraciole.

 

the queen's armada ships

The Queen's Armada Kirsty Mitchell

THE NEW EXTRAITS DE PARFUM :

 

marilyn monroe  all about eve  1950

Marilyn Monroe All About Eve 1950

Sortilège Elixir (2015) :  Think of golden sunlight, Marilyn Monroe and those bleach blonde locks circa All About Eve.  She was an ingénue up against the grand dame Bette Davis and Anne Baxter in this glorious they don’t make ‘em like they used to film, but managed to make an impression. Apparently she wore the original while making the movie. Sortilège Elixir is a floral symphony of intense gorgeousness.  In this concentrated intense version of the original there seems to be more of everything. There are aldehydes and blooms galore in this orchestration.  The conductor coaxes the best from the players, including rose, jasmine, narcissus, mimosa and iris. If you’re a fan of old school florals that harken back to glamorous days gone by you should give this a whirl.  It’s bold, bright and beautiful. Perfume: Marie Duchene who has worked on Paul Vacher’s original formula.

She’ll-Wait-For-You-In-The-Shadows-Of-Summer  kirsty mitchell

I'll Wait for You in the Shadow of Summer Kirsty Mitchell

Essence Noble (2015) : Essence Noble is another leather centric fragrance, but this time played out in a lighter, greener style than Cuir and Aesthete. It is a reworking of the base of Eau Noble (1972), the last fragrance created by Paul Vacher. Essence Noble plays with a full citrus opening, laden with a zesty lemon and green mandarin. The leather accord blends perfectly with moss and a touch of sage. There is also patchouli and cedar, but it’s never a heavy scent. This to me is an energising perfume and I imagine being outdoors with Essence Noble to freshen and awaken the senses. Perfumer : Marie Duchêne

orientalist painting sultan  guard rudolf ernst

Sultan Guard Rudolf Ernst Orientalist

Sovereign (2015) : This new creation celebrates the 85th anniversary of Le Galion and is a tribute to its founder Prince Murat.  It’s an ode to travel and spice routes that the grand old ships sailed in days gone by. This oriental fragrance is spiced with a heavy sprinkling of black pepper and woods, with lush florals in the form of rose and iris. Sovereign is very masculine to my nose mainly due to the type of thumping, dry woody base that doesn’t work well on me, but I’m sure Sovereign will have its fans particularly of those who enjoy dark deep fragrances heavily spiced.  Perfumers: Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel.

Sr. Contributor Megan Paki and Author of  meganinsaintemaxime.com

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Disclosure: Samples provided by Le Galion at Esxence

le galion 2015  perfumes discovery set

Photo Michelyn

Thanks to Nicolas Chabot of Le Galion we have a worldwide draw for a discovery set of 7.5 ml x 6 for a reader anywhere in the world adn they are not readily available at this time. To be eligible you must be a registered reader, follow the instructions here and yes we do check. Please leave a comment with which of the six new Le Galion fragrances appeal to you the most and where you live. Draw ends 4/19/2015

 

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

 

 

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48 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    I may like to try Vetyver the most because this citrusy, herbal vetyver seems to be close to the original and doesn’t look entirely modern. this also reminds me how my package of vintage galion vetyver was stolen and there were not but 2 big full vetyver bottles along with few Ralph Lauren Safari minis. I have been aware of the Galion brand for quite a while because my research for vintage fragrances would often yield Sortilege. best of luck and thank you so much for the draw. I am in the US

  • Oh, there’s no question: it’s Sortilège Elixir that I most want to smell! I love aldehydes and old-school florals, so Megan’s description has completely taken me in. I’m in the US. Thank you for the draw.

  • What a cool dose of history! It’s such an amazing feat to rebirth a perfume house, bravo M. Chabot! (qu’il est mignon, non?)

    The adverts are especially iconic… and quite a double entendre there… ahhhh the 70’s. 😉

    cheers!

  • With no doubt, Cuir sounds right down my alley as I love and own so many leather fragrances. Thanks for the draw and I’m in Austria.

  • MikasMinion says:

    Sortilège Elixir is the one that appeals to me most with Aesthete running a close second. I love big aldehydic florals. I’m in the U.S.

  • Oh, this is easy. Sortilège Elixir. I am first and foremost a floral lover who adores the old school glamorous perfumes. There is very little like them anymore. That is a lovely picture of Marilyn Monroe – perhaps the nicest I’ve seen. I’m guessing in 1950 she was still somewhat naive, not knowing what Hollywood would eventually do to her. I’m in the US.

  • I do like this brand, so classical and classy at the same time.
    I’m very curious about these new perfumes : the aoud/leather combo in “Aesthete” sounds very nice… I’m in France. Thank you!

  • Marcopietro says:

    I do not know the original scents by Le Galion, but I heard some of them re-issues and I find them very well built and wearable. Even these new releases sound attractive, for real reasons I am curious about all of them.
    “Sovereign” maybe could be my favorite.
    I live in Italy.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Aesthete sounds amazing! These all look very lovely though =) I’m in Taiwan, thanks for the draw and I hope they become available soon!

  • Very nice review, it was very interesting to read. I think that these all fragrance are fabulous, but I think Cuir would appeals to me the most, because I very like leathery perfumes. I live in Europe.

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    More than one of the Le Galion perfumes in this review appeals but I’m singling out “Sortilège Elixir” for the sheer heady anticipation the description supplied. Who could resist “a floral symphony of intense gorgeousness”? Like Marilyn Monroe’s Sugar Kane “I get goosepimply all over” at the thought:-)

  • “Aesthete” because it appears from the description to be a somewhat gourmand kind of perfume with notes of vanilla and sandalwood “slighty syrupy”.
    “This fragrance will make you yearn for exotic travels” to grand bazaars in the Orient I would add as a finishing touch.
    I live in EU and I thank both for the review and the lovely images/paintings and draw as well.

  • Sortilige Elixir is my choice too. Golden sunlight in a bottle sounds very appealiing! I love that some of these old houses are getting another chance. I am in the US. Thanks for the Draw!

  • The Elixir appeals most to me, followed closely by Aesthete. I’m so excited to see Le Galion again, and so glad their scents have been getting some good reviews and well-deserved buzz. I’m in the US.

  • I would go with Cuir. I liked very much the review of this one and the association with Daniel Craig only made it better in my mind.

    I am in EU. Thanks!

  • They all sound great. I love it when perfume houses revisit old scents. As a lover of big florals, I’d pick Sortilige Elixir. I’m in the US and thanks for the draw.

  • Oh man! Oh man! Oh man! These sound amazing specially Cuir 2015, the description sounds truly amazing. When this is going to be distributed in the US? Leather plus sandalwood, ambergris and musk? Yes please!
    Thanks for this amazing draw. Live in the US

  • I haven’t been able to find the Le Galion line in the United States and ended up paying a large amount for a sampler set to be shipped to me. Sortilege and Iris are my favorite of that bunch.

    I can’t tell you how excited I am that Le Galion is continuing to release back-catalog and new scents. Sovereign sounds so beautiful: an Oriental rose with black pepper? Please let it be the replacement for my (reformulated and defaced) Parfum Sacre. I live in the United States.

  • I’d like to try all of these, but perhaps the Sortilège Elixir most. I’m in the U.S.

  • I would like to try several I’m sure. Probably would like to try Aesthete the most. Liked the description. U.S.

  • All the fragrances must be very nice. It is easy to find a reason why to try every of them. I’d love to see Thomas Fontaine’s work on Vetyver, as well as “old school floral” in Sortilège Elixir. I like Le Galion and I’ve tried some of their fragrances. Whip and 222 are so beautiful. This house gets my full attention.
    I’m in the EU, Croatia. Thanks.

  • Well for me it would clearly be Sortilége! God how I love those big old style florals. The more aldehydes the better! Thanks! I’m in the USA.

  • I love florals so I’m intrigued by Sortilege, but lately am in the mood for something dark, which is odd for spring. But there I am, also lusting after Sovereign. So great to hear about this house reopening. I am in the US. Thanks.

  • I’m torn between the floral symphony of Sortilege Elixir and the light, green leather of Essence Noble. If I had to choose i think I would go for Essence Noble.
    Writing from Canada.
    Thanks for the generous draw opportunity.

  • Tracy Lebon says:

    These sound lovely! I think the Cuir was most intriguing to me. Thank you! I’m in the US.

  • I love rich and complex aldehydic florals so Sortilege Elixir is the one calling my name out.

    It’s great to see an old perfume house reviving their classics and bringing out new perfumes that draws on the company’s heritage.

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw

  • Chapeau Clack says:

    I might not be original in my choice, but I’m just all about grand aldehydic florals lately, so without doubt it’s Sortiliege Elixir. Thank you very much for the fab draw, and I’m in Russia.

  • Anna in Edinburgh says:

    I forgot to confirm in my comment that I’m in Edinburgh, Scotland, UK, EU!

    (More than one of the Le Galion perfumes in this review appeals but I’m singling out “Sortilège Elixir” for the sheer heady anticipation the description supplied. Who could resist “a floral symphony of intense gorgeousness”? Like Marilyn Monroe’s Sugar Kane “I get goosepimply all over” at the thought:-)

  • Llonia Glynn says:

    Thanks for another evocative and stunning review Megan.
    As a woman of ‘a certain age’ the sixties evoke freedom, self discovery and courage.
    1968 was the year my beloved daughter was born.
    So for me it’s Vetyver please!

  • Essence Noble is definitely my favorite just by reading that! I love leather, but it can be harsh at times. I think I’d really enjoy the mix of citrus and green notes with the leather. These fragrances all sounds really enjoyable and the house of Le Galion did an outstanding job! I’m in Canada

  • Sortilege Elixir appeals to me the most as I love my florals! I am in the U.S. Thank you for the draw.

  • Of the six new Le Galion fragrances, the deep, dark Sovereign appeals to me the most with its heavy sprinkling of black pepper. I live in the U.S.

  • Bloglovin – jalesley
    Warsaw, Poland
    222 description speaks to me, I wish I could test it.

  • amberlavender says:

    i have a tiny decant of the original Sortilege by Paul Vacher which I paid a fortune for on eBay
    So glad that the House of Galion is being restored and Sortilege elixir sounds phenomenal with big florals and aldehyde. Essence Nobile also attracts me as does Cuir, but that could be the picture of Daniel Craig
    I live in the Usa

  • “Sovereign will have its fans particularly of those who enjoy dark deep fragrances heavily spiced.”

    That alone makes me want this one! It sounds perfect and I love spicy and dark fragrances! I also think the bottle designs are quite elegant.

    Canada

  • It’s the Vetyver that calls to me-is that Julie Christie? Wow. I am in Canada, and now am off to read your reviews of the older perfumes from this line-esp. Snob 🙂

    Carole

  • Very cool! The line sounds like it leans towards masculine, which is not a bad thing at all since I love wearing many non-aquatic masculine fragrances. Aesthete definitely appeals to me the most! With incense and saffron and a sweetish base, it sounds heavenly! Sovereign also sounds right up my alley. Love the pictures esp The Queen’s Armada
    thank you for the reviews and draw.
    USA

  • Sortilège Elixir appeals to me the most. It sounds so old school glamorous! I’m in the US, thanks!

  • Cuir 2015 is definitely my style. Leather fragrances have always been my favorite and this one sounds like it’s be amazing!

    I’m a Canadian reader

  • “The perfumery was founded in 1930 by Prince Murat (brother in law to Napoléon I”. Some mistake here, I think! Napoleon died in 1821.