New Perfume Review: Tom Ford Velvet Orchid Eau de Parfum (Signature Fragrance 2014)

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 Gamelin’s Daughter by Kirsty Mitchell Photography

What’s the difference between a scandal and a rumor? A scandal provokes with explicit detail while a rumor fascinates with a touch of mystery. While Tom Ford’s aesthetic has always leaned towards the former, at least in marketing (I can’t think of another designer that managed to come up with an ad campaign for eyewear that got banned), with Velvet Orchid he remains squarely within the bounds of good taste without sacrificing any frisson of intrigue.

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The Givaudan Perfumers for Tom Ford Velvet Orchid

Top:  Antoine Maisondieu, Shyamala Maisondieu, Bottom: Calice Becker and Yann Vasnier

Velvet Orchid, which debuted late Spring is the new flanker for the best-selling fragrance Black Orchid which exploded onto the market in 2006.   It was composed by a dream team of super star perfumers from Givaudan: Antoine Maisondieu, Shyamala Maisondieu (read about her creations for Creative Director Alexandra de Montfort Rouge Bunny Rouge here), Calice Becker and a star of our young perfumer series, Yann Vasnier. Though I admit to being prejudiced against the idea of numerous variations on the same theme in perfume, in this case the additional refinement is a blessing.

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 Tom Ford Ready To Wear Winter 2011

Don’t let the word refinement confuse you into thinking Velvet Orchid is shy. The fragrance opens in a strong floral explosion with a sharp citrus edge. The Tom Ford site mentions cool citrus, floral petal notes, honey, and rum ( other sites are more specific, listing orchid, rose, jasmine, magnolia, and narcissus as the floral notes and bergamot and mandarin for citrus, but we cannot be sure). In the opening, Velvet Orchid is very intense and prickly, with the citrus and magnolia so sharp that I didn’t think I was going to enjoy the fragrance. Imagine a tall, pale woman dressed all in purple except for a studded collar, sitting down at a table in a cafe and staring at you intently until she makes you feel uncomfortable enough to want to leave and you’ll have a good sense of the opening of the scent.

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 Guinevere van Seenus by Sølve Sundsbø for Vogue Italia, March 2012

However, the warmer notes at the heart of Velvet Orchid rise up quickly and give it an entirely different feel. Rose and jasmine add a creamy smoothness to the warmth and sweetness of the honey and rum. It’s as if the woman removes the collar, gets up and walks out into the sunlight. You follow her, intrigued, and are surprised to see her stretch out and soak up some sunlight. If Tom Ford’s orchids are tigers, Black Velvet roars while Velvet Orchid purrs. Base notes of peru balsam, labdanum, myrrh, sandalwood and suede provide a delicious dry down worthy of any of the classic Orientals like Opium or Raffinée. The touch of spice and wood keeps this sweet fragrance from becoming saccharine and puts it solidly in vamp territory.

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 Tom Ford Velvet Orchid/Gigi Hadid for Tom Ford Velvet Orchid

 Although the Tom Ford Private Blend selections are more expensive and more exclusive, Velvet Orchid matches or surpasses quite a few of them in complexity and glamour. Longevity and sillage are both excellent. In my opinion, The Signature Fragrances such as Black Orchid (2006), Violet Blonde (2011), Tom Ford Noir (2012) and Velvet Orchid (2014) are examples of why Tom Ford is one of the finest designer fragrance brands around.

Disclosure: Review based upon sample provided by Sephora. Tom Ford Velvet Orchid  sells for $112.00  for 50 ml and is now available in100 ml/ $159

— Nancy Knows, Deputy Editor and Beauty Editor

Editor's Note: While at Sniffapalooza Spring Fling 2014, May 3, a Tom Ford SAs  previewed Velvet Orchid at Bergdorf Goodman. I was standing next to Chandler Burr who seemed as impressed as I was; I actually prefer this to the original, not sure about Chandler. -Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief

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9 comments

  • ringthing says:

    I prefer the Signature line to the Private Blends and I’ve spritzed Velvet Orchid at Sephora a few times. It is lovely but I think I like the original more, it’s darker and less fruity. Velvet Orchid is way better than most of what’s out there. Thanks for the review!

  • Laurels says:

    I’ll have to try this if I get the chance. (Sahara Noir never made it into my local stores, I think.) The black truffle note in Black Orchid made it unwearable for me, but if it’s toned down or gone in VO, it could be just right.

  • Sandi L says:

    I could go for a wee bit of purring 😉 Sounds fabulous with the base notes that I love and more than enter me in to a purring mood.. Nice review !

  • AD says:

    I like this one better than Black Orchid. The original is perhaps more memorable but it’s not the easiest perfume to wear.

  • Jeannie 07 says:

    Velvet Orchid is definitely much better than Black Orchid. More refined and elegant than the original one will become a hit especially to women who prefer sensual yet more subtle smells

  • Darilyn says:

    I like Black Orchid better than Velvet Orchid. It is pleasant enough, but not something I would purchase.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    Orchid + rum + vanilla = heaven! This sounds like a deliciously sexy grown-up fragrance, separating the women from the girls. I’d like to try a fragrance from the same family as Black Orchid, but a little sweeter and a bit less ferocious.