New Perfume Review: Arquiste Parfumeur L’Etrog Acqua – Dawn in Calabria + Treasured Citron Draw

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Arquiste is a perfume line I have always been intrigued with. Developed by Creative Director Carlos Huber, an architect specializing in Historic Preservation, each perfume is created around a particular place and time in history. In 2011, Arquiste L’Etrog was released, a citrus-based Mediterranean chypre meant to evoke a woody cabin inhabited by the citron harvesters in Calabria, created by Rodrigo Flores Roux and Yann Vasnier. Recently, Mr. Huber discovered that Mr. Flores Roux had revamped L’Etrog for his own personal use, wanting less of the warm date accord in L’Etrog and more crispness for a summer scent. L’Etrog Acqua was born, as the fresh morning sun shining on the dewy fruits as the Calabrese harvesters rise to greet the day.

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Rodrigo Flores Roux and Yann Vasnier

Perfumer Yann Vasnier, who co-created the original L’Etrog, had this to say about L’Etrog Acqua: “If l`Etrog was all about medieval Calabria, L`Etrog Acqua adds some coolness to the story, it looks like they have invented air conditioning, ice and alcohol – they are starting the day with some lemoncello on ice `senzo zucchero`!” Rodrigo Flores Roux explains his creation this way: “For me Acqua Etrog is a very personal fragrance, as the original accord, inspired by the structure of L' Etrog but laced with elegant, rich woods, was a private concoction I would liberally wear during my weekends in Fire Island, last summer. A lot of positive response, added to the fact that I was stopped several times walking down the boardwalks of The Pines made me realize that something great was happening here. Juicy etrog lemon and a chic chypre back that harks back to the grand "Eaux fraiches" of the 70's which were the first fragrances I ever wore…. what's not to like?”

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Carlos Huber at Esxence, the Scent of Excellence

When I first smelled L’Etrog Acqua at Esxence, it made me bounce up and down on the balls of my feet, and excited my nose immediately. I have been anxious to really wear it and write about it ever since. Once I received my sample, I wore it to work with no preliminary testing, and not only enjoyed it, but had an interesting experience with it. Now I am wearing it again, and am wondering if I will have that same evocative reaction.

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"Still Life with Bowl of Citrons" by Giovanni Garzoni

The perfume opens with the bright lemony sent of the prized etrog, or citron. The citron is supported by a blend of other citrus fruits, and a soft leafy note adds interest and keeps the scent from straying into sweetness. And, here it comes, the same aroma that touched me the first time.  When I press my nose to my wrist, I am smelling the skin of someone I loved. This is a deeply emotional reaction, pulled from who-knows-where. I don’t know where, because I also don’t know who. At some time in this life, or a past one, I inhaled this fragrance, and although it pulls hard at my heart, I cannot put a face to the memory.

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Needless to say, I adore this perfume. Aside from the sense-memory, it has so many components that are fail-proof for me.  I love the herbal petitgrain, all the lively citruses, and the still lemony dry woods that close the perfume out. The slightly masculine crispness is exceptional, and L’Etrog Acqua will work well for any gender and any lover of a truly citrusy fragrance. The longevity is good, too; I could still smell it in the morning after an evening application.

Note: Myrtle leaf, Calabrese Cedrat, sicilian lemon, Italian mandarin, petigrain citronnier, bergamot, labdanum, cedar wood, and vetiver.

My sample was graciously provided by Arquiste Parfumeur. L'Etrog Acqua is available at Arquiste.com, Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary, Barneys NY, and select stockists worldwide. $190 for 100 ml.

Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Thanks to our friends at Arquiste Parfumeur, we have a press sample (about 7 mls) to give to one US reader. In the comments, let us know what appeals to you about L’Etrog Acqua, which is your favorite Arquiste perfume.  Draw ends June 27, 2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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33 comments

  • Julian Jones says:

    I love everything about Arquiste fragrances: the history, the notes, and the dream of Carlos Huber. I haven’t experienced L’etrog Aqua, but by reading this description, I KNOW I will love it!

  • wow.

    this may be the most visually stunning article i have seen. 😉

    the etrog is, of course mystical in the history of the fruit itself, and then there are these boys. well, i suppose if one must fan and crush, then bring this fruit and these boys to my heart and you can keep the dates.

    i’ve never had the chance of making an Arquiste’s acquaintance; then again- they look like the kind of boys you are satiated to simply sit near and smell (of course, at some point, unless they are curators of, or highly accomplished perfumers- freaks them out.)

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Oh lemon. I love anything lemon… just made some lemon shortbread cookies this week in fact. I’d love to smell this, especially as I’ve never smelled anything from Arquiste. Thank you very much, I’m in the US.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    the perfumers have such an enviable skill, the ability to modify formula to suit personal taste :)…this must be a fine creation as Monsieur Flores created it for himself..mu favorite Arquiste fragrance is Anima Dulcis..i am in the US

  • Kim Morgan says:

    Anything citrus works for me, and, since I live in Florida, it’s perfect all year ’round. I wonder if it would induce a similar reaction in me!

  • I have not tried any Arquiste fragrances yet. I am very interested in L’Etrog Acqua, but would really love a sample for my daughter who is looking for her perfect citrus scent.

  • What a fascinating review, Tama 😉 Flor y Canto is my favorite Arquiste, Although I could quickly fall for a breakfast consisting of Lemoncello on Ice! I think it’s a fabulous concept to have a seasonal twin, with a twist 😉 I am in the US! Oh yes, I did enjoy the Visuals as well..

  • Jennifer Witt says:

    I don’t have a favorite Arquiste fragrance – what intruiges me about L’Etrog Acqua is the Myrtle note. I live in the US.

  • Valentine girl says:

    Oh my…the image evoked by those Calabrese citron harvesters with air conditioning, ice & alcohol has me dying to smell Etrog Acqua. I once purchased a Buddha’s hand citron fruit and eventually turned it into liqueur. However, before it went into the bottle, the fragrance of the fruit permeated my kitchen with bright uplifting citrus notes.
    I love the thought of perfume capturing a moment in time and history, and although I have not tried any other perfumes in the Arquiste line, besides Etrog Acqua, I think I would probably enjoy Anima Dulcis & Aleksandr. US resident.

  • “Lemony dry woods” sound amazing 🙂 I have not tried any Arquiste perfumes yet, but I have heard many good things! I am in the US, thank you!

  • What a wonderful review, Tama!
    You make this scent sound so alive, with an amazing personality all its own.
    All the notes sound great to me–citrus, herbal, woods–yep, I love them all.
    I don’t have a favorite Arquiste, but I am hoping to soon.
    I am in the U.S. Thanks for the drawing.

  • “Lemony dry woods” sounds like a good place to spend the summer. Fleur de Louis is a beautiful scent by Arquiste.

    I live in the U.S. Thanks for the draw!

  • Your description intrigues me because I am working on a citrus scent to wear in the the summer humid temps of the East coast when I go on a visit there at the end of July. If I win the sample I might not bother to make my own! It would also be the first Arquiste scent I’ve tried.
    In the US. Thanks!

  • FearsMice says:

    I haven’t smelled anything from Arquiste yet, but if L’Etrog Acqua evokes lemoncello on ice for Yann Vasnier, then I want to try it! I’m in the US; thanks for the draw.

  • Tama’s mystery scent memory and the association Rodrigo Flores Roux makes with the “grand eaux fraiches of the 70s” intrigues me, makes me wonder whether I, as a child of the seventies, might experience something similar. My favorite Arquiste fragrance is Infanta en Flor, but I adore Flor y Canto as well, and and dying to try the others.

  • I was immediately taken in by the smell of L’Etrog at BNY and it was my first Arquiste. Now with your lovely write up I’m headed for my fifth Arquiste.

  • I love the original L’Etrog, so am curious about this one. Favorite Arquiste is Anima Dulcis. Thank you for the draw!

  • Tama, you had me at “I am smelling the skin of someone I loved”.
    I have not tried any Arquiste scents, but I would love to smell this!
    I live in the US. Thanks for the draw and your enticing review!

  • ringthing says:

    Oh, this sounds gorgeous! I am on a citrus kick right now and would love to smell this. I have only sampled Anima Dulcis and it’s lovely. Thanks for the review and draw.

  • I have not yet tried an Arquiste to have a favorite. I wear citrus all summer, I’d like to win this one. Thanks 🙂

  • What appeals to me the most about Letrog Acqua is its seasonal adequacy. I am always looking forward to fragrances with citrus in the top and cedar at the base. If I had to pick a favorite Arquiste, it would have to be Flor y Canto. I’m in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • My favorite would be Flor y Canto. The lemon and leafy notes in L’Etrog Acqua sound really nice.

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Wow! What a review, what a description! Everything sounds really good, the citron plus the leafy note sounds perfect for summer, i really love Arquiste and have three of them as part of my collection and they are some of my favorites: Alexandr, Boutonnière No7 and Anima Dulcis. Thanks for the draw.I live in the US.

  • I have not smelled any Arquiste, however I have smelled fragrances created by Rodrigo and created by Yann. So yeah, I’d love to win this collaboration. US

  • All of Arquiste perfumes are very unique smelling. I find them all fascinating. My favorite thus far is Anima Dulcis. I would love to try this new scent!. I’m in the US!

  • Citrus and wood, I love them both! And that painting of the lemons and limes makes me think I can smell it; very good visual! I like Infanta y flor (sorry for spelling mistakes, that’s from memory). The scents from the line that I’ve tried all seem to have high quality ingredients. I’m in the US.

  • I don’t live in the US anymore, but I wanted to let you know how intriguing this scent sounds ….. I love the idea of a scent a perfumer made for himself, wish there were more of them! And a scent that smells like that Mannerist painting is very exciting! Thanks for the stimulating review!

  • US
    The scent of real etrog is one of the most beautiful and deeply evocative fragrances I have ever experienced. The way it permeates its surroundings, what it smells like just under a foot away from the bumpy skin…for me the main draw of L’Etrog is etrog! Which is quite hard to bottle.
    Anima Dulcis is my favorite so far.
    Thank you for the review and draw!

  • leathermountain says:

    You had me at limoncello. I don’t know this line at all. I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    Early Morning, October 1175, Calabria, Italy… Take me away. What a wonderful citrus-woodsy summer fragrance for both my husband and me!

  • My favorite Arquiste is L’Etrog, and learning that there is a fresh, crisp version of it is intriguing.

  • Tama’s description sounds amazing! I love Citron.
    My fave Arquiste scent is Anima Dulcis. Thanks for the draw!