New Perfume Review: Apoteker Tepe The Peradam + A Study in Introspection

2the perdam  apoteker tepe

Apoteker is a small artisanal perfume company based in NY. There credo is that fragrance and objects “…are resonant– made with intention, artistry, and irreverence to re-enchant a world where too many things are merely ‘things’. Meaning arises from interactions– details, moments, and objects that help weave the web of life and memory. These become our touchstones and talismans, the keys to our experiences. They stop being merely ‘things’ and become part of us. Fragrance is inevitably bound up in this same process”

 Wet, rainy streets and gloomy days are when  I need a scent touchstone and Apoteker Tepe’s The Peradam   is my current choice for those moments.   The Peradam, as it turns out, is a type of hard, dense crystal found in France, a kind of curved stone with an air-like light refraction index that makes it extremely difficult to find unless you happen to be looking for it.  But the catch is that only people who are looking for it REALLY, REALLY INTENTLY will find it. The Peradam crystal is their olfactory symbol for people who are craving only the rarest of ingredients in their perfumes – in this case, supercritical CO2 extractions of jasmine grandiflorum, Madonna lily, a healthy dollop of real orris butter, and genuine Mysore sandalwood.

Central park rainy sadness

Central Park photogrpaher unknown

The product of all this supercritical this-and-that is a very dry, herbal, and damp perfume that is pretty close to huffing a sidewalk from about three inches away.  The orris butter is huge in this scent, and the jasmine kind of hollows it out, and provides some light, airy definition.  The sandalwood feels like driftwood here – extremely austere, bone-dry and not at all sweet.  In short, The Peradam is perfect for interior moments where you don’t necessarily want a big, booming floral or hot-cha-cha spiciness in what you’re wearing.  Sometimes all you want from the world is a couple city blocks of wet concrete and your memories and a quiet place to cry.  And even though I’m an iris and orris-loving, violet huffing, petrichor and peonies kind of gal, The Peradam makes a definite, unique impression that is quite memorable.  The downside is that it’s incredibly dry and minimal, and fairly linear as well.

But that orris butter note is a stunner – it cuts through the fog of your personal inner space and settles you right down.   It’s almost like Apoteker Tepe had me in mind when they made this – the sillage is extremely quiet and close to the skin, and it lasts for maybe four hours at best on me.

 Paris street sadness

Photo:Sarah Moon photoicon.com

But the lack of presence in The Peradam isn’t a bad thing at all; in fact, it is exactly what you want from this kind of scent. A fragrance that to wear when you are not lonely but alone.   Sometimes a great perfume is not about broadcasting itself to everyone around you, maybe for us more fragile people, we’re looking for a perfume that will give us our own space back from time to time and just sit with us and not demand anything.  After all, the actual Peradam stone hides itself in plain sight according to the people who’ve seen it up close, waiting until that magic moment when it’s ready to reveal its location.  So wear Apoteker Tepe’s The Peradam on those days when your romantic fantasy world needs to take a breather and you need some “me” time instead.   This perfume will keep you in fine company until you’re ready for the sound of those huge power chords booming out of that killer chorus and the world is yours again.

Pam Barr, Contributor

Editor’s Note: Apoteker is an artisanal company based in Harlem

Thanks to Twisted Lily the exclusive US perfumerie, we have a draw of three The Peradam   for a registered CaFleureBon reader in the US. To be eligible please leave a comment with what times in your life you need your own space, if scent comforts you and about Pam’s review. Draw closes 6/26/2015

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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13 comments

  • What a beautiful review!! I really enjoyed reading it. I basically always wear fragrance for comfort! I love orris butter and the smell of rain on city streets. . .I feel comforted just reading about The Peradam. I’ll get my nose on this scent asap – I am most intrigued by all the Apoteker fragrances. Cheers!

  • Scents are extremely comforting to me. I use them daily and at night to help me sleep. This is an awesome review, the smell of wet pavement is very therapeutic.
    I live in the U.S. Thanks much for the draw!

  • MikasMinion says:

    I love every one of the Apoteker Tepe fragrances that I have tried and The Paradam is no exception. For me it is a blast of jasmine with an orris background but it certainly is fleeting. As someone who usually dislikes jasmine I’m surprised to say that I would happily bathe in a vat of this perfume.

  • madeleine gallay says:

    A room of her own … always, anywhere. White sheets and fluffy towels, white jasmine and lilies, a Sarah Moon photo … the absolute grey of wet pavement. Fragrance and memories and comfort.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I think i need my own space almost every day because this is when I do my best reflection and thinking…scents always comfort me whether good times or bad times..for me fragrances are stress therapy, too…One of the things i like in this review is that Apoteker Tepe does not scream but instead goes the other way. it says things but quietly…thanks for the draw. I am in the US

  • I need my own space right now! My 1 year old demands constant attention from me, I can’t even go to the bathroom in peace. I do find comfort in scent, but usually not perfume. Usually day to day scents, particularly that of rice cooking or my mom’s soups do the trick. I love the idea that this perfume isn’t in your face, but let’s you be while coexisting. I’d love to try this! Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • Elizabeth T says:

    I need my own space at the end of the day, when I’m winding down from all the activity. Scent comforts me throughout the day, and even at the end of the day it helps me relax. This review is beautiful… I am a lover of the wet concrete smell after a rain, too! I’m love to try this. Thank you for the draw! USA.

  • Yes, scents comfort me and not just perfume. Certain foods cooking do especially. Whatever this exactly means, “A fragrance that is when you are not lonely but alone”, it has me wanting to try some. I need that space in the mornings. 🙂 USA.

  • I am somehow an introvert person, so I need at least couple of days in a month alone with myself. Kinda meditative moments to attend my deep dark parts of me. This touching and intriguing review really makes me want to test this fragrance. Never tried Apoteker fragrances and this one goes to my must-try list.

  • This review totally tapped into my introverted side. Mommy def needs a solitary scent. I loved the description of the Paradam stone, as well. Never know what you’ll learn in a great review 😉 I’m in the USA.

  • pursejunkie says:

    Very curious to find out for myself what the author means by dry and damp. I love dry scents, but also the smell of rain on concrete. I’m drawn to the imagery: being alone in a rainy city is my idea of a really good day. (U.S.)

  • This sounds too intriguing, wet and damp? This would really be a lesson for me. Another side to the Art. I must say the smell of freshly roasted coffee beans comforts me. I do have my dark days and this scent especially comforts me. Thank you for the review. I have never tried Apoteke fragrances and I am a registered US reader.

  • I like being by myself and usually try to carve out an hour a day. It’s easier now that the kids are grown. Scent can definitely comfort me (although it’s usually the scent of food). The smell of the desert after a summer monsoon is my touchstone.