Every time I receive new perfumes from perfumer Amber Jobin of Aether Arts, I think to myself, “This woman is a rising star of perfumery.” Her work is consistently well-composed, unique, and often has the ability to transport the wearer to another time and place. Her new collection, consisting of Electrum, Nude Moderne, and Ginger Rose is no different.
We Two by Michael Seif
Nude Moderne was designed to be a very close, long-lasting, sensual skin scent, only to be smelled by yourself and those who get physically close. Consisting mainly of musks with a touch of labdanum and more ethereal ingredients, the perfume delivers exactly as advertised. It sits very close to the skin, with occasional wafting (but not much). I can smell it, though, dabbed on my pulse points and cleavage, and I wish I had someone handy to snuffle me. I think it would be a pretty delighted snuffle. I get a sense of ritual, too. Before I applied, I had burned some Palo Santo wood in the house, and the lingering scent of the smoke on my hand mingled with the musks to create a new dimension. I think this perfume would be the thing to wear when you are going to be closely connected with someone, sexually, spiritually, or just lovingly. It lasted through a shower, and became softer and sweeter. Very nice.
Notes: musk accord, sweet nothings, labdanum, understated confidence
Detail of antique chintz fabric at the Victoria & Albert Museum
I was excited to smell Ginger Rose, because I love ginger notes, and it didn’t disappoint. This perfume takes inspiration for perfumes of the past, and it does have a vintage atmosphere whilst still being quite modern. The retro feel comes from powdery aldehydes that give the spicy ginger a more rounded feel. As the rose notes emerge, I was taken by the real loveliness of this perfume. What a great dichotomy Ms. Jobin has created: she has managed to make a perfume that draws me back into a time of tea sipped from fine, rose-emblazoned china, sitting in a sun-filled room covered in chintz, and then snaps me back into a spice-laden modernity. The fragrance settles down into a soft rose scent that is quite winsome. I will definitely be wearing this one again.
Notes: aldehydes, pink peppercorn, bergamot, ginger, Bulgarian rose absolute, white rose accord, jasmine absolute, ylang ylang, heliotrope, carnation, tonka bean, benzoin, amber, orris, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood, honey beeswax, indoles
"Amber Prison" by Donato for Magic,The Gathering
Electrum, the classical word for amber, is an amber-based fragrance that is warm and beautiful, with an interesting cooling effect brought by gentle fir notes. Ms. Jobin has taken a fairly common perfume category and stepped up the game. This is not just amber, but the sap from which the eons-old, time-hardened stone is created. She wanted the fragrance to reflect both the silvery needles and golden resins of ancient conifers, and she has done it. Many amber scents are just cozy comfort scents, but Electrum has an interesting edge to it that makes it not just rich and honeyed, but brings it all closer to the earth. There is a vibration to it that is hard to explain, but quite visceral, as well as a very lovely way to smell.
Notes: balsam fir needle, rosewood, multiple amber resins, guaiacwood, cedar, vanilla, tolu balsam, tobacco, Africa stone
I enjoy receiving new fragrances from a perfumer and having each scent be decidedly different from the other. Ms. Jobin obviously curates her collection so that there is something for everyone, and each perfume stands on its own as a unique personality and work of art.
I received my samples from Ms. Jobin at Aether Arts. All the perfumes are available in the Aether Arts Etsy store.
Tama Blough, Deputy Editor
Thanks to Amber Jobin and Aether Arts, we have a sample set to give to any reader worldwide, and a full 5.5 ml bottle of choice OR sample set to any US reader. To qualify, please “like” the Aether Arts Facebook page, let us know which appeals to you or which you choose, and where you live. Draw ends February 23, 2014.
Editor's Note: We first met Amber when she was working as Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's apprentice and helped Dawn on one of my favorite DSH Perfumes Mirabelle. Amber's CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery from June 2013 is here You can read our review of John Frum, a Top 25 perfume for 2013 here. For our reviews of Inuus, Aether Argent and A Roll in the Grass please click here– Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
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