New Perfume Review: Arquiste Nanban (Rodrigo Flores-Roux) + Sailing to Perfection Draw

carlos huber  rodrigo flores roux

Carlos Huber and Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Creative Director Carlos Huber of Arquiste Parfumeur  has once again enlisted friend and perfume partner, Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux for the new House’s new fragrance Nanban. The name is a Sino-Japanese word (南蛮, “southern barbarian”) originally refers to foreigners arriving to Japan from the south seas and  later became a known as a style of art that Carlos Huber describes Nanban’s origin story in this way:

Hasekura Tsunenga and the san juan bautista

Hasekura Tsunenga sailed through Acapulco and The San Juan Bautitsta (Claude Dereut) 1615

“I was traveling to Japan for the first time in March 2014 – a country that had fascinated me in all the aspects of its culture and that’s history intrigued me. By chance, I found out about Hasekura Tsunenaga, the Japanese ambassador, and his journey to Mexico and Europe, the very one that inspired this fragrance. From my own studies of Mexican history, I knew of the famous commercial route from the Philippines to Mexico and then to Spain. One day, I stumbled upon the story of a singular trip that carried the first official embassy of Japanese noblemen to Europe, stopping in Mexico. Wherever they went, they tried securing commercial agreements in order to import goods to Japan. What luck that when I arrived in Tokyo, the National Museum was celebrating the 400 year commemoration of the journey, exhibiting Hasekura Tsunenaga’s original portrait.

nanban screen

Nanban Screen -Wikipedia

They also displayed Japanese screens painted in Nanban style, meaning ‘Western or European” style, since it derived from the foreign traders’ influence in Nagasaki in the early 17th century. I was fascinated to discover a story that connected Mexico to Japan, and provided me a way to tell a Japanese story, from the outside, as a foreigner, like the original Nanban”.

nanban  perfume spices

Arquiste Nanban Tableau

This is a deeply personal back-story for both perfumer and Creative Director, who were both born in Mexico City. Perhaps it is this connection that contributes to an outstanding perfume that is rich, complex, daring and absolutely unforgettable.

A Japanese Nanban  nagasaki

Portugese carrak in Nagasaki Japan (Nanban), Kano Naizen 1616

 Imagine a life at sea.  Not one in our age, where you can lie pampered on several decks, or underneath a billowing white sail while sipping white wine.  Instead, do this:  imagine a galleon, from long ago, rocking back and forth on unchartered waters.  In its deep hold in the belly of the ship there are  treasures from three continents deep.   There are enormous barrels of black tea and orange saffron lurch against hemp bags filled with ripe coffee beans.   The aromas are enormously rich, so much so that even the walls of the ship are saturated with them, the hull acting as a reflecting mirror and overtaking your  senses.

japanese osmanthus painting

Japanese Osmanthus and Utagawa Kunisada (Toyokuni III), Japan, 1786-1865

You might expect that notes of black pepper and saffron at the top, would overwhelm or sharp but instead all the nose-wrinkling spice has been shaved down to an almost suede-like texture, and stretched out into a gliding sheen.  I found myself inhaling as deeply as I could.  Nanban is exhilarating and intoxicating, both tenacious and subtle, a difficult  trick to pull off in an Oriental scent. There is a marvelous osmanthus note pervading Nanban that holds its own with the more muscular saffron, coffee, black tea and leather that arises like the warm wind that carries the galleon from storm to shore.

nanban arquiste perfumer 2015

What intrigues me the most about Arquiste Nanban is its perfect orchestration – even if you’ve never worn perfume in your life, you will instantly be able to smell how all the notes and accords sing together in harmony. There are no hitches from top to heart to base, and no single note dominates. I am particularly impressed by the unexpected  combination osmanthus and coffee  that strike a perfect balance (such an unexpected combination!), and how the entire composition can carry off an almost incense-like feel while retaining an inner softness and sweetness. This perfume sings.  It shines on the skin with a clarity and depth I have yet to smell in any other scent I have written about this year. Nanban is everything a perfume should be. Intoxicating and unique,  Nanban is a scent that should be explored as much as worn, just as the mariners on that galleon explored continents far beyond their own.  In an already wondrously crowded field, Nanban has made my personal list for Best of 2015.

Nanban has above average longevity, one spray lasted an entire day.  On my skin, Nanban went from early morning  shower, an hour long workout and then on into the next morning, where it was faint, yes, but still quite present.  I seriously doubt I’ve come across another perfume this year that was this tenacious – it’s as if it were built upon an enormous granite throne

Notes: Malabar black pepper, Persian saffron, black tea accord, Chinese osmanthus, coffee absolute, Spanish leather, myrrh, frankincense, styrax, sandalwood, copaiba balsam, cade

Pam Barr, Sr. Contributor

Editor’s Note: Architect’s Club, composed by Yann Vansier was a ÇaFleureBon 2014 Best of Scent. Master Perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux was our Best Perfumer of the Year in 2012

15 ml nanban perfume arquiste

Thanks to Carlos Huber, we have a draw of a 15 ml press pump for a registered reader worldwide. To be eligible please leave a comment with why you want to win Nanban, where you live and your favorite Arquiste Perfume. Draw closes September 13, 2015.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize wil be just spilled perfume

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50 comments

  • A life at sea and you have me hooked!Lots of wonderful words about this perfume and I’m in to win. My past life as an ancient trader must have involved long sea journeys, moving those spices and rare fragrant oils and the Tea…one would have needed to have this fragrance as a companion. For those reasons I’d love to try this.It wouldn’t be a simple try- that sounds too lame.It would have to become a relationship of sorts and then we’d see where it went. I have not had the pleasure to try the Arquiste line. I live in New Zealand.

  • I would love to try this one, I’m curious to smell how the osmanthus fares with all the spices and resins. My favourites among the Arquiste perfumes are Anima Dulcis and Aleksandr. I live in London, UK. Thanks for the chance!

  • I would like to win Nanban because I love the story that comes with the perfume. Arquiste has a story for every perfume and it gives the scent a magic touch.

    My favorite Arquiste Perfume is Canto Y Flor, a great combo between Tuberose and Fragipani and a tint of Marigold.

    I am registered reader from the EU.

    Thank you very much! Wish you all the best!

  • My goodness, what an amazing review! The idea of having a scent based on the goods traded and the relationships they would have with one another is fascinating… something of a melting pot, where unexpected notes find their way around each other and work together.

    Love coffee and leather together, but the osmanthus was a surprise! US resident — thank you for this poetic review!

  • Enjoyed the review! I would love to try Nanban because I adore myrrh, osmanthus and coffee notes.
    My favorite is Anima Dulcis. Thank you!
    USA

  • Pam, I love your reviews so much! You weave a spell with your words that seems to transport me into the story of a perfume. I would love to try Nanban because of descriptions like the spicy opening being shaved down to a gliding sheen, the seamless orchestration of notes that make the perfume sing, the juxtaposition of coffee and osmanthus, the depth and clarity on skin. Irresistible. I’m in the US, my favorite Arquiste so far is Anima Dulcis, thanks for the fabulous review and generous opportunity!

  • This terrific review, in combination with the very descriptive listed notes of Nanban, is so internationalist in spirit. I can;t wait to try this. It will be my first Arquiste fragrance, so I do not yet have a favorite. The fact that it is Pam’s favorite this year is quite a recommendation!

    I live in the USA.

  • I’ve not had the opportunity to try an Arquiste perfume before. I’d like to try this one in particular because leather, pepper and incense is right where I am with favorite notes right now.
    U.S.

  • Beautiful review! I am hopelessly attracted by the charm of sea travel, exotic places, legends and stories of pirates, adventurers, etc. A fragrance that I love most of all is Eau du Navigateur de L’Artisan that contains many notes near the fragrance presented today: coffee, spices, precious substances carried by sea along the routes of trade with distant countries. So I could even fall in love with this scent.
    My favorite Arquiste perfume is Aleksandr.
    Thanks for the draw!
    I live in Italy.

  • Coffee with Osmanthus sounds astounding! Has this ever been done before? My favorite of the Arquiste line is Architect’s Club, but Anima Dulcis is a close second. I live in the US.

  • I want to try this because of this phrase, “…spice has been shaved down to an almost suede-like texture…”. USA

  • Osmanthus and coffee is a combination I want to experience and the fact that it is an intoxicating and unique perfume that “sings” as Pam refers in her lovely review comments, this is the reason I am entering this draw ☺
    Unfortunately, I never had the chance to experience a perfume from this House. I am a registered reader from EU. Thank you for this lovely review and draw.

  • Very nice review, dreamy and evocative yet precise in its description of the juice! The Mexican-Japanese connection sounds intriguing. There are plenty other reasons to try this: I love osmanthus and coffee yet have never smelled it in combination, I’d like a subtle perfume with good longevity which is balanced in its notes and if it’s one of Pam Barr’s 2015 favourites I’m sure Nanban is a beautiful perfume. I live in the EU and have tried none of the Arquiste line yet.

  • Like Carlos, I am also intrigued by Japan and it is one of the first countries I want to visit as part of my world travel plan…from what I know about Japan, they don’t like strong perfumes yet Carlos has gone for notes in Nanban that could not be more rebellious. I wonder how this perfume pays tribute to Japan and the west at the same time.

    I have two perfumes from the brand which are Infanta en Flor and Anima Dulcis but my favorite in Anima Dulcis though Infanta en Flor is the one that can be worn year around. I am in the US

  • Claire spriggy says:

    I long to smell this! I love the sound of these notes, particularly coffee and the idea that none over powers the other. Tell me that it sings off my skin and I’m sold. I adore that rare sensation when the notes harmonise that well. My fave arquiste is Architects Club, the vanilla in that is to die for. Carlos is pretty fit too 😉 I’m in the Uk and my fingers are crossed.

  • Marry me Carlos….ha ha, I know your taken but Hell.

    Handsome man, well traveled and creates a fragrance like this…what’s not to love?

    I’ve read about this up and coming fragrance. Now I t’s here. I am thrilled to try Nanban. The spices and the harmony of these scents in this fragrance have me giddy. Quite interesting the story behind the scent. I can quite clearly picture these ships transporting the luxuries with the fragrances infusing wooden walls. Ahhhhhh.

    I have enjoyed quite a few fragrances in his line but one a can’t live without and gives me such an uplifting mood is L’Etrog Acqua. Now I’m ready for the other side of the spectrum. In the USA. Thanks a million.

  • As an anthropologist, I love hearing about the historical and cultural inspirations for the Arquiste fragrances (how can you *not* love a perfume that comes with a bibliography?!) – and this one is no exception. I can’t quite imagine the coffee-osmanthus combination, but I think the blend of saffron and tea sounds delightful. I haven’t had the chance to sample any other Arquiste scents yet, but the The Architects Club sounds divine (and I’m intrigued by the Basque setting of Fleur de Louis since I’ve spent quite a bit of time in that region). I’m in the US. Thanks for the opportunity to enter this draw!

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I absolutely love many of Arquiste’s scents. On my last trip to Twisted Lily, I had a quick sniff of Nanban and appreciated the subtle but palpable spiciness. I had to leave quickly and the test strip got tossed with several others; never had the chance to smell it develop and now that I see there is osmanthus in it, I’d love the chance to smell it again as I love that flower.

    My favorite Arquiste is either Boutonniere #7 or the indolic Infanta en flor.

    I’d love to enter the draw–I’m in the US. Thanks for the opportunity.

  • Such an interesting combination of notes. Coffee, tea and osmanthus – this one sounds like it’s worth smelling just to see how these notes would coalesce.

    Unfortunately Arquiste is not a line I’ve tried. They do seem like they have a really interesting selection of perfumes. I’m especially curious about the Boutonniere no. 7.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada.

  • What a wonderful draw! I haven’t smelled a fragrance with gourmand notes in a while as it’s not what I crave in summer, but the coffee and saffron sound wonderful for the upcoming autumn (and I’m a huge osmanthus fan!). Thank you for the lovely review, this is now definitely on my list of things to try this fall. USA

  • Hands down the most exciting review I’ve read in ages. I’ve become a little blasé, I read a review and it just doesn’t hit the sweet spot. This howvever ticked every box: osmanthus, coffee, myrrh (yessss!) and longevity. I will find a way to try this. Thanks for raising me out of myperfume torpour. I’ve not tried many Arquistes, maybe only Architects Club. I’m in Australia.

  • Really liked this review and the storyline. It felt like I was on another time on that galleon headed for Japan as a stowaway. Like most of the commenters, the combination of osmathus and coffee is intriguing. I think it’s great when someone writes straight out that a fragrance is perfect for them. My favorite Arquiste is LEtrog Aqua which I think Mr Roux also made. It’s great for summer and Namban sounds just awesome for fall
    I live in Toronto
    Thanks Pam, CaFleureBon and Carlos Huber for the opportunity

  • I grew up in an area rich in Mexican culture and travelled there a lot in my youth, and I love all things Japanese so I’m really anxious to sample Nanban. Osmanthus, coffee, and spices is a combination I haven’t run across and I’m looking forward to trying. I’m in the U.S. and my favorite Arquiste is Aleksandr. Thank you!

  • The review’s description of all the lovely heavier notes as smooth and balanced, with osmanthus that holds its own, is irresistible. I’m in the U.S., and my favorite from Arquiste is Anima Dulcis.

  • Those notes sound really great! Persian saffron, black tea accord, coffee absolute, Spanish leather, myrrh… who could resist?
    And because I like all the Arquiste’s perfume, I’d love to sample this one as well. My big favorite of this collection is “Anima Dulcis”.

    I’m in the EU.

    Thanks for the nice informative review and the draw!

  • Jack Sullivan says:

    I want Nanban because the notes (saffron, pepper, black tea to name a few) have my name written all over it!
    I live in Montpellier, France, and my favorite Arquiste so far is Anima Dulcis.

  • I was always interested of the Japanese culture, especially the world of the samurais. Nanban is sounds fabulous from the review, so I would very like to win that perfume. I’m a registered reader. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • I’m a sucker for orientals with longevity and I love osmanthus in perfume. I’d be interested to smell it in conjunction with coffee and saffron. I have sampled Anima Dulcis from Arquiste but nothing else so I guess that’s my favorite, but I bet Nanban would push it aside if I win the draw! I’m in the USA. Thanks!

  • “Nanban is everything a perfume should be. Intoxicating and unique”–how can I not want to win a sample? I’m not familiar with any Arquiste perfumes … yet! I’m in USA.

  • When I first started the review, I was preparing for something “Japanese.” But this story — and scent — went in a completely unexpected direction, and isn’t that one of the deepest pleasures when you’re enjoying a perfume? Having lived in Spain, I love saffron, but don’t have much experience with it as a note in a perfume. For that, and about a hundred other reasons, I’d love to try this scent. I’ve never tried any other Arquiste perfumes, at least not yet. I’m in the U.S.

  • Am not that fond of overpowering Osmanthus scents, but a well blended perfume with so many of my favorite resins sounds very intriguing.
    My favourite Arquiste perfume is the white flower bomb , Flor y Canto. I live in Singapore

  • Wow. The way Pam describes this scent is just amazing, makes me want to run right out and buy it.
    I would love to win because the notes sound like something that would be magical on my skin. I live in the U.S. & my favorite Arquiste is Anima Dulcis.
    Thank you for the draw!!

  • I would even consider buying this blind cause it sounds so amazing and I love Carlos’ scents especially Anima Dulcis. I would so love to win this! I live in the UAE. Where we really should have Arquiste but, we don’t 🙁

  • I have never had the pleasure of sampling any of the Arquiste line 🙁 The notes in Nanban are EXACTLY what I love and so perfect in fall: Black tea….frankincense….sandalwood…coffee. Yum! I live in the US. Thank you!

  • Coffee and osmanthus sound amazing together! I have not tried any perfumes from Arquiste yet but I have only heard good things. I live in the US, thank you!

  • The list of notes really does sound like an old time galleon, loaded with trade goods! I have sampled several from this line and the quality of ingredients is so evident. My two favorites are Fleur de Louis and Infanta en Flor. Thanks for the great story about the perfumes inception and inspiration. USA.

  • I’m attracted to Nanban for sentimental reasons: I spent a number of years in Japan (as a foreigner, of course) and was lucky enough to have a huge osmanthus growing right outside my window when I lived there. I haven’t tried any of the Arquiste line yet. I live in the US.

  • Nanban sounds like a dream of a perfume! It has almost every ingredient that I love: coffee, leather, myrrh, frankincense, sandalwood. It got me drooling. Never tried anything from the house Arquiste, but if the others sound as good as Nanban, I want to test the whole line as soon as possible!

    I am from EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • I have never tried an Arquiste perfume, but I surely would like to change that! What especially got me warm for trying this particular Arquiste is the description of “its perfect orchestration”. Next to that the use of tea and coffee together sounds intriguing. I’m in EU. Thanks for this lovely draw!

  • It is interesting how the idea for Nanban fragrance came from the historical facts about the commercial route and Japanese ambassador. I’m sure it was a challenge to capture the entire story in a fragrance.
    Pam’s story is very picturesque. It guides us to imagine the scents and colors on a ship full of spices, tea, and other cargo, later included in the perfume. This is an introduction to the beauty of the perfume, its wondrous ingredients, and “perfect orchestration”, as Pam says. Arquiste perfumes are very nice, especially Anima Dulcis and The Architects Club and Alexandr. I think I would love Nanban, too. I am in the EU, Croatia. Thank you.

  • I love the black pepper mixed with the black tea opening. It sounds very interesting and I would really like to get my nose on this scent. I have never tried anything from this house, but I might in the future!

    I am in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • I simply love black pepper and black tea. Aleksandr is my favourite Arquiste so far. I live in EU, Bulgaria

  • This sounds amazing. So many notes I love (black pepper, saffron, coffee, myrrh…), and I’m desperately looking for a perfume to add to my collection with a wonderful saffron note. I don’t have a favorite from Arquiste because I have never tried them. I live in Arizona, USA.

  • First of all, I think the look of the bottle is beautiful. As others have mentioned, I love the pairing of black pepper and black tea. I’m just really intrigued by Nanban! I haven’t smelled anything from Arquiste yet. I’m a Canadian reader.

  • Anima Dulcis and The Architects Club are both favorites already–I’m excited to try anything new from Arquiste! Especially Nanban, which has “muscular saffron, coffee, black tea and leather” and “is a scent that should be explored as much as worn, just as the mariners on that galleon explored continents far beyond their own. ”
    !!!
    I’m so on board already, can’t wait to try it!

    Thank you for the awesome review and draw
    USA

  • I would like to smell this perfume because all the notes are so appealing to me, specially the myrrh, sandalwood, franlincense, leather , pepper, well, alll the notes! and as the review says no one is above the rest and it has so much longevity….. I just know Anima Dulcis from this brand which I love, if Nanban is so good as this one, it is a must try!
    I’m in the EU, thanks for the review and the draw.

  • I am most curious about unusual combinations in perfumes. That’s why I would like to try the osmanthus-coffee duetto in Nanban. I have never tried anything from Arquiste Perfume.
    I am in Bulgaria (EU). Thank you for the draw!

  • The combination of notes in this one really catches my attention. I enjoy peppery scents, so I think I might like it. I also enjoy coffee in fragrances, so I’m wondering how much it influences the scent. I haven’t put my nose on any Arquiste scents yet, but I do like the sound of some of them.

    Canada

  • I’m always excited to try perfumes with a saffron note (it’s one of my favorites and still somewhat obscure), and I’m also partial to leather scents. I haven’t tried any Arquiste creations yet, but I’ve read/heard a lot about the brand.
    I live in Canada, thanks for the draw!

  • I love the way it sounds, the notes and accords singing together in harmony. I would like to experience Nanban singing on my skin. I have not tried arquiste yet but am looking forward to it. I’m in the US, thanks!