Arquiste is a perfume line I have always been intrigued with. Developed by Creative Director Carlos Huber, an architect specializing in Historic Preservation, each perfume is created around a particular place and time in history. In 2011, Arquiste L’Etrog was released, a citrus-based Mediterranean chypre meant to evoke a woody cabin inhabited by the citron harvesters in Calabria, created by Rodrigo Flores Roux and Yann Vasnier. Recently, Mr. Huber discovered that Mr. Flores Roux had revamped L’Etrog for his own personal use, wanting less of the warm date accord in L’Etrog and more crispness for a summer scent. L’Etrog Acqua was born, as the fresh morning sun shining on the dewy fruits as the Calabrese harvesters rise to greet the day.
Rodrigo Flores Roux and Yann Vasnier
Perfumer Yann Vasnier, who co-created the original L’Etrog, had this to say about L’Etrog Acqua: “If l`Etrog was all about medieval Calabria, L`Etrog Acqua adds some coolness to the story, it looks like they have invented air conditioning, ice and alcohol – they are starting the day with some lemoncello on ice `senzo zucchero`!” Rodrigo Flores Roux explains his creation this way: “For me Acqua Etrog is a very personal fragrance, as the original accord, inspired by the structure of L' Etrog but laced with elegant, rich woods, was a private concoction I would liberally wear during my weekends in Fire Island, last summer. A lot of positive response, added to the fact that I was stopped several times walking down the boardwalks of The Pines made me realize that something great was happening here. Juicy etrog lemon and a chic chypre back that harks back to the grand "Eaux fraiches" of the 70's which were the first fragrances I ever wore…. what's not to like?”
Carlos Huber at Esxence, the Scent of Excellence
When I first smelled L’Etrog Acqua at Esxence, it made me bounce up and down on the balls of my feet, and excited my nose immediately. I have been anxious to really wear it and write about it ever since. Once I received my sample, I wore it to work with no preliminary testing, and not only enjoyed it, but had an interesting experience with it. Now I am wearing it again, and am wondering if I will have that same evocative reaction.
"Still Life with Bowl of Citrons" by Giovanni Garzoni
The perfume opens with the bright lemony sent of the prized etrog, or citron. The citron is supported by a blend of other citrus fruits, and a soft leafy note adds interest and keeps the scent from straying into sweetness. And, here it comes, the same aroma that touched me the first time. When I press my nose to my wrist, I am smelling the skin of someone I loved. This is a deeply emotional reaction, pulled from who-knows-where. I don’t know where, because I also don’t know who. At some time in this life, or a past one, I inhaled this fragrance, and although it pulls hard at my heart, I cannot put a face to the memory.
Needless to say, I adore this perfume. Aside from the sense-memory, it has so many components that are fail-proof for me. I love the herbal petitgrain, all the lively citruses, and the still lemony dry woods that close the perfume out. The slightly masculine crispness is exceptional, and L’Etrog Acqua will work well for any gender and any lover of a truly citrusy fragrance. The longevity is good, too; I could still smell it in the morning after an evening application.
Note: Myrtle leaf, Calabrese Cedrat, sicilian lemon, Italian mandarin, petigrain citronnier, bergamot, labdanum, cedar wood, and vetiver.
My sample was graciously provided by Arquiste Parfumeur. L'Etrog Acqua is available at Arquiste.com, Twisted Lily Fragrance Boutique and Apothecary, Barneys NY, and select stockists worldwide. $190 for 100 ml.
Tama Blough, Managing Editor
Thanks to our friends at Arquiste Parfumeur, we have a press sample (about 7 mls) to give to one US reader. In the comments, let us know what appeals to you about L’Etrog Acqua, which is your favorite Arquiste perfume. Draw ends June 27, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.