New Perfume Review: Galop d’Hermès (Christine Nagel) +  Hermès Forever Dance of Equine Rose Draw

 

hermes-galop-fragrance-campaign  

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson Hermès fragrance campaign

“On a bien raison de dire qu’il n’y a rien de plus beau que frégate à la voile, cheval au galop et femme qui danse.” 

“It is true to say there is nothing more beautiful than a ship in full sail, a galloping horse and a woman dancing”. -From Père Goriot by Honoré de Balzac

Christine Nagel  

Galop d’Hermès represents the quietly delivered moment when a set of exquisitely hand-crafted reins, supple and well-worn, pass from the iconic Provençal hands of master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena to the elegant and relatively unbroken (in Hermès terms, but certainly not in perfumery ones…) hands of Italian/Swiss perfumer Christine Nagel. The reins must of course be braided Hermès leather, fashioned and stitched with Moulin thread coated in beeswax, made in the saddlery workshops at 24 Faubourg Saint Honoré.  Christine Nagel must now mold these heritage pieces of leather to her own hands and ride gently but confidently forth. 

 

cuir d'ange hermes

Hermessence Cuir d'Ange by TSF

If Galop d’Hermès is the start of this transition and handover we have nothing to fear. I have been writing on Hermès for a while, I have loved the House since I was in my teens and wearing Bel Ami, Rocabar and Equipage.  I have a passion for the Jardin series and reviewed the ethereal aquatic jasmine musings of Le Jardin de Monsieur Li for both my own Silver Fox blog and for Çafleurebon, the same for the creamy, leather winged weirdness of Cuir d’Ange, an unsettling but dazzling portrait of leather, inspired by the writings of Provencal scribe Jean Giono, a favourite writer of Jean- Claude Ellena. Recently I reviewed the diptych of eaux de colognes, Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate and Eau de Néroli Dorée launched this spring; the neroli created by Jean-Claude Ellena and the rhubarb signed off by Christine Nagel.  

Galop d’Hermès montage

Galop d’Hermès flacon Montage by TSF

Some critics and yakkity-yak bloggers dismissed them as preparatory sketches and in Nagel’s case a very safe dip in the Hermès olfactory pool. They were colognes people!!… and fitted perfectly into the eaux de colognes series that is essentially an exploratory assembly of olfactory themes, preoccupations and glassy motifs that rise and fall throughout Jean-Claude Ellena’s Hermès work like so many melodies. Christine’s luminous fruit entry added more reference material but also proved her work had a different weight and light to that of her mentor. Jean-Claude’s saffron-drenched neroli scent is a hymn to the heat of the Provençal sun sweeping across his childhood but also a reflection of his memories of repetitive training as a young perfumer, distilling orange blossom. Christine’s rhubarb was a delicious and juicy cologne with a marvellously illuminated fruit note. I loved it. It echoed some of her best work at Jo Malone and elsewhere but also created a taste of embonpoint olfactive arrangement in a relatively simple and elegant formulation that demonstrated her ease of comfort working alongside Jean-Claude Ellena, the man who after all, designated her as his successor. 

galop-dhermes-jackie-nickerson-hermes-fragrance-campaign

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson for Hermès

Galop d’Hermès is exquisite perfume; the Turkish rose is of the highest quality and almost falls like moist petals off wrist and throat. It is gorgeously sublimated by the eccentric blush of quince that floods the top of the scent creating an ecstatic duet with the rose. It is quite an opening. Most purported quince scents smell cheap or overtly of apple, mixed with some generic white tuberose/magnolia effect but this is different. Quinces have a very unique smell, especially when poached, the flesh turns a beautiful coral blush coral tone and tastes like cross between apple, pear and melon flavoured lightly with nutty rosewater.  Such an odd fruit. I don’t know how Christine has perfected her quince accord but this is one of the few times I have actually smelled that odd quincy, granular quality and it just worships the rose. It complements too the supple handling of the cuir velours doblis, the particular butter-soft suede Christine Nagel picked from the Hermès leather library to inspire her dancing, entwined equine rose. This is not a bestial scent or an essay in animalic excess, but rather a portrait of fluidity, dynamics and grace, the line of the female form, the tensioned lines of horses. The technique and study of leather and hide moving, in life and as transfigured object.  

galop-dhermes-jackie-nickerson

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson for Hermès

‘…and when faced with an obstacle, clearing, every time, with the power of a girl ruled by fire, with the intrepid stride of a modern woman, unique and fiorecly free, the link between mind and matter, flowe and skin.’ (taken from the Hermès press presentation)

A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson3

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson for Hermès

I am a huge fan of the potent Hermès feminine leather, Kelly Calèche, particularly the extrait. It is a very different creature to Galop d’Hermès, with an acerbic almost urinous Barenia calf lather extract stained with mimosa and a heady narcissus that took me some time to acclimatise to. I love the EDP version as well, which has added violet and vanilla. Some days on my skin though the leather note smells oddly scraped and bloody, but it’s a stunning perfume, the embodiment of rummagy vintage leather bags, the detritus and tumble of lipstick and ephemeral essentials.  It is one of Jean-Claude Ellena’s undoubted masterpieces during his tenure chez Hermès, I know others will disagree, but smell it, it’s a little shocking and confrontational, it’s not that easy to define and yet for some reason you know it is unutterably beautiful.

A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson for Hermès

Christine has gone a different way, entwining the doblis suede and rose in a subtle and controlled balletic dance, the leather echoing the equine heritage of this enduring house and the iconic rose too that has been used to glorious effect in many classic Hermès compositions such as Doblis (1955), Rouge D’Hermès (2000), Calèche (1961), Hermessence Rose Ikebana (2004) and Le Jardin sur le Toit (2011). The copper-toned press images, choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj and lensed by Jackie Nickerson of a woman dancing, dressed in a bespoke leather dress on what looks like an equestrian arena are extraordinarily charged and sensual. Her dark messy mane of hair has been caught by the eye of the lens at very specific moments where at first glance it could be either horse or woman.  One of the most beautiful images is of the woman’s bare shin, her foot striking the dry earthen floor; movement captured as if it were fetlock and hoof making vital contact with the ground. You can sense power, refinement and tension coursing through these unique images, from sky down through skin to ground.

cafleurebon A Gallop d Hermès

From A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson for Hermès

The leather note in Galop d’Hermès is as one would expect from a house with such a heritage handling the materials is supple and as malleable as fading roses petals in an olfactory sense. It wears like a second skin, ghostly and personal. The leathers all have different weights and odours due to assorted curing processes. These Hermès leather infused scents have a very particular resonance to them, the textures and individual personalities as it were of the skins seem to haunt the formulae, suggesting the finish and semblance of the perfumes much like the legendary bags. The innovative stirrup-shaped flacon is a thing of great beauty, arriving in a cloth drawstring pouch in box printed in a pattern inspired by Hermès archive stirrup designs.  When you buy your 50ml eau de parfum you can choose which colour of leather tie to take away to loop and fasten to the top of your bottle, another link to the heritage de sellerie for which they are renowned. The bottle feels perfect, it has lovely weight and heft and is refillable from a 200ml you buy when finish your 50ml. Apart from the obvious equestrian associations the flacon is also an echo of an event on the 1st August 1930 in New York when Hermès opened a boutique and over 200 VIPs and journalists were gifted stirrup shaped bottles, very much in keeping with the Deco spirit of the time.  Some of these are in the Hermès Conservation of Creation and used as design source material for Christine’s eau de parfum.

Galop d’Hermès flacon/box montage.

Galop d’Hermès Box and Bottle TSF

I think Galop d’Hermès is a triumph for the house and for Christine Nagel who has officially taken on the role of in-house perfumer since January. Jean-Claude Ellena will remain for now in a quasi-advisory role on scent etc. It makes sense, his impact and legacy looms a little too large for now to be closing the door on him just yet. There are subtle Ellena fingerprints pressed gently into selected surfaces and textured accords of Galop d’Hermès, consciously or not, particularly in the handling of the leather and the way it absorbs the saffron but that outstanding quince note and the handling of the rose into a warm radiant emulsion, that is all Christine Nagel. I fell asleep in Galop.. and woke up, thinking it had faded away,  but it had become so soft, my skin like the doblis suede itself, the scent so delicate and haunting.  I can’t wear it enough right now. It has a certain mystery and compulsion to it, I love the poignancy of roses in scent and Hermès roses have that reserved haute-bourgeois aloofness to them that works so well in this exquisitely honed style of feminine floral. Guys will smell great in it too though, in the right climate, that quince note will come off as semi-cologney and the saffron will feel a little more exotic and oriental in tone.

 

A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson

A Gallop choreographed by Angelin Preljocaj, photographed by Jacki Nickerson

So once again Hermès demonstrate a profound understanding of luxury olfactory market knowledge. I’m slightly biased as I’ve been wearing their fragrances for so long but with each launch they have pursued a single-minded vision of perfumed excellence, creating one of the most enviable and consistently fascinating bodies of work of any House. Despite any worries as to the transition from Ellena to Nagel and any effect this might have on the house style it is still way too early to tell. But Galop d’Hermès is a magnificently written first chapter after the rhubarb prologue and I have nothing but excitement in my bones for what it to come next chez Hermès.

Disclosure: I received my PR bottle of ‘Galop d’Hermès’ from Hermès London. Merci Marie. Ax. 

Guest Contributor, The Silver Fox and Author of The Silver Fox

 Galop d’Hermès is available at Hermes.com 1.6oz/$210 and the 4.2 oz refill is $260

We have a 10 ml decant of Galop d’Hermès for a registered  reader in the USA, Canada or EU. It is from MC’s bottle as she was gifted by a special friend. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about TSF review of Galop d’Hermès, your favorite  Hermès perfume, if you think Christine Nagel is a great choice as in house perfumer and where you live by 9/26/2016.

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25 comments

  • Christine Nagel created some of my favorite fragrances: John Galliano, Une Nuit Magnetique TDC and Mauboussin. I think she is an excellent choice as in house perfumer and I really look forward to try what she is going to create for Hermes. So far, my favorite Hermes is Hiris. I’d love to test Gallop d’Hermes. I live in the EU, thanks for the draw!

  • It is understandable Nagel is introducing her own style but it is also admirable she has incorporated Elena’s DNA in the fragrance because Elena has played a major role in creating Hermes aesthetic in perfumes. TSF’s review makes it seem like Galop has some resemblance to kelly caleche. Nagel is, indeed, a great choice because she has a long track record of creating amazing perfumes such as Theorema. my favorite Hermes is BelAmi. I am in the US.

  • TSF held my interest from beginning to end. He captured me early on with ” ‘there is nothing more beautiful than a ship in full sail, a galloping horse and a woman dancing’ “. I have only tried two Hermes perfumes and neither was for me. One of those was Kelly Calèche, so when TSF said that Christine went a different way, I perked right up. Galop d’Hermès sounds like a perfume I could love and hope it loves me back. I think the bottle is great. Sounds like Christine Nagel and Hermes could make a wonderful fit. USA.

  • This is so beautiful: “There are subtle Ellena fingerprints pressed gently into selected surfaces and textured accords of Galop d’Hermès, consciously or not, particularly in the handling of the leather and the way it absorbs the saffron but that outstanding quince note and the handling of the rose into a warm radiant emulsion, that is all Christine Nagel. I fell asleep in Galop.. and woke up, thinking it had faded away, but it had become so soft, my skin like the doblis suede itself, the scent so delicate and haunting”. I can’t wait to try Galop. Thank you TSF for the review!

    I love many fragrances by Hermes, my most favorite are Ambre Narguile and Eau de Gentiane Blanche. I live in the EU.

  • I liked TSF’s description of the leather note as “ghostly and personal,” and also that striking first photo of the woman in the leather jacket with the wings! So far my fave Hermes id the one my partner wears, Voyage d’Hermes, so good, but I think Christine Nagel’s engagement is going to be great, she’s already done so many interesting perfumes, a lot of them already with cult status. I live in Canada, thanks for the draw!

  • This is a really beautiful and elegant review of what I imagine will be a beautiful, elegant perfume. On paper, the scent really ‘ticks all the boxes’ for me – It’s by Christine Nagel, for Hermes, contains leather and saffron, and the bottle is splendid. I really couldn’t ask for more and can’t wait to try it on skin! I particularly liked TSF’s description of the leather that draws so many Hermes scents together: ‘These Hermès leather infused scents have a very particular resonance to them, the textures and individual personalities as it were of the skins seem to haunt the formulae, suggesting the finish and semblance of the perfumes much like the legendary bags.’

    There’s something about Hermes fragrances that really resonates with me – maybe it’s just a good skin chemistry match, but I love them. Olivia Giacobetti’s Hiris (the one in that stunning cobalt blue bottle) is probably my favorite, but I also love L’Ambre des Merveilles, vintage Equipage (just as captivating on a woman as a man) and the new rhubarb cologne. I guess it’s impossible for me to pick just one. As for Christine Nagel at the helm, she’s already won me over with Rhubarbe Ecarlate, so I’m excited to see where she will take the house next!

    It’s so kind of Michelyn to decant from her own gifted bottle! I’d really love to try this scent and live in the US.

  • As always, fantastic review by The Silver Fox! I love the imagery of rose petals falling off of wrist and throat. I too love Hermès fragrances! Along with Guerlain, they were the first house that I really fell in love with. My favorite is Calèche, but I also have 24 Faubourg and Hard on Dr Monsieur Li. I highly respect Jean-Claude Ellena as a perfumer, but his scents can be a bit hit-or-miss for me, so I am very excited to see what Christine Nagel will bring to the house. I have tried Rhubarbe and it is indeed lovely. Galop d’Hermès sounds like a home run, so I’m sure she’s the right choice! I live in Canada. Thank you so much for this wonderful draw!

  • TSF’s description of leather in fragrance is fascinating. Leather has been a difficult perfume note for me to appreciate. I am beginning to enjoy it.

    It is exciting to read as TSF shares that leather notes in Hermes fragrances have different textures and personalities, much like the different types of leather Hermes uses for bags and saddlery. The leather note in Galop, ghostly and personal, sounds like a perfect fit for a fragrance pairing rose and quince.

    Hermes fragrances so often make me happy, it is hard to choose a favorite. At the moment I most often wear Vanille Galante.

    Christine Nagel is a wonderful choice for in-house perfumer. I recall reading of her dedication as she gradually took on that role. She spent several years working alongside Jean-Claude Ellena and time each week at Hermes headquarters absorbing the world of Hermes beyond fragrance. This was thoughtful preparation for creating new fragrances at Hermes.

    I am in the US. Thank you for the very generous draw. And many thank yous to The Silver Fox and to CaFleureBon for making the world more fragrant and beautiful.

  • This review of galop d’hermes is the best review of any I have read it is pure poetry. The image of the passing of the reins from my beloved Jean Claude Ellena to Christine Nagel and your opening quote was so beautiful I felt a catch in my throat.
    My favorite part is when you address the yaketty yak bloggers who put down the Eaux de Rhubarb which I liked btw and the Eau de neroli with its colognes guys put a smile on my face
    I live in the USA and am a fan of Quite a few including Eau Orange Vert, Hiris Cuir d Ange Kelly caleche extrait and JCE masterpiece Jardins sur la nil. I have smelled the Limited edition of 2004 Doblis and hope Hèrmes reads this to bring it back as it is the best leather fragrance ever created

  • From this review, it sounds as if Christine Nagel is a wonderful addition to this house. “That outstanding quince note and the handling of the rose into a warm radiant emulsion, that is all Christine Nagel.” Plus, leather and rose sounds amazing! Along with the quince, this should be a lovely scent. i live in the USA.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for a fascinating review for the new creation of Christine Nagel. The warm, tender & feminine leather blend with rose and saffron with Quince pinch on top seems wonderful.
    Christine Nagel is Ellena’s apprentice and perfect addition to the Hermes.
    My favorite from Hermes that I enjoying wearing are: Bel Ami, Rocabar, Caleche, Un Jardin En Mediterranee, 24 Faubourg and Terre d’Hermes.
    Thanks for the 10 ml decant of Galop d’Hermes draw. Participating by giving my relative address residing in NY, US.

  • I was especially intereseted in The Silver Fox’s description of the quince note,along with the rose. I would like to try it! I do’t know a lot about Christine Nagel but Hermes has been very careful with their perfume line so I would be surprised if they made a misstep in selecting her. My favorites are Iris ukiyo, Eau de Marveilles, and Jour d’hermes. I am in the USA. Thank you for a marvelous review and the draw.

  • I am very curious about the quince note that was mentioned in the review. I am intrigued to know how it merges with the rose and leather. This review really piqued my curiosity.
    I think Christine Nagel is a good choice to bring interesting notes to Hermes perfume.
    My favorite Hermes is Equipage.
    I live in the USA.

  • Very nice review. This perfume sounds very good. I have never tried any of Hermès perfume, but i would really like to try Galop d’Hermès. I think Christine Nagel is a great choice as in house perfumer. Thanks for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • I like all of the Jardins by Hermes (especially the Nile one) and Galop, while having different notes and being a different type of a fragrance, sounds equally interesting, especially since Christine Nagel is the nose behind it.

    (EU)

  • A beautifully written review, as always!! “… fitted perfectly into the eaux de colognes series that is essentially an exploratory assembly of olfactory themes, preoccupations and glassy motifs that rise and fall throughout Jean-Claude Ellena’s Hermès work like so many melodies.” I think Nagel is a perfect choice to continue the Hermes perfume legacy. There are too many favorites to name, but I especially love Kelly Caleche, Iris Ukiyoe, and Eau des Merveilles. I’m in the USA… Thanks to MC for her generosity!

  • Thank you for such a thorough, informative and yet poetical review! I’m very found of Hermes’ perfumery and a huge fan of their visuals. It’s hard to say which perfume is my favourite, but the Galop’s video took my breath away – a promise of new big perfume love.
    P.S. I live in EU.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    What a great review! “Galop d’Hermès is exquisite perfume; the Turkish rose is of the highest quality and almost falls like moist petals off wrist and throat. It is gorgeously sublimated by the eccentric blush of quince that floods the top of the scent creating an ecstatic duet with the rose. ” A must-try for me.

    My favorite Hermes is Rose Ikebana. I live in the EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Ah, Hermes, one of my favorite brands, always the best quality and the best perfumers. I am very happy that Christine Nagel joins the house and I’m secretly hoping for some new perfume similar to brilliant Madness by Chopard (yes, I know this is not quite Hermes style, but I miss Madness so terribly).

    Gallop sounds great (leather and rose!) and I’d love to try it. Thanks for the great review TSF! I live in the EU.

  • I love the review, it’s so poetic. I think I haven’t tried anything by Christine Nagel, so I’m even more curious about Galop.

    My favorite Hermes is Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, but honestly I don’t know that many Hermes fragrances and I’d love to try more. I am in Europe. Thank you for the draw!

  • Hermes is one of my favourite perfume houses. I love the Jardin-series, Ambre Narguile, and Les Colognes. Galop sounds great, especially the Turkish rose.

    Thanks for the draw!

    I live in the EU

  • Wonderful review! It’s so poetic and very informative! I have many favorites from Hermes: Iris Ukiyoe, Ambre Narguile, Paprika Brasil, and Vanille Galante.
    “Galop d’Hermès is exquisite perfume; the Turkish rose is of the highest quality and almost falls like moist petals off wrist and throat. It is gorgeously sublimated by the eccentric blush of quince that floods the top of the scent creating an ecstatic duet with the rose. ” I cannot wait to try Galop as I know it will be a true beauty! I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Great review: From Ellena fingerprints…to the “suede and rose in a subtle and controlled balletic dance”…this sounds wonderful!!!

    My favorite Hermes fragrance is L’Ambre des Merveilles

    Im positive Christine will do fabulous.

    Im in the USA. Thanks for the draw:)

  • You know, Kelly Caleche EDP may be my favorite Hermes, but my impression of it isn’t as polarizing as TSF described! The bitter grapefruit top note is too pithy, the leather too soft and refined to be animalic. It’s the kind of thing I grab if I need to feel more calm, cool, and collected in the office. So, I’m curious about the “Galop” interpretation of leather! I haven’t tried any of the scents Christine Nagel has created for Hermes, but by this and all the other accounts I’ve seen I feel good about the future of Hermes fragrances. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw.