Geoffrey Nejman and Martine Micallef at The TFWA Cannes Exhibition  October 23-25, 2015 (Photo: Parfums. M. Micallef for CaFleureBon)

Strange shadows flicker over the luxurious playgrounds of the rich and carefree. Until now the creamy sensuality of Parfums M.Micallef has been distinguished by a beautiful and languid ambience of Côte d’Azur dazzle, cashmere asylum and exotic opulence. The line is a favourite of ÇaFleureBon Editor in Chief, Michelyn Camen and myself as well, after being kindly sent a selection of the perfumes when I was reviewing Mon Parfum Gold in October last year. The Mon Parfum series, imagined, designed and created by Martine Micallef are my favourites among the collections actually; delicious riffs on the original Mon Parfum, a deeply personal perfume made for Martine Micallef by her husband,perfumer and business partner Geoffrey Nejman, a scent redolent with caramel, passion fruit, musks, orange blossom and vanilla. To me it has a moreish ice cream echo of Mugler’s Angel with a generous dash of Cointreau that somehow keeps the gourmand inundation on the right side of garish. It just smells fabulous and wears down with immense charm and playful panache.

Parfums M.Micallef Boutique in Dubai

There is something very addictive about M.Micallef perfumes; Mon Parfum, Mon Parfum Gold, Mon Parfum Cristal, the Ananda series, the Jewel series – flankers, variations, limited editions, subtle intonations of existing themes, yes. But skin loves them. You smell gilded and lavish, sensual and exquisitely cherished. There is nothing divisive or confrontational chez Martine and Geoffrey. In collaboration with their nose Jean Claude Astier this dynamic and rather unique trio has assembled a collection of quietly expressive and elegant scents. It is discerning perfumery housed in Martine’s personally designed bottles that can be as straightforward or as adorned, personalised, glittering or Swarovski-ed as you like. It is this personal touch and quiet class that has put Parfums M.Micallef into 900 retail outlets worldwide and two stunning jewel-like boutiques in Dubai.

 M.Micallef Akowa by TSF

 

Now we have something different from Martine, Geoffrey and Jean Claude, a murky, atramental rooty juice housed in opaque black glass. Akowa, the new masculine launch from Parfums M.Micallef is presented in an obsidian square flask echoes the flacons in the Jewel collection of perfumes. There is much talk of a secret tribal note buried at the heart of Akowa, a rhizome that Martine and Geoffrey discovered whilst holidaying in Africa.

Photographer Julia Noni Model Jeneil Williams Vogue Germany 2013

An off the track excursion led to a village and a woman pounding a local root with a very distinctive aromatic smell used to impart the skin with an irresistible allure. It is this special moment that purportedly lends Akowa its mysterious swampy, bitter essence. I will allow this rather romantic vision to stand; I’m not entirely sure I buy into it but sometimes perfumers are entitled to retain an element of mystery. Complete material disclosure can be sometimes be tedious and serve little real purpose except to those obsessed with allergens or the minutiae of often meaningless ingredients.

Pablo Picasso in his studio at the Bateau Lavoir African Masks

That aside, whatever the secret oddity encoded in the figgy smooth centre of this singular composition, Parfums M.Micallef have produced a perfume of sophisticated dissonance and despite its deliberate curiosity does have distinctive echoes of some beautiful bygone gents fougères. In my mid-teens I developed a spirited passion for powerful classic masculines like Grey Flannel, Antaeus and the vastly underrated Azzaro pour Homme by Gerard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich and Richard Wirtz. The cocoa dusted through the heart of Akowa’s mix references Dior Homme, Kokorico by Jean Paul Gaultier, Midnight in Paris by Van Cleef & Arpels and the recent elegant Uomo by Valentino, a scent I think every young man should have in his scent wardrobe.

These flirtations with similarity do not do Akowa a disservice; on the contrary, it is increasingly hard to create any sense of originality in the world of men’s perfumery. The patchouli and vetiver alliance in the base are defiantly inky and dry, recalling the lovely darkness of L’Encre Noir by Lalique, another underrated man-scent which goes for a song and yet is a work of gentle craft and excellent stealthy masculinity.  The difference in Akowa is the trademark, inescapable hot rush of vanilla that pervades the composition. M.Micallef love their honeyed sweetness, it equates to symbolising the luxurious smooth wealth and sensuality of their brand vision. The delicious M.Micallef glow. 

Pitti Fragranze M.Micallef Akowa (Photo: Megan)

Yet there is something off in Akowa, at an obtuse angle to the familiar nectarous House creations. The inscrutable black bottle is decorated in raised stylised triangles, an echo perhaps of parched African cracked earth. I remember these fascinating shapes of wide, geometric mud from my childhood in Nigeria, weird and compelling. The fizzy top notes of orange flowers and a subdued bergamot flutter like isolated blossom high above dry ground.

Photographer Julia Noni Model Jeneil Williams Vogue Germany 2013

It is the heart that tips sideways, the so-called secret ingredient, an indefinable vine-like thing, with a fibrous hiss and acerbic catch that plays off the cocoa and fig leaves, creating an austere centre of heirloom fougère at the heart of a classic M.Micallef Cote d’Azur style blockbuster. Akowa doesn’t shout from the skin, it informs. It tells of patience and design, attention to detail and clientele. They say masculine. I say anyone could wear this. It is one of the finest scents that Jean-Claude Astier, Martine and Geoffrey have launched. Akowa is very different in mode and mood from other M.Micallef creations, but it has an odd and lovely ghost of retro class and genuine eccentricity.

The Silver Fox, Contributor and author of The Silver Fox

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen

Thanks to the continued kindness of Geoffrey, Martine, Laurence, Claudia, and Lesley of Parfums M.Micallef we have a 100 ml bottle/195 Euros of Akowa ($265 at Luckyscent)  for a  registered reader (you must do this and use your user name or your comment is invalid) anywhere in the world.  To be eligible please leave a comment with what you found compelling about The Silver Fox’s review, where you live and if you have a favorite M.Micallef fragrance. Draw closes October 31, 2015

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume