New Perfume Review: Le Galion Sortilège + Rebirth of a Classic Fragrance House Draw

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Illustration by Louis Ferrant

One of the biggest buzzes when I was at Esxence was the relaunch of a once-popular perfume house, Le Galion. Originally founded in 1930 by Prince Murat, it was sold in 1935 to perfumer Paul Vacher*, already well-recognized for creating Arpège with André Fraysse in 1927. With his direction and perfumery skills, he created the iconic Sortilège, the signature scent of The Stork Club in the 1930s, until  Le Galion fell into decline in the 1980’s, (after the death of M. Vacher in 1975).  Thankfully, about two years ago, Creative Director and new owner Nicolas Chabot resurrected this once great House, and nine of the original 24  perfumes.

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Sortilège Ad by Claude Maurel

I was able to obtain a sample of the reborn classic Sortilège, and it is lovely. I am a little funny about actual vintage perfumes. I like some of them, of course, but either they smell terribly dated or the big-gun floral aldehydes and chypres are just more over the top than my lifestyle. When I apply a fragrance that makes me feel like I should be wearing opera gloves,  I don’t feel comfortable in my skin. I have never smelled vintage Sortilège, but this version hits a really nice spot for me. I gave Sortilège a full wearing on a warm day, when I had to work, so was wearing a basic tee-shirt and cargo pants kind of outfit. What the perfume did for me was make me feel elegant in my own skin, in my own way.

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Painting by Paul Hedley

Opening with a subdued, powdery cloud of flowery aldehydes, I immediately sensed that this perfume was anything but a powerhouse. I was enveloped in a feminine cloud, with a distinctly vintage aura. The floral blend is exquisite and cannot be picked apart. The aldehydes serve to give the bouquet lift and buoyancy, dancing on my skin like a prima ballerina in multi-layered pink chiffon. As I went about my day, I would occasionally huff my wrists or down my shirt, and was happy with my scent every time. Even after a day in an overheated office, I could still smell the beauty of the fragrance on my wrists. There is something especially pleasing about a perfume that is ethereal but still has enough bones to stand up to a tough day. “Sortilège” translates to “sorcery” or casting a spell. This perfume casts a spell of beauty and easy elegance. I'd love to have a bottle.

Notes: lily, lilac, ylang ylang, aldehydes, Egyptian jasmine, mimosa, narcissus, Turkish rose, iris, sandalwood, vetiver, labdanum, musks, amber

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Nicolas Chabot and his assistant Elizabetta at Esxence 2014

I will be looking forward to an opportunity to wear  and review more fragrances in the collection which includes nine perfumes that retain the history of the House but are formulated for modern sensibilities. The Le Galion line is currently available in Europe.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

We have an extra sample of Sortilège to give to one lucky reader in the US. Let us know if you have heard of Le Galion and what appeals to you about this new Sortilège perfume that is available only in Europe. Draw ends May 30, 2014

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

*Note: Paul Vacher was also a perfumer for Dior during the time he owned Le Galion, creating Miss Dior in 1946 and Diorling in 1963.

Editor's Note: Other fragrances in the newly revised line include 222, Eau Noble, Iris, La Rose, Snob, Special for Gentlemen, Tubéreuse and Whip – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

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18 comments

  • I have seen the name while looking for things on ebay 🙂 But I don’t know anything about the house. Yes I’d like to try this because I have liked many vintage re-launches or reformulations. US. ty

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    No way, Sortilege is back?!? I’ve wanted to smell the original ever since I read about the Stork Club! I would absolutely love to try this, thanks for the heads up about Le Galion… that is why I love this site.

  • I love the fact that you called it a reborn classic! Some of the vintages are beautiful, but lack a certain something to make them appealing for the here and now. I have heard just bits and pieces of this house, haven’t sampled so would love the opportunity to try. Great descriptive,” elegant in my own skin in my own way” 😉 perfect as I’m a jeans and t-shirt kind of gal! I am in the US

  • I look forward to trying Le Galion Sortilege anew. Your lovely words about it’s notes and how it smelled on your wrist sound dreamy.

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    Your article is the first time I’ve heard of Le Galion Sortilege – that is one of the reasons I love this site, as I learn something new every time I come here! I would love to sample a new/classic scent of sorcery. I am in the US.

  • I’ve not heard of this but I love the idea of trying a perfume from the past. I often wonder how the old classics really smelled. I understand most things are reformulated nowadays and I do not have any vintages. In in the US.

  • I have read a little bit about this perfume house and am glad they have been relaunched. Sortilege sounds lovely, with its vintage nature (and it’s nice to know that there are 8 others that will be in the current collection). Enjoyed the Paul Hedley painting. I am in the US.

  • I heard of Le Galion and Sortilège years ago, before I really knew anything about fragrance, so have never tried anything from that house. The thought of a fragrance that is both “ethereal and has enough bones to stand up to a tough day” sounds perfect! Thank you for the opportunity to try it!

  • FearsMice says:

    I had heard of Le Galion and Sortilège as a vintage lover’s dream… I love aldehydes, and the fact that “sortilège” means sorcery just adds to the appeal! I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • I have reading about the resurrection of house of galion
    Please enter me in the draw for Sortilege
    I bought something on eBay called Sortilege but it was awful and I hope isn’t related to this one which is the new reformulated pefume

  • I have heard of Le Galion through reading Barbara Herman’s book Scent and Subversion. I was captivated by the hauntingly strange vintage ad of the women with the long flowing black hair in the shape of a harp. What appeals to me most about this new interpretation of Sortilège is how they have kept true to the vintage style and original formula. I’m in the US and thanks for the draw!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I had not yet heard of Le Galion, but would like to try Sortilege.

    “Sortilège, the fragrance that makes women faithful. To their fragrance” advertisement from 1965

    Enough said.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    it is good that Sortilege may have been updated but it still retains classic aura..Sortilege has undoubtedly been the signature fragrance of the brand.. i have been familiar with the brand for quite a long time and have tried to obtain sortilege for quite a while but so far no success..i do own vintage snob though which is close to Patou’s Joy. i am in the US

  • I have heard of Le Galion, but not really anything specific. The cloud-like aura of vintage femininity appeals to me regarding Sortilege. Thanks for the opportunity! I’m in the U.S.

  • juicejones says:

    My first signature fragrance, a present for my 16th birthday. I loved it, and am so thrilled it is back! This is beyond exciting!

  • I remember buying some Le Galion perfume in the early 1970’s and have been searching for some ever since. I didn’t realise ‘Le Galion’ was the make I thought it was the actual name of the fragrance. Now I am left wondering which one I should purchase!

  • Joyce Taylor says:

    I was fortunate to win an 18 guinea bottleo of Le Galion Sortilege back in about 1958. I thought it was rhe most wonderful perfume in the world and the presentation box and the actual perfume were stunning.

  • Myrna De Anda says:

    Where in the United States can I get these perfumes. I use to wear Sortilege and Arpege.