New Perfume Review: Parfums MDCI Les Indes Galantes (Cécile Zarokian) + Baroque Interlude Draw

Claude marchal Cecile zarokian

Cladue Marchal and Cécile Zarokian

This capricious, extravagant perfume is Cécile Zarokian’s third for Creative Director Claude Marchal’s beautiful luxe niche house Parfums MDCI. She created the sublime La Nuit Andalouse and Cio Cio San, a lychee-drenched floral wonder and one of my favourite scents of 2015. It is no secret how much I love Cécile’s work, each new launch reveals just how sophisticated and adept she is at working with exquisite materials and complex briefs. And yet nothing is heavy handed or overplayed, she understands nuanced memory and frivolity just as much as sensuality and connection to the time and place of the olfactory story. Cio Cio San was of course inspired by the love-damaged geisha of Puccini’s tragic opera and gave Céline the opportunity to create a exuberant and at the same time poignant floral bower that demonstrated her ability to balance high drama and petal-strewn pathos in scent.

Jean-Philippe Rameau  Les Indes Galantes

Jean-Philippe Rameau  Les Indes Galantes

Now we have Les Indes Galantes (The Amourous Indies), described as an exotic gourmand and inspired by the opéra-ballet of the same name by French baroque composer Jean-Philippe Rameau (1683-1764). Rameau’s work may be unfamiliar to some, but his influence on the world of French opera and in particular the harpsichord in undeniable. He was an important musical theorist for the early part of his life and published his most well-known work Traité de l’Harmonie (Treatise on Harmony) in 1722 to great critical acclaim. It was in his late 50s that he turned more seriously to composition and opera in particular. Les Indes Galantes was first performed in 1735; differing versions followed with the final piece consisting of a prologue and four separate stories loosely connected by the theme of universal love, a concept elaborated on in the prologue. The first story, Le Turc Génereux takes place on a far flung island in the Indian Ocean, the second, Les Incas du Perou in Peru, the third, Les Fleurs in Persia and finally Les Sauvages takes place in the New World, in Illinois. The final part of the quartet was inspired by the meeting in Paris of Louis XV in 1725 with Chief Agapit Chicagou of the Metchigamea tribe and other Chiefs who had travelled across the Atlantic from Illinois. They swore allegiance to Louis and delighted the king with traditional American Indian dances in the Théatre-Italien.  You can hear the rhythms and oddity of these dances in Rameau’s liquid and lively score for Les Sauvages.

Helen Bonham Carter  Tim Walker

Helen Bonham Carter Photo Tim Walker

Baroque implies embellished, decorated, somehow a little excessive. I don’t really see it like this at all, if you take the word back to its origin, whether applied to music, art or architecture, the word or concept takes on a different slant and visionary hue. The word baroque is derived from the Portuguese word barrocco, meaning misshapen pearl.

Baroque fashion vogue

Vogue Italia 2012  Dolce & Gabbana Return to Baroque

If you think about the actual beauty of these extraordinary objects, glittering, lustrous and imperfectly, defiantly glorious, the word baroque becomes a highly charged description, implying beauteous divisive difference. Les Indes Galantes’ baroque character is unveiled in Rameau’s masterly mix of rhythms, styles, choruses, dances and witty vocal interaction. There is verve, cheek, repartee and flirtation. All of it held together by Rameau’s eloquent and flowing score.

baroqueConstance Jablonski for Vogue Brazil

Constance Jablonski for Vogue Brazil

Les Indes Galantes is a triumphant gourmand, ambrosial and rich but composed with Cécile’s usual delicacy and deftness of touch. I adore gourmands, but they abound these days in perfumery and it takes a very talented perfumer to really add something different to the template or create a satiated state of shimmering perfection with relatively straightforward materials. The notes in Les Indes Galantes are deliciously rendered and include orange, almond, raspberry, cinnamon and clove, geranium, vanilla and a warm triptych of frankincense, benzoin and labdanum in the base.

This golden triumvirate adds a subtle yet pervasive smoky leathered undertone to the gourmand proceedings. The bright, sweet orange opening is fabulous, mixed with the milky bitterness of the almond, giving the perfume a frangipane patisserie effect on the skin that I just love. A dusting of cinnamon throws the direction off whack slightly, mixed with a very subtle floral clove effect, the spices hint at the Persian tradition of sugared savouries, mixed sensations to surprise and intrigue the palate. As in Cio Cio San with that heavenly lychee, as it is here with a luscious, rather sultry raspberry note, the fruit reduced down to a dark, glistening syrup and trickled like bloody wine over the spices, resins and smoky powder.  

Alek Wek in Jean Paul Gaultier Dress, from Les Indes Galantes Collection

Alek Wek in Jean Paul Gaultier Dress, from Les Indes Galantes Collection Spring Summer 2000 Photo By Karl Lagerfeld

There is a wicked grandiosity to this lip-smacking work from Cécile and Claude, a glossy berry fumy juice that smells intoxicating on the skin. Like all of her work, it has tenderness, exquisite texture and a swathe of thrillingly arranged notes. But befitting the subtle splendour of Claude Marchal’s MDCI line there is a gorgeous frisson of exotic mystery behind the gourmand magic to ensure loyalty and obsession.

 Disclosure: Sample of Les Indes Galantes kindly sent by Claude Marchal at MDCI, opinions my own.

The Silver Fox, Guest Contributor

Editor's Note: Art Direction, MC Cécile Zarokian was a 2014 Best Perfumer of The Year

Les Indes Galantes MDCI

Thanks to Claude Marchal  we have a draw for a 75 ml bottle of Les Indes Galantes for a registered reader anywhere in the world (you must do this or your comment won’t count). Please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Les Indes Galantes from TSF review, if you have a favorite MDCI perfume and where you live. Draw closes 12/26/2015

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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57 comments

  • I enjoyed the descriptions of things baroque and especially the raspberry note of Les Indes Galantes, “the fruit reduced down to a dark, glistening syrup and trickled like bloody wine over the spices, resins and smoky powder”. Yes, please! This sounds like a gorgeous gourmand, especially in the deft words of TSF. I’ve only sampled a few scents from Parfums MDCI, of which Invasion Babare was my favorite. Thank you all for the generous opportunity, I’m in the US.

  • this perfume review is very intriguing. It is inspired by Rameau’s opera ballet which was first performed in the 18th century. the perfume also seems very French due to gourmandy nature but as expected from Cecile, it still manages to bring something new to the table. My fav creation from MDCI is Invasion Barbare though I am trying to get my hand on that Kurkdjian discontinued composition from MDCI which became a victim of IFRA regulations. thanks so much for the generous draw. would make perfect Christmas surprise. I am in the US.

  • For me, the appeal is all about that resin base. As fruit notes go, raspberry ranks up there with rhubarb as one note I find hard to get very wrong even in clumsy hands. I’ve only skirted the edges of Parfums MDCI and can’t claim one as my favorite yet, but there’s still plenty of time for that.

    I’m in the USA, thanks for the wonderful drawing and happy holidays to y’all!

  • Fruit and frankincense sounds delicious, as does the “smoky, leathered undertone.”

    Other MDCI pefumes I have tried are Ambre Topkapi and Cuir Garamante, both of which I really enojoyed.

    U.S.

  • baroness_octothorpe says:

    Smoke, orange, and almond? Cut me off a slice of that! I’m in the US, and thanks for the draw!

  • I love gourmands. Curious how cinnamon can throw it off whack. Gourmet ‘magic’? Would love to try. I know this line reviews well in blogs I’ve read. I have not tried anything from this line. It’s not carried in my area of Portland OR. Thanks for the generosity of MDCI.

  • What DON’T I like about the sound of this fragrance??!! It sounds luscious, gorgeous, intoxicating, delicious. . .and I love all things baroque! My favorite MDCI perfume is Rose de Siwa. Thanks for the great review, and the wonderful giveaway. In the US. Cheers & Happy Holidays!

  • I’ve only tried Invasion Barbare. Les Indes Galantes sounds like an amazing, scrumptious gourmand. My absolute favorite genre of fragrances. I live in the U.S.. Thanks once again.

  • I loved the description of Rameau’s music, it sounds complex and multi layered. Les Indes Galantes also sounds like a mille feuille pastry and I would love to try it. I am in Australia

  • When I see MDCI as the house, I triple cross my fingers for good luck. I really admire everything I’ve sampled from this house. Impossible to pick a favorite. I love the description of a gentle gourmand, but it is the base notes that have me salivating….my favorite of frankincense, benzoin and labdanum. I am in USA. Thank you for a generous draw.

  • I love that description of raspberry syrup on top of resins and spices. It sounds so tempting. I really like Nuit Andalouse from MDCI. Ms. Zarokian is quickly becoming one of my favorite perfumers. I also love her work for Amouage.

    Thanks for the draw. I live in Canada.

  • Extravagant grandiosity and shimmering perfection. How could I not want to win Les indes Garantes. I am familiar with Tango by Cecile and have always wanted to try Nuit Andelouse. I would love to find out how all those patisserie notes sit over incense
    I live in Canada but have a US address

  • TSF’s review is very intriguing and the description…”smoky leathered undertone to the gourmand proceedings”… U sold me this. 😀
    I haven’t try any MDCI Perfumes but I heard so many good things about this house and I hope Les Indes Galantes will be my first one.

    I live in Malaysia. Thank you for the draw. 🙂

  • Every time I read about an MDCI perfume, it sounds like an absolute dream! I really have to get y hands on some samples one of these days. My favourite part of this review was describing the scent as ambrosial. How intriguing! Who wouldn’t want to smell like the food of the gods? I love well-crafted, spicy gourmands. I live in Canada and would be absolutely thrilled to win Les Indes Galantes!

  • A nice, informative and complete review, as always, TSF!
    As a gourmand perfumes lover, this one will be on my test-list: fruit, frankincense, leather undertone… smoky powder… a fumy juice…?! I’m also quite familiar to Cecilia’s work, so this new fragrance sounds even more appealing to me.
    “Cio Cio San” is a favorite of mine in this line until now…

    I’m in the EU (France). Thanks for the draw!

  • I liked the creative concept of la nuit Andalouse about lychee-drenched floral because I´m from Andalucia and know how real is this term about drenched flower.

    I haven’t ever tried any fragance from MDCI Perfumes but they have to be amazing

    I live in Europe. Thanks for the draw

  • I was intrigued by the description of the contrasts in the fragrance…the raspberry, bitter almond and smokey leather. I would love to try it! My favorite MDCI perfume is Enlevement Au Serail. I live in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • Beautiful review! I very love the notes of this perfume. It sound incredibly wonderful, like a tale. I have never had a chance to try any of MDCI perfume. I live in Europe. Thank you for the chance.

  • I’m still unsure about gourmands because I haven’t explored them at all. But this sounds so lovely. “Glossy, berry, fumy juice that smells intoxicating on the skin”? Um…yes, please. I’ve only tried Rose de Siwa from MDCI, and It made me want to know more about the house for sure. I’d say this is a perfect place to start. Thanks for the draw! I live in the U.S.

  • No need to enter me in the draw, but I just had to say that everything MDCI is divine, and everything The Silver Fox writes is, too!

  • Wow! That combo of orange, almond, and cinnamon sounds amazing! I’m in the US and my favorite MDCI is Chypre Palatin – masterpiece.

  • John Paul Boukis says:

    The profile for Les Indes Galantes sounds like the love child of Lutens and Amouage. The fruit incense contrast reminds me of my favorite Guerlain, Spiriteuse Double Vanille. I haven’t tried enough MDCI to know my favorite, though the quality is evident. Thank you for the draw (US).

  • bunchofpants says:

    I’m always up for a “gorgeous frisson of exotic mystery!” I’ve not tried anything from Parfums MDCI yet, but after reading Luca Turin’s rave review of Invasion Barbare I have put it on the list for my next sample buy. I’m in USA.

  • Hmm… raspberry, almond, vanilla and cinnamon. Sounds delicious! With a final touch of incense. Heavenly! I am really looking forward in trying this one. My favourite from MDCI is Invasion Barbare. I am from EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • A absolute fabulous read. I was sold before I read the last paragraph but a glossy berry that’s intoxicating on the skin was over the top! I don’t think I’ve smelled many rich gourmands quite like this. Aloha from Hawaii and never had the chance to smell a MDCI fragrance to date. Thanks for the giveaway.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    The review makes this sound so great! Loved the historical background and, silly me, I’m just now realizing the theme of classical works of art that a lot of MDCI fragrances are based on–Enlevement, Cio Cio San. I loved how the review talked about Cecile Zakorian’s deft hand with what could be weighty materials and that appeals to me the most. She took huge white flowers, and syrupy fruity-floral notes to create subtle but sumptuous scents in Nuit Andalouse and Cio Cio San. I love the notes listed for Les Indes, but realize how a scent like this could go wrong in the wrong hands–the subtlety and nuance mentioned in the reviews makes me feel Cecile succeeded! I love a great deal of MDCI scenes, especially Chypre Palatin, Invasion Barbare, and all the others I’ve mentioned in this post. I’m in the US and thanks so much for the giveaway.

  • Paramedica SP says:

    Amazing release from MDCI and what a great review. I’m a big fan of gourmet fragrances and this one seems to be so great, I heard one person say that it smells like Christmas cookies.
    Les Indes Galantes is a solid release of MDCI. Just seeing the the set of notes, made me salivate. I can’t wait to test it. My favorite MDCI is Cuir Garamante.
    I’m in the U.S. and thanks so much for the draw.
    Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

  • This sounds like a wonderful gourmand for this festive time of year, and I agree with TSF that at this point in the game, it really does take something different and special for a gourmand (as much as I love them) to stand out from the crowd. I’ve never tried a MDCI fragrance, but they sound marvelous. I live in the U.S., and happy holidays to all! Merci!

  • I love “exotic gourmands”! I love that I’m always learning something new from Cafleurebon. I have not heard of Jean-Philippe Rameau before reading this review, so I’m learning something new!

    Les Indes Galantes sounds beautiful! I love orange, almond, and vanilla notes, so I know I would love this one! The combination of the fruits and the spices – cinnamon, clove, frankincense and labdanum makes this perfume a sophisticated gourmand. I feel that most gourmands fragrances can be too linear, but this one appears to be very complex.

    I don’t yet own a MDCI fragrance, but I did try a sample of Peche Cardinal and I LOVED it!

    I live in the USA and thank you for the draw!

  • I am utterly delighted by The Silver Fox’s description of the Rameau opera-ballet. I had heard of Rameau, but I had never seen or heard any of his work performed. I went immediately to YouTube and watched and listened! It is especially fascinating to me that Chicagou, the Metchigamea chief who visited Paris, is commemorated in this opera-ballet that inspires this fragrance. I hope this gorgeous flacon will find its way to Chicago, Illinois, the traditional lands of the Illinois confederacy to which the Metchigamea belonged.

    The descriptions of the scents of fruits and spices over resins truly made my mouth water. This is a fragrance that contains that which we all want — pleasure, and mystery, and warmth.

    My favorite MDCI is Chypre Palatin, by the marvelous Duchaufour.

    I am in Chicago, Illinois, USA.

    Les Indes Galantes, I invite you to come see the land that birthed Rameau’s inspiration!

  • What a wonderfully composed review about what sounds like a wonderfully composed fragrance! I also really appreciated The Silver Fox’s championing of baroque music. It seems fashionable to look down on them today, but the baroque composers have always been some of my favorites, Rameau included (I was listening to his Nouvelles Suites just this past weekend!). It’s hard to deny the technical complexity of their work, but they are masterful without failing to also be pleasing to the ear. As for the scent, I’d love to see a gourmand re-worked in the baroque style – complex, elegant but also beautiful and pleasing. Moreover, the ‘frangipane patisserie effect’ has me completely sold! I’ve yet to try a Parfums MDCI fragrance but they are on my ‘to sample’ list! I’m in the US.

  • Berries and sugared savories? Yes, please! I’d never heard of Rameau, so I enjoyed getting a musical education along with a fragrance review. I’m in the US, and my favorite MDCIs are Invasion Barbare and Enlevement au Serail. Thanks for the drawing.

  • Santa Batistini says:

    Wow! Wow! Wow! This new MDCI sounds delicious. Gosh I hope one day I get the chance to try. I never had the chance to test a MDCI, but I’ve heard so much about Invasion Barbare, I believe it is the most famous of the collection. I’m in the US.

  • I have read a lot about Cecile Zarokian and she seems really talented.
    The review as so beautifully written and I loved the photos especially of Helen Bonham Carter. The in depth story of the Rameau opera is greatly appreciated and I plan on checking out more
    My favorite MDCI is Peche Cardinal
    Thank you very much for the opportunity and I live in the US

  • Rameau is one of my favorite composers, and this perfume sounds amazing. I enjoyed hearing about the “golden triumvirate” in the base, and the “wicked grandiosity” of the perfume as a whole. I’m in the US.

  • Invasion Barbare is one of my favorite scents of all time, its seriously a fragrance every guy should have. I like the sound of this new release. And of course the bottle looks exquisite as always. Thank you for the draw and I’m in Canada.

  • Great review of this new release. My favorite MDCI is Invasion Barbare. That bottle with that carving at the top is a must have in any collection but It’s so pricey. This one seems to have a wonderful smell and very striking, even being a release targeted towards women, as well as most of the MDCI collection, but for being gourmand may be more unisex. I’m in the US.

  • My favorite MDCI is Peche Cardinal. Les Indes Galantes sounds amazing, as I adore gourmands. I live in Switzerland.

  • The perfume notes sounds really nice! Looking forward to sampling this one because I am a big fan of MDCI and I love gourmand scents. My favorite is Cio Cio San. Thank you for the draw! Merry Christmas!
    US resident

  • Oh, goodness. This was basically described as heaven on earth. Almond, frangipane patisserie… I was sold before I could even register the other details about the scent’s progression. As an aside – I love The Silver Fox’s reviews because he always weaves in some lovely details… I did not know the etymology of the word “baroque,” which is almost shameful, as someone who loves pearls almost as much as she loves perfume! I had the frustrating pleasure of trying the tiniest drop of MDCI La Belle Helene, which was enough to convince me that this perfume line must contain some real gems. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw.

  • The intriguing set of notes grabbed my attention and I’ve always admired the MDCI line! I’m in Taiwan and would love to win the bottle =)

  • TSF always writes such stunning reviews. I could almost smell these fabulous fragrance from his description. Loved the contrast between rich, ambrosia notes blended with a delicate touch.

    My favorite MDCI is of course the discontinued one: Enlevement au Serail.

    I am in the U.S.

  • I love gourmands and I trust the quality of MDCI. The notes sounds rich, but I like the idea of delicacy. As with a number of other people, my favorite is the very sadly discontinued Enlevement au Seraiil. I’m in the US.

  • I adore gourmands but they can be cloyng and overpowering so I am always on the lookout for one that is subtle and delicate. My favorite MDCI perfume is Chypre Palatin but Peche Cardinal is a close second. I am in the U.S.

  • I like baroque in all forms of artistic expression in music, architecture, painting etc. I also love gourmand perfumes and this one must be unique with notes like vanilla, almond, orange, raspberry, resins, cinnamon and frankincense sound all like an extravagant yet elegant perfume.
    Never had the chance to experience anything from this house thank you for the chance and the generous draw.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.

  • I enjoy gourmands but they often bore me. The resent one I liked was Kurkdjians oud satin (very gourmand on me) therefor this new offering from MDCI intrigs me like nothing else right now. I enjoyed both of mr Kurkdjians creations for the line also the lovely Peche cardinal. I enjoyed the pictures you choose for this article. They have a modern way in describing Baroque. I am in the photo industry myself so this was my first thought. I also enjoyed the history of Jean-Philippe Rameau . I love musical history. Opera seems to be a big source of inspiration to perfumers. I’m in Sweden. Thank you for this lovely competition.

  • This one sounds to be a great gourmand. I only have tried Invasion Barbare from MDCI line, and I liked. The bottle is another great point from MDCI, it’s very remarkable and it’s stands out the brand. I think that my girlfriend will love Les Indes Galantes, I will look around to check it with her.
    I’m in the U.S.

  • how can I sleep now without getting anxious after read this ‘ Les Indes Galantes is a triumphant gourmand , ambrosial and rich ‘ . Ambrosial? Ohh I need to try this right now! The fragrance notes sounds really good, just what we expected for a great gourmand. I need to try a few MDCI like Invasion Barbare, Ambre Topkapi and Chypre Palatin.

    I am in the U.S.

  • Gourmands always excites me to try. Les Indes Galantes sounds very nice composition made by Cécile Zarokian. Putting raspberry, almond, cloves and cinnamon together with leather, incense and benzoin apparently makes this fragrance a unique delicacy. I only have tried Invasion Barbare.

  • The notes of les Indes Galantes sound amazing – I love gourmands! I don’t own any MDCI perfumes yet. I have tried several and they were all beautifully done. My favorite was Peche Cardinal.

  • I just love the way the scent is described with its dark syrupy raspberry over spices, resins and smoke. I have been looking for red fruit in perfumes with darker notes for the last 6 months and the ones well made are few and hard to find. Now there is one by MDCI which sounds just too perfect. My favourite of the line is Un Coeur en Mai. I live in the EU. Thanks for the draw.

  • I’ve only tried a sample of Invasion Barbare years ago. Les Indes Galantes sounds like an amazing with this gourmand nothes and with this smoky leathered undertone and mixed with rankincense. I live in the U.S.
    Thanks a lot o Claude Marchal and Cafleurebon.

  • ‘a glossy berry fumy juice that smells intoxicating on the skin’. – yes please, i cant think of anything nicer! Lovely review, had me licking my lips and wanting to smell this rich lush baby. I have not tried any MDCI perfumes as yet. Thank you for the draw, I am in the UK.

  • What calls to me about this perfume is its ” wicked grandiosity” which tempers its gourmand deliciousness with wit and “exotic mystery”–not really words I usually associate with luscious gourmands. I am intrigued!
    My favorite MDCI is Enlevement au Seraiil, but I have not tried many.
    Thank you for the review and draw
    USA

  • Wow this one sounds outstanding! I haven’t tried any fragrances from this house but I do love the bottle designs. I am in Canada and thanks for the draw

  • Les Indes Galantes seems to be the best release of MDCI, I have big expectations with this gourmands notes. The Silver Fox gave a great description about Les Indes Galantes very detailed and enlightening.
    I have tried almost all fragrances from MDCI but the fragrance that open my eyes for this brand was Chypre Palatin.
    Thank you for the amazing draw
    USA

  • I’m quite a fan of MDCI. My favorite being Invasion Barbare. I like what they were trying to do with this new one. I have a lot of faith in this house so I know it’ll smell great!

    I’m international (Toronto).