Bertrand Duchaufour and Ann Gérard

In 2012, Ann Gérard launched a collection of three perfumes, consisting of Cuir de Nacre, Ciel d’Opale, and Perle de Mousse, all by Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. They were received well by the perfume community, and now everyone has been a-buzz with talk of her latest release, also by M. Duchaufour, Rose Cut. This was one of the perfumes I was able to sniff and talk about with M. Duchaufour at Esxence. One of the things I noticed first about Rose Cut on paper was that it was a very balsamic rose, which M. Duchaufour agreed with. His task was to create a “wildly feminine, alluring and potent”* rose fragrance, and he has done so, as I am finding out now that I am trying it on skin.

Photo by Tama Blough

Opening with boozy, peppery notes made bright by aldehydes, the rose at the heart plays peek-a-boo for a while. I used to do floral arrangements for a company I worked for, and I remember the smell of the stems of roses, especially when I could get garden roses, as I stripped the excess leaves and snapped the thorns. There was a peppery quality to the greenery, which would mix with the aromas of the flowers themselves. Rose Cut brings that to life, and then accents it with deep, sensuous notes of patchouli, benzoin, and vanilla.

Photographer unknown

I cannot call this a rose soliflore by any stretch; it is too complex, too mingled with sensuousness. This is the trail of petals leading to the boudoir, scented candles leading the way to a tryst by the fire. I also can’t really say it is a dark rose in the sense that it doesn’t conjure the black gothic roses that come to mind in that genre. M. Duchaufour said he wanted to create a unique rose fragrance. This is definitely unique; I have smelled a lot of rose fragrances lately, and this is hard to categorize. My initial impression of a balsamic rose never played out fully on skin. Although I got a few hints of the wine diamonds left behind in a cask, it never turned sour or too winey. It isn’t dewy, or fresh, just a good, satisfying fragrance. I also don’t find it so feminine that a man couldn’t wear it easily. The drydown is nicely spicy, and a teensy bit sweet. This perfume is a worthy addition to the Ann Gerard collection.

Notes: Aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, roses, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oak wood absolute, benzoin absolute

I received my review sample from Ann Gérard Parfum. Rose Cut is available at Lucky Scent in the US, and wherever Ann Gerard Parfum is sold.

-Tama Blough, Managing Editor

Courtesy of Lucky Scent, we have two samples to give awayto two readers in the US. Leave a comment letting us know what appeals to you about this fragrance and where you live. Draw ends April 25.2014.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

*per Ann Gerard press materials