Oriza L. Legrand Muguet Fleuri & Foin Fraichment Coupé

Oriza House was launched in 1720 as a purveyor of powders, scents, and other toiletries, and quickly became a favorite of several royal courts, including Louis XV of France and the Imperial Court of Napoleon III. In 1811 Louis Legrand took over and developed the company to its full potential, with a boutique on rue St. Honoré in Paris. The House was then sold to a former associate, Antonin Raynaud, who renamed the company Oriza L. Legrand as an honor to its heritage. The House continued to thrive, and won many accolades, until financial issues forced its closure in the1930's. Today, under the care of TV producer and scent history enthusiast Franck Bellaiche, the archives have been opened and a selection of the fragrances recreated using the traditional artisanal perfume processes, working with small companies throughout France. I was happy to receive samples of two of the most recent fragrances; Muguet Fleurie and Foin Fraichment Coupé.

"The Garden Parasol" by Frederick Carl Frieseke

Muguet, or lily-of-the-valley, is a note that I have to approach carefully. Many years ago a friend put some lily-of-the-valley essence on my skin, and I had the dreaded spike to the brain reaction that many perfumistas know well. I can wear a few of them, and do so with relish, but I do have to be a little bit careful and not just spray a new muguet perfume all over without testing it first. My finger test of Muguet Fleurie went well, so I decided to take the plunge. This fragrance is beautifully composed. The lily-of-the-valley note is very present, however, it does not overwhelm the fragrance at all. It is not sharp, or harsh, like some can be. It has a nice touch of leafy greenery and an accompanying bouquet of supporting notes that make it very summery and beguiling. This is one of those "cotton lawn frock" perfumes that makes me visualize being at a garden party on a great lawn, with a gazebo and croquet. The florals are nicely embedded in a nest of leaves, grass and moss, giving the fragrance a natural, easy elegance. The various Muguet notes have lovely sillage above the skin, as well. If you like a good lily of the valley perfume, definitely try this one.

Perfumer Hugo Lambert, Notes: Green leaves, wild grass, wild muguet, galbanum, angelica, violet leaves, muguet des bois, lily of the valley, oakmoss

"Hay Harvest at Éragny" by Camille Pissarro

I was completely enchanted by Foin Fraichment Coupé the second it hit my skin. The name translates to "freshly cut hay" and this is another kind of summer visualization altogether. I keep getting lost in my wrist and sensing wild herbs and sweet clover being crushed underfoot as I roam a working farm, taking in the scent of the grassy fresh hay. There is a warmth to this fragrance that is surprising in a way, but then I realize that hay is a comforting, homey smell. I keep smelling a touch of something almost medicinal, like a natural unguent that has a healing aroma. This could accompany a summer evening as easily as the daytime, and might almost be better then, as it would recollect the nurturing smells of the day. This has a quiet sillage, and would create a lovely transparent aura.

Perfumer Hugo Lambert, Notes: Angelique, star anise & wild mint, clover, sainfoin, new-mown-hay & clary sage, dry hay, white musk, cockle & ivy

One of the things I liked upon reading the notes lists for both of these was that they took the main focus note and represented it several ways in the perfume, which I think adds a lot of depth and interest. I definitely need to explore the Oriza L. Legrand collection more thoroughly if these are representative of the line. The tradition of fine French perfumery is apparent.

I received my samples courtesy of  Fragrance and Art, where the line is available for 820 to 1190 kr for 100 ml.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Thanks to Polina at Fragrance and Art (Sweden's premiere niche perfumerie), we have a sample set draw for one reader living in the EU, Canada or the USA. Let us know what appeals to you about these, if you have tried any Oriza L. Legrand scents, where you live, and to show your appreciation it would be very nice to also like Fragrance & Art's Facebook page. Draw ends June 13, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

Editor's Note: Curious about the collection? Please read our perfume reviews of Oriza L. Legrand Chypre Mousse (2014) composed by Perfumer Hugo Lambert, CaFleureBon Guest Contributor, Historian, Author and Perfumer Elisabeth de Feydeau  composed Deja Le Printemps, Oeillet Louis XV, Relique d’Amour, and Reve d’Ossian  (2013). Oriza L.Legrand is also now carried in the US at Luckyscent.com. – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief