New Perfume Review: Juliette Has A Gun Gentlewoman by Romano Ricci+ Juliette’s Le Smoking Draw

romano ricci juliette has a gun perfumes cafleurebon

Romano Ricci and The Juliette Has a Gun Perfume Line (images courtesy of Romano Ricci)

When Romano Ricci created his own perfume line in 2006, his vision was clear. He wanted to be different and he wanted to create perfume on his own terms. Perfume was in his blood but he did not want to venture down the inherited career path his family name had laid out for him. Romano’s grandmother, Nina Ricci, was the name behind one of the 20th century’s most successful perfumes, the delightful L’Air du Temps. Rebellious Romano had no interest in being delightful; for years he sought a future as far away from perfume as possible. Today he is more embracing of his lineage saying, “The first 10 years of your life shape the one that you become.” After dabbling in a career as a racing car driver, he came back to his roots and to create his own perfume brand, Juliette Has A Gun. Inspired by Shakespeare’s romantic tragedy, Romeo and Juliette, each perfume represents a different facet of Juliette’s personality. From the femme fatale that is Lady Vengeance to the coy Miss Charming, his perfumes arm a modern Juliette with weapons of mass seduction. When he launched his first fragrances, Romano had no idea whether his concept would succeed. “Niche perfumery at that time was very traditional, and the idea was to put a rock in the pond and make a splash. I didn’t have any idea it was going to be such a success.”

jeanloup sieff nude  ysl and sonia sieff for juliette has a gun

JeanLoup Sieff photo of Yves St. Laurent, 1971 © and Sonia Sieff nude photo for Gentlewoman, 2015 ©

Speaking with Romano at the Australian launch of his latest perfume, Gentlewoman, I sensed his perfumes were also intended to be a tribute to the mystery of women and the Juliette he sees in the women in his life. It is a collection of perfumes made about and more importantly for women. He freely admits that if he had his way, he would only sell his perfumes to women. In her latest incarnation, Juliette is a modern woman, unconstrained by stereotypes. Playing with the codes of femininity and masculinity, she is full of contradictions. Romano describes her as a “velvet hand in an iron glove.” For the perfume’s campaign image, the model is dressed in a tuxedo. Her boyish stare is unfearful and challenging. She is the neo-Dandy. Perhaps it is no coincidence that Romano worked with photographer Sonia Sieff, whose father, Jeanloup Sieff famously photographed Yves Saint Laurent’s nude portrait, the French couturier that reinvented women’s fashion with Le Smoking tuxedo suit in 1966.

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Juliette Has A Gun  "Le Smoking" neo dandy ad campaign images  for Gentlewoman courtesy of Romano Ricci by Photographer Sonia Sieff

Gentlewoman has the same attitude of Yves Saint Laurent’s liberated Rive Gauche women. For the fragrance, Romano takes the classic Eau de Cologne concept and he embellishes it with some modern enhancements and a novel twist. I love Eau de Cologne and I wear everything from cost-effective 4711 to more luxurious Chanel Eau de Cologne. For me, the beauty of it lies in its simplicity. For Gentlewoman, Romano respects that simplicity. Sharp citrus notes mingle with bitter-green petitgrain and neroli oil. Further into the heart comes orange blossom absolute. Gentlewoman’s lavender note is clean and with the modern effect of Ambroxan, the result smells like a freshly pressed white cotton shirt. A touch of coumarin adds warmth to the generous layering of musk, namely Ambrettolide and one of Firmenich’s cuddlier trademarked molecules, Muscenone.

romano ricci juliette has a gun  sonia sieff photographer gentlewoman review

Romano Ricci behind the camera and  Gentlewoman Ad image by Sonia Sieff ©

While Gentlewoman does smell classic it contradicts itself by smelling entirely modern. My favourite part of Gentlewoman is the novel almond note that courses through the heart notes of the perfume. This bitter anisic cloud floats effortlessly alongside the Eau de Cologne theme and finally evaporates into the folds of Gentlewoman’s soft animalic notes. It is a well-orchestrated reinvention of a centuries-old theme.

juliette has a gun gentlewoman perfume

Juliette Has a Gun New packaging

Not only has Romano been working on this revamp of Eau de Cologne, fans of the brand are also being treated to a revamp of the brand’s packaging. Buyers now receive their Juliette Has A Gun perfume inside a modern foam square and the outer sleeve features a more pared back logo design. Even though Romano’s intended audience is women, and he gave me a cheeky scowl when I mentioned the word unisex, Gentlewoman has plenty to offer men like myself who are fans of a classic cologne fragrance. But this is to be expected. What man or woman would not fall prey to a Gentlewoman?

Disclosure – Bottle provided by Agence de Parfum, distributor of Juliette Has A Gun in Australia and New Zealand.

Clayton Ilolahia Guest Contributor and author of perfume blog, What Men Should Smell Like

 EIC Michelyn Camen has interviewed Romano Ricci four times for various publications, including ÇaFleureBon. You can read her 2012 interview here.

Thanks to Romano Ricci of Juliette Has A Gun we have a worldwide draw for  a 50ml bottle of Gentlewoman (will not be in the USA until May 2015). To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Clayton’s review of Gentlewoman, your favourite Juliette Has a Gun perfume and where you live. Which woman wearing Le Smoking is most memorable (from movies or historical); leave that in the comment as well. Draw closes March 21, 2015

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS optionor your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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38 comments

  • As a fan of gender-bendy things, I appreciate the remarks about Gentlewoman’s simplicity and modernness. My fave Juliet is Anyway. As far as Le Smoking, it is tough to beat Marlene Dietrich (though she was pre-YSL). Post YSL, I am voting for Kate Moss. I am a US reader. Many thanks!

  • I love the notes of pettigrain and lavender. Sometimes there is a need for a simple cologne and this sounds like it could fit the bill. My favorite of the line so far is Miss Charming. I remember being impressed in my youth by the sophistication of Bianca Jagger who wore the Le Smoking jacket look very well! I am in the US.

  • I did not realize Romano is Nina Ricci’s grandson. Interesting to learn that. I always love a well-done cologne and every perfume line seems to need one in the lineup. I’m looking forward to trying this one. My favorite of the line is Lady Vengeance. I love dark and sultry roses.

    I’m in Canada. Thanks for the draw.

  • I love the new packaging! Great article. I love the description of her as, “a velvet hand in an iron glove.” Perfect.
    I would have to say MIDNIGHT OUD is the fave so far.
    As for Le Smoking, I concur with sadie who mentioned, Marlene Dietrich.
    I’m in the USA. Thank you for the article, and the draw.

  • Like Clayton, I love Eau de Cologne. I was happy to read that he enjoys its many forms from 4711 to Chanel. I do the same. My current fragrant obsession is finding an Eau de Cologne for the coming summer.

    My favorite Juliette has a Gun perfume is Lady Vengeance. I live in the US.

    Catherine Deneuve is one of my favorite film stars and made Le Smoking truly memorable for YSL.

  • Interesting review. “freshly pressed white cotton shirt” and “bitter anisic cloud” sounds very interesting. My favorite Juliette Has a Gun perfume is Citizen Queen.
    I saw few photos of Kim Basinger in tuxedo and she looks stunning in it)
    I’m in Russia. Thanks!

  • We normally don’t associate attitude with specific scents, but JHAG certainly has it, as described in this review and illustrated by the models in the pressed, white shirts. Love it!

    My favorite JHAG is probably Lady Vengeance.

    I live in the U.S.

  • I love it that Romano has created a range of perfume especially for women. For women who are strong, sexy, complicated. My favourite perfume from The Juliette has a Gun line is Mad Madame. Australia

  • Clayton was right in the fact that the beautyof gentlewoman lies in its simplicity!
    my favourite Juliette perfume is Moon Dance and coming right behind is Anyway.. Catherine Deneuve was tré chic styled in Le Smoking, like a silhouette.

  • “While Gentlewoman does smell classic it contradicts itself by smelling entirely modern.” This is wonderfully put, and describes some of my favorite perfumes. My favorite Juliette Has A Gun perfume is Midnight Oud (“a velvet hand in an iron glove” might describe that one, too), and I’m in the US. I don’t think many women have worn a tuxedo better than Marlene Dietrich.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    I agree with Clayton’s observation that Romano tries to understand the different characters women portray and then tries to capture them in perfumes. its inspiring Romano didn’t bank the family name but instead carved out his own path. my favorite Juliette Has A Gun creation is Midnight Oud. thanks so much for the generous Gentlewoman draw. I am in the US

  • I’m enjoying reading all these comments from fans of Juliette Has A Gun. I too like that Romano creates fragrances about interesting women… I hope the winner enjoys this new fragrance as much as I do.

  • Lovely review, very interesting. I had learned a lot of new things. I had never tried any of Juliette Has a Gun perfume, but sounds great.
    Claudia Schieffer is very pretty in Le smoking.
    I live in Europe.

  • I love the comparison made between Rive Gauche and Gentlewoman! It definitely caught my attention and made me more curious to try out this fragrance. I’m a huge fan of cologne and have yet to find my perfect one. Maybe it will be Gentle Women? 🙂 My favorite JHAG is Midnight Oud followed quickly by Citizen Queen, both were loves at first sniff for me. I huge fan of Ramano Ricci’s fragrances!

    Also I live in the US.

  • As a cologne fan I’m excited about this one. I have not expericened a Juliette Has a Gun fragrance. It’s nice to know someone else enjoys the range of colognes from 4711 on up as I do. For Le Smoking, how about a young Greta Garbo? u.s.a.

  • I really like the description “It is a well-orchestrated reinvention of a centuries-old theme”. The idea that it mixes classic with modern is very appealing. I have never tired any Juliette Has a Gun fragrances. This one sounds like a great place to start. Marlene Dietrich would be my vote for most memorable Le Smoking. I live in the US

  • I enjoyed this review; I perked up immediately when I saw it because I love almond notes in perfume. I’ve only tried two JHaG fragrances – Lady Vengeance and Midnight Oud. LV is a good no-brainer kinda smell, but I really adore Midnight Oud. For the Le Smoking question – Marlene Dietrich comes to mind for the classic example, but nowadays Janelle Monae wears tuxes well. 🙂 I’m in the US; thanks for the draw!

  • You had me at clean, modern, and almond! The only two JHAG fragrances I’ve tried so far are Miss Charming and Lady Vengeance, and I enjoyed them both. I’m in the US. Thanks for the drawing!

  • Interesting read, would love the modern citrus, neroli, and orange blossom. I’d have to choose Kate Moss. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Freeestyler says:

    For Gentlewoman, Romano respects that simplicity I like that. Thank you for the wonderful review. Oil Fiction is my favourite JHaG fragrance. I live in Germany

  • I love citrus in springtime. With soft animalic notes this could be special. Le Smoking on Christina Hendriks. 🙂 I have only smelled Citizen Queen, so it has to be my favorite. In U.S.

  • Lynnsylvaine says:

    Terrific review Clayton. How charming is Romano Ricci
    I love wearing my husbands Eau Sauvage so o think I would like this
    Le smoking ? Catherine deneuve of course
    Usa

  • i love mad madame and not a perfume from Juliette has a Gun
    I did not know that Romano is related to Nina Ricci
    Also read Michelyn interview what a handsome man and I loved his answers
    USA
    Le smoking is Marlene Dietrich

  • I can’t wait to try Gentlewoman! Classic citrus cologne with a modern twist, perfect for spring and summer! I love both Lady Vengeance amd Midnight Oud. I’ve been trying to come up with something more original, but Le Smoking that comes to mind first is always Marlene Dietrich. I’m in the US.

  • Very good review. “This bitter anisic cloud…” sounds excellent! Currently my favorite is Midnight Oud.
    I live in the US.
    Thanks for the generous draw!

  • Interesting review. I ve just learnt that perfumer of Juliette has a gun is Nina Ricci s grandson. I tried some of his creations at the airports at duty free and I loved Lady Vengeance. I am curious about almond and ambroxan notes. Thanks for this competition, I am in EU.

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    I enjoyed Clayton’s review of Gentlewoman and his description of how the fragrance “takes the classic Eau de Cologne concept and he embellishes it with some modern enhancements and a novel twist”. I live in the US and have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a Juliette Has a Gun perfume. Catherine Deneuve, wearing Le Smoking, is most memorable.

  • I, along with many others it seems, did not know that Romano is related to Nina Ricci. What a fascinating story and a very enjoyable review.I have never owned a Juliette has a Gun perfume and this extra twist sounds so appealing- stepping away from a classic theme and giving it an edge. I am in the US.

  • Velvet and in an iron glove. What a beautiful way of describing a strong yet beautiful and elegant modern woman. I love Lady Vengeance (also a great film by Park Chan Wook!) I love in New York

  • Wow a perfumer and a race car driver, what a life! 🙂 I haven’t tried any JHAG scents yet, but this one sounds interesting. Typically I’m not a huge almond or anise fan, but I’m looking for the exception! Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • I like Clayton’s description of a this fragrance being modern and yet “full of contradictions.” I live in the United States and really enjoy the complexity of “Mad Madame” JHAG fragrances have amazing longevity on me.

    Mentioned this in another comment, but Marlene Dietrich has such a memorable screen presence. I believe she was the first woman to dress in a tuxedo on screen. Check out her performance (and that tailoring) in Morocco. Hard to believe that it is an early 30’s film as her look is completely modern.

  • I honestly did not know his grandmother was Nina Ricci! My mother absolutely loves her perfumes. I also liked how his perfumes relate to different personalities of Juliette, I thought that was really unique and interesting. I’ve never tried any perfumes from this house, but that might change in the near future!Thanks for the draw and I’m in Canada.

  • I’ve read up on this house and they all sound great! I love the note breakdowns and I might buy my sister one of your fragrances for her birthday. Gentlewoman sounds like a classic perfume, which I enjoy. I will definitely have to pick up a sample at least! Lady Vengeance just by reading about it, would be my fav! My vote also goes to Marlene Dietrich, she’s beautiful.

    Canada

  • I do love the description of Gentlewoman being classic but modern. My favorite JHAG is Calamity J. I am in the US. Thanks!

  • As lots of people, I had no idea he was related to the legendary Nina Ricci! As for Juliette Has A Gun, I’ve never tried any of their scents, but I do love the look of the bottles. They seem very feminine and I appreciate the work Romano has done.

    Gentlewoman makes me think of a elegant lady, bursting with joy and confidence. Someone who’s ready to take charge and knows she will have all eyes on her. Truly a great sight.

    Catherine Deneuve would have to be my choice for most memorable woman.

    I am a Canadian reader and I wish you the best of luck on the fragrance and the house as a whole. Keep up the outstanding work!