New Perfume Review: Gabriella Chieffo Acquasala + Riding The New Wave Draw

esxence 2015 milano

Esxence  2015 Photo Michelyn

In my review of The Different Company's I miss Violet,  I noted that leather was a major trend at Esxence 2015; equally in evidence was the resurgence of  aquatics. This much maligned genre is making a come back in the niche/artistic fragrance world.  Back in the 90s perfumes surfed in on a giant calone wave. Who didn’t have a bottle of L'Eau d'Issey or the ubiquitous Cool Water? There’s a sense of refreshed thinking behind the new generation of marine scents, we began to take note, first with Heeley's Sel a Marin (2012).  In 2013, Laboratorio Olfattivo released Salina  and Hermes debuted Jean-Claude Ellena's Hermessence Epice Marine also that same year Bertrand Duchuafour’s incredible 2014 release Copal Azur from Aedes de Venustas followed.   Now,  some of the most buzzed about perfumes at Esxence 2015 used marine notes in new ways, noticeably of course, Croisière Collection from Pierre Guillaume, Neela Vermeire’s Pichola and Acquasala from the Italian House of Gabriella Chieffo.

gabriella chieffo perfumes

Gabriella Chieffo’s line Gabriella Chieffo Profumi launched in 2014 with four perfumes –  Ragù, Lye, Hystera and Camaheu    Signora Chieffo utilises artwork and stories for her perfumes in an  arresting way that references motherhood, cooking and a spiritual connection to her homeland of Southern Italy. Gabriella’s artwork reminds us of Cindy Shermanesque photography and  brings to mind Italian women, strong and passionate archetypes. She craft elaborate stories surrounding the perfumes, which take on an element of fantasy.

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Esxence 2015 Gabriella Chieffo Booth

Gabriella had one of the most alluring stands at Esxence that bloomed with cream coloured origami flowers scented with her perfumes.

gabriella chieffo aqualsala luca maffei

Gabriella Chieffo Aquasala Parfum and Rising Star Perfumer Luca Maffei

As I was working my way around her flowers, I quickly realised that my favourite was Acquasala, a floral marine signed by Luca Maffei,  (the young Italian perfumer who was recently a winner in the Independent Category at the 2015 Art and Olfaction awards).

aquasala gabriella chieffo

Gabriela Slegrova Photogrpaher

 It’s what I would describe as a departure from the aquatics of old as the new wave utilses a more contemporary and sophisticated blend of shades and tones from the niche palette. Acquasala is a perfume of contrast, with salted water washed up against spiced incense and florals. I enjoy it more on each wear.  This fragrance references not only introspective moments of contemplation and growth, but also has a culinary link.  Acquasala is a traditional Southern Italian food made with stale bread, chilli, garlic and egg. If I look at the press notes that accompany the perfume, it’s described as  “a dive into vital liquid, in a non-space where every passion is acquiesced and yields to silence, to peace. An immersion in fluid where everything becomes quiet.”  I don’t always think the marketing stories match the perfume. But in this case I get the drift

 

gabriela segrova photography

Gabriela Slegrova Nymph between waterlilies

Editor in Chief Michelyn Camen had a chance to chat with Luca Maffei about Aquasala and he told her  “When Gabriella told me the idea she had in mind, I was immediately attracted by it because of the culinary inspiration from Salento (her birthpace in the South of Italy) and the idea of introspection. She showed me the image of a mysterious woman walking through gardens and then deciding to go diving into the endless sea, leaving behind her the safety of firm land. So this inspired me to create a new acquatic accord, flowery spicy marine. For this I have used seaweed instead of calone, beautiful neroli from Tunisia, bright elemi and then pungent spices like black pepper, nutmeg and carvi”.

https://fbstatic-a.akamaihd.net/rsrc.php/v2/y4/r/-PAXP-deijE.gifadri le kock gabriela slagova

Model Adri Le Kock Gabriela Slegrova Photography

When I first smelt this perfume at Esxencein Milan, (before I read the perfume’s story), I immediately imagined that I was underwater, floating peacefully. Even though I can’t bear the thought of diving, it made me feel that I was deeply immersed in water with smells of floating debris around me. The artwork further develops this image, reflecting moments of connectedness and protection. An umbilical cord is referenced in the photograph – that magical connector between mother and child in the womb. The water brings to mind the child’s immersion in the womb’s amniotic fluid.

gabriela slagova underwater art

Gabriela Slegrova Photography

On subsequent wears this underwater image still remains, but there is a beguiling contrast with a distinct peppery, spicy opening that seems to intensify over time as the incense washes the scent with its aroma. The spiced element is present in Acquasala from the get go in the form of caraway, elemi, nutmeg and pepper. There is a dose of iris in here too but it’s slight before the marine element is given a lift from the cashmeran, musk and patchouli. The aqua component or kelp as it’s listed in the notes, has a mineral like aspect and it’s slightly salty. But this is not one of those overly saline aquatics by any means.

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Gabriela Slegrova Photography

Acquasala eschews that insouciant salty beach vibe of sunscreen and blue skies that are often present in marine fragrances. It has a cleverness to it. An intellectual marine perfume if you will. I dabbed a little REM (mer spelt backwards in French, meaning sea) to compare, which is a popular marine scent in France from jewellery brand Reminiscence.  From memory I anticipated similarities but there was hardly any cross over at all as the mood of the perfume was so different.  REM really does bring to mind a beach where you’re dabbling your feet in the water, with the smell of sunscreen, salt and hot air all around.  It has a warm quality, a tanned up tone that is quite comforting and smells a lot sweeter. Acquasala perhaps shares more common ground with Copal Azur from Aedes de Venustas with the combination of incense and a watery aspect. However that scent has a greater incense intensity. Acquasala has a much more ethereal otherworldly fluidity. Acquasala is calming, very peaceful and has an introspective nature, with a weightlessness that appeals.  It’s an aquatic scent that doesn’t resort to the ozonic faux beachery trickery of old, it’s forging a different path and it’s rather captivating.

 Sr Contributor, Megan Paki and author of MeganinSainteMaxime

Disclosure: Sample from Gabriella Chieffo at Esxence 2105

Note: The photographer for the Acquasala artwork is Gabriela Slegrova, who lives in Capetown and we are so struck by her underwater photography we used it throughtout the piece. Ms. Slegrova's facebook Page is here.  Gabriella Chieffo's Ragu was a CaFleureBon top 25 fragrance of 2014

gabriella chieffo aquasala perfume

Thanks to Gabriellla Chieffo Profumi we have a draw for a bottle of Acquasala (€160.00) for a Registered ÇaFleureBon reader in the EU, USA or Canada. Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Megan’s review, your thoughts on the new wave of aquatics and where you live.  If you want your comment to count twice please like Gabriella Chieffa Promui Facebook page here. Draw closes 4/23/ 2015

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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39 comments

  • Its funny that many people do not care for aquatics as I find them so easy to wear, most of the time they are fairly subtle. I love that she mentions in the review “that while wearing this the underwater image remains”. I am intrigued by that as most aquatics tend to transport me onto the beach, dunes or a rock formation near the water, but never in the water. I love that aquatics are making a comeback in so many different perfume houses and I am excited to try them. I am in the US and I liked Gabriellas page 🙂

  • I do love aquatics that remind me of the ocean – that slightly salty and mineraly quality. Epices Marine was an interesting aquatic that I quite liked. I would love to smell Acquasala to see what it is in the perfume that reminds you of being underwater.

    It’s funny you mentioned aquatics are coming back in style. I used to hate this genre especially L’eau d’Issey but I was at Sephora just a couple of days ago and decided to try it again. This time I can actually appreciate L’eau d’Issey and even got a glimpse of white floral underneath all that calone. I liked it better than I thought I would.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada.

  • I enjoyed all the underwater imagery and the descriptions of the scent notes (especially of the seaweed/kelp). It’s refreshing to see aquatics and ‘beach’ scents done in a different way and I’d love to try this watery fragrance. I live in the US and also liked the Gabriella Chieffa Promui Facebook page. Thanks for the great draw!

  • Marcopietro says:

    Those descriptions and images are very evocative. I love marine and aquatic fragrances, they are usually associated with fantasies of freedom and boundless horizons, but for me, they are referred to the most intimate feelings. They make me think of a zero gravity and peaceful inaction, as the state of fetal life. The sea as a large placenta. So I agree with the choice of images for Chieffo advertising.
    Thanks for the draw. I’m in EU.

  • Great review! Informative and poetic. I do love aquatic/marine scents so this one will be on my try-list. I had the chance to sample a couple of Gabriella Chieffo’s fragrances (Ragu is great!!), and I’m sure “Acquasala” is not a generic one… “An intellectual marine perfume” made by L. Maffei (the rising star in the world’s perfumery!) just can’t be a common aquatic scent! I’m very curious about his new creation…
    I’m in the EU. Thanks for the draw!

    “Like” – already done for ‘Gabriella Chieffo Profumi’ on Facebook…

  • There is no day would not have entered on this beautiful blog 🙂 As usual, beautiful review! I had to test earlier fragrances. Creations are wonderful! Aquasala probably is also great.Thanks for the draw.
    I’m in EU.

  • An aquatic that contains a spiced incense accord? Color me interested.

    Not only am I delighted by the notion of an aquatic without calone, but I am also delighted to hear it contains nutmeg and pepper notes.

    Thanks to Megan for explaining the perfumer’s reimagining of the meaning of Aquasala. I would not like to try a fragrance that smells of bread and chili and egg.

    I am in the US, and I thank you for the opportunity to get my nose on this one.

  • Wonderful review! I very love aquatics, because I also love the sea and the ocean. I liked Gabriella Chieffa Promui Facebook page.
    Thanks for the chance! I live in Europe.

  • fazalcheema says:

    When I saw that picture which served the inspiration of Aquasala, I could see the wisdom is using seaweed as a note..Megan’s article tells me the new wave of aquatic fragrances focus on salty aspects of water where as original acquatics of the 80s and 90s focused on fresh aspects of water..i also think Bvlgari Aqva is innovative in this regard as that was the first fragrance that incorporated seaweed accord in such a magnificent way..thanks so much for the draw. I am in the US.

    I have also joined Gabriella Chieffo Profumi Facebook community.

  • Not generally a fan of aquatics, but I love the ocean. The thought fof a perfume that evokes being underwater is lovely. I’m in the US.

  • I love the idea of salty notes in this — I think it would work well as a summer fragrance, especially where I live (Florida).

    US Resident. Added the Facebook page, too!

  • I appreciated that Megan differentiated this scent from the other beachy sunscreen aquatics. I find the idea of a floral-spicy aquatic intriguing and I’d love to try some. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • I loved the pictures relating to this review. Simply amazing! I loved the notion of an aquatic being ‘cashmeran with patchouli and musk’ and think it’d be a beautiful warm weather scent. I do like Gabriella Chieffa Promui’s Facebook page now. Am in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • I enjoyed the part where Megan reviews “Acquasala” by Gabriella Chieffo and describes her first impressions on it:
    “When I first smelt this perfume at Esxencein Milan, (before I read the perfume’s story), I immediately imagined that I was underwater, floating peacefully. Even though I can’t bear the thought of diving, it made me feel that I was deeply immersed in water with smells of floating debris around me. The artwork further develops this image, reflecting moments of connectedness and protection. An umbilical cord is referenced in the photograph – that magical connector between mother and child in the womb. The water brings to mind the child’s immersion in the womb’s amniotic fluid.”
    I love the sense of peacefulness that this perfume brings once smelled.
    I am very fond of marine and aquatic fragrances, because I love the sense of freedom that the ocean creates once you see it and I would love to experience this watery perfume as well. I thank you for this lovely review, I really enjoyed the amazing underwater pictures in association with Megan’s thoughts about this new perfume creation.
    I live in EU and I have also liked Gabriella Chieffo Profumi facebook page.

  • The description of Acquasala is mking me want the summer months to arrive quicker. Sunscreen, salty skin and warm humid seaside beaches- this perfume seems to encapsulate the essence of a beach holiday. Carefree and relaxed! Megan’s review is just so amazing- you almost feel the waves foaming at my feet.
    I live in the EU. Thank you for this generous draw.

  • I love the underwater photography which is making me feel like wearing this aquatic/leather scent. It just looks so refreshing and light and lovely. Great bottle too. Just all around perfection. I have a scent on today that has just a hint of acquatic (ironically) which is something I have not worn in a very long time. So it’s really fitting that I am learning about this fragrance today. I’d love to have the opportunity to try this. Thank you. Again, lovely, lovely, lovely!!!

  • I enjoyed finding out what acquasala was in italian cuisine. I love acquatics, the more waves the better. 🙂 US

  • “Acquasala is a perfume of contrast, with salted water washed up against spiced incense and florals.”

    This sounds beautiful! This fragrance seems so peaceful, and that’s is what I enjoy most about it. The bottle design is also outstanding, and a work of art on its own.

    I’m in Canada and thanks!

  • I have always had a fondness for aquatics, even if my wardrobe has been lacking in them lately. I am especially attracted to the “flowery spicy marine” idea. I think this might give an aquatic a deeper, more artistic and creative side, like evoked in Gabriella’s ideas of women jumping and floating around in water. Thank you for this chance. I am in the US. and I have liked the facebook page (Lean Sa)

  • I am not a fan of the aquatics style that is ubiquitous in the men’s perfume counters. So I am happy to see more experimentation being taken in this area. A spicy aquatic is hard for me to imagine, but I’d love to smell it. The chosen photos really give a sense of how the perfume might smell. I am in the USA. Thanks for the draw!

  • Megan described some lovely imagery that Acquasala caused her to have. They add to the interest in this perfume. I was not fond of the old calone heavy marine scents, so I have pretty much avoided the newer ones too. I like that Acquasala contains seaweed/kelp to get the marine feel. But what captured me was “ethereal otherworldly fluidity”. Wow. I’m in the US.

  • Lovely descriptions, especially about the peaceful feeling of being underwater. I love that in real life, love being around water generally, but dislike even tasteful and balanced ‘marine’ scents because calone hates me. So I’m very interested to try a water scent that uses something else to achieve that effect! Also the art is GORGEOUS and amazing and wow.
    Thanks for the review and draw

    USA fb liked

  • This lovely review of Gabriella Chieffo Aquasala has me seriously rethingking my aversion to watery calone fragrances. I am also going to look for Pierre Guillaume’s new collection and Neela (love her) Pichola. “Acquasala eschews that insouciant salty beach vibe of sunscreen and blue skies that are often present in marine fragrances”. SOLD. Where do we get this in the USA. Luca Maffei has quite the buzz lately. Seems very talented

  • Wow, you had me at “salted water washed up against spiced incense and florals” Is there anything more inviting in an aquatic perfume than ocean and floral?
    I am looking forward to the new aquatics to come which seem less about sand and sunscreen and more about salt and flora.
    Great read and the images by Gabriela Slogova are gorgeous, especially the lady in tulle with the jellyfish floating by.

    I am in the USA.

  • silvrolive says:

    I liked the comparison to REM, and it helped clarify what Aquasala and is not. Also, the photos are out of this world! I am in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Wow the thought of floating peacefully underwater is both extremely terrifying, but interesting at the same time. I really like these sort of watery and fresh scents, especially in this season. I’ve stayed away from marine fragrances because they’re all so similar, but this one might change my mind on that!

    Canada and thanks!

  • I like how you called it an intellectual marine perfume. I’m normally not into marine scents but I have to agree that some of the recent ones are catching my eye, or should I say my nose. I’m in the US and thanks for the draw.

  • I love the thought of stories with the perfume. Is it a common thought / desire to just wander off into the sea? I share this… The pictures are stunning! Thanks for the draw,I’m in the US.

  • A seaweed note is a most unique concept, better than any I’ve heard in a long time, and it certainly seems intriguing. The pictures that accompany the review are stunning.

    I’m loving the new aquatic-based trend in perfumery after being turned off that note for a while after a 90s overdose of Cool Water.

    I’m in the USA.

  • I’m very excited about a new kind of aquatics. Calone isn’t my favorite in large doses, but salty seaweed accord sounds fantastic. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • tomate farcie says:

    I like the description of the scent, the salty beach vibe with a cleverness to it. I think this is a perfumer to watch. I’m in the US

  • I enjoyed Megan’s review and think the new wave of aquatics sound much more palatable (with tones and shades of florals and spices) than those of the 90s. I live in the US.
    I Like Gabriella Chieffa Promui Facebook – Cynthia M Richardson

  • Aquatics is never an easy olfactory group for me. Nevertheless this one sounds lovely and different from other aquatics. And there is neroliin there which I’m into a lot lately. I live in EU, Netherlands.

  • Thank you , Megan, for the inspiring article! I love salt in fragrance, but I avoided some of the acquatics due to calone. Usually, I go for some kind of vetiver-salty or patchouli-salty combo (Sel de Vetiver, Mistral Patchouli). I loved it that you compared Acquasala to REM and Copal Azur, because I know them, and I like them a lot! Sel Marine is not my kind of sea scent, but Epice Marine is refined, and cuddly. The new wave is promising!
    I already like the Facebook page of Gabriella Chieffo Profumi.
    Thank you for the great chance! I live in Bulgaria (EU).

  • freeestyler says:

    I am not a fan of the aquatics, but this one looks really interesting. (Most of the new aquatics are much more interesting, with spices etc.) thank you for the wonderful read again. I enjoy the deep descriptions of Megan so much.. Sometimes when I read her reviews I have the feeling I can smell the scent on my own, without even knowing it. I am in Bulgaria

  • I have never been much of a fan of aquatic scents, but recently I have smelled some intriguing fragrances with a “watery” twist, and now I’m definitely interested in trying more… it’s a whole category of unexplored perfume! I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • I’m intrigued by Megan’s lovely imagery! I definitely am interested in this newer, more clever style of aquatic fragrances and would love to try this. Liking Gabriella Chieffa Promui Facebook page now. I’m in the US, thanks!

  • I love aquatic scents, they’re so light and fresh and make me feel so joyful and happy! This one sounds amazing. I’ve gotten to smell a couple new aquatics, and have purchased a few. I like how in-depth the article is. It gives me visions of a relaxing swim during the summer. I’m in Canada and thank you for the draw!