New Perfume Review: Huitieme Art AQAYSOS (Pierre Guillaume) 2017 + The Scent of Refracted Light Draw

Prism, photo by Todd Liotine©

What is the smell of refracted light?

Pierre Guillaume’s Aqaysos, the newest addition in the Huitieme Art collection, is inspired by the faceted brilliance of crystal. Combining this lucent mineral with the light-absorbing opacity of woods is a particularly "Guillaumian" contradiction. Who else but Pierre Guillaume would enhance the quick fire bounce of crystal by juxtaposing it against a porous, retentive material like wood? This is not the watercolor translucence of Jean-Claude Ellena, but transparency done Guillaume-style, witty and paradoxical.

Come to my Window, photo by Michael Taggart Photography©

Pierre Guillaume’s Huitieme Art has a different aesthetic from his Parfumerie Generale and Phaedon lines. Huitieme Art is stripped down perfumery, where two or three accords or raw materials are focused and intensified , extracted via a technology Guillaume calls “phyto-perfumery.” To further enhance the focus of the central notes, Huitieme Art perfumes do away with the traditional fragrance structure of top, middle and base notes.

Light painting by Stephen Knapp

 Aqaysos opens with sharp angles: light citric zing, part grapefruit, part herbal, the tiniest bit peachy. The soapy tang of coriander is evident, and peppery spice quickly comes forward. As Aqaysos warms on the skin, the citrus note reveals different aspects: the underripe aroma of citron one moment; the dusty floweriness of lemon verbena the next; then, the oily, bitterness of bergamot thereafter.

Metallic fashion, photo by Jamie Nelson ©

Aqaysos’ initial effect is of a stripped-down Mediterranean fougere, modernized barbershop cologne with an Italian bent. But, as the bitter herb-citrus notes intensify, a secondary fruity aspect joins them, and Aqaysos leaves the gentleman’s club as the fragrance heads towards fruity-musky. Soft, furry white musk blends with the sudsiness of coriander. Interestingly, the cassis note smells more like redcurrant than the cordial-sweet black variety; tart, berryish.

Rain Branch, photo by Gordana Adamovic Mladenovic ©

Within about 10 minutes, the coriander has moved up in the fragrance and the pepper note comes into focus. I am reminded of the unconventional beauty of the original Coriandre by Jean Couturier, a favorite of mine from the 1970s. But now woods emerge, adding dimension to the fruit and herbal accords. There is a damp, porous wood quality – it’s almost like smelling rain on a fallen tree branch.

Photo by Miki Asai©

Aqaysos does not have a dry-down. Rather, it continues to glint its citrus-herb-woods facets for several hours. With its sunny, keen-edged fruitiness, spicy herbals and wet woods, it is a fragrance for days when little contradictions can put a smile on your face.

Notes: limette, bergamot, cassis, baies de sancho (which evoke pepper and citron), coriander, cacao beans, woods, white musks, animalic musk. Sillage modest; moderate longevity.

Disclaimer: perfume sample provided by Huitieme Arts Perfumes – many thanks. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Editor

 

Aqaysos (in the new  shadow flacon a blend of colored glass and ceramic)

Thanks to the generosity of Pierre Guillaume Huitieme Arts, we have a 50 ml bottle of Aqaysos  shown above for 1 registered reader in the U.S., Canada or Europe. To be eligible please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Aqaysos based on Lauryn’s review, where you live and if you have a favorite fragrance signed by Pierre Guillaume . Draw closes 3/19/2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS FEED…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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25 comments

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    This intrigues me with its reference to an old favorite of mine, Coriandre. I haven’t had opportunity to sample any of Mr. Guillaume’s perfumes but would love to. I am in the US.

  • Aqaysos sounds like the modern man… A modernized barbershop cologne being a gentleman’s club fragrance transforms towards fruity-musk in a continues citrus-herb-woods faceted dry down. This is what I get from the review. Being created in the expression of the brilliance of crystal. Interesting! THANK YOU for offering this 50 ml bottle from Pierre Guillaume. I do live in the US.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    I can’t decide what sounds better: the smell of the rain on a tree branch or a cassis note? Both combined together must be lovely and unforgettable.
    I love Jardins de Kerylos by PG. Thank you for the chance of winning Aqaysos. I live in Europe.

  • The perfume sounds lovely. Thanks for the great review. I’ve not smelled any of Pierre Guillaume fragrances.

    Hello from Canada.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I love the second stage of the fragrance, musk with redcurrant. White musk is strong love of mine, I love anything that is softly musky. I’m in the US, and I have never tried a Pierre Guillaume fragrance.

  • fazalcheema says:

    This seems like one of the most interesting releases from Pierre Guillaume ever. The bottle, the notes created using futuristic methods, and various categories combined into one perfume such as citrusy and fougere elements. Moreover, it reminds one of a great classic in Coriandre. It is also a perfume without drydown and constantly evolves. Thanks a lot for the generous draw. My favorite from Pierre Guillaume is Grisens. I am in the US.

  • I actually find the crystal inspiration tempting, you tangibly descibe that picture. My PG favourite is HA Monsieur, great wood ‘n’ smoke. – To be sent to Germany, in case.

  • I liked the conclusion phrase “With its sunny, keen-edged fruitiness, spicy herbals and wet woods, it is a fragrance for days when little contradictions can put a smile on your face.”, it’s a nice end to the review.
    I haven’t tried any perfume created by Pierre; I have Tabac Rouge from Phaedon but he didn’t make it and don’t know the rest.
    I live in EU.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Amazing! Aqaysos does not have a dry-down. Rather, it continues to glint its citrus-herb-woods facets for several hours. With its sunny, keen-edged fruitiness, spicy herbals and wet woods, it is a fragrance for days when little contradictions can put a smile on your face. My favorite is Pierre Guillaume L`Oiseau de Nuit.
    Thanks to the generosity of Pierre Guillaume Huitieme Arts and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate int he draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • What I enjoyed about AQAYSOS is that it is crystal wood herbal fruit and will put a smile on your face. I really like many Guillaume work coze musc Maori and bois Naufrage. I am not familiar with the huitieme Art collection so this would be great to win. I live in the EU

  • This reads like the modern springtime fragrance I’ve been waiting for. My favorite PG remains L`Eau Guerriere. US

  • I love the image of smelling rain on a tree branch! Pierre Guillaime appears to be both a talented and very prolific perfumer. My favorite perfume, not just by him, but my favorte perfume period is L’Oiseau de Nuit. I am in the USA. Thank you for the draw.

  • This fragrance sounds very interesting from the review. I would like to try it. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • I was intrigued by the statement that Aqaysos doesn’t have a dry down. The descriptive paragraph above the rain branch photo sounds very inviting. My favorite creation of Mr. Guilliaume would have to be Entre Ciel et Mer. 🙂 usa

  • As a hiker I have always liked the smell of rain on a fallen tree branch or oakmoss.
    Its a cleansing smell and clams my senses.

    The bottle …dark like night..i like the design.

    I would love to win this. I am in USA,WA

  • Can you believe this? I have never heard of Pierre Guillaume house and the house has more than 70 perfumes. This one looks very bright and refreshing to me with Noire bottle, that is interesting. Thank for the draw. Live in the USA.

  • The description of the sharp angles got me, I would really love to smell it.

    Reader from the EU.

    Thank you! Wish you all the best!

  • The description “glint its citrus-herb-woods facets for several hours” has be super intrigued! I do not have a favourite fragrance by Pierre yet, looking forward to trying one out soon as the concept of no top/middle/base notes is really interesting. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Musonda Mwewa says:

    I really want to smell the, “damp porous woods” accord. “It’s almost like smelling rain of a tree branch””. Those 2 descriptions were my most appealing parts of Lauryn’s Aqaysos review.

    It would be great to see how initial fruity citric sharp angled zing accords transition to the soothing sounding “wet” accords.

    Great review.

    I live in Connecticut.

    Unfortunately never owned a Pierre Guillaume. signed fragrance.

    Thanks.

  • gregorysop says:

    The smell of damp wood reminds me of being in a forest after the rain. I appreciate the opportunity to win this interesting scent including a new note to me, baies de sancho
    From USA.

  • cardinalmind says:

    What appeals to me is a chance to smell something different from my current perfume staples. Ms. Beer makes me even more curious when she says it has no drydown, and the citrus-herbs-woods last long for hours. How did they do that? I only know citrus scents as the ephemeral ones, only to be enjoyed for minutes or an hour.

    From USA. Haven’t tried any Pierre Guillaume fragrance! Thanks and have a nice day!

  • doveskylark says:

    The notes of citron, coriander, and bergamot are some of my favorites. I used to carry a crystal in my pocket. I liked the way it reflected light.
    I’ve never tried a Pierre Guillaume fragrance, but I checked the website and his Monsieur fragrance sounds like something I’d like to try.
    I live in the USA.

  • What appeals to me is the opportunity to experience something different like Aqaysos is because it has no dry-down and as Lauryn so well describes:
    `There is a damp, porous wood quality – it’s almost like smelling rain on a fallen tree branch…
    Aqaysos does not have a dry-down. Rather, it continues to glint its citrus-herb-woods facets for several hours. With its sunny, keen-edged fruitiness, spicy herbals and wet woods, it is a fragrance for days when little contradictions can put a smile on your face.`
    Unfortunately, I still have no experience of Pierre Guillaume’s perfume creations.
    I am a registered reader living in EU. Thank you so much both for the lovely as always review and for the very generous draw!

  • This would be a wonderful summer scent. It sounds so refreshing! What really sells me, though, is the cacao note. It’s one of my favourites and sounds like the perfect gourmand note to balance the citruses. I live in Canada, thanks.